True Cable wifi router options

[Seismic]

I have just switched to true cable and the installation included the cisco EPC3825 "residential gateway".

While happy with the wired service, I find that the Wifi is quite poor compared with my previous ADSL Asus N55U.

Does anyone have recommendations for a better wifi box than provided. A more pertinent question may be can I change the Cisco unit

to one of my choice??, I believe that the signal may be keyed to the Cisco units MAC address, in which case If I changed the unit I would not receive any signal.

regards

[Pib]

I doubt you can even buy a cable modem/router since cable devices are married to the specific cable system via Mac code and serial number and maybe more such as the firmware... the cable company will also do periodic firmware pushes.

I understand your situation as I've been on True cable (20 or 15Mb plans) for over 3 years. Before True implemented "bursting" capability on their system the Cisco and Thomson cable modems with 54g (54Mb link speed capable) they provided me were fine since the max speed I could get was 20/15Mb and the 54g True issued Wifi router gave adequate data throughput (up to about 22-24Mb which more than covered the max speed "arriving" my cable modem/ROUTER and the 54g capable only older laptops I had.

But when True cable Internet implemented bursting around 18 months ago and continued to improve its bursting capability it's not uncommon for me to get bursts of speed a little over 40Mb for a few seconds during any speed test and watch the bursting speed tapper off but it may take over 30 seconds to fully tapper to my current plan's speed of 15Mb which is longer than most speed testing type programs run their test. I got this speed on my plan and when using a flash/ookla based Speedtest like Speedtest.net, the TOT Speedtest, or True's own speedtester all of which are fine for "local" connection testing but can be easily fooled for international testing.

Anyway I recently got a new laptop which had N Wifi capability and I knew I was now losing out on Wifi speed since the great majority of 54g Wifi routers can't do a higher Wifi data throughput than 22-24Mb... yes they can do a "link" connection of 54Mb but don't confuse max link connection speed with Max "data" throughput capability/speed. So after some research I bought an Asus RT-N12HP 300Mb N Wifi router which can also serve as a Access Point or Range Extended, comes with two 33cm long antennas, adjustable power output, and a simple but thorough menu interface.

Now on my N and G capable laptops I can get that approx 40Mb bursting speed via my Wifi connection and around a 10dbm stronger Wifi signal around my two story home (I now get 5 of 5 bars on my laptop strength meter where I got 3 or 4 before). I'm very happy with the Asus router... it cost Bt2,000 at a local Bangkok store. Now it comes with standard 100Mb ethernet ports vs 1GB ports and no USB port if you need that stuff... I didn't as I just needed a Wifi router that would give better Wifi data throughput and blast out a stronger signal... and simple to use.

Just hook a ethernet output port from your True router to the Asus WAN input, a little bit of setup, and you are good to go. Would also recommend you then disable the Wifi radio on the True Wifi router to prevent any possible interference from that signal since you won't need that signal any more.

Sent from my Onda V971 tablet

[Pib]

I wrote above pretty fast this morning before I had to go out for the day. But where I said:

But when True cable Internet implemented bursting around 18 months ago and continued to improve its bursting capability it's not uncommon for me to get bursts of speed a little over 40Mb for a few seconds during any speed test and watch the bursting speed tapper off but it may take over 30 seconds to fully tapper to my current plan's speed of 15Mb which is longer than most speed testing type programs run their test.

I should have said ....and watch the bursting speed tapper off while the test completes...and by the time the test has completed I'll end up with around a 25Mb speedtest results. For example below is a test I ran using the TOT speedtest from my Bangkok home to this TOT speed test server in Bangkok just a few minutes ago on this fine Sunday evening. Since the test takes around 30 seconds to complete the bursting is still occurring which results in a speed test download speed result much higher than my 15Mb/1.5Mb plan...usually a download speed around 25Mb...bursting don't apply to the upload side. During the first few seconds of the test the bursting reaches around 41Mb which is really nice for browsing/quickly loading website pages. I would get basically the same result using the True speedtester site or the Speedtest.net site. My Asus router is on second floor/upstairs in the master bedroom and my laptop is normally being used downstairs when means the signal has to fight through a concrete floor and several concrete walls....right now I'm getting signal strength of 5 of 5 signal bars and I've still have it set at the normal signal level output level of 80mw...it's adjustable up to 200mw.

Edited February 23, 2014 by Pib

[muratremix]

Just connect an ap of your choice for wifi and disable wifi on cable modem.

[Seismic]

Just connect an ap of your choice for wifi and disable wifi on cable modem.

Perhaps you dont speak english ?????,

I cleaely stated in the OP that I needed Wifi.

[Pib]

Just connect an ap of your choice for wifi and disable wifi on cable modem.

Perhaps you dont speak english ?????,

I cleaely stated in the OP that I needed Wifi.

And that is what you get--Wifi. An AP (Access Point) is a form of Wifi access. Like the Asus Wifi router I recommend...it csn be setup as a Wifi Router, Wifi AP, or Wifi Repeater. Recommend you study up on common router terminology.

Sent from my Samsung S4 (GT-I9500)

[noise]

I agree with what Pib said but I think you could use a different cable modem router, if you can find a better one. I have only seen one in Chiangmai and that was some time ago. And the spec was not any better than the Cisco, so I did not get it. There is no real demand for them here yet.

True provide me with a Cisco DPC/EPC2325, a friend said they gave him a Buffalo (if I remember correctly). But these are 802.11g standard routers. They may be new, never before used, but they are old "style".

You could buy a good 802.11N dual band wireless router, bridging your Cisco, and get better coverage and dual band (if you have a 5GHz device). If you do not, it may not be worth the extra cost and you could go with a 11N 2.4GHz router.

If you have 8,000 baht, you could get, say, an ASUS RT-AC68U dual band wireless 1900 gigabit router (802.11ac spec, the newest and bestest).

I got a Belkin N600 wireless router, bridged my Cisco cable modem, and get 130Mbps links. It makes me feel good even though all that reflects is my router to device speed. The modem is still only providing the 15+Mbps that I am paying for.

When I travel, I never more than 54Mbps in hotels, for example, showing they are using the 11g routers. But they have boosters/repeater strategically placed so the coverage is usually very good (in the better hotels).

[Pib]

I really don't think you can buy a cable modem/router from a third party (i.e., local store or online buy) that will work on the True cable/DOCSIS system as they are married together via various means (MAC, Serial number, etc)...similar to how True TV receivers are now married via the box itself and the subscription card (not to imply a cable modem uses a subscription card). I don't remember ever seeing a post on ThaiVisa where someone has bought a non-True provide cable modem and got it to work since True will not allow it to be married to their system unless it's a True-issued cable modem. Sure, you could buy one but getting it operational on the True system is probably not going to occur....of course their are always exceptions you hear about in Thailand.

I too got a Cisco DPC/EPC2325 issued by True when I first signed up years ago and initially started on their 20Mb/2Mb plan (they didn't have the 15Mb/1.5Mb plan at that time) and that Cisco model worked fine, but it developed a "upload speed" problem after about 18 months...the upload speed would top out at around 1.3Mb vs the 2Mb is was suppose to do and had been easily doing. Turns out the problem was caused by a system-wide software upgrade True had done to its DOCSIS system and some of the Cisco models wouldn't work properly. They troubleshoot my problem for around 3 days with different technicians coming to my house with two other Cisco modems and each one displayed the upload speed limitation problem. And one of the Cisco modems they tested was coded for a 100Mb/10Mb subscription and I personally saw it pull a 105Mb/10.4Mb speed...but that was via a ethernet connection and not via Wifi. The True techs were really scratching their head on my problem and they said their main engineers were even looking at my problem. But about then apparently lots of other people started calling in with upload problems. That's when True narrowed it down to a Cisco firmware problem on certain Cisco models by serial number range in dealing with the new system-wide upgrade True had just done days earlier. They bought out two Thomson modems/routers, hooked them to my connection and problem fixed....they brought two just for their own testing purposes...then they left one with me for replacement of the Cisco modem...that Thomson is still the one I have but now it just serving as "modem" only to feed my new Asus Wifi router.

I really like this Asus router shown at this Asus Link. As mentioned in my earlier post you can pick them up in local stores for around Bt2,000 like where I bought mine. InvadeIT computer in Hua Hin which you hear quite a few people talk about to order stuff online carries them also...here's there Link. Their price is Bt1,990 and since InvadeIT prices are pretty much the going retail price at the time a person might be able to find them for a little less in some stores.

Edited February 24, 2014 by Pib

[muratremix]

I also want to buy a motorola surfboard modem from ebay but I hesitate it may not work with True online, even with mac address change.

My Thomson docsis 3.0 modem works fine, wifi is great (but it is disabled as I use it with asus rt-n66u) but no bridging mode, so I route traffic via STATIC IP / DMZ option to asus, which works fine.

[noise]

Seismic -- sorry for deviating from your original post here, but...the router Pip linked to looks good. My Belkin N600 has not external pole antenna and I am not happy with the coverage. I might just go look for that one, also.

Pib -- you are probably 100% correct. I was really just guessing based on using two of my own ADSL modem routers vice the one TOT would have provided. And your comments about the True system upgrade and the impact on the Cisco modem may explain a problem I had where, after the honeymoon period when True flooded me, my PC LAN into the Belkin router was only getting 12/1 Mbps to BKK but when I moved the LAN back to the Cisco modem I would get 15+/1.5+ routinely, even to the U.S. The technician that came to the house had no idea why; maybe he didn't know.

Never the less, may I offer this PCWorld article titled "Ditch your ISP's modem..." and these quotes (a friend just sent this reference to me as I was writting the): "you may have to call your ISP and provide the modem’s MAC address to activate your Internet connection. You can usually find your modem’s MAC address printed as a twelve-digit number on the back of the modem itself, usually with a prefix like MAC or CABLE MAC. If you bought a gateway or a modem/router combo, you’ll also have to set up your new wireless network before you can connect your devices and start enjoying your sweet new bandwidth. "

Before you hit the streets to start shopping for a modem, check your ISP’s terms regarding the use of customer-owned modems and see if it supplies a list of recommended or approved models. Many ISPs (like Comcast, Time Warner, Cox, and AT&T) even offer this information on their websites. Some give just a simple list, while others recommend specific models for the different speed packages they offer.

If you have a cable Internet connection, the biggest spec to compare when shopping for a modem is the version of DOCSIS standard it supports. Some cable ISPs currently support DOCSIS 2.0, and are (or will be) upgrading their infrastructure to DOCSIS 3.0 to provide faster speeds and better performance, especially if you subscribe to their higher-speed packages. You can call your ISP to see which DOCSIS version it supports. Even if your ISP is still on 2.0, you probably want to prepare for the future and upgrade to a modem that supports DOCSIS 3.0, like the Motorola SURFboard SB6141 or the Zoom 5341.

[Pib]

I hear you about what the PC World article says but its probably talking about ISP's in general in the U.S. I just don't think TrueOnline allows a non-True issued cable modem to be used on their DOCSIS system...I"ve seen a few posts over the years by people who called and asked...and were told No you can't. Plus, I expect ISP would only allowed cable modem on their system that they issue have few trouble calls...none of those calls asking for help in getting their modem to work on the DOCSIS system which is also running on the same cable that TrueVisions cable TV is running on. True is just trying to maintain some configuration control with its DOCSIS system all the way to within the customer's residence.

But give them a call to find out...heck, regardless of what results from the first call, make a second call the next day to get another rep and see what that rep's answer is. Personally, I would just use the True-issued modem/router which comes free or at a low cost (my initial Cisco one cost me Bt1000 I think years back when I switched to True DOCSIS...and all/any replacements you need will be free), just use it as a modem (disable the Wifi to have one less unneeded signal in your residence), hook your Wifi router WAN port to a modem LAN port, and go for it.

By the way, I see the True cable 15Mb/1.5Mb DOCSIS plan now costs Bt899/mo....when I switched to their 14Mb/1.4Mb plan almost two years ago I only paid (Bt699/mo) and sometime over the last year or so they automatically upgraded me to the 15Mb/1.5Mb plan at the same price/Bt699. They no longer have the 14Mb/1.4Mb plan. But I see they still charge Bt1,299/mo for their 20Mb/2Mb which I use to be on...but downgraded to the 14Mb/1.4Mb plan along with a big cost savings...and I didn't notice any difference in international speed nor domestic speed....well, there may have been few domestic sites that possibly loaded a few percent faster but it really wasn't significant/blink of the eye type faster...definitely not worth paying Bt1,299/mo in comparison to Bt699/mo. Best downgrade I ever did.

[Dork]

I tried to make use of my own Motorola cable modem with TRUE DOCSIS because it was important to me that I could put the modem in bridge mode to another router and the only Cable modem/gateways they had in stock at that time were the Thomson models which don't support bridge mode.

Despite many calls by my office staff to TRUE they were adamant that under no circumstances do they allow any non-TRUE supplied modems to be connected. Eventually my harassing them about this caused them "find" a Cisco which does support bridge mode so that's what I got and in the event I'm perfectly happy with it.

According to the technician that did the installation, cloning the MAC address of the TRUE supplied modem won't work either. The modem needs to be provisioned at TRUE's network centre and they will know that it has been changed.

If anyone here still wants to try they can have my Motorola for free.

[Seismic]

Just hook a ethernet output port from your True router to the Asus WAN input, a little bit of setup, and you are good to go. Would also recommend you then disable the Wifi radio on the True Wifi router to prevent any possible interference from that signal since you won't need that signal any more.

Sent from my Onda V971 tablet

I bought an Asus RT-N12HP from Invadeit.

OK the Asus router has a blue WAN input port and 4 yellow LAN ports. The True Cable Modem has 4 yellow LAN ports, currently one is hooked up to my Desktop.

So I leave the connection to my desktop plugged in and use one of the three other ports to connect to the Blue WAN port on the ASUS, turn it on and then I need an IP address to access the setup ???. Not sure what to do after this Pib.

[Dork]

Just hook a ethernet output port from your True router to the Asus WAN input, a little bit of setup, and you are good to go. Would also recommend you then disable the Wifi radio on the True Wifi router to prevent any possible interference from that signal since you won't need that signal any more.

Sent from my Onda V971 tablet

I bought an Asus RT-N12HP from Invadeit.

OK the Asus router has a blue WAN input port and 4 yellow LAN ports. The True Cable Modem has 4 yellow LAN ports, currently one is hooked up to my Desktop.

So I leave the connection to my desktop plugged in and use one of the three other ports to connect to the Blue WAN port on the ASUS, turn it on and then I need an IP address to access the setup ???. Not sure what to do after this Pib.

Firstly you need to put the Cisco cable modem into bridge mode which from memory you do by holding the reset button for a few seconds. That will toggle between bridge mode and normal mode. That will change the Cisco's IP address to 192.168.100.1 but there is nothing to configure on the Cisco anyway.

Then put a patch cable from the WAN port on the Asus to any of the LAN ports on the cisco. In the Asus setup you choose DHCP (or they might call it Automatic) as the internet connection type.

That's pretty much it. From then on all connections need to go through the Asus. Nothing else should be plugged into the Cisco.

[muratremix]

Just hook a ethernet output port from your True router to the Asus WAN input, a little bit of setup, and you are good to go. Would also recommend you then disable the Wifi radio on the True Wifi router to prevent any possible interference from that signal since you won't need that signal any more.

Sent from my Onda V971 tablet

I bought an Asus RT-N12HP from Invadeit.

OK the Asus router has a blue WAN input port and 4 yellow LAN ports. The True Cable Modem has 4 yellow LAN ports, currently one is hooked up to my Desktop.

So I leave the connection to my desktop plugged in and use one of the three other ports to connect to the Blue WAN port on the ASUS, turn it on and then I need an IP address to access the setup ???. Not sure what to do after this Pib.

Firstly you need to put the Cisco cable modem into bridge mode which from memory you do by holding the reset button for a few seconds. That will toggle between bridge mode and normal mode. That will change the Cisco's IP address to 192.168.100.1 but there is nothing to configure on the Cisco anyway.

Then put a patch cable from the WAN port on the Asus to any of the LAN ports on the cisco. In the Asus setup you choose DHCP (or they might call it Automatic) as the internet connection type.

That's pretty much it. From then on all connections need to go through the Asus. Nothing else should be plugged into the Cisco.

Any way to put thomson into bridge mode? Thomson docsis 3.0 modem.

[Dork]

Any way to put thomson into bridge mode? Thomson docsis 3.0 modem.

Unfortunately I don't think so. I studied that before I had DOCSIS installed because at that time TRUE said that the Thomson was the only modem in stock. I had to pester them quite a bit before they found a Cisco. I need bridge mode because of some router functions not available on standard units.

Perhaps you could do the same. Or maybe TRUE have stock of the Cisco's now.

Edited March 5, 2014 by Dork

[HooHaa]

you may be able to get away by just turning off wireless on the cisco and running an Ethernet cable from the Cisco to the Ausus and accessing the ausus. that is if you only really need basic wireless and don't want to do anything specific.

the n55 u is a great router and you should be able to just plug it in.

I run a second router in this way off my thompson and use it for devices that are not n compatible.

Edited March 5, 2014 by HooHaa

[muratremix]

Any way to put thomson into bridge mode? Thomson docsis 3.0 modem.

Unfortunately I don't think so. I studied that before I had DOCSIS installed because at that time TRUE said that the Thomson was the only modem in stock. I had to pester them quite a bit before they found a Cisco. I need bridge mode because of some router functions not available on standard units.

Perhaps you could do the same. Or maybe TRUE have stock of the Cisco's now.

I don't want to exchange docsis 3 modem with docsis 2 modem. Right now I use static ip / DMZ method and works great (no double nat).

But having bridge option would be cool.

[Seismic]

Just hook a ethernet output port from your True router to the Asus WAN input, a little bit of setup, and you are good to go. Would also recommend you then disable the Wifi radio on the True Wifi router to prevent any possible interference from that signal since you won't need that signal any more.

Sent from my Onda V971 tablet

I bought an Asus RT-N12HP from Invadeit.

OK the Asus router has a blue WAN input port and 4 yellow LAN ports. The True Cable Modem has 4 yellow LAN ports, currently one is hooked up to my Desktop.

So I leave the connection to my desktop plugged in and use one of the three other ports to connect to the Blue WAN port on the ASUS, turn it on and then I need an IP address to access the setup ???. Not sure what to do after this Pib.

Firstly you need to put the Cisco cable modem into bridge mode which from memory you do by holding the reset button for a few seconds. That will toggle between bridge mode and normal mode. That will change the Cisco's IP address to 192.168.100.1 but there is nothing to configure on the Cisco anyway.

Then put a patch cable from the WAN port on the Asus to any of the LAN ports on the cisco. In the Asus setup you choose DHCP (or they might call it Automatic) as the internet connection type.

That's pretty much it. From then on all connections need to go through the Asus. Nothing else should be plugged into the Cisco.

OK, so the desktop computer will be plugged directly into the Asus??, or still plugged into the Cisco ?, Everything else in the house should just access wifi on the Asus also. What about password/username on the Cisco, I guess there is nothing for that?.

Edited March 5, 2014 by Seismic

[Dork]

Any way to put thomson into bridge mode? Thomson docsis 3.0 modem.

Unfortunately I don't think so. I studied that before I had DOCSIS installed because at that time TRUE said that the Thomson was the only modem in stock. I had to pester them quite a bit before they found a Cisco. I need bridge mode because of some router functions not available on standard units.

Perhaps you could do the same. Or maybe TRUE have stock of the Cisco's now.

I don't want to exchange docsis 3 modem with docsis 2 modem. Right now I use static ip / DMZ method and works great (no double nat).

But having bridge option would be cool.

My TRUE supplied Cisco (can't remember the model no.) is DOCSIS 3. So is the EPC3825

[Dork]

Just hook a ethernet output port from your True router to the Asus WAN input, a little bit of setup, and you are good to go. Would also recommend you then disable the Wifi radio on the True Wifi router to prevent any possible interference from that signal since you won't need that signal any more.

Sent from my Onda V971 tablet

I bought an Asus RT-N12HP from Invadeit.

OK the Asus router has a blue WAN input port and 4 yellow LAN ports. The True Cable Modem has 4 yellow LAN ports, currently one is hooked up to my Desktop.

So I leave the connection to my desktop plugged in and use one of the three other ports to connect to the Blue WAN port on the ASUS, turn it on and then I need an IP address to access the setup ???. Not sure what to do after this Pib.

Firstly you need to put the Cisco cable modem into bridge mode which from memory you do by holding the reset button for a few seconds. That will toggle between bridge mode and normal mode. That will change the Cisco's IP address to 192.168.100.1 but there is nothing to configure on the Cisco anyway.

Then put a patch cable from the WAN port on the Asus to any of the LAN ports on the cisco. In the Asus setup you choose DHCP (or they might call it Automatic) as the internet connection type.

That's pretty much it. From then on all connections need to go through the Asus. Nothing else should be plugged into the Cisco.

OK, so the desktop computer will be plugged directly into the Asus??, or still plugged into the Cisco ?, Everything else in the house should just access wifi on the Asus also. What about password/username on the Cisco, I guess there is nothing for that?.

Yes everything will connect to the ASUS, not the Cisco.

In bridge mode there is literally nothing to configure on the Cisco so no username/password necessary. Probably it's admin/admin anyway.

[Pib]

Just hook a ethernet output port from your True router to the Asus WAN input, a little bit of setup, and you are good to go. Would also recommend you then disable the Wifi radio on the True Wifi router to prevent any possible interference from that signal since you won't need that signal any more.

Sent from my Onda V971 tablet

I bought an Asus RT-N12HP from Invadeit.

OK the Asus router has a blue WAN input port and 4 yellow LAN ports. The True Cable Modem has 4 yellow LAN ports, currently one is hooked up to my Desktop.

So I leave the connection to my desktop plugged in and use one of the three other ports to connect to the Blue WAN port on the ASUS, turn it on and then I need an IP address to access the setup ???. Not sure what to do after this Pib.

Hook one of the Cisco LAN ports to the Asus WAN port. Now you need to unhook your desktop from the Cisco LAN port and then connect to a Asus LAN port. In fact, unhook your desktop from the Cisco port "before" hooking the Asus router to the Cisco router.

This should automatically make a web-based screen start-up where the Asus router begins it's setup which takes you into the Asus firmware/BIOS setup menu where you can set logon password, SSID broadcast mode (i.e. WPA2, etc), Wifi transmission setup, etc. No need to set the Cisco to Bridge mode if you can...on my True-provided Thomson Wifi router/modem I can't set it to bridge mode. Anyway, the IP address to the Asus router automatically set itself to 192.168.2.1.

And I can still access my Thomson router via 192.168.1.1 to change settings, turn the radio back on, etc. I had one VOIP adapter hooked to the Thomson router and I left it hooked up...but I did deactivate the Thomson Wifi radio since that would just be one signal blasting out that could cause interference and possibly someone to tap into if they figured out the WPA2 password.

Setup was super easy and fast....the Asus router has been working fine and definitely blasts out a strong & steady signal...it's upstairs...my laptop is downstairs and I get 5 of 5 bars signal strength.

[Dork]

Just hook a ethernet output port from your True router to the Asus WAN input, a little bit of setup, and you are good to go. Would also recommend you then disable the Wifi radio on the True Wifi router to prevent any possible interference from that signal since you won't need that signal any more.

Sent from my Onda V971 tablet

I bought an Asus RT-N12HP from Invadeit.

OK the Asus router has a blue WAN input port and 4 yellow LAN ports. The True Cable Modem has 4 yellow LAN ports, currently one is hooked up to my Desktop.

So I leave the connection to my desktop plugged in and use one of the three other ports to connect to the Blue WAN port on the ASUS, turn it on and then I need an IP address to access the setup ???. Not sure what to do after this Pib.

Hook one of the Cisco LAN ports to the Asus WAN port. Now you need to unhook your desktop from the Cisco LAN port and then connect to a Asus LAN port. In fact, unhook your desktop from the Cisco port "before" hooking the Asus router to the Cisco router.

This should automatically make a web-based screen start-up where the Asus router begins it's setup which takes you into the Asus firmware/BIOS setup menu where you can set logon password, SSID broadcast mode (i.e. WPA2, etc), Wifi transmission setup, etc. No need to set the Cisco to Bridge mode if you can...on my True-provided Thomson Wifi router/modem I can't set it to bridge mode. Anyway, the IP address to the Asus router automatically set itself to 192.168.2.1.

And I can still access my Thomson router via 192.168.1.1 to change settings, turn the radio back on, etc. I had one VOIP adapter hooked to the Thomson router and I left it hooked up...but I did deactivate the Thomson Wifi radio since that would just be one signal blasting out that could cause interference and possibly someone to tap into if they figured out the WPA2 password.

Setup was super easy and fast....the Asus router has been working fine and definitely blasts out a strong & steady signal...it's upstairs...my laptop is downstairs and I get 5 of 5 bars signal strength.

This configuration will cause double NAT though.

[muratremix]

Just hook a ethernet output port from your True router to the Asus WAN input, a little bit of setup, and you are good to go. Would also recommend you then disable the Wifi radio on the True Wifi router to prevent any possible interference from that signal since you won't need that signal any more.

Sent from my Onda V971 tablet

I bought an Asus RT-N12HP from Invadeit.

OK the Asus router has a blue WAN input port and 4 yellow LAN ports. The True Cable Modem has 4 yellow LAN ports, currently one is hooked up to my Desktop.

So I leave the connection to my desktop plugged in and use one of the three other ports to connect to the Blue WAN port on the ASUS, turn it on and then I need an IP address to access the setup ???. Not sure what to do after this Pib.

Hook one of the Cisco LAN ports to the Asus WAN port. Now you need to unhook your desktop from the Cisco LAN port and then connect to a Asus LAN port. In fact, unhook your desktop from the Cisco port "before" hooking the Asus router to the Cisco router.

This should automatically make a web-based screen start-up where the Asus router begins it's setup which takes you into the Asus firmware/BIOS setup menu where you can set logon password, SSID broadcast mode (i.e. WPA2, etc), Wifi transmission setup, etc. No need to set the Cisco to Bridge mode if you can...on my True-provided Thomson Wifi router/modem I can't set it to bridge mode. Anyway, the IP address to the Asus router automatically set itself to 192.168.2.1.

And I can still access my Thomson router via 192.168.1.1 to change settings, turn the radio back on, etc. I had one VOIP adapter hooked to the Thomson router and I left it hooked up...but I did deactivate the Thomson Wifi radio since that would just be one signal blasting out that could cause interference and possibly someone to tap into if they figured out the WPA2 password.

Setup was super easy and fast....the Asus router has been working fine and definitely blasts out a strong & steady signal...it's upstairs...my laptop is downstairs and I get 5 of 5 bars signal strength.

This configuration will cause double NAT though.

No double nat when you DMZ from cable modem to wifi router and disable all firewall on cable modem side.

my wifi router (asus) routes everything to cable modem and cable modem provides gateway.

This is the only way to get around double nat problem.

[Pib]

I know NAT problems can occur with VOIP devices but after using my current configuration for a week or so I've had zero problems in browsing, emailing, file downloads, etc. All I have is a faster, stronger, completely stable Wifi connection.

Sent from my Onda V971 tablet

[Pib]

As FYI, since my Asus RT-N12HP can be easily set to three different modes of Wifi Router mode, Repeater mode, or Access Point (AP) with a single click in the firmware. This afternoon I switched it from router mode to AP mode.

To quote from the ASUS fimrware page also shown below by selecting AP mode, "...the RT-N12 connects to a wireless router through an Ethernet cable to extend the wireless signal coverage to other network clients. In this mode, the firewall, IP sharing, and NAT functions are disabled by default." Or said another way, connect a LAN output from your router/modem (like the True-issued Thomson router I have that can not be set to bridge mode) to the WAN input of the RT-N12 and the RT-N12 will take care of all the NAT, Firewall, etc., settings required.

As mentioned in my other post, although I have had zero problems (including no double NAT or firewall problems) for the week or so I have had the router and been operating it in Router Mode, I figured I would check out he AP mode...see how easy (or hard) it was to switch. Well, it was super easy, took about 10 seconds to switch from Router mode to AP mode. This is such a nice Wifi router...made for dummies which is what I need.

[Seismic]

As FYI, since my Asus RT-N12HP can be easily set to three different modes of Wifi Router mode, Repeater mode, or Access Point (AP) with a single click in the firmware. This afternoon I switched it from router mode to AP mode.

To quote from the ASUS fimrware page also shown below by selecting AP mode, "...the RT-N12 connects to a wireless router through an Ethernet cable to extend the wireless signal coverage to other network clients. In this mode, the firewall, IP sharing, and NAT functions are disabled by default." Or said another way, connect a LAN output from your router/modem (like the True-issued Thomson router I have that can not be set to bridge mode) to the WAN input of the RT-N12 and the RT-N12 will take care of all the NAT, Firewall, etc., settings required.

As mentioned in my other post, although I have had zero problems (including no double NAT or firewall problems) for the week or so I have had the router and been operating it in Router Mode, I figured I would check out he AP mode...see how easy (or hard) it was to switch. Well, it was super easy, took about 10 seconds to switch from Router mode to AP mode. This is such a nice Wifi router...made for dummies which is what I need.

Interesting, I hooked everything up and it worked right off the bat, without setting the Cisco to bridge mode. I then tried to change the Asus to AP mode, it came back with a message that it had changed the IP address... but I dont know what to ??, had to run through a bunch of IP addresses before I got it.

So right now I have the asus in AP mode running the WiFi, The Cisco is still in normal (not Bridged) mode with the Wifi Network turned off, and everything seems to be running fine.

thanks for all the help/suggestions.

Edited March 7, 2014 by Seismic

[Seismic]

I guess the next question would be Should I keep it in AP mode, or is it OK to switch back to Router mode, as it appeared to be working fine in that mode also.

[Pib]

I guess the next question would be Should I keep it in AP mode, or is it OK to switch back to Router mode, as it appeared to be working fine in that mode also.

I would leave it in AP mode just to avoid the possibility of double NAT, double firwewall, competing IP address issues, etc. Right now your Cisco has control of the NAT, Firewall, issuing IP addresses....it's not competing with the ASUS which may have tried to do the same thing in Router mode.

Regarding the IP address change you mentioned, when I first hooked my ASUS up within seconds of its web setup interface automatically starting up it said it detected a network conflict and it resolved that itself by changing its basic network address from the default of 192.168.1.1 (which is common for routers and what my Thomson's uses and probably your Cisco also...it's whatever IP address you use to access the router setup menu) to 192.168.2.1. The conflict was automatically fixed by changing the ASUS default IP address from 192.168.1.1 to 192.168.2.1...now the two routers have completely different base IP network addresses.

Once the ASUS selected this new basic network address of 192.168.2.1 it was rocking and rolling...I changed the logon password, setup the encryption to WPA2, and Channel Width to 40Mhz and I was off to the races. Channel width 40MHz will give you higher Wifi throughput than 20Mhz. To access the ASUS I would enter web address 192.168.2.1 and right into the setup menu I would go after enter the User ID/password.

Now when switching to AP mode you are removing any NAT, firewall, IP address issuing possible conflicts by shutting down those functions in the ASUS and letting your other router (my Thomson, your Cisco) handle all of that...and during that process the ASUS's basic network address will change from the 192.168.2.1 (or whatever yours setup to initiially) to a DHCP IP address issued from the other router....basically the ASUS is acting just like a client device now and other devices that connect to it will get their IP address from the other router (your Cisco router).

So, to access the ASUS setup menu now you must know what IP address was issued to it by your Cisco router. During the ASUS setup there was a welink provided which would download a small ASUS program called "Discovery" that you can run on your computer any time to see what the IP address is for the ASUS router since it is an DHCP issued IP address that may change occasionally. When (if) it changes your ASUS switches to it automatically and any devices hooking to the internet through the ASUS also get issued new IP addresses automatically. However, the weblink you had setup to reach the its setup menu may not work anymore because remember the weblink is nothing more than an IP address....so, you need to update the link to the new IP address. That little Discovery program will show you what the ASUS IP address is which allows you to update your weblink. Here's the link which will download that Discovery utility.

[Seismic]

Thanks Pib, it was the second dynamic IP address that gave me problems. Other than that everything is fine.

regards

Seismic