Rampant Violence In Isaan

[panadolsandwich]

It was festival day in Si-Sa-ket (my apologies not the actual town). I'd spent the daylight hours in some periphery village about 15km away. I'd guiltily quaffed 3 large bottles of Chang classic since about midday, but by seven o'clock I felt fine after a light meal of deep fried sour fish sausage and some sticks of BBQ chicken and a light but fiery salad of som tam; and then three red bulls in rapid succession for good measure. I never did understand why they put them in such small bottles – good for profit margins I suppose and noone but me seems to question it. I felt raring to go. I wanted to see the lights, watch the coyote dancers, dance to the music and wish all my cares away. What I saw wasn't quite like that; in fact quite contradictory and a little disturbing.

I arrived in good time with daughter and wife in tow in the UN-inimitable CRV, and a few relatives joined us. I wanted to drink so we went to a local restaurant buffet. It was good fare really - just chomping on small BBQ items while quaffing my beer. Everyone else seemed chuffed too - my daughter and her little cousin each ate about five ice cream cones each, then set about demolishing the squid. I love watching kids eat in a buffet situation - it can tell you all kind of things you never would have guessed otherwise. For instance - there is no need to be overbearing in situations like this - they are perfectly aware that they want to eat more savoury items like BBQ squid, and when my nephew proposed another ice cream it was promptly censured by my daughter - what about the BBQ squid? Also my little nephew was so polite, like a little service attendant really. Always putting ice in my beer, and even pouring more in when necessary. I don't know what they're teaching them in school, but I was enormously impressed by these good manners.

Incidentally, since I've come to Thailand I've become inordinately fond of both squid and mangoes. Prod me with both a squid and a mango and I could become your friend for life.

The real fun started when we left and the relatives followed in their pick-up. By luck and a fair bit of skill, I cajoled the CRV into a prime position facing the entrance from about 80m away.

We proceeded into the entrance with pre-bought snacks and rattan mat under arm. The show was brilliant - live band, beautiful girls skimpily clad dancing very suggestively; light humour by a comedian pair - which I could appreciate - I was even singled out as the lone farang - but it seemed the thousand people were cheering me. I stood up and obliged and waved my hand - well fame never came more easier than that did it?

As the evening grew longer a weird thing started to happen. The light hearted genteel atmosphere seemed to evaporate into thin air. Until now, the crowd had been peaceful with a good-hearted let's all have fun here together attitude. People would hear a favourite song and run to the front to dance and let their worries disappear.

At this point I have to confess I wasn't there when it first kicked off - they didn't sell beer at the venue, so I'd gone off to buy some and smuggle it in.

When I came back a lot of people were leaving, and a man had been chibbed in the stomach and was being stretchered into an ambulance. A lot of people were speculating he was already dead and crowded around like vultures to witness it – not unlike ghouls, but uneventfully he was taken away by ambulance. I'm yet to hear of his fate. I just happened to see him being put into the ambulance, and the wound appeared to be to his lower abdomen on the right side. I suppose it's not for me to speculate but it did seem rather superficial – I'm a surgeon and I was tempted to intervene and examine him, but it all seemed to be in hand so to speak. If it was more serious I would certainly would have taken charge.

Unperturbed, and snug in a cosy drunkenness I went back in - the entertainment was courageously going on. What I found though was that the crowd had turned into a powder keg. Within five minutes I saw a drunken man tripped by a baton wielding bouncer, then with heavy boot stamped repeatedly on his throat he was handcuffed, then savagely kicked by about six bullies in security garb; even more disturbingly when the people who witnessed this started to step forward and condemn this - he pulled out a silver revolver - and in that moment I knew he wouldn't hesitate to shoot. The band was surreal y playing the song - 'don't push me too hard'.

The violence - it seemed so casual. Another bloke was king hit by a policeman I knew, bizarrely as undercover (how could he pull this off?) - I'd bought him many a beer in our village. When the man hit didn't go down he was swarmed by security (I put my policemen friend down as a soft touch). Then something akin to a bomb went off front of stage (I suspect thrown by security) and everyone close by panicked and ran. It was just a particularly large firework though - thankfully no one was hurt. The band stopped for perhaps a minute, but then started playing a popular Thai song - sorry the name eludes me right now. People were drawn as if against their will back to the stage - and the dancing seemed primeval - no skill, zero skill, almost anti-skill - just happiness to feel the beat. Rural people and their hour of savage fun.

By now you may be thinking I should be worried about my own safety, of my wife and child - but it seemed like the security was in control, if not brutally so. Also, I'd come to see the show. Even so, I went back to the CRV and got two scalpels from my medical satchel and put them in my pockets. I was prepared to vivisect or disembowel anybody that threatened to harm me or my small family. But I longed for a semi-automatic.

The band finished the song, and people walked quickly away from the stage - no applause, nothing. They are a tough crowd in Isaan. Perhaps sensing this the band fired up perhaps the most crowd rousing song they had. It was, I genuinely don't know how to describe this, but I'll give it a go. It was disturbing. They came to the front of the stage creeping in half crouched positions, like vermin drawn unwillingly by a piper's pipe. They skipped, and kind of danced as if drawn like idiot zombies to a vampire feast. It was surreal, but it was real. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen if with my own eyes.

A bottle of water was strewn to the left side of our party so as it could douse the maximum amount of people it seemed. This caused a minor skirmish, some people like to exaggerate – yet it wasn't anything more than that – a few people got their heads kicked and there was some blood – well enough blood to form a pool, but people – even respectable people like the doctors and teachers I knew were standing up and I recognised that atavistic look in their eye - it was like everyone there was ready and willing to fight at a moments notice - I was fascinated and would have stayed if it was just me – if only to witness it from an anthropic principle, but I had to take my wife and daughter back to safety. I feared they'd be trampled if there was anymore panic to make it for the very narrow exit. Also the atmosphere was such that just being a farang would justify an attack, and any retaliation on my part would most likely be taken as an invitation to all and sundry to kick me, and stamp on my throat. I was thinking clearly though – I always seem to do, especially under such circumstances.

Moments later we sat in the CRV all doors locked, drinking cans of Chang Export and watched as the violence escalated. Scores of youths kept arriving on skinny wheeled motorbikes. An ugly gang that clearly outnumbered security waited patiently outside the entrance. Then it kicked off - an ugly cowardly thing where it appeared you would hit your opponent then run, then the guys supporting your opponent would chase you, then if enough of your friends were there - you would make a stand, then perhaps chase them. Such flocking behaviour is seen in birds. It sickened me. Such cowards. Nobody stood up and just fought. Perhaps standing up an fighting is a European thing? I wanted to time their vicious flock with our CRV leaving so I could run as many down as I could. Noone would question us leaving at such high velocity in the face of such a riot.

However, I'd seen enough, we drove home. I'll leave it to the reader to fathom their own conclusions. I've got my own ideas, but I'd rather hear your ideas first - why?

[daftpunker]

Sounds like a great place i wonder why ive ever been there?

[Songhua]

Isaan version of a good mosh pit.

That's just a Saturday night on the town in the West.

[Neeranam]

I'm so grateful I dont drink anymore.

Your well-written piece reminded me about how I would put my own selfish need for alcohol before anything else.

The lack of awareness of dangerous situations brought on by Chang beer put me in hospital a few times. I feel lucky that I am still alive.

I would never take my children to such an event. Your wife didn't say anything! Was she drunk too?

Edited November 4, 2012 by Neeranam

[krisb]

violence at mor lum is normal. Thais are terrible drinkers.

Advice is dont go, they get dangerous quickly and as the only falang as you say, your a easy target. Suprised your wife wanted to go and take your daughter!

ps, your event want that bad, no guns came out.

[KhaoNiaw]

Seen it many times. It's alcohol-fueled. As you say, a lot of fun and family entertainment until the alcohol kicks in. The young lads often see it as an opportunity to settle scores and being so drunk new grievances can be found very quickly. It's often kids from different villages and some of the older men, as you've seen, including the cops seem to enjoy the chance to show off their own toughness and will really lay into the kids. Many stories on this forum about how the level of violence can escalate quickly in these situations in Thailand - it's not only knives but shootings are not uncommon.

A good band will sense the atmosphere and go into some quieter songs, not play something that winds people up even more.

One thing that I notice in the aftermath, there's not really any sense that justice needs to be done in a legal sense. Compensation between injured victims and attackers can be worked out by the kamnan, pooyaiban etc., with or without police involvement. No feeling that cases should go through the legal system. And if anyone's not satisfied, there's always next year.

[trainman34014]

So; your a Doctor....or a Troll? Is there another Doctor on the Planet with such a lousy diet? or one who would slice people up with his scalpel should he be accosted? or one that would stay and watch all this carnage whilst his family were at risk?

All I can say is...I'm most glad you are not my Doctor !

[chrisinth]

You seem to have been participating in the cause all day............Drink!

When a lot of Thais get drunk, pent up emotions come to the surface very quickly and the result of this can be as you described. Security usually go OTT to try and rectify the situation and the problem increases. Go to any Carabao concert (and I am friends with both Ad & Lek) and you will see.

Just as an aside, I would consider someone from the medical profession deliberatly going back to his car, putting two scalpels in his pocket and returning to the mellee as a bit unethical. Why didn't you just leave? Believe me, if you pulled one of those, your family would have lost their provider!

Not criticising, just observing

[chrisinth]

So; your a Doctor....or a Troll? Is there another Doctor on the Planet with such a lousy diet? or one who would slice people up with his scalpel should he be accosted? or one that would stay and watch all this carnage whilst his family were at risk?

All I can say is...I'm most glad you are not my Doctor !

Sort of covered that in the next post. Strange outlook from any responsible person, especially someone from the medical profession.

[macksview]

standard mor lam, temple do, a lot of places start them early in the day and finish before dark due to the violence that does occour at them.

lao kow, village idiot egos coming to the fore and a good excuse for a punch up.

good day/night for all and raises some money for the temple.

[cardholder]

Ever attended a Carabao concert ?

First time I had ever seen armed guards at a music event.

[Neeranam]

So; your a Doctor....or a Troll? Is there another Doctor on the Planet with such a lousy diet? or one who would slice people up with his scalpel should he be accosted? or one that would stay and watch all this carnage whilst his family were at risk?

All I can say is...I'm most glad you are not my Doctor !

Sort of covered that in the next post. Strange outlook from any responsible person, especially someone from the medical profession.

It seems that surgeons have a higher rate of alcoholism that the general public!

http://www.doctorwascher.com/tag/surgeons

[Neeranam]

Ever attended a Carabao concert ?

First time I had ever seen armed guards at a music event.

The first one I saw there were tanks and other army vehicles surrounding the whole area. This was at Sanam Luang 20 years ago.

[macksview]

alcohol and idiots, the same all over the world, isan no different.

[Pormax]

As a fellow medical peson I would have been glad that you did not intervene to help with the man who had a knife wound. With the amount of alcohol you had been drinking you would have probably made things worse.

Personally if it was me in your position I would not have written a post admitting you are not only medically qualified but a surgeon. I would be ashamed. A post like this only shows how stupid you are. It also does a disservice to the medical proffession to know that we have people who should know better but act in the irresponsible manner you did.

Ali I see on your post is drink drink drink, same as the thais do.

Thais cannot control themselves after a couple of drinks and there always seem to be many who are looking for a fight. This is why at any gathering there are always security, normally by local men paid by the local council.

You say you went back to your car and grabbed some scalpel from your surgeon's bag to protect your family.

Irresponsible. You armed yourself with a deadly weapon and went back to the party. A crime. The correct thing to do if you were that serious about your family's safety was to remove them and yourself and go back home.

What makes me angry is that after all the alcohol you admit to consuming, you drove your family home!!

As a surgeon have you not seen enough accidents with dead or mutilated victims, many of them innocent, caused by people drinking and driving?????

You should be ashamed of yourself. Up to you if you want to cause harm to yourself but it is incomprehensible for you to put your family at risk or others.

[KhaoNiaw]

At a Carabao concert once and one of the local pooyais came on stage to remind the audience that they're all Thai and should love each other, not fight each other. They should only fight foreigners! - Which brought on a lot of laughter and cheering from my friends and those in the vicinity.

And at another Carabao concert, there were two gangs of rival technical students, obviously not the real hardcore, just eyeing each other up and deciding what to do. Before they could start, one big fat 'heavy' stepped in and made them shake hands and enjoy the concert as Carabao fans together. They must have been praying that no-one reported back to their mates!

[farang000999]

By now you may be thinking I should be worried about my own safety, of my wife and child - but it seemed like the security was in control, if not brutally so. Also, I'd come to see the show. Even so, I went back to the CRV and got two scalpels from my medical satchel and put them in my pockets. I was prepared to vivisect or disembowel anybody that threatened to harm me or my small family. But I longed for a semi-automatic.

Why in the world you bring a young child to a night concert in Isaan with coyote dancers during which you were intent on getting pissed? Stop being a bad parent imho.

Edited November 4, 2012 by farang000999

[Pormax]

Re-reading the article then the op has either 'trolled'. Not a surgeon or just plain stupid.

As i cannot believe that someone with the intelligence level that is required to be a surgeon could act like he says he did or own up to be so irresponsible.

Yes glad you are not my doctor as I would not even want you to operate on my dogs.

The only positive thing would I suppose be is that no general anesthetic would be required because the alcohol fumes from your breath would have probably knocked me out.

[farang000999]

Obviously he is not a farang surgeon in Isaan. He had a first aid kit in the car.

[macksview]

coyote girls in body stockings grinding away to the music, pelvic thrusts on every thump from the base drum, dads had redbull and a bit to drink, the event is starting to kick off, and instead of a tactial withdrawl i am back to the suv tooling up for the fracas.

hope the daughter sees all this, maybe she can find a farang like mum.

[chrisinth]

So; your a Doctor....or a Troll? Is there another Doctor on the Planet with such a lousy diet? or one who would slice people up with his scalpel should he be accosted? or one that would stay and watch all this carnage whilst his family were at risk?

All I can say is...I'm most glad you are not my Doctor !

Sort of covered that in the next post. Strange outlook from any responsible person, especially someone from the medical profession.

It seems that surgeons have a higher rate of alcoholism that the general public!

http://www.doctorwascher.com/tag/surgeons

The alcohol part has been with the profession for ever due to the high stress factor; that I can understand (not neccessarily condone). The "leaving the scene, getting tooled up and returning" bit, for any reason but especially when the family is involved is BS.

Still, a good troll post methinks, getting a lot of reactions!

[macksview]

just enjoying the troll post, good fun to vent whilst bored shiteless at work.

not brave enough to read the OP post to the medical professionals i work with.

[chrisinth]

Ever attended a Carabao concert ?

First time I had ever seen armed guards at a music event.

Ever attended a Carabao concert ?

First time I had ever seen armed guards at a music event.

At the start of every concert the group makes an appeal that there is no fighting. I have seen them walk off stage at least half a dozen times when it has kicked off. There is not a bad bone among any of the group (towards violence anyway...) and the only thing that I can relate the trouble coming from is the origins of the group coming from the protests many years ago and the sense of rebellion they had years ago.

Seems the only thing we learn from history is that we learn nothing from history.........

[transam]

Reads like a load of make believe nonsense, or the OP is daft (can I say daft ) .

[Pormax]

Reads like a load of make believe nonsense, or the OP is daft (can I say daft ) .

Why mince words? He is probably still under the influence so he won't notice the truth.

Think the op deserves all that is thrown at him (and more)

[mauGR1]

Reads like a load of make believe nonsense, or the OP is daft (can I say daft ) .

The part where he drinks Chang after Chang sounds quite realistic to me.

[patongphil]

Reads like a load of make believe nonsense, or the OP is daft (can I say daft ) .

Having been to many a Mor Lum in both Nong Khai and Maha Sarakham I have never been to one where there has not been at least a few fights and the ever presence of the "security" does little to prevent things blowing up.

We are due to have a "concert" for our new house in mid january and I am dreading the occasion. Band booked for 5pm to 11pm - just enough time have at least 4 fights I reckon. Have had to splash out 3,000 baht for security and the "monkey house" on the back of a pick up.

[krisb]

Reads like a load of make believe nonsense, or the OP is daft (can I say daft ) .

Having been to many a Mor Lum in both Nong Khai and Maha Sarakham I have never been to one where there has not been at least a few fights and the ever presence of the "security" does little to prevent things blowing up.

We are due to have a "concert" for our new house in mid january and I am dreading the occasion. Band booked for 5pm to 11pm - just enough time have at least 4 fights I reckon. Have had to splash out 3,000 baht for security and the "monkey house" on the back of a pick up.

Mor lum for the new house!!

Sorry but silly silly idea. Cancel it. Big problems coming your way. Drunk gatecrashers yay.

[jaideeguy]

Your story sounds like normal Thai 'Sanook'.....which in Engrish translates into drunken insanity. You sound like a fool for staying there, especially with your family. I've seen guns being shot into the crowds in local Wat fund raising events and now I refuse to go to any of those or if I do get dragged, I escape early before the animals get too rowdy. The Thai wife claims that it's mostly teenagers that start the ruckus.

[Songhua]

An attempt at Thai bashing.

Reading between the lines ..... even after a full day of chugging down Changs and RedBull, OP (a farang) was virtually the only one able to maintain his composure and self-control, whereas the locals were apparently incapable of it. Even the kids remainied well behaved despite being hyped up on sugar from all those icecreams. Amazing.

I particularly like the part in his dream where he is singled out as special and cheered by the Thai masses for no reason other than simply being a farang.