Any product that will stop leak at water pipe join?

[giddyup]

Had a guy in yesterday to fix a leak in a water pipe where it comes out of the ground and up a wall to a tap. The pipe had to have a couple of right angle bends to fit the contour of the wall and I can still see water weeping out of one of the joins. As the guy has already been paid I doubt whether he'll come back and fix his work, so is there a compound/paste/liquid I can paint over the join to stop the water leaking, or does it all need to be pulled apart and started again?

[petermik]

Yes is the simple answer-obviously a joint has not been glued properly and quite simple to fix

[KhunBENQ]

out of one of the joins

Be happy if is only one.

PVC pipes and "glued" joints I assume?

Cut and rebuild the leaking part is the only version that I know.

Does not make it look nicer

I have learned to do that stuff on my own.

Wish there was a feasible repair paste.

If you fancy put pictures here.

Edited September 24, 2015 by KhunBENQ

[giddyup]

Here's a pic of the joint in question. The leak is weeping out of the top joint, if it can't be sealed in some way it means removing the cement, cutting the pipe and starting again.

[petermik]

Go for it simple fix honestly.

[KhunBENQ]

Instead of burying the joint in cement I would lift the joints, so that all is on top of the concrete.

If you feel it necessary (risk of tearing), the pipe(s) can be fixed with clamp(s) (?):

Remove the cement and do not replace before everything is fixed and dry (leak free).

Edited September 24, 2015 by KhunBENQ

[Crossy]

Why the heck didn't he put the double bend 2" higher and avoid cementing in the pipe?

I would dig the lot out and re-do it in a more logical manner.

You may be able to wriggle the top joint out if you take the tap off the wall (depends just how much glue is actually on it) and re do the joint properly, but my money is on just ripping it all out and doing it right.

[KhunBENQ]

My idead in better words.

As you see farang logic is always different from Thai logic

[kamalabob2]

I've had a few bathroom fitted out in Thailand. It was a steep learning curve for me on which Pipe Joint Compound was worthwhile in Buriram province. I would no longer buy Advance solvent welding cement or P S Lion Special Cement for PVC. I did use Thai Pipe brand Solvent Welding Cements for UPVC Pipe & Fitting when I installed new UPVC rain gutters in Buriram province. However for any water pipes, both hot or cold I highly recommend the Permatex Pipe Joint Compound number 51 in the white can. It is made in the USA and I have had ZERO leaks when using this commonly available product. It is widely available at Builders merchants Stores in Buriram and I suspect in other provinces of Thailand. It is similar in price to Elephant brand pipe glue that I see at the Buriram Home Mart when I bought it at a family owned builders merchants store in Buriram. The label is all in English on this white can.

[wayned]

I bought a two part epoxy putty called Aqua Putty at home pro. I used it to stop a leak in the output pipe from my water tank and a leak in a drain pipe. It's specifically made to be able to be applied to "wet" areas and is similar to that used to repair leaks in small boats while they are still in the water. You could apply a generous amount around the leaking joint and shape it.It looks like concrete when it drys.

Google Aqua Putty as it will not let me attach a picture here.

[giddyup]

Why the heck didn't he put the double bend 2" higher and avoid cementing in the pipe?

I would dig the lot out and re-do it in a more logical manner.

You may be able to wriggle the top joint out if you take the tap off the wall (depends just how much glue is actually on it) and re do the joint properly, but my money is on just ripping it all out and doing it right.

That was my suggestion before he even started the job, but you know the Thais, nobody can tell them anything. I even said if the pipe leaks you are going to have to break out that cement again. I might add that originally the pipe was cut into that ledge, but when he cut the pipe he had to make the cut deeper as he's shortened the pipe.

Edited September 24, 2015 by giddyup

[giddyup]

These joints are NOT glued.......A solution melts the plastic together. That is a ten minute job to cut out and make new joints.

Where are you...?

Pattaya, dark side.

[giddyup]

I bought a two part epoxy putty called Aqua Putty at home pro. I used it to stop a leak in the output pipe from my water tank and a leak in a drain pipe. It's specifically made to be able to be applied to "wet" areas and is similar to that used to repair leaks in small boats while they are still in the water. You could apply a generous amount around the leaking joint and shape it.It looks like concrete when it drys.

Google Aqua Putty as it will not let me attach a picture here.

Worth a try, but I think I'm going to cut the pipe and start over. I should have done the job myself from the get-go but I was just being lazy.

[sandyf]

I bought a two part epoxy putty called Aqua Putty at home pro. I used it to stop a leak in the output pipe from my water tank and a leak in a drain pipe. It's specifically made to be able to be applied to "wet" areas and is similar to that used to repair leaks in small boats while they are still in the water. You could apply a generous amount around the leaking joint and shape it.It looks like concrete when it drys.

Google Aqua Putty as it will not let me attach a picture here.

Worth a try, but I think I'm going to cut the pipe and start over. I should have done the job myself from the get-go but I was just being lazy.

I have used that wet epoxy putty quite a lot and it works very well. You should try that before cutting the pipe. Cutting the pipe will take you closer to the floor and may become a problem in the future.

[IMHO]

I'm with Crossy - working from the ground up, cut the pipe below the first elbow and put a straight connector in, then put in a new section with two elbows that stay outside the cement. Even better, use two 45 degree elbows, so there's less pressure on the joints. And glue them properly.

[IMHO]

I've had a few bathroom fitted out in Thailand. It was a steep learning curve for me on which Pipe Joint Compound was worthwhile in Buriram province. I would no longer buy Advance solvent welding cement or P S Lion Special Cement for PVC. I did use Thai Pipe brand Solvent Welding Cements for UPVC Pipe & Fitting when I installed new UPVC rain gutters in Buriram province. However for any water pipes, both hot or cold I highly recommend the Permatex Pipe Joint Compound number 51 in the white can. It is made in the USA and I have had ZERO leaks when using this commonly available product. It is widely available at Builders merchants Stores in Buriram and I suspect in other provinces of Thailand. It is similar in price to Elephant brand pipe glue that I see at the Buriram Home Mart when I bought it at a family owned builders merchants store in Buriram. The label is all in English on this white can.

The regular Tra Chang solvent in the white can with a green stripe is very good - but give it 30 mins to cure before turning on the water.

If cost is no object, and you just want the best solvent money can buy, the Tra Chang in the white can, with a blue stripe (labelled: high pressure), cures in 5 mins and not even a heat gun will undo it... It's normally only used for pools, but hey, if you're scared of leaks on normal tap pressure pipes, go for it

The high pressure (blue) formula is licensed from: http://www.henkel.com/

Edited September 24, 2015 by IMHO

[KhunBENQ]

These joints are NOT glued.......A solution melts the plastic together. That is a ten minute job to cut out and make new joints.

Where are you...?

Correct, but didn't want to puzzle the layman so I put it in quotes

Edited September 24, 2015 by KhunBENQ

[giddyup]

I bought a two part epoxy putty called Aqua Putty at home pro. I used it to stop a leak in the output pipe from my water tank and a leak in a drain pipe. It's specifically made to be able to be applied to "wet" areas and is similar to that used to repair leaks in small boats while they are still in the water. You could apply a generous amount around the leaking joint and shape it.It looks like concrete when it drys.

Google Aqua Putty as it will not let me attach a picture here.

Worth a try, but I think I'm going to cut the pipe and start over. I should have done the job myself from the get-go but I was just being lazy.

I have used that wet epoxy putty quite a lot and it works very well. You should try that before cutting the pipe. Cutting the pipe will take you closer to the floor and may become a problem in the future.

OK, you've sold me, I'll take a trip into Homeworks tomorrow. It's worth a try before cutting the pipe and starting again.

[bankruatsteve]

What is the water supply to the tap? If it's low pressure "city" supply you might get away with an external fix. Otherwise, I've never seen a leak fixed from the outside of pressurized pipe. Is the PVC painted? If so, I'm guessing the guy didn't sand off the paint before gluing the connection. I don't know how much epoxy costs, but a re-do of the PVC would just need a sleeve, 2 elbows, and say 20 cm of pipe and some glue which altogether shouldn't be more than about 40 baht.

[giddyup]

What is the water supply to the tap? If it's low pressure "city" supply you might get away with an external fix. Otherwise, I've never seen a leak fixed from the outside of pressurized pipe. Is the PVC painted? If so, I'm guessing the guy didn't sand off the paint before gluing the connection. I don't know how much epoxy costs, but a re-do of the PVC would just need a sleeve, 2 elbows, and say 20 cm of pipe and some glue which altogether shouldn't be more than about 40 baht.

It is city water, but the pressure can vary from fairly low to quite high, so maybe no epoxy is going to work, and it looks like you say, he didn't take off the paint first. Certainly didn't come with any sandpaper to smooth out the burrs or remove the paint.

[giddyup]

If paint is not removed you will not have a joint...It ain't glue, the solution melts the plastic to become 'one'..

I think this guy was a cowboy, he even had to borrow a hacksaw blade to cut the pipe. Lesson learned, if you want a job done well, do it yourself.

[giddyup]

What is the water supply to the tap? If it's low pressure "city" supply you might get away with an external fix. Otherwise, I've never seen a leak fixed from the outside of pressurized pipe. Is the PVC painted? If so, I'm guessing the guy didn't sand off the paint before gluing the connection. I don't know how much epoxy costs, but a re-do of the PVC would just need a sleeve, 2 elbows, and say 20 cm of pipe and some glue which altogether shouldn't be more than about 40 baht.

The water isn't spurting out only weeping, so the epoxy shouldn't be under much pressure.

[johng]

If the PVC is clean and the surface sanded a bit. I think epoxy would stick like £@it to a blanket.

[bankruatsteve]

What is the water supply to the tap? If it's low pressure "city" supply you might get away with an external fix. Otherwise, I've never seen a leak fixed from the outside of pressurized pipe. Is the PVC painted? If so, I'm guessing the guy didn't sand off the paint before gluing the connection. I don't know how much epoxy costs, but a re-do of the PVC would just need a sleeve, 2 elbows, and say 20 cm of pipe and some glue which altogether shouldn't be more than about 40 baht.

The water isn't spurting out only weeping, so the epoxy shouldn't be under much pressure.

You also said that the supply is sometimes higher pressure - then it will spurt. If you try the external patch, how would you vacate the water in the pipe? Don't even think about it - it's just not going to work.

[Rust Never Sleeps]

Anytime PVC pipes are encased in concrete they should be lagged with foam.

Concrete does expand and contract on a minute scale because of temperature fluctuations.

Concrete also shrinks during the curing process.

In regards to your problem, i would keep the pipe above the concrete as already suggest but also add that if using a clip,

leave a little play because judging from your photo, it appears concrete movement might have been a factor.

[giddyup]

Just an update guys. The guy came back an hour ago, cut the pipe again, but put the right angle joiners above the ledge as should have been done first time, so now I'm giving it 30 minutes for everything to dry before I turn the water back on. Fingers crossed.

[melvinmelvin]

There is a product on the market in LoS called Sikaflex.

If you don't want to cut the concrete and redo the thing I'd would have a go with Sikaflex.

Sikaflex comes in different flavours, glue, epoxy, silicone mixes and a few others. It is incredibly strong and 100% unaffected by water.

Have used it a lot in Europe, but I have also seen it in LoS, actually in Pattaya.

[bankruatsteve]

Just an update guys. The guy came back an hour ago, cut the pipe again, but put the right angle joiners above the ledge as should have been done first time, so now I'm giving it 30 minutes for everything to dry before I turn the water back on. Fingers crossed.

So, you had the same guy that couldn't do it right the first time do it again. That's funny.

[giddyup]

Just an update guys. The guy came back an hour ago, cut the pipe again, but put the right angle joiners above the ledge as should have been done first time, so now I'm giving it 30 minutes for everything to dry before I turn the water back on. Fingers crossed.

So, you had the same guy that couldn't do it right the first time do it again. That's funny.

He stuffed up, he corrected his mistakes. At least he had the decency to come back and do the job right.

[sandyf]

What is the water supply to the tap? If it's low pressure "city" supply you might get away with an external fix. Otherwise, I've never seen a leak fixed from the outside of pressurized pipe. Is the PVC painted? If so, I'm guessing the guy didn't sand off the paint before gluing the connection. I don't know how much epoxy costs, but a re-do of the PVC would just need a sleeve, 2 elbows, and say 20 cm of pipe and some glue which altogether shouldn't be more than about 40 baht.

The water isn't spurting out only weeping, so the epoxy shouldn't be under much pressure.

That crap will NOT seal.............

The voice of experience.

I regularly have to repair leaks on the water storage ongs at the pipe fitting on the tank body, works a treat. It is a chemical reaction so will set even when wet.

My sister in law has 3 very large water holding tanks made from concrete rings. They are quite old and prone to leaking through the walls. we use the half gallon tins of the 2 part putty to deal with that.