STUD WALLS - Electrical outlet installation

[PETERTHEEATER]

Probably one for Crossy.

I'm building internal stud walls (timber frames 4 x 2) clad with plywood. I plan to run electric wire through conduit from top down to power socket(or light switch)level.The conduit will be threaded through holes drilled through the studs.

My electrician plans to put the outlet sockets directly over cut-outs in the 10mm ply wall covering at points were there is a doubler so total thickness is 20mm.

My main concern is safety so does any one have any tips to share on this practice?

[wayned]

You can run sheathed wire, Romex in the US, in studded walls without using conduit. You can buy plastic boxes and attach them directly to the studs where you want to mount your switches and sockets. Mount them so that they overhang the stud by the thickness of the wall covering. Drill 1/2 inch holes threw the top plate to drop the wire down and if you have more than on socket box in a wall 3/8" holes can be drilled through the studs to run the wire through to the next socket box, daisy chained.

Measure and cut holes in the wall covering and fit it over the boxes. Wire the boxes and install the cover plates. You can buy boxes with the nails attached and cover plates that will cover the cutouts as long as you do a good job of measuring and cutting the holes in the wall covering. This is the standard type of installation in the US where most of the houses and frame construction, either wood or metal. You have to get it right the first time as changing or adding circuits after the wall is covered is a bitch without conduit!

[Crossy]

I think wayned has it covered, plenty of romex-like flexible cables (get 3 core of course) and daisy-chain the outlets.

That sounds like one beast of a stud wall, you sure you need it that robust? What about termites? Why not steel studs and gypsum? (you won't be able to use romex without protection where it passes through the studs mind).

[wayned]

Crossy,

In the US standard stud walls are built with 2 x 4s (actually a little smaller, but called 2x4, not 4x2). The wall studs are normally sold pre-cut to 95 5/8 inches so that the ceiling height is 8' with a single bottom and double top plate. Since most of the houses are frame construction, either wood or galvanized metal, and the exterior walls and one or more of the interior walls are load bearing they are built on 16 inch centers. 2 x 6 is used for ceiling and floor joists and rafters with the ceiling and rafters at 24 inch centers and the floor joist at 16 inch centers.

Three are very few junction boxes used as the wiring is daisy chained and goes down the wall to the socket and either threw the wall or back up and down to the next socket. Usually the whole house is wired with 3 wire, 12 gauge, Romex and not smaller wire for lights as the entire room is normally on one breaker. Many rooms do not have ceiling light fixtures, they have one or two switchable outlets for plug in lamps. Of course larger wire is used where required. The wires are not attached to the studs or ceiling/floor joist and remain free if modification is required but after the wall is closed it's a bitch to add to or modify an existing installation.

[wayned]

Woops! Should be 92 5/8 not 95 5/8! The electric went off, as it does at least once a day, in the middle of my edit and just came back on!

[PETERTHEEATER]

Thanks for the responses. I shall probably put the 'Romex' cable into conduit anyway since it needs anti-fret protection at the points where it passes through the studs.

Crossy (Post 2)- The main structure is a Thai style house off the ground on king posts attached to a concrete ground frame connecting all posts. The base of each post was treated (anti-termite) before bedding and the overall ground slab has been drilled and pressure treated. The posts are all solid hardwood. Structures like this eat up expensive hardwoods and we have reached the stage where I am just about out of useable timber. Ninety five percent of the structure is recycled hardwood from old houses. The internal non-load bearing walls stud frame are ply faced because Iv'e run out of timber and the remaining budget wont stretch to built-up timber walls. After sheeting. the wall faces are decorated with chamfered jointed ply strips in a geometric pattern to give a panelled effect. I wanted wainscoting with gypsum (sheetrock) above with some timber framing but, she who must be obeyed, wanted full panelling. Just completed one room today and even un-finished (it will be stained teak) it looks very good. Now I can mark the electrical points and run the conduits before cladding the other face of the wall. The external walls are all builtup hardwood panels between posts so electrical points will be surface mounted but concealed where possible.

[IMHO]

Thanks for the responses. I shall probably put the 'Romex' cable into conduit anyway since it needs anti-fret protection at the points where it passes through the studs.

In Thailand, "romex" is called: VAF (Vee A Eff)

[faranginafrica]

Why did you choose stud over blockwork? Just wondering... one more painful trade onsite....

Like Africa, most houses are RC framed?#

I always say get those XXXXXXX pedreiros out once structure in built (ie the cement based workers)....

All they do is trash the structure: get it rendered and be done with them....

OK you have tilers to deal with later.... but that can be supervised more one on one....

Edited September 19, 2014 by faranginafrica

[PETERTHEEATER]

This is the structure:

An interior panelled wall (unfinished):

Edited September 20, 2014 by PETERTHEEATER

[Crossy]

Gorgeous ^^^.