A trip to Thailand's great northeast


Wat Phra That Phanom.

BANGKOK: -- Less than 10 per cent of the arrivals who descend in droves on Thailand make it to the Northeast. That’s a shame. The kingdom’s largest region has much to recommend it: temples of Khmer vintage and antiquity; Mekong-straddling towns and maritime odysseys; spicy dishes to tantalise the taste buds; and incredibly friendly locals.

But there are a few drawbacks too. The bigger urban centres are a bit drab and host little nightlife, English is not that widely spoken, and some of the rural roads are in a state of disrepair.

But do not let these speed bumps get in the way of exploring the country’s most unexplored region. You’ll need about a week to do the following itinerary, though it’s been designed so you can start in any place, or if you’re coming from Laos or northern Thailand do it in reverse.

Nakhon Ratchasima

Sometimes referred to as Khorat, this city on the Khorat Plateau is about three hours northeast of the capital.

It’s a sprawling city of a quarter million inhabitants well served by buses and trains from Bangkok. For an overnighter, book a room at the Hermitage Resort, a mid-range hotel with a good spa and Chinese restaurant. The hotel’s karaoke bar will give you an earful of the northeast’s biggest night out.

The city is a jumping off point for Khao Yai National Park and the dude ranch of Pensuk Great Western, which ropes in city slickers with cowboys, horses and Wild East trappings.
Renowned for producing popular dairy products, the Chokchai Farm milks the cash cow of agro-tourism on weekends and official holidays.

That’s when visitors come to learn all about life on a dairy farm. The steakhouse, which has several branches in Bangkok, is excellent too.

Phimai Historical Park

Situated some 60 kilometres from the capital of Nakhon Ratchasima, in the town of Phimai, is this former outpost for the empire builders of Angkor. In fact, some of these well-preserved structures in the historical park are thought to be older than parts of Angkor Wat.
Dating from the tumultuous turn of the 11th century, the centerpiece, Prasat Hin Phimai, is the most colossal sandstone sanctuary in Thailand. It is also the park’s focal point.

Land of the Dinosaurs

For those fascinated by reptiles and dinosaurs – and what boy isn’t? – taking a detour due north to the provincial capital of Khon Kaen is the real reptilian deal.

Ironically, the business and higher learning capital of the Northeast is situated in the midst of the region’s biggest dinosaur graveyard. A few skeletal specimens from here, first discovered in Thailand back in 1976, are on display in the Phu Wiang Dinosaur Museum.

The museum is on the grounds of Phu Wiang National Park. The park’s excavation pits show where some of these primeval monsters (several discovered only in Thailand) were unearthed.

For a full day out, combine the park and museum with a visit to Ban Kok Sa-Nga (“Cobra Village”), where locals raise and put on snake shows beside the temple, and Ban Kok Tortoise Town, where hundreds of sacred tortoises trudge through the streets, backyards and even the homes of the inhabitants, as they are treated like sacred cows in India. Both hamlets are about 50 kilometres outside of the capital and are well sign posted.

Buri Ram

Buri Ram means “Pleasant Town”. Not a place that strains for superlatives, this humble and unpretentious hamlet is the jumping-off point for the phenomenal Wat Khao Phnom Ruang.

Perched on a clifftop that affords heart-stopping vistas of the verdant countryside, this temple devoted to Shiva, where a stone phallic symbol remains a sexual object of veneration, is both massive and remarkably intact. After a morning spent touring the temple, it’s off for some wild times in the country’s capital of elephants.

Surin

Just down the road from Buri Ram, also on the main railway line, is this crossroads where Lao, Khmer, Thai and Kui cultures converge; the provincial seal is the Hindu god Indra riding a sacred elephant before a Khmer-style shrine.

That sets the stage for Surin’s main act – a village where elephants are treated like members of the family. At Baan Ta Klang, many visitors do a homestay, learning to eat, sleep and live like locals.

At the Elephant Study Center, there are circus-like daily shows and elephant rides. For voluntourists, the new Surin Project is a spin-off of the Elephant Nature Foundation run by the famous conservationist Sangduen “Lek” Chailert.

The project requires paid volunteers to help with their new facilities for abused and abandoned tuskers, participating in basic elephant care.

Mekong Odysseys

As Southeast Asia’s biggest bloodline of commerce and culture, the Mekong River feeds and waters hundreds of coastal communities.

To tap this rich vein of history and sights for city-sore eyes, make your way up the porous border with Laos through Ubon Ratchathani and Yasothon, where visitors have a blast at the annual Rocket Festival, to the eponymous capital of Nakhon Phanom province.

It’s a sleepy city with a violent past thanks to its proximity to Laos during the Vietnam War. Between the capital and the airbase is Ban Nachok, the village in which Ho Chi Minh took refuge for three years. The Vietnamese leader’s former residence doubles as a museum celebrating his revolutionary life.

The province’s other main attraction is Wat Phra That Phanom, the region’s oldest and grandest temple, located some 50 kilometres south of here in the town of That Phanom.

Use the Nakhon Phanom River View Hotel in the provincial capital as a base of explorations. The semi-alfresco restaurant comes complete with gorgeous views of the Mekong.

Nong Khai

For soaking up more of the waterway’s maritime ambiance, this is Thailand’s Loch Ness, though part of the mystery it harbors is exposed during the Naga Fireball Festival held every October on the last night of Buddhist Lent, when orbs of light mysteriously rise from the river, arc hundreds of metres through the sky and promptly disappear.

The pious attribute them to Naga, the seven headed Serpent Lord whose body and crested heads forms the balustrades of temples. In one tale, these dragon-like creatures dwell at the bottom of the Mekong River. To pay homage to the Buddha every year, they shoot off the fireballs. A more scientific explanation is that the orbs come from methane deposits ignited every year by the full moon.

Whatever you believe, you can still soak up some of the city’s maritime magic at the legendary Mut Mee Guesthouse. It’s got rooms with Thai decorations overlooking the Mekong, a garden with hammocks, a good bar and restaurant and warmhearted staff. They also have yoga classes and massages.

In these parts, a paramount pleasure is renting a bicycle from the guesthouse to explore some of the riverside roads and the surreal sculpture garden called the Pavilion of Kaewkoo.

Designed by a semi-mad mystic of Lao ethnicity who claimed to be “half man and half snake”, the mummified remains of Luang Poo Boun Leua Sourirat are encased in glass on the third floor of the main building.

All in all, the garden of Bosch-like grotesques and beatific deities contains around 100 sculptures, many based on the Buddhist and Hindu canons. Some of them are 20-25 metres high.

Among gourmands, Nong Khai is also reputed to have one of the country’s best Vietnamese restaurants, Daeng Namnuang, serving up delights like pork spring rolls at a riverside venue.

Yet another local speciality is the sunset and dinner cruises. Mut Mee’s boat, the Nagarina, is a reliable choice. Unlike some of the tasteless versions of Thai fare the major hotel cruises offer on Bangkok cruises, this on-board meal, heavy on freshly caught fish, is the real McCoy.

Chiang Khan

After a night or two in Nong Khai, it’s time for a gentle drive to Chiang Khan, a rustic town on the Mekong in the mountainous province of Loei that epitomises the “slow travel” trend. On the main drag you’ll find a photogenic selection of old wooden homes, shops and inexpensive guesthouses, and life set to a sleepwalker’s pace.

The Chiang Khan Guesthouse is an old teak house enhanced with lovely river views to gorge your eyes on those cotton candy pink and fireball orange sunrises and sunsets.

Run by a Dutchman and his Thai wife, who are treasure chests of information, they will arrange everything from rafting trips and cooking classes to performances of local music and side trips to the famous Chateau de Loei winery. In the guesthouse’s superb restaurant, make sure you fill up on those staples of Lao and Isaan food: papaya salad, barbecued chicken, sticky rice and spicy catfish.

Loei

For Thais, the province’s most popular attraction is the Phu Kradeung National Park. The bell-shaped mountain is named after its centrepiece.

Hardier visitors hike to the pinnacle where there’s a camping ground with tents to rent. It makes for a wonderful overnighter.

During the day, there are 50 kilometres of walking trails to explore. At night, alpine breezes provide refreshment and the stars are rhinestones studded on a black velvet sky.

For foreigners, however, Loei’s main event is the Phi Ta Khon (“Ghosts with Human Eyes”) Festival held every June or July, when young men wearing colorful, ghoulish masks and waving enormous phallic symbols around take over the streets of the town of Dansai, where old men dress up as ladyboys and traditional dancers parade and pirouette through the streets during the reenactment of a Buddhist folk tale in which the sacred and profane do a mating dance.

This is an excerpt from Tuttle Travel Pack Thailand, published by Tuttle Publishing and written by Jim Algie. Priced at B465, it is available from all leading bookstores. tuttlepublishing.com

Source: http://www.thephuketnews.com/a-trip-to-thailands-great-northeast-40607.php


-- Phuket News 2013-07-04

Sounds nice.

A few bits of vital information are missing though, like, how would the average traveller get from Wat Khao Phanom Rung in Buriram to the elephant village in Surin.

Sounds nice.

A few bits of vital information are missing though, like, how would the average traveller get from Wat Khao Phanom Rung in Buriram to the elephant village in Surin.

I did a good part of this loop a few months ago. Having your own transport is pretty important. Sure, you can get from one major city to another without, but getting to some of the attractions without your own wheels would make it tough and very time consuming.

I'd like to finish the loop by doing Nong Khai to Chiang Khan then to Loei. Sounds great.

The article is spot on regarding the rural roads. They were in pretty bad shape.

How can you have a maritime anything 500km from the sea?

There's also the famous beer bottle temple, which is near Sisaket. This could be combined with a trip to the elephant festival in Surin. I saw this on another post, but might be of interest to those visiting the NE.

http://www.renegadetravels.com/beer-bottle-temple-in-thailand/

I have visited all the mentioned places, partly several times. All recommended.

What no mention of the F1 racing that is held in Khon Kaen daily?

"You’ll need about a week to do the following itinerary,"...Maybe BUT:-

The Surin elephant festival is in November, whilst Loei’s main event is the Phi Ta Khon which is in June/July, and furthermore the Nong Khai Naga Fireball Festival is held every October on the last night of Buddhist Lent,

There will be a few disappointed tourists if they follow the itinerary expecting to see everything described!

I know most of the destinations and have to say that I enjoy them at least one per month for a weekend trip from Sakon Nakhon.

i love ubon,,,the end,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

"You’ll need about a week to do the following itinerary,"...Maybe BUT:-

The Surin elephant festival is in November, whilst Loei’s main event is the Phi Ta Khon which is in June/July, and furthermore the Nong Khai Naga Fireball Festival is held every October on the last night of Buddhist Lent,

There will be a few disappointed tourists if they follow the itinerary expecting to see everything described!

there are activities at the village every day involving elephants. The 'Elephant festival' in November is in fact a round-up, all animals registered at Surin have to return then. Much stupid and mindless cruelty involved, leave it out please. ฿1000.- entry ....http://www.boundingoveroursteps.com/surin-elephant-roundup-behind-the-scenes/

"You’ll need about a week to do the following itinerary,"...Maybe BUT:-

The Surin elephant festival is in November, whilst Loei’s main event is the Phi Ta Khon which is in June/July, and furthermore the Nong Khai Naga Fireball Festival is held every October on the last night of Buddhist Lent,

There will be a few disappointed tourists if they follow the itinerary expecting to see everything described!

there are activities at the village every day involving elephants. The 'Elephant festival' in November is in fact a round-up, all animals registered at Surin have to return then. Much stupid and mindless cruelty involved, leave it out please. ฿1000.- entry ....http://www.boundingoveroursteps.com/surin-elephant-roundup-behind-the-scenes/

That's a very interesting and sad read. Should be required reading for everyone who goes to the elephant festival.

Meanwhile, in Udon Thani....

Meanwhile, in Udon Thani....

Don't tell anyone....if the secret gets out, they will flock here and that means no more 10 baht beer at the 5 story gogo complex next to the water park.....

I think the best place on the list is Nong Khai. Love it there very relaxing and cheap cheap cheap !!

Sounds nice.

A few bits of vital information are missing though, like, how would the average traveller get from Wat Khao Phanom Rung in Buriram to the elephant village in Surin.

CAR

Sounds nice.

A few bits of vital information are missing though, like, how would the average traveller get from Wat Khao Phanom Rung in Buriram to the elephant village in Surin.

CAR

how would the average traveller get from Wat Khao Phanom Rung in Buriram to the elephant village in Surin.

Most average travellers to Thailand do not have a CAR

Sounds nice.

A few bits of vital information are missing though, like, how would the average traveller get from Wat Khao Phanom Rung in Buriram to the elephant village in Surin.

CAR

how would the average traveller get from Wat Khao Phanom Rung in Buriram to the elephant village in Surin.

Most average travellers to Thailand do not have a CAR

BUS

Sounds nice.

A few bits of vital information are missing though, like, how would the average traveller get from Wat Khao Phanom Rung in Buriram to the elephant village in Surin.

CAR

how would the average traveller get from Wat Khao Phanom Rung in Buriram to the elephant village in Surin.

Most average travellers to Thailand do not have a CAR

BUS

Even a bus would be difficult.

Not aware of any buses at Khao Phanom Rung, And as far as I am aware the elephant village (which is way outside Surin) is not served by a bus route.

Car is the only real option, and it would therefore be necessary to rent one for a few days.

I think this is impossible in a week apart from the dates of some festivals being months apart.

Lived in Khon Kaen not user friendly for a visitor not knowing it.

Nong Khai ok but full of dogs if you walk the wrong road. Stay at Whites hotel.

Nakhon Phanom good but you really need to know where you are going, not a lot there.

How do you get around it all that's a lot of kilos.

Could say much more.

If you wanted to follow this and have a car I would suggest two weeks minimum longer if you have it. Three better. Simply hours and hours of driving so how can you see all the sights.

I was in Dan Sai Loei, for a wedding in May, I loved the scenery rolling down from the Chiang Mai side ( so to speak ) ..........

It's a pity it wasn't a clear day, I would love to have seen a blue sky behind that......I stayed at the PhunaCome Resort.......

It's usually a bit pricey but I got it half price as it was low season. Lovely place.

I have been to Isaan many times and I know why so few tourists go there.

I have been to Isaan many times and I know why so few tourists go there.

Why?

i have lived in this area between Khon Kaen and Udon Thani, for the past 6 years and it is far way above the best area of any other place in Thailand for residing in. You get to feel the true thailand at first hand, not like at any of the many over commercial. over priced places, where tourist flock to, and get ripped off.

MOTORBIKE... BUT something bigger than a Scooter.....

i have lived in this area between Khon Kaen and Udon Thani, for the past 6 years and it is far way above the best area of any other place in Thailand for residing in. You get to feel the true thailand at first hand, not like at any of the many over commercial. over priced places, where tourist flock to, and get ripped off.

Most tourists like to flock to the commercial, over-priced places though. They're like sheep - they just follow other tourists. Not many any interested in seeing anything off the beaten track.

....last night of Buddhist Lent, when orbs of light mysteriously rise from the river, arc hundreds of metres through the sky and promptly disappear.

There is nothing mysterious about the ballistic curve.

The pious attribute them to Naga, the seven headed Serpent Lord whose body and crested heads forms the balustrades of temples. In one tale, these dragon-like creatures dwell at the bottom of the Mekong River. To pay homage to the Buddha every year, they shoot off the fireballs.

The Pious are aided in their belief by copious quantities of alcohol and the desire to create a tourist attraction out of nothing but mumbo-jumbo and a few fireworks.

A more scientific explanation is that the orbs come from methane deposits ignited every year by the full moon.

Wipe you mouth - you still have some BS stuck to the side of your lip.

I was waiting for ya to mention khon kaen,and udonthani

Sounds nice.

A few bits of vital information are missing though, like, how would the average traveller get from Wat Khao Phanom Rung in Buriram to the elephant village in Surin.

CAR

Excellent idea, though I think that I would hire a car with a driver who can speak at least a little English.

The driver will know the best way to get to the required places and if there are any problems, he will speak Thai and sort things out.

You can relax and enjoy the views. Of course you need a good driver, not someone high on drugs or alcohol.

In 2000, on holiday in Penang, that´s just what I did, the driver was fantastic and even took us to other attractions along the way that he knew about, like seeing orangutang, even getting to hold a baby one.

The car hire firm booked nice hotels for us and the driver was given a small amount of cash and allowed to sleep wherever he choose.

The trip was from Penang to the Cameron Highlands.

I´m glad we had a good driver as I would have been too stressed and tired to enjoy the attraction after the work of driving there.

Not knowing the way, hard to understand signs, narrow, winding potholed roads etc.

The driver also choose super eating places along the way, not too expensive but quite an attraction in themselves.

I haven´t actually tried this in Thailand as friends and family have always taken care of our trips to the beauty spots.

Take care when choosing the company providing the service cos TiT.....

I have been to Isaan many times and I know why so few tourists go there.

Why?

Apart from som tam, larb and gai yang, there is nothing out there.