T-cut or similar..?

[cornishcarlos]

I know there was a thread on removing tar from wheel arches etc, can't find it now but sure a few people recommended WD40 ?

Next question, post removal, I would like to polish/wax the whole car. Which product is best to bring the paint work back up to standard. Plus, can I just buy cheap cloths to apply the product and is it worth getting a buffer for my drill to finish it all off ?

Never bothered to wax or polish a vehicle before

[IMHO]

Similar discussion going on over here:

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/859648-glasscoating-and-other-stuff-to-make-a-shiny-car/?p=9935917

[WarpSpeed]

WD-40.................................................................

[IMHO]

WD-40.................................................................

OP said:

Next question, post removal, I would like to polish/wax the whole car

Edited October 9, 2015 by IMHO

[meatboy]

one of the staff at home pro,when i explained what i wanted led me to the shelf with sandpaper on it.

[IMHO]

In answer to your question, yes, there are plenty of cutting compounds available...

If you're looking for something that can be hand applied, cut well, and finish out with just one step, I'd recommend the Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. It uses diminishing abrasives - so starts out as a heavy cut to quickly get rid of defects, but as you continue to work it, the abrasives in it diminish down to a high-polish grade. Don't mistake that as meaning it's easy work though

If you just want to correct small areas, it'a a great choice - but if you want to do the whole car, it's going to be a LOT of hard, hot, sweaty work.

If it is the whole car you want to do, you seriously should consider getting yourself a DA (Dual Action) polishing machine, and then using a two-step approach - first cut, second polish. Items 1-6 in my shopping list linked above are pretty hard to beat for value and effectiveness. Literally, they will give you what you need to get the car back to looking as-good-or-better than new - with 10's of litres less sweat

e.g.

1. Dual action polisher. This kit for 3390 Baht is a good enough for occasional DIY and includes the backing plate and polishing pads you'll need: http://diypolish.wel...2585534-th.html

2. Meguiars M105 8oz - 300 Baht - ultra cut compound (step 1)

3. Meguairs M205 8oz - 300 Baht - fine polishing compound (step 2)

4. CarPro Eraser 500ml - 590 Baht - used to clean the surface of all residues before applying glass (step 3) - only needed if glass coating.

6. 6x 3x Meguiars Supreme Shine microfobers - 780 390 Baht (I still prefer these over the "plush" ones) - only a 3-pack needed if not glass coating.

If you'd prefer to work with a wax, just ignore the talk below #6 about glass coatings and apply wax after the polishing step instead.

Edited October 9, 2015 by IMHO

[cornishcarlos]

In answer to your question, yes, there are plenty of cutting compounds available...

If you're looking for something that can be hand applied, cut well, and finish out with just one step, I'd recommend the Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. It uses diminishing abrasives - so starts out as a heavy cut to quickly get rid of defects, but as you continue to work it, the abrasives in it diminish down to a high-polish grade. Don't mistake that as meaning it's easy work though

If you just want to correct small areas, it'a a great choice - but if you want to do the whole car, it's going to be a LOT of hard, hot, sweaty work.

If it is the whole car you want to do, you seriously should consider getting yourself a DA (Dual Action) polishing machine, and then using a two-step approach - first cut, second polish. Items 1-6 in my shopping list linked above are pretty hard to beat for value and effectiveness. Literally, they will give you what you need to get the car back to looking as-good-or-better than new - with 10's of litres less sweat

e.g.

1. Dual action polisher. This kit for 3390 Baht is a good enough for occasional DIY and includes the backing plate and polishing pads you'll need: http://diypolish.wel...2585534-th.html

2. Meguiars M105 8oz - 300 Baht - ultra cut compound (step 1)

3. Meguairs M205 8oz - 300 Baht - fine polishing compound (step 2)

4. CarPro Eraser 500ml - 590 Baht - used to clean the surface of all residues before applying glass (step 3) - only needed if glass coating.

6. 6x 3x Meguiars Supreme Shine microfobers - 780 390 Baht (I still prefer these over the "plush" ones) - only a 3-pack needed if not glass coating.

If you'd prefer to work with a wax, just ignore the talk below #6 about glass coatings and apply wax after the polishing step instead.

Not after Glass coat..

So if I was to go steps 1-3 and finally step 6, that should do me. Then apply a wax coat on top ?

[IMHO]

In answer to your question, yes, there are plenty of cutting compounds available...

If you're looking for something that can be hand applied, cut well, and finish out with just one step, I'd recommend the Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. It uses diminishing abrasives - so starts out as a heavy cut to quickly get rid of defects, but as you continue to work it, the abrasives in it diminish down to a high-polish grade. Don't mistake that as meaning it's easy work though

If you just want to correct small areas, it'a a great choice - but if you want to do the whole car, it's going to be a LOT of hard, hot, sweaty work.

If it is the whole car you want to do, you seriously should consider getting yourself a DA (Dual Action) polishing machine, and then using a two-step approach - first cut, second polish. Items 1-6 in my shopping list linked above are pretty hard to beat for value and effectiveness. Literally, they will give you what you need to get the car back to looking as-good-or-better than new - with 10's of litres less sweat

e.g.

1. Dual action polisher. This kit for 3390 Baht is a good enough for occasional DIY and includes the backing plate and polishing pads you'll need: http://diypolish.wel...2585534-th.html

2. Meguiars M105 8oz - 300 Baht - ultra cut compound (step 1)

3. Meguairs M205 8oz - 300 Baht - fine polishing compound (step 2)

4. CarPro Eraser 500ml - 590 Baht - used to clean the surface of all residues before applying glass (step 3) - only needed if glass coating.

6. 6x 3x Meguiars Supreme Shine microfobers - 780 390 Baht (I still prefer these over the "plush" ones) - only a 3-pack needed if not glass coating.

If you'd prefer to work with a wax, just ignore the talk below #6 about glass coatings and apply wax after the polishing step instead.

Not after Glass coat..

So if I was to go steps 1-3 and finally step 6, that should do me. Then apply a wax coat on top ?

Yep, the steps for a full 'restoration' are:

1. Wash

2. Remove big surface contaminants (tar spots, paint overspray etc)

3. Cut (removes swirls, scratches, holograms and oxidisation)

4. Polish (makes the car *shiny* just like new)

5. Wax (add gloss/wetness, improves the ability to resist water and dust, and adds a protective layer)

[cornishcarlos]

Thanks a lot, appreciate it.

Can these products be bought at local stores or just online ?

[IMHO]

Thanks a lot, appreciate it.

Can these products be bought at local stores or just online ?

Both, but it's hard to beat online prices.... Google for: "Thai Washer Car Club" to find vendors with good prices. Some of them have shops too.

The other bonus to online is there's vendors buying bulk product by the gallon, then splitting it into smaller bottles themselves (e.g. the M105 / M205) - if buying in a shop, you're going to be buying much more product than you need, and paying a higher price per ml.

Edited October 9, 2015 by IMHO

[tigermonkey]

In answer to your question, yes, there are plenty of cutting compounds available...

If you're looking for something that can be hand applied, cut well, and finish out with just one step, I'd recommend the Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. It uses diminishing abrasives - so starts out as a heavy cut to quickly get rid of defects, but as you continue to work it, the abrasives in it diminish down to a high-polish grade. Don't mistake that as meaning it's easy work though

If you just want to correct small areas, it'a a great choice - but if you want to do the whole car, it's going to be a LOT of hard, hot, sweaty work.

If it is the whole car you want to do, you seriously should consider getting yourself a DA (Dual Action) polishing machine, and then using a two-step approach - first cut, second polish. Items 1-6 in my shopping list linked above are pretty hard to beat for value and effectiveness. Literally, they will give you what you need to get the car back to looking as-good-or-better than new - with 10's of litres less sweat

e.g.

1. Dual action polisher. This kit for 3390 Baht is a good enough for occasional DIY and includes the backing plate and polishing pads you'll need: http://diypolish.wel...2585534-th.html

2. Meguiars M105 8oz - 300 Baht - ultra cut compound (step 1)

3. Meguairs M205 8oz - 300 Baht - fine polishing compound (step 2)

4. CarPro Eraser 500ml - 590 Baht - used to clean the surface of all residues before applying glass (step 3) - only needed if glass coating.

6. 6x 3x Meguiars Supreme Shine microfobers - 780 390 Baht (I still prefer these over the "plush" ones) - only a 3-pack needed if not glass coating.

If you'd prefer to work with a wax, just ignore the talk below #6 about glass coatings and apply wax after the polishing step instead.

Where in Thailand do you buy your Megulars ? We are near Chiang Mai and have looked everywhere, and now bring it back from overseas when on holidays.

[IMHO]

Where in Thailand do you buy your Megulars ? We are near Chiang Mai and have looked everywhere, and now bring it back from overseas when on holidays.

Mods, please be kind, I'm answering a direct question

Here: http://thaiwashercarclub.com/forum/index.php?board=26.0

[tigermonkey]

Where in Thailand do you buy your Megulars ? We are near Chiang Mai and have looked everywhere, and now bring it back from overseas when on holidays.

Mods, please be kind, I'm answering a direct question

Here: http://thaiwashercarclub.com/forum/index.php?board=26.0

Thank you !

[JaseTheBass]

I just bought some Meguiers (sp) stuff from Lazada.

[DavisH]

In answer to your question, yes, there are plenty of cutting compounds available...

If you're looking for something that can be hand applied, cut well, and finish out with just one step, I'd recommend the Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. It uses diminishing abrasives - so starts out as a heavy cut to quickly get rid of defects, but as you continue to work it, the abrasives in it diminish down to a high-polish grade. Don't mistake that as meaning it's easy work though

If you just want to correct small areas, it'a a great choice - but if you want to do the whole car, it's going to be a LOT of hard, hot, sweaty work.

If it is the whole car you want to do, you seriously should consider getting yourself a DA (Dual Action) polishing machine, and then using a two-step approach - first cut, second polish. Items 1-6 in my shopping list linked above are pretty hard to beat for value and effectiveness. Literally, they will give you what you need to get the car back to looking as-good-or-better than new - with 10's of litres less sweat

e.g.

1. Dual action polisher. This kit for 3390 Baht is a good enough for occasional DIY and includes the backing plate and polishing pads you'll need: http://diypolish.wel...2585534-th.html

2. Meguiars M105 8oz - 300 Baht - ultra cut compound (step 1)

3. Meguairs M205 8oz - 300 Baht - fine polishing compound (step 2)

4. CarPro Eraser 500ml - 590 Baht - used to clean the surface of all residues before applying glass (step 3) - only needed if glass coating.

6. 6x 3x Meguiars Supreme Shine microfobers - 780 390 Baht (I still prefer these over the "plush" ones) - only a 3-pack needed if not glass coating.

If you'd prefer to work with a wax, just ignore the talk below #6 about glass coatings and apply wax after the polishing step instead.

Not after Glass coat..

So if I was to go steps 1-3 and finally step 6, that should do me. Then apply a wax coat on top ?

Yep, the steps for a full 'restoration' are:

1. Wash

2. Remove big surface contaminants (tar spots, paint overspray etc)

3. Cut (removes swirls, scratches, holograms and oxidisation)

4. Polish (makes the car *shiny* just like new)

5. Wax (add gloss/wetness, improves the ability to resist water and dust, and adds a protective layer)

From meguairs regular range, what could you recommend for the polish followed by the wax? I usually only wax, so maybe I should polish first, once in a while.

[johnnynmonic]

I got a BUNCH of tar on mine a while back. A diesel fuel soaked rag and a little elbow grease got it all off. Diesel is a very gentle solvent, didn't damage the paint.

[IMHO]

From meguairs regular range, what could you recommend for the polish followed by the wax? I usually only wax, so maybe I should polish first, once in a while.

I'm going to assume you're asking about their consumer range because you want hand application?

If so, I was a big fan of the Deep Crystal polish for years (indeed the whole deep crystal system)... and when I say that, I mean, I started using it around 23-24 years ago, and only stopped about 7 years ago - when I finally bought polishing machines because my weekend workload was getting too much That said, it seems they updated the Deep Crystal formulations around 6 years ago, so I haven't used the latest version of it. I'm pretty confident they would have only improved it though

They also released a newer product called "Ultimate Polish" a few years ago, but I never did get a chance to use it either. It might be worthwhile seeing if anyone's done any comparison reviews on the two.

And yes, you should definitely polish from time to time - no matter how well you maintain the wax layer, you're always going to get 'some' oxidisation of the paint - polish will take that out and bring back the full shine. It's also the best product for getting rid of diesel stains/discoloration - they're sometimes very subtle so you don't notice them slowly getting worse, but oh boy you'll notice the difference when you get them off your paint

Edited October 9, 2015 by IMHO

[DavisH]

From meguairs regular range, what could you recommend for the polish followed by the wax? I usually only wax, so maybe I should polish first, once in a while.

I'm going to assume you're asking about their consumer range because you want hand application?

If so, I was a big fan of the Deep Crystal polish for years (indeed the whole deep crystal system)... and when I say that, I mean, I started using it around 23-24 years ago, and only stopped about 7 years ago - when I finally bought polishing machines because my weekend workload was getting too much That said, it seems they updated the Deep Crystal formulations around 6 years ago, so I haven't used the latest version of it. I'm pretty confident they would have only improved it though

They also released a newer product called "Ultimate Polish" a few years ago, but I never did get a chance to use it either. It might be worthwhile seeing if anyone's done any comparison reviews on the two.

And yes, you should definitely polish from time to time - no matter how well you maintain the wax layer, you're always going to get 'some' oxidisation of the paint - polish will take that out and bring back the full shine. It's also the best product for getting rid of diesel stains/discoloration - they're sometimes very subtle so you don't notice them slowly getting worse, but oh boy you'll notice the difference when you get them off your paint

Thanks a lot. If I was to use a machine for polishing, would I be using different polishes than those you mentioned? What would be the equivalent I'd use from the professional range? I don't know what they did with my suzuki yesterday (got it serviced), but they put a lot of marks, or swirls, through the paint. I think they used a buffer but maybe they didn't go back over it by hand. I have some basic wax, so will have to go over that again tomorrow.

[IMHO]

From meguairs regular range, what could you recommend for the polish followed by the wax? I usually only wax, so maybe I should polish first, once in a while.

I'm going to assume you're asking about their consumer range because you want hand application?

If so, I was a big fan of the Deep Crystal polish for years (indeed the whole deep crystal system)... and when I say that, I mean, I started using it around 23-24 years ago, and only stopped about 7 years ago - when I finally bought polishing machines because my weekend workload was getting too much That said, it seems they updated the Deep Crystal formulations around 6 years ago, so I haven't used the latest version of it. I'm pretty confident they would have only improved it though

They also released a newer product called "Ultimate Polish" a few years ago, but I never did get a chance to use it either. It might be worthwhile seeing if anyone's done any comparison reviews on the two.

And yes, you should definitely polish from time to time - no matter how well you maintain the wax layer, you're always going to get 'some' oxidisation of the paint - polish will take that out and bring back the full shine. It's also the best product for getting rid of diesel stains/discoloration - they're sometimes very subtle so you don't notice them slowly getting worse, but oh boy you'll notice the difference when you get them off your paint

Thanks a lot. If I was to use a machine for polishing, would I be using different polishes than those you mentioned? What would be the equivalent I'd use from the professional range? I don't know what they did with my suzuki yesterday (got it serviced), but they put a lot of marks, or swirls, through the paint. I think they used a buffer but maybe they didn't go back over it by hand. I have some basic wax, so will have to go over that again tomorrow.

From their pro range / machine application, there are two products I can recommend:

First is M205 - this has very light/minimal correction abilities, but is an awesome finishing polish. It might struggle if the swirls are serious - in which case you'll want to precede it with M105, or;

If you need a product with more correction power, their Paint Reconditioning Cream is an incredible one-step compound - this is what I use when family/friends ask me to make their (very poorly looked after) cars look awesome, but I'm too lazy to do a full 2 step cut and polish It doesn't finish out quite as well as M205, but still finishes v.good. If you want a simple, one-step-does-all product, this is your go-to.

Check it out:

All this said, I do have a confession to make... for the past few months I've been using Menzerna professional compounds (on my cars - PRC on other peoples ). Not because they finish better than the Meg's, mainly because they are a little easier to work with (less pad overloading/gripping, less dusting, easier cleanup). Their SF-4000 polish is so nice to use, and so great at bringing out gloss, I could just keep on doing laps of the car all day long Again though, it's only about the power of the M205, so only good for very minor correction work.

Edited October 9, 2015 by IMHO

[bazza40]

I could probably use the advice as well. Many modern vehicles have what's called a clear coat over the base paint. As far as I understand it, the usual automotive coating system is MMO phosphate, electrophoretic base coat, color coat(s) and finally clear coat.

My concern is that using a cutting compound on the clear coat will either make it cloudy, or take the coating back to the color coat. Is this concern valid?

[IMHO]

I could probably use the advice as well. Many modern vehicles have what's called a clear coat over the base paint. As far as I understand it, the usual automotive coating system is MMO phosphate, electrophoretic base coat, color coat(s) and finally clear coat.

My concern is that using a cutting compound on the clear coat will either make it cloudy, or take the coating back to the color coat. Is this concern valid?

Not really, no.

Sure, a heavy cut compound like M105 will leave the surface a little 'dull', so needs to be followed up with a polishing step (M205), but if anything the only difference between clear coats and older style single stage paints is that clear coats are much harder than paint, so, more work. That's why hand application just ain't as effective as it used to be.

You also need to bear in mind that cars have been getting clear coated for well over a decade (some two) now - so all these compounds are designed for them.

The only time you're going to work clear coat so hard you need to be concerned about breaking through it, is:

1. When using a rotary polisher, and not knowing exactly how to use it. That's why I only recommend DA's - even if you leave it to run in one spot for a minute, it's not going to break through (well, probably not)

2. When using hyper-agressive pads and compounds for orange peel removal (even if you know how to use a rotary, or are using a DA). Not recommended unless you're willing to accept that a new paint job might be the end result.

One more thing: when I refer to M105 as being an "ultra cut compound" I'm referring to how effective it is at defect removal, not how close it is to sandpaper, hehe. It's a very safe compound to use with a DA (Dual Action) polisher.

Edited October 9, 2015 by IMHO

[cornishcarlos]

This is quite interesting... Quite technical when you start talking complete protection systems. Never thought about it before !

So do you always use a micro fibre cloth to go over any product application and are the buffer pads and cloths reusable ?

[WarpSpeed]

WD-40.................................................................

OP said:

Next question, post removal, I would like to polish/wax the whole car

Yah yah.. But he still seemed uncertain and indecisive so I gave him another little push.. No harm no foul .

[WarpSpeed]

I got a BUNCH of tar on mine a while back. A diesel fuel soaked rag and a little elbow grease got it all off. Diesel is a very gentle solvent, didn't damage the paint.

Hope you wore gloves, diesel is a nasty carcinogen.

[Lokie]

I know not LOS, but my UK motor goes in for Detailing Mon for 2 stage paint correction/polish and sealed incl alloys, interior cleaned and detailed and engine detailed (Mercedes Benz CLS) is £450 GBP I then intend to keep it A1 afterwards (thats the plan anyway?)

Will be the two bucket system wash for me from now on and only lambs wool mits etc and grit guards in buckets, and to think it juyst used to be a bucket of water sponge and washing up liquid?

Edited October 9, 2015 by Lokie

[uksomchai]

This is quite interesting... Quite technical when you start talking complete protection systems. Never thought about it before !

So do you always use a micro fibre cloth to go over any product application and are the buffer pads and cloths reusable ?

Carlos be careful here. nobody has mentioned yet but it is very easy to get carried away with what you are planning and ending up ruining your paintwork to a point where it needs redone. I have seen it on many cars especially where the owner has used a drill attachment on it.

My best advise would be to take it to one of the many car clean places that are everywhere and show him the bits you want sorting and what finish you want after removal. Just go for one of the higher end shops and you will be OK. Ask around where you live or ask any Thai friends who have nice cars where they take theirs. You can't beat a recommendation

[IMHO]

This is quite interesting... Quite technical when you start talking complete protection systems. Never thought about it before !

So do you always use a micro fibre cloth to go over any product application and are the buffer pads and cloths reusable ?

Generally speaking, with most products you'll apply and work them with a foam pad:

Whether it's hand applicators:

Or one of various grades of machine pads:

Info/source: http://www.auto-geek.net/charts/buffing-pad-chart-lc.htm

And then use the microfiber cloths to remove residue, and give the surface a final "hand buff"

With the compounds and products available these days, it would be unusual to apply them with a cloth - and the hard work is in the application, not so much the removal.

Edited October 9, 2015 by IMHO

[IMHO]

This is quite interesting... Quite technical when you start talking complete protection systems. Never thought about it before !

So do you always use a micro fibre cloth to go over any product application and are the buffer pads and cloths reusable ?

Carlos be careful here. nobody has mentioned yet but it is very easy to get carried away with what you are planning and ending up ruining your paintwork to a point where it needs redone. I have seen it on many cars especially where the owner has used a drill attachment on it.

My best advise would be to take it to one of the many car clean places that are everywhere and show him the bits you want sorting and what finish you want after removal. Just go for one of the higher end shops and you will be OK. Ask around where you live or ask any Thai friends who have nice cars where they take theirs. You can't beat a recommendation

Right, we have covered that a few times in the past couple of days; Rotary polishers are dangerous in inexperienced hands

The good news is, someone invented Dual Action polishers, and now doing this kind of thing is very safe for DIYers

[IMHO]

This is quite interesting... Quite technical when you start talking complete protection systems. Never thought about it before !

So do you always use a micro fibre cloth to go over any product application and are the buffer pads and cloths reusable ?

Sorry, I missed this question.

They sure are

Pads & cloths should be soaked in water + laundry soap for a while after use (hot water if you have it), then hand washed, rinsed and dried naturally. While you can put them in a washing machine (i.e. they won't fall apart), it's not advised because you're going to leave some compound residues behind in the tub.. Also, never, ever, ever, use fabric softeners on them.

And when drying - make sure there's zero chance of them falling on the ground.

Edited October 9, 2015 by IMHO

[IMHO]

Here's some tute videos on using a DA (ignore the brand specific stuff - they're all pretty much the same)

Edited October 9, 2015 by IMHO