Fluorescent Bulb Or Starter - How Do I Know What Needs Replacing?

[edwardandtubs]

When I switch on the fluorescent bulb in my kitchen it starts to light up but there's no 'ping' sound like there used to be and it just glows dimly. Does this mean the starter needs to be replaced or might the bulb itself need to be replaced?

[fredob43]

Sound's like the starter but replace both they only cost peanut's.

[TommoPhysicist]

Change em both for less than 100bht ....... why bother trying to work it out?

[transam]

I always keep a spare starter. Sometimes the starter contacts corrode and a simple couple of twists of the starter gets things working. The lamps usually last for yonks but if you can see black residue at the ends/inside the tube then it probably is naff.

[edwardandtubs]

There is black but the problem was the starter. Annoying that there's no definite way to tell (now I have a useless spare lamp which I won't need for years).

[billd766]

No spare lamp is ever useless as the next one to go maybe in 10 minutes, days weeks or months but it will go.

I always keep some spares and usually run out as my neighbour "borrows" them.

[sotsira]

No spare lamp is ever useless as the next one to go maybe in 10 minutes, days weeks or months but it will go.

I always keep some spares and usually run out as my neighbour "borrows" them.

"Borrows them"

does he give them back after he's finished with them?

[billd766]

No spare lamp is ever useless as the next one to go maybe in 10 minutes, days weeks or months but it will go.

I always keep some spares and usually run out as my neighbour "borrows" them.

"Borrows them"

does he give them back after he's finished with them?

Only the dead ones.

However som nam na yesterday morning as on of my 4ft tubes so I "liberated" one of his (mine).

[Pib]

It would be hard to tell if the problem is starter or bulb as either can cause the problem. While some may think a starter is bad becausing they don't see any flashing in the starter, well, some starters are not transparent so you can see the switching/ignition going on within the starter. Both the bulb and starter are cheap to replace and usually a person has another light in the residence they could use to swap parts to be absolutely sure whether the problem is the bulb or starter. But a starter will last much longer than a bulb and if you see a inch or two of black on the ends of the bulb that's a good indicator the bulb has reached the end of its lifespan. I always have a new spare bulb and starter laying around because they will usually stop working at a inopportune time, but I can't remember the last time I replaced a starter. Now if the problem is the ballast that is usually easy to spot from the smell and smoke that often appear when the ballast dies. And for those folks with electronic ballast, the ballast and starter circuits are all part of the electronic ballast....no separate starter involved.

[electau]

It is normal to replace both the starter and tube at the same time. A single tube circuit has a P10 or S10 starter and a twin circuit ( one ballast and two tubes) has a P2 or S2 starter.

Lamps may be 830,840, 850 or 860 varying from cool white to daylight. 840 is the standard.

　

[Crossy]

I'm with electau. It would be false economy not to replace the starter when replacing the tube, although it's always an idea to have spare starters to swap out first, they do fail.

Whilst you're at it, why not replace the ballast with an electronic one, no starter to fail, the tubes last longer and the power consumption is lower?

[BuckarooBanzai]

I have been replacing all standard florescent fixtures with the newer E27 fixture (screw in bulb socket) and the newer florescent bulbs. Many options from 5 to 20 watts (about 40 to 120 watts equiv.) and much easier to service. Also better start-up response - no blink blink blink aggravation. Also have 2 standard color options, a yellowish tint and and a bright white which is similar to the standard long tubes. Since bugs do not like yellow lights I prefer these.

[Daffy D]

I'm with electau. It would be false economy not to replace the starter when replacing the tube, although it's always an idea to have spare starters to swap out first, they do fail.

Whilst you're at it, why not replace the ballast with an electronic one, no starter to fail, the tubes last longer and the power consumption is lower?

I'm all for using the latest technology and have tried the electronic lamps and electronic controlled fans and all have failed within a short time.

The electricity supply here is not very stable and the electronics just don't like it. Also any spikes in the supply from lightning storms will kill the electronics dead.

[lopburi3]

I would also recommend change but complete to the new T-5 bulb systems with electronic starters built in and have been using for at least a year or more and no failure. They are only about 200 baht for the whole unit and very easy to mount (or replace if required). Extremely light weight and no place for lizards to hide/short. Should last about 25% longer with very little dimming with age and instant light.

[BuckarooBanzai]

I'm with electau. It would be false economy not to replace the starter when replacing the tube, although it's always an idea to have spare starters to swap out first, they do fail.

Whilst you're at it, why not replace the ballast with an electronic one, no starter to fail, the tubes last longer and the power consumption is lower?

I'm all for using the latest technology and have tried the electronic lamps and electronic controlled fans and all have failed within a short time.

The electricity supply here is not very stable and the electronics just don't like it. Also any spikes in the supply from lightning storms will kill the electronics dead.

The screw in bulbs do not seem to be prone to early failure. I have been running some for years and I too have a very poor power supply. Just do not use them with any of the night-time 3 wire on-off photo switches which will make them fail very fast. These depend on a constant small leakage current through the light circuit which is very destructive to any electronics. Any photo switch with a switched relay supply works fine though.

[Pib]

The screw in bulbs do not seem to be prone to early failure. I have been running some for years and I too have a very poor power supply. Just do not use them with any of the night-time 3 wire on-off photo switches which will make them fail very fast. These depend on a constant small leakage current through the light circuit which is very destructive to any electronics. Any photo switch with a switched relay supply works fine though.

Yea, me too. At least at the houses I have lived in in both the U.S. and Thailand it seems the screw-in florescent bulbs never last nearly as long as they are rated for; now the long or circular tube type florescent bulbs do seem to live up to their rating for lifespan.

[fredob43]

No spare lamp is ever useless as the next one to go maybe in 10 minutes, days weeks or months but it will go.

I always keep some spares and usually run out as my neighbour "borrows" them.

"Borrows them"

does he give them back after he's finished with them?

Only the dead ones.

However som nam na yesterday morning as on of my 4ft tubes so I "liberated" one of his (mine).

Keep the dead one's Bill they might come in handy. Just been imformed by the G/L that if you keep dead batteries next to new one's they can recharge themselves, I was told yesterday when I tried to sort out 3 good AA one's from the dead lot, so it might work with Light's/starter's you never know.

[Pib]

Good lord, everyone knows putting a dead battery next to a good battery will recharge the dead battery....it's called osmosis, radiation of energy.

Best to put a 50-50 mix of dead and new batteries in a bowl, stir thoroughly, and let them set overnight. Then, the next morning you can sell all the batteries as new batteries at the many 10 & 20 baht outlets.

[Tywais]

Whilst you're at it, why not replace the ballast with an electronic one, no starter to fail, the tubes last longer and the power consumption is lower?

I'll have to disagree about going that route based on experience. Someone at our lab decided we should replace all our conventional ballast/starter systems with electronic. The vast majority have failed over time and we have been reverting back to conventional when a solid state version fails on us.

Believe the reason for changing them was 'economy' which ends up being a false one. At least my experience with many dozens of them installed here. Of course they could have been all cheap Chinese versions and better brands may live longer.

[lopburi3]

The only single T-5 units I have seen were Panasonic and Lamptan and have not had any problems (but only have half dozen). As T-5 is not really new technology (only the larger units are) so hard to believe most users are having such problems. At least it is less hazardous material if not failing too fast.

[David006]

I'm with electau. It would be false economy not to replace the starter when replacing the tube, although it's always an idea to have spare starters to swap out first, they do fail.

Whilst you're at it, why not replace the ballast with an electronic one, no starter to fail, the tubes last longer and the power consumption is lower?

I'm all for using the latest technology and have tried the electronic lamps and electronic controlled fans and all have failed within a short time.

The electricity supply here is not very stable and the electronics just don't like it. Also any spikes in the supply from lightning storms will kill the electronics dead.

The screw in bulbs do not seem to be prone to early failure. I have been running some for years and I too have a very poor power supply. Just do not use them with any of the night-time 3 wire on-off photo switches which will make them fail very fast. These depend on a constant small leakage current through the light circuit which is very destructive to any electronics. Any photo switch with a switched relay supply works fine though.

Interesting..I am running 8 cheap as I could get flouros as road lighting a la Thai ( lots of Lanolin grease and a couple of cut down coke bottles over the ends). Yes Yes I know ...had a few horizontal rain storms kick the GFI....

Anyways, use a photo switch, first one failed and had to have look see what went wrong ( maybe I can fix it..lol)......the switch contacts seemed to be on bi metallic strips like a rice cooker and one had snapped off not burned . So question is... some are more electronic than others? Agree with poster who says avoid electronic controls in LOS as far as possible ...too wet and hot, bugs get in and eat stuff etc.

To the OP starters and tubes are so inexpensive! Keep spares but try cleaning the starter contacts maybe smear a bit of Vaseline or hand cream ....may help ..not that I ever bother.....

Screw in tubes start at 3W BTW would not break the bank if left on....

[fredob43]

Good lord, everyone knows putting a dead battery next to a good battery will recharge the dead battery....it's called osmosis, radiation of energy.

Best to put a 50-50 mix of dead and new batteries in a bowl, stir thoroughly, and let them set overnight. Then, the next morning you can sell all the batteries as new batteries at the many 10 & 20 baht outlets.

Does that include the old one's like mine that were leaking??? not to mention had buggered the good one's so much so I couldn't tell the difference and all had to be dumped. Might be cheaper to dump the G.L. Now's there a thought.