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Good Tyres And Tubes For Honda Wave


petercallen

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Sorry big guy, but the topic is about avoiding the problem of air pressure loss in Thailand, and the point I made was that it's unavoidable as long as tube tires with spoke rims are used. Tubeless with mags was not only a solution, but it was spot on mate; and the 4,000 baht was for the rims and tires. Laugh, well it's sad to...

What? hear that noise its me laughing but not at you at the tv

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Very true indeed, but I dont think 600 for a tyre from Suzuki is over priced or are you saying I could have got this same tyre at a fraction of the cost else where.

Stock manufacturer stuff is always done to a cost basis rather than a quality basis IMO. Always seems to me that you get better quality for the same price aftermarket. Its not the price that bothers me more that they are the budget items that most main dealers will install.

Its a scooter tyre.. Its not going to make it a knee dragger.. But there is an appreciable difference to putting larger tyres IMO.

Look at the much raved about and now 75k baht PCX, 50% of the reason it rides better is the wide tyres.

That is not true...how can , say for example a 2in tyre ride better than a 4 in tyre if both have the same airpressure say 40 psi...differing airpressures will give different feeling of ride comfort, but 40 psi is40 psi !!

Also a larger ''contact patch'' will infact pick up more of the rough road surfgace and transmit that to the rider....simple physics..:D

Also if you put a larger tyre than the rim is disigned for you can end up with less contact patch because the tyre is ''squeezed ''onto the rim pushing up to more of a peak thus less surfacepatch..ThePCX natuarally has wider rims to take the wider tyres and ismore about weight loading and no much at all about better ride....getting a better ride is 100% where the shockers and spring tension do their job..Yes?:) Andfor nearly all of the riders use of a mini bike[ you excepted] asa pure means of conveyance stock tyres and shocks etc do a very able job!!

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Stock manufacturer stuff is always done to a cost basis rather than a quality basis IMO. Always seems to me that you get better quality for the same price aftermarket. Its not the price that bothers me more that they are the budget items that most main dealers will install.

Its a scooter tyre.. Its not going to make it a knee dragger.. But there is an appreciable difference to putting larger tyres IMO.

Look at the much raved about and now 75k baht PCX, 50% of the reason it rides better is the wide tyres.

It seems more like 80% of the reason for it's softer ride is because of the overall width of the bike with the extra wide seat. I think they also weigh a bit more to give it a hog cruiser type ride.

Increased rake and trail.. softer suspension tweaked with more laden weight.. I agree many many reasons, not simply tyres.

But if you just get a stock scoot, especially one with 17 inch rims like the Kwaker 130, the yammie sparks, or the waves.. And put on large width tyres they do give a much smoother ride and they seem to have more grip (larger contact patch, better rubber) all round.

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What do you mean no flats any more? tubeless tyres still get punctures, or are you saying you are still able to drive safetly at a reduced speed if you get a flat in a tubeless tyre..

have 3 yammy elegance with tubeless on mags, no punctures at all since April 2008 :)

all my other scoots puncture on occasions including an elegance on spokes/tubes

phuketscoots elegance is september 2008, tubeless on mags and +150 kg load minimum. not one puncture in +2 years and 20k km, right phuketscooter?

tybeless tyres are much stronger, and tubeless dont have the friction from tube, reducing heat

in addition its safety. tubed tyres explode or run flat very quickly. tubeless slowly

no more verubber tubed ;)

anyone been able to find high quality tubeless for PCX?

A tubeless tyre suffering penetration by nail or sharp object will deflate exactly the same as a tubed tyre..howcan it not?? You have simply been lucky not to have had a puncture in your tubeless tyre...no rocket science here..Now slowleaks as per OP yes the mag wheel is a better option here.

In fact what you have said here is the total opposite and for EG you hit a major pot hole and ding the rim, the tubeless tyre will immediately deflate, whereasa tubed will contain the air...

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Thanks, It could be the wheels, i have put new tubes in both wheels several times,

And a new tyre and tube once, but still have the same problem of slow leaks.

But there again it could be the cheap tubes they use 100 baht fitted.

try the soapy water test....over inflate the tire a bit then spray with soapy water and look for the bubbles this will find any air leaks, sounds like you got rim issues mate...

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Increased rake and trail.. softer suspension tweaked with more laden weight.. I agree many many reasons, not simply tyres.

But if you just get a stock scoot, especially one with 17 inch rims like the Kwaker 130, the yammie sparks, or the waves.. And put on large width tyres they do give a much smoother ride and they seem to have more grip (larger contact patch, better rubber) all round.

As i just said it is impossible for wider tyres to give a smoother ride. and explained why, but you asusual will not acceopt info from others who do know better....and now more meandering from you..now they only SEEM to have more grip your simple physics is gone way out the door huh. Another very important thing with any tyre on wet rtoads is aquplanning and havinfg the larger contact patch increases your chances of aquaplanning by the same % as the % of tyresize increase m,ore simple physics for you.If you watched the 2nd last rainy moto GP Edwardswas in fact lamenting the fact that the big bikes with bigger tyures had this effect...and we are talking the best tyres money can buy. Sameapplies to an earlier query from a guy about wider tyreson gravel...big disadvantage again..bigger tyre, bigger contact surfavce on rolling stones..more problems created...not talking knobblies here ..road tyres as t his is all about.

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A tubeless tyre suffering penetration by nail or sharp object will deflate exactly the same as a tubed tyre..howcan it not?? You have simply been lucky not to have had a puncture in your tubeless tyre...no rocket science here..Now slowleaks as per OP yes the mag wheel is a better option here.

In fact what you have said here is the total opposite and for EG you hit a major pot hole and ding the rim, the tubeless tyre will immediately deflate, whereasa tubed will contain the air...

i am gonna suggest something I never do myself, try Google it.

A tubeless tyre loses air slowly when puncture, a tubed often explode

for off road bike use, spoked rims are often used, since a steelrim is softer and thus dont crack as an aluminum rim. tubes needed

but my offroad trucks have all had alu rims and tubeless past 3 decades, never cracked a rim.

never cracked a rim on my bikes either, have you? hit many potholes though, one made my Givi box crack in 3 parts and fall off

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Increased rake and trail.. softer suspension tweaked with more laden weight.. I agree many many reasons, not simply tyres.

But if you just get a stock scoot, especially one with 17 inch rims like the Kwaker 130, the yammie sparks, or the waves.. And put on large width tyres they do give a much smoother ride and they seem to have more grip (larger contact patch, better rubber) all round.

As i just said it is impossible for wider tyres to give a smoother ride. and explained why, but you asusual will not acceopt info from others who do know better....and now more meandering from you..now they only SEEM to have more grip your simple physics is gone way out the door huh. Another very important thing with any tyre on wet rtoads is aquplanning and havinfg the larger contact patch increases your chances of aquaplanning by the same % as the % of tyresize increase m,ore simple physics for you.If you watched the 2nd last rainy moto GP Edwardswas in fact lamenting the fact that the big bikes with bigger tyures had this effect...and we are talking the best tyres money can buy. Sameapplies to an earlier query from a guy about wider tyreson gravel...big disadvantage again..bigger tyre, bigger contact surfavce on rolling stones..more problems created...not talking knobblies here ..road tyres as t his is all about.

a wider tyre in same profile (%height), will of course be more comfy as roads surface distance to rim increases.

a wider tyre than the stock crap veerubber is probably(drop the probably, all tyres are better than stock veerubber) of better quality both designwise, rubberwise and production quality. better traction in wet and dry

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back to OP, if a non leaking tube is installed, the usual cause of rapid damage to tube is

non-smooth surface of tyres inside or foreign object remains in tyre. doesnt take much, only sand

or lacking/misplaced plastic protection between rim and tube

or moving spokes

or tube wrong size, friction providing to much heat between tyre/tube

please remind me, never by a bike with spoked rims again, and check if the mags can use tubeless tyres/valve

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.

KBB said this... [ sorry Kenny for a long post ,but somepeople need a heap of info just to see the point..lol]

a wider tyre in same profile (%height), will of course be more comfy as roads surface distance to rim increases.

a wider tyre than the stock crap veerubber is probably(drop the probably, all tyres are better than stock veerubber) of better quality both designwise, rubberwise and production quality. better traction in wet and dry

First...what you said above highlighted is a common misconception ,not just yours so i will explain ie; take for eg a honda wave OK with you on board and as i've seen you and estimate your weight to be in the mid to high 90 kilos range so a combined weight of near 200 kilos..give or take...Yes? Now you sit on this bike with factory fitted tyres , maybe they are Shinko size 2.5 with 30psi and these tyres will compress onto the road ...In other words , some degree of ''softness'' Yes? OK now get the tyres changed to Shinko 2.75 or 3.0 [ in your words a wider tyre in same profile (%height), ] AKA ''ASPECT RATIO''.. also at 30psi and you again sit on the bike...The amount these larger tyres will compress HAS to be exactly the same as the originals [irrespective of increase in distance from road surface to rim,even if it was a full half inch, which it is infact probably not near that much] by virtue of the fact that both sizes of tyres have been inflated to the same pressure [hardness]..... 30 psi is as i said originally, 30 psi, regardless of the size of the tyre...maybe you are confusing pressure with volume? If hyperthetically ,you had put ,say 1 cu ft of air in original tyre and then put also 1cu ft of air in a larger tyre ,then yes the larger tyre then will as you say be more comfy....Yes?? Also another fact that you are overlooking here is that a larger tyre may well have thicker walls and thereby make them more ridgid than the smaller tyre!! Talking about higher quality tyres,yes, of course, you are going to get a whole range of benefits and myself have always bought the best tyres available...crazy if you dont put them on a high power bike IMO, but thats another story.....I was a riding instructor and B grade racer for years and the one thing i always have stressed to people as the No.1 priority regarding tyres is to constantly check and maintain the optimum air pressure [at least weekly for average ] for whatever size bike with whatever quality tyres you use. Correct tyre pressure alone has undeniably the most influence on what happens in keeping that tiny contact patch on the road all things being equal.... Tyre brands,compounds,sizes, tubed or tubeless,etc, etc are all up to the individuals riding style, bikes intended use,and personal choices......PS last time i saw you a few months ago you looked like you could do with some riding instruction...Hope you haven't put ''larger tyres''on a bitch bike. :D

Edited by fatcatkamala
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KBB said this... [ sorry Kenny for a long post ,but somepeople need a heap of info just to see the point..lol]

a wider tyre in same profile (%height), will of course be more comfy as roads surface distance to rim increases.

a wider tyre than the stock crap veerubber is probably(drop the probably, all tyres are better than stock veerubber) of better quality both designwise, rubberwise and production quality. better traction in wet and dry

First...what you said above highlighted is a common misconception ,not just yours so i will explain ie; take for eg a honda wave OK with you on board and as i've seen you and estimate your weight to be in the mid to high 90 kilos range so a combined weight of near 200 kilos..give or take...Yes? Now you sit on this bike with factory fitted tyres , maybe they are Shinko size 2.5 with 30psi and these tyres will compress onto the road ...In other words , some degree of ''softness'' Yes? OK now get the tyres changed to Shinko 2.75 or 3.0 [ in your words a wider tyre in same profile (%height), ] AKA ''ASPECT RATIO''.. also at 30psi and you again sit on the bike...The amount these larger tyres will compress HAS to be exactly the same as the originals [irrespective of increase in distance from road surface to rim,even if it was a full half inch, which it is infact probably not near that much] by virtue of the fact that both sizes of tyres have been inflated to the same pressure [hardness]..... 30 psi is as i said originally, 30 psi, regardless of the size of the tyre...maybe you are confusing pressure with volume? If hyperthetically ,you had put ,say 1 cu ft of air in original tyre and then put also 1cu ft of air in a larger tyre ,then yes the larger tyre then will as you say be more comfy....Yes?? Also another fact that you are overlooking here is that a larger tyre may well have thicker walls and thereby make them more ridgid than the smaller tyre!! Talking about higher quality tyres,yes, of course, you are going to get a whole range of benefits and myself have always bought the best tyres available...crazy if you dont put them on a high power bike IMO, but thats another story.....I was a riding instructor and B grade racer for years and the one thing i always have stressed to people as the No.1 priority regarding tyres is to constantly check and maintain the optimum air pressure [at least weekly for average ] for whatever size bike with whatever quality tyres you use. Correct tyre pressure alone has undeniably the most influence on what happens in keeping that tiny contact patch on the road all things being equal.... Tyre brands,compounds,sizes, tubed or tubeless,etc, etc are all up to the individuals riding style, bikes intended use,and personal choices......PS last time i saw you a few months ago you looked like you could do with some riding instruction...Hope you haven't put ''larger tyres''on a bitch bike. :D

I'm mechanicaly retarded so I have no idea, but my money's on what that bloke just said :D

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Increased rake and trail.. softer suspension tweaked with more laden weight.. I agree many many reasons, not simply tyres.

But if you just get a stock scoot, especially one with 17 inch rims like the Kwaker 130, the yammie sparks, or the waves.. And put on large width tyres they do give a much smoother ride and they seem to have more grip (larger contact patch, better rubber) all round.

As i just said it is impossible for wider tyres to give a smoother ride. and explained why, but you asusual will not acceopt info from others who do know better....and now more meandering from you..now they only SEEM to have more grip your simple physics is gone way out the door huh. Another very important thing with any tyre on wet rtoads is aquplanning and havinfg the larger contact patch increases your chances of aquaplanning by the same % as the % of tyresize increase m,ore simple physics for you.If you watched the 2nd last rainy moto GP Edwardswas in fact lamenting the fact that the big bikes with bigger tyures had this effect...and we are talking the best tyres money can buy. Sameapplies to an earlier query from a guy about wider tyreson gravel...big disadvantage again..bigger tyre, bigger contact surfavce on rolling stones..more problems created...not talking knobblies here ..road tyres as t his is all about.

No it isnt..

Ride a racing pushbike.. With 2cm tyres.. Feel how hard that ride is..

Now fit the exact same bike with mountain bike (smooth / road) balloon tryes.. Feel how the ride just got so much smoother ??

Exact same thing.

Good grip patterns and lots of tread assist against aquaplaning.. And if your hitting standing water at speed you better be ready anyway.

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a wider tyre in same profile (%height), will of course be more comfy as roads surface distance to rim increases.

a wider tyre than the stock crap veerubber is probably(drop the probably, all tyres are better than stock veerubber) of better quality both designwise, rubberwise and production quality. better traction in wet and dry

thank you.. BTB seems intent on maintaining a point that is just clearly not reality.. But its the argument he wants not the actual reality.

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Good grip patterns and lots of tread assist against aquaplaning.. And if your hitting standing water at speed you better be ready anyway.
Aquaplanning is about pressure exerted on the road. The pressure is determined by the surface and weight. The bigger the weight for the same surface, the smaller the risk of aquaplanning. On the same token, decrease the surface for the same weight and the risk gets less. So the bike (bicycle or motorbike does not make any difference) with the wider tyres has the bigger risk of aquaplanning.
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a wider tyre in same profile (%height), will of course be more comfy as roads surface distance to rim increases.

a wider tyre than the stock crap veerubber is probably(drop the probably, all tyres are better than stock veerubber) of better quality both designwise, rubberwise and production quality. better traction in wet and dry

thank you.. BTB seems intent on maintaining a point that is just clearly not reality.. But its the argument he wants not the actual reality.

By 'BTB' do you mean me??

I think you will find I have had no part in this argument. I just admitted that I'm not mechanicaly minded, so unlike you, I don't claim to know everything about everything. I'm happy to admit there's a lot I know nothing about, try it sometime.

I did however make a light hearted comment that 'FCK' seem to know exactly what he was talking about, and as a gambling man I would bet he was more right than you.

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Good grip patterns and lots of tread assist against aquaplaning.. And if your hitting standing water at speed you better be ready anyway.
Aquaplanning is about pressure exerted on the road. The pressure is determined by the surface and weight. The bigger the weight for the same surface, the smaller the risk of aquaplanning. On the same token, decrease the surface for the same weight and the risk gets less. So the bike (bicycle or motorbike does not make any difference) with the wider tyres has the bigger risk of aquaplanning.

Yes it does.. But even a thin tyre, that has worn tread, has no 'escape route' for water 'trapped' under a tyre.. A good tyre, with larger drain channels, to evacuate water, has a better chance of not aquaplaning also..

I am sure you would notice in a car, if you have old or not so good tyres on it, it aquaplanes easily.. If you have a good brand of tyre, with a good 'clearing pattern' it requires either more water or higher speeds etc to have the same aquaplane effect.

Everyone has different perceptions on driving, I am one of those people that pays a lot of attention to the feedback, I like all my tyres balanced regularly or dynobeaded, tracking done so its balanced, and tend to notice very small changes in my bikes and cars.. Another mate of mine was driving with his brake pads grinding and seemed oblivious !!

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As i just said it is impossible for wider tyres to give a smoother ride. and explained why, but you asusual will not acceopt info from others who do know better....and now more meandering from you..now they only SEEM to have more grip your simple physics is gone way out the door huh. Another very important thing with any tyre on wet rtoads is aquplanning and havinfg the larger contact patch increases your chances of aquaplanning by the same % as the % of tyresize increase m,ore simple physics for you.If you watched the 2nd last rainy moto GP Edwardswas in fact lamenting the fact that the big bikes with bigger tyures had this effect...and we are talking the best tyres money can buy. Sameapplies to an earlier query from a guy about wider tyreson gravel...big disadvantage again..bigger tyre, bigger contact surfavce on rolling stones..more problems created...not talking knobblies here ..road tyres as t his is all about.

No it isnt..

Ride a racing pushbike.. With 2cm tyres.. Feel how hard that ride is..

Now fit the exact same bike with mountain bike (smooth / road) balloon tryes.. Feel how the ride just got so much smoother ??

Exact same thing.

Good grip patterns and lots of tread assist against aquaplaning.. And if your hitting standing water at speed you better be ready anyway.

Regarding this;From you today..

No it isnt..

Ride a racing pushbike.. With 2cm tyres.. Feel how hard that ride is..

Now fit the exact same bike with mountain bike (smooth / road) balloon tryes.. Feel how the ride just got so much smoother ??

Exact same thing.

Good grip patterns and lots of tread assist against aquaplaning.. And if your hitting standing water at speed you better be ready anyway.

Obviously in your rush to post your huge quotas for the day Vern , you never read previous posts,as, if you had in my reply to KBB where the proof of the real facts are, you would have seen that, as in the original post where you created this nonsense that we are talking about the same size wheels, but with a larger tyre fitted..Yes??Explain to me how a skinny racebike wheel is anywhere near the same size as a mountainbike wheel... Probably twice the width at the rim!!As usual you have twisted the fact to accomodate your thoughts..Yes?

While im paying here i may as well point out another totally incorrect statement from you..You said that rake and trail make for a softer ride on a cruiser type M/C..again absolutely wrong...rake is set to give optimum stability to the particular bikes purpose and trail is more about ''quickness of steering'' also to the particular bikes purpose...nothing at all to do with ride softness..Yes?

Then you say this ;

Everyone has different perceptions on driving, I am one of those people that pays a lot of attention to the feedback, I like all my tyres balanced regularly or dynobeaded, tracking done so its balanced, and tend to notice very small changes in my bikes and cars..

ANd then against all best advice ..re tire pressure being the NO1 benefit, you say this ;

I probably need to add air once a month, sometimes longer, dont think about it too much.. Certainly not weekly.[ [probably why you have never ridden seriously huh..all show and no go is the expression..like the thai boyswith the skinny tyres...soi racers and poseures..

Another example to clarify..:sleepy: yes good tread patterns do clear the water to help prevent aquaplaning [ no such beast as good grip patterns]... compounds are what determine grip!! Yes? Also your original reply to fiddlewoods query about ''larger tyres ''preventing aquaplaning you said ..''Of course it does, larger contact patch, better grip..'' Again Wrong !!! thank you stevenl, you can see it ......as the larger the contact patch, the more likely to aquaplane [as i said that Colin Edwards lamented on in the rainy GP qualifier] And they use the best of the best , but you probably can twist this to another meaning..There are so many things i could correct you on but its like they say..[theres none as blind as they who refuse to see'' and i really have much better things to do mate. 10 mins on here to and froing with people who have all day and every day to ''be creative in twisting words of other posters'' is 10 mins wasted ..I am sure that people who want to understand the facts will do so, as for you...you will just keep on with your little game of stirring people ...up to you mate....

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No it isnt..

Ride a racing pushbike.. With 2cm tyres.. Feel how hard that ride is..

Now fit the exact same bike with mountain bike (smooth / road) balloon tryes.. Feel how the ride just got so much smoother ??

Exact same thing.

Good grip patterns and lots of tread assist against aquaplaning.. And if your hitting standing water at speed you better be ready anyway.

Road bike tyres run on 100+psi put a mountain bike tyre on and you can only get that up about 40-50 psi

so that why is feels softer no as much pressure

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Road bike tyres run on 100+psi put a mountain bike tyre on and you can only get that up about 40-50 psi

so that why is feels softer no as much pressure

And why does it need to be a 100 PSI ?? Because its so thin !!

Same thing said the other way.

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And why does it need to be a 100 PSI ?? Because its so thin !!

Same thing said the other way.

Because Rolling resistance is affected by friction caused by the weight of the vehicle (bike and rider) and how much of that weight has to be absorbed by the tires while riding. Rolling resistance is affected by vehicle weight, tire tread, casing, psi, the texture of the surface, and the vertical compliance of the components and frame. If you are currently riding equipment that has a high level of rolling resistance and you average 20 mph over 100 miles, you can cut 3-4 minutes off your time by minimizing your rolling resistance. If you average 15 mph, you can cut 4 to 5 minutes off.

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I hadn't bothered to read this thread because I had no interest in the subject. However, I see it is staying near the top of the list and has passed the 50 replies mark, so I had a look.

Illegal activities, posts removed! Is there no subject that doesn't turn into a factional brawl in this sub-forum? :o

I noticed the CM forum mob are having a sponsored xmas party soon and all seem happy and friendly there, making such a show very feasable.

The last get together in Phuket was several years ago, and the efforts of a couple of members to organise one last year fell into disarray because of disagreement by people on virtually every aspect of the party.

One member tried to get a semi-regular social outing for couples going a few weeks back and was attacked on all sides by some of the ratbags on this forum. What's wrong with you people?

I guess the chance of Thaivisa sponsoring another function here is close to nil. If it did get off the ground it may be necessary to come armed with guns, tasers, pepper spray, dogs and paring knives! :ph34r:

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I hadn't bothered to read this thread because I had no interest in the subject. However, I see it is staying near the top of the list and has passed the 50 replies mark, so I had a look.

Illegal activities, posts removed! Is there no subject that doesn't turn into a factional brawl in this sub-forum? :o

I noticed the CM forum mob are having a sponsored xmas party soon and all seem happy and friendly there, making such a show very feasable.

The last get together in Phuket was several years ago, and the efforts of a couple of members to organise one last year fell into disarray because of disagreement by people on virtually every aspect of the party.

One member tried to get a semi-regular social outing for couples going a few weeks back and was attacked on all sides by some of the ratbags on this forum. What's wrong with you people?

I guess the chance of Thaivisa sponsoring another function here is close to nil. If it did get off the ground it may be necessary to come armed with guns, tasers, pepper spray, dogs and paring knives! :ph34r:

:D This forum is too big for it's own good. It has so many members, with so many different types of people taking part. What with the mix of long termers, short termers, holiday makers, old boys, youngsters, the I've been here longer than you crew, and of course, a huge amount of posters who don't even live or visit Phuket, but get some wierd, perverse pleasure (I believe derives from jelousy) in slagging the place off.

I would guess the CM forum has a lot less traffic going through it, and I would think they are a much smaller, more simmilar aged group of ex-pats and therefor find it easier to get on. (We'll ask LivinLOS, he's moving there soon apparently)

Anyway. I don't think this forum should be about making friends particularly, that's what Lonely Hearts is for, people should get out in the real world and make friends.

Everybody from this forum in a room together, all juiced up, :o Not for me thanks.

Anyway about these tyres.....

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Road bike tyres run on 100+psi put a mountain bike tyre on and you can only get that up about 40-50 psi

so that why is feels softer no as much pressure

And why does it need to be a 100 PSI ?? Because its so thin !!

Same thing said the other way.

Really having trouble deciding if you are just deliberately winding things up or if you really do not understand what you are saying...

A lack of acceptance of facts is a sad reflection on a person .There is no logic or rationale to your replies. :blink: I fear your addiction to forums may be taking its toll on you....

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I hadn't bothered to read this thread because I had no interest in the subject. However, I see it is staying near the top of the list and has passed the 50 replies mark, so I had a look.

Illegal activities, posts removed! Is there no subject that doesn't turn into a factional brawl in this sub-forum? :o

I noticed the CM forum mob are having a sponsored xmas party soon and all seem happy and friendly there, making such a show very feasable.

The last get together in Phuket was several years ago, and the efforts of a couple of members to organise one last year fell into disarray because of disagreement by people on virtually every aspect of the party.

One member tried to get a semi-regular social outing for couples going a few weeks back and was attacked on all sides by some of the ratbags on this forum. What's wrong with you people?

I guess the chance of Thaivisa sponsoring another function here is close to nil. If it did get off the ground it may be necessary to come armed with guns, tasers, pepper spray, dogs and paring knives! :ph34r:

:D This forum is too big for it's own good. It has so many members, with so many different types of people taking part. What with the mix of long termers, short termers, holiday makers, old boys, youngsters, the I've been here longer than you crew, and of course, a huge amount of posters who don't even live or visit Phuket, but get some wierd, perverse pleasure (I believe derives from jelousy) in slagging the place off.

I would guess the CM forum has a lot less traffic going through it, and I would think they are a much smaller, more simmilar aged group of ex-pats and therefor find it easier to get on. (We'll ask LivinLOS, he's moving there soon apparently)

Anyway. I don't think this forum should be about making friends particularly, that's what Lonely Hearts is for, people should get out in the real world and make friends.

Everybody from this forum in a room together, all juiced up, :o Not for me thanks.

Anyway about these tyres.....

Yes , about those tyres...

As so many people here do indeed ride scooters[ waves, clicks etc] and may be mislead by the multitude of bullsh-t being posted by two particular contributers , i as a career motorcyclist feel that i have the knowledge and experience to factually point out the bullsh-t and have made an effort to do so, mainly for the safety aspects of it all. Riding any bike on Thai........any roads is a challenge in itself, so ensureing that your own bike is up to scratch is a vital step and as i said tyre pressures are the NO1 priority everything else being equal , and tho inconvenient ,the one good thing about having slow leaking tubes is that you do ckeck the pressures more often... Everything i have said is factual ,gleened from 46 years of motorcycling and near 850,000 ks of riding under my belt.From a proficiant junior trials bike rider[ the best learning experiece for anyone IMO as controlled slow riding is the key foundation to developing further riding proficiancy] Also b grade racer,basic rider instruction and high speed instruction, drag bikes,bike/tyre shop owner and near ever facet in between, including hours and hours of free tuition to juniors/beginners so i believe i can present the facts and not just hearsay or cut and paste or as the other guy said ''google it'' .Joking ..right? Heaps of stuff you google is often just the same crap from the same crap talkers !Yes?...I will welcome any intelligent debate on all aspects of M/cycling but i'm not going to continue banging my head on the wall in this absurd to and froing with the legendary highposter guy..A total time waste IMO..poor guy who has ''everything '' if you believe half his yarns..but is bored sh-tless obviously. Would not be easy to find a thread that he has not added his ''two bobs worth'' to..Follow his trend..first he manipulates a thread to suit his agenda, then you point this out and he gives a condescending smartass reply, then if you persist with his game he goes off on a different direction, then when you finally have obviously proven him wrong..he doesn't ever have the decency to admit wrong, but finds another post to play his game with....meanwhile totaly destroying a good thread...

He constantly posts nonfacts as factual on the theory of ''bullsh-t baffles brains!!'' You can paint this guy a picture and he will still twist and turn the presented facts to make himself look knowledgable and never, ever accept that he is wrong. Will either post some condescending smartass reply or go off on another tangent..or when he's finally beat, just ignore you!! On another forum he has this quote..''a closed mouth gathers no feet'' and i wish he would heed this himself as he is often caught ''foot in mouth''

The only reason i responded to pcallens OP for info regarding slow leaking tyres and wanting ''good quality tyres'' was because of this reply...: I get extra wide road tyres for my scoot there which improve the bike enormously. Tho that does come at a penalty for acceleration and gyroscopic resistance (added rotating weight, simple physics)...heres the manipulating the OP as i said ''bullshit baffles brains and obviously a cut and paste!!''

When i commented that 99% of riders of scooters would have no idea about this ..he comes back with this gem;Well if you dont understand the simple physics of why spinning more weight takes more work and the gyroscopic effect of resisting turning of a spinning wheel (didnt you sit in a office chair with a spinning wheel in high school ??) then just skip over the bits that you 'dont have a clue' about' ...... and heres the '' condescending remarks...

He can do and say and pass as fact many of his posts on electronics and gadgets ...i honestly dont know about or care about this stuff, tho there are a few people who do so its up to them to decide if hes talking crap or cut and pasting to big note himself....

PS as a side note to this, another already destroyed thread, i agree with you 100% oldcroc about this forum and you will notice thats its always the same 'self interests' group who do the destroying..and would not have the gonads to turn up at a social event, because they would be out of their precious secretive safety zone...you know, the one where the threats and keyboard warrior stuff can be made without fear of facing the consequences...

PPS to petercallen..no doubt you're shaking your head in disbelief at the mess that your simple post has again turned to..but did you solve the original problem ? As in a better quality tube or did you have to indulge in ''simple physics''... :D

Edited by fatcatkamala
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How do I figure out the optimal tire pressure (or at least reasonable), for a Honda Click with 17inch IRC EAGLE 60/90 max 36 psi?

The manufacture stock tire pressure (for 14 inch tires) is around 25 psi front and 29 psi back (36 psi back with passenger)

Is 25 front 29 back fine when switching from 14 inch to 17 inch tires? Or should I go with 28 front 32 back which is a common setup for a lot of bikes?

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How do I figure out the optimal tire pressure (or at least reasonable), for a Honda Click with 17inch IRC EAGLE 60/90 max 36 psi?

The manufacture stock tire pressure (for 14 inch tires) is around 25 psi front and 29 psi back (36 psi back with passenger)

Is 25 front 29 back fine when switching from 14 inch to 17 inch tires? Or should I go with 28 front 32 back which is a common setup for a lot of bikes?

following fatcats rant I guess nobody dares to reply, but I would run 35 front and rear if you are a typical 90 kg farang with an occasional chick on board

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