T-cut or similar..?

[IMHO]

[IMHO]

A morning's work

3 sets of 3 passes with CarPro denim pads*, and Menzerna FastGloss 400

1 set of 3 passes with CarPro velvet pads*, and Menzerna FastGloss 400

2 sets of 6 passes with CarPro Gloss pads, and Menzerna SuperFinish 4000

1 pass with Wolfgang Fuzion wax

All done with a DA polisher, some coffee, and a little sweat

Note: FastGloss 400 is equiv. to Meguiars M105, SuperFinsh 4000 is equiv. to Meguiars M205

* Extremely aggressive pads - do not attempt these until you have LOTS of experience.

[IMHO]

And here's the end result of a day's de-orange-peeling and polishing work:

Edited October 10, 2015 by IMHO

[IMHO]

VS what it looked like from the dealer:

[Lokie]

Did he mention the Portacable 7424 XP dual action polisher? in that video lol... seriously good link and informative thread...

[cornishcarlos]

And here's the end result of a day's de-orange-peeling and polishing work:

EV-Done.jpg

That is what I'm after

It's online shopping time... That DIY polisher, that you linked to, looks exactly the same as the Meguairs one !! Just re branded maybe ?

[Lokie]

And here's the end result of a day's de-orange-peeling and polishing work:

EV-Done.jpg

Outstanding work and well worth the effort - well done IMHO that is better than the dealer pic, hope mine looks as good when I get it back (also in Black)

[DavisH]

This is quite interesting... Quite technical when you start talking complete protection systems. Never thought about it before !

So do you always use a micro fibre cloth to go over any product application and are the buffer pads and cloths reusable ?

Sorry, I missed this question.

They sure are

Pads & cloths should be soaked in water + laundry soap for a while after use (hot water if you have it), then hand washed, rinsed and dried naturally. While you can put them in a washing machine (i.e. they won't fall apart), it's not advised because you're going to leave some compound residues behind in the tub.. Also, never, ever, ever, use fabric softeners on them.

And when drying - make sure there's zero chance of them falling on the ground.

I can't stress how important that last line is. I had a tiny piece of grit left on a foam applicator once, put many lines all through my roof into the clear coat. No matter how much scratch remover I used, I could not get them fully out. Fortunately I got the roof repainted later for a couple of dents. I can imagine the damage done with a rotary buffer!

[cornishcarlos]

What sort of results can I expect on a white car ? Probably not gonna get the same reflection as in black !

[DavisH]

What sort of results can I expect on a white car ? Probably not gonna get the same reflection as in black !

I saw a white 3.2 the other day. It looked awesome! I like black too, but would have to trade my wife and her Chinese beliefs to own it....I'll ponder that for a while

[Isan Farang]

What sort of results can I expect on a white car ? Probably not gonna get the same reflection as in black !

IMHO kindly provided me with a Meguairs shopping list and I was very pleased with the end result.

[IMHO]

Did he mention the Portacable 7424 XP dual action polisher? in that video lol... seriously good link and informative thread...

I actually did one of Mike Phillip's weekend detailing camps about 10-11 years ago - back then he was working for Meguiars, and you guessed it, Meg's this, Meg's that over and over and over

[IMHO]

It's online shopping time... That DIY polisher, that you linked to, looks exactly the same as the Meguairs one !! Just re branded maybe ?

Well, the Megiuar's brand one is a rebranded Porter Cable, so anything is possible

There are a few slight differences between them all, but they all do the same job in the end. The only exception being the ones sold at places like Home Pro, with brand names like Black and Decker. Avoid them.

The 3300 Baht one I linked to does the same job as my Meg's/Porter Cable one - it might not last as long though... or it might last just as long

[Lokie]

It's online shopping time... That DIY polisher, that you linked to, looks exactly the same as the Meguairs one !! Just re branded maybe ?

Well, the Megiuar's brand one is a rebranded Porter Cable, so anything is possible

There are a few slight differences between them all, but they all do the same job in the end. The only exception being the ones sold at places like Home Pro, with brand names like Black and Decker. Avoid them.

The 3300 Baht one I linked to does the same job as my Meg's/Porter Cable one - it might not last as long though... or it might last just as long

In the vid link posted I also clicked on another youtube clip after the first (Junkman, on the DA polisher, explained real good about it) and later referances to kit (snow gun etc) I am now worried I am going to get hooked into detailing, i get like this as a first timer falls in love with a Bar girl lol...

The white Beemer lookiing good too!! Issan farang

Edited October 10, 2015 by Lokie

[IMHO]

Will be the two bucket system wash for me from now on and only lambs wool mits etc and grit guards in buckets, and to think it juyst used to be a bucket of water sponge and washing up liquid?

Hehe

My current washing process has evolved from the 2 bucket system to a "no bucket system":

1. Spray tires, wheels and inside wheel arches with Meg's Super Degreaser (All purpose cleaner also works) and agitate with a wheel well brush.

2. Coat the car in a layer of foam, using a foam lance on a pressure washer, and Chemical Guy's Honeydew soap. Leave to sit for a few mins (do not let it start drying).

3. Pressure wash the entire car thoroughly, making sure that all big dirt particles are *gone*. You won't get everything off though, so:

4. Apply another coat of snow foam, and let it settle for a minute or so.

5. Using 4 - 8 Meguiars wash gloves (the white ones are best, IMHO), give each one a quick shot from the foam lance, then gently wash each panel (note: by wash I mean just lightly loosen any remaining dirt only - the next step will actually remove it), changing gloves as they start getting dirty - i.e. you're never washing with a dirty glove, and never attempting to clean and re-use a glove.

6. Pressure wash off all loosened dirt / soap residue.

7. Partially "Dry" the car using a garden hose slowly over the surface, making the water sheet off. Optional step: use a leaf blower to blast water out of crevices - especially places like the front grille.

8. Dry off the remaining water (minimal now) using 2-4 waffle towels, applying the absolute minimum pressure needed - and again, not re-using them - don't wring them out when they get too wet, switch towels.

9. Open the doors and re-use the damp waffle towels to wipe down the door/hood/trunk jambs.

OK yes, it's esoteric, and some of you probably think I'm obsessive/compulsive now - but when you've worked hard to remove all swirls in the paint, it's pretty heart breaking if your washing technique puts them back - and really, it's quite an easy/fast system.

Edited October 11, 2015 by IMHO

[IMHO]

What sort of results can I expect on a white car ? Probably not gonna get the same reflection as in black !

My old PJS came back to visit this afternoon, so I gave it a quick polish.

Even white can do reflections

[cornishcarlos]

Watching some YT tutorials by Junkman, pretty informative and easy to follow. My only concern is, according to him, polishing should be done indoors and a cool temp How do we manage that out here ?

Also, did you clay your cars first ?

[IMHO]

Watching some YT tutorials by Junkman, pretty informative and easy to follow. My only concern is, according to him, polishing should be done indoors and a cool temp How do we manage that out here ?

Also, did you clay your cars first ?

I do all my work in a carport (roof only). That's about as cool as I can get. Hence the sweat references

As for clay - that's maybe something you use in step #2 here:

1. Wash

2. Remove big surface contaminants (tar spots, paint overspray etc)

3. Cut (removes swirls, scratches, holograms and oxidisation)

4. Polish (makes the car *shiny* just like new)

5. Wax (add gloss/wetness, improves the ability to resist water and dust, and adds a protective layer)

But it depends on what the contaminants are... you wouldn't use clay for trying to remove tar spots, but you would use it for getting rid contaminants you can feel, that can'y be readily dissolved/loosened with chemicals - e.g. paint overspray, fallout from some trees etc.

You need to be very careful using clay... if it picks up a big, scratchy particle you can be doing more harm than good. Personally, I always prefer trying chemicals (e.g. Meguiars Body Solvent) to try and soften/loosen/dissolve contaminants first - and only use clay as a last resort. Make sure you use lots of lubricant when claying, and listen/feel for things going wrong.

[IMHO]

We did some more work on my friends (ex-mine) pearl white PJS last weekend... (it just took me this long to sync my phone)

Reflections Before:

Reflections After:

This was done with a DA polisher, Carpro denim pads, and some Menzerna FG400.

Note: it actually looked good before.. now it just looks better

[Isan Farang]

We did some more work on my friends (ex-mine) pearl white PJS last weekend... (it just took me this long to sync my phone)

Reflections Before:

before-cut.jpg

Reflections After:

after-cut.jpg

This was done with a DA polisher, Carpro denim pads, and some Menzerna FG400.

Note: it actually looked good before.. now it just looks better

IMHO for my Pajero I have been using the white wax

Do you know if there is any other wax that is not white in color as at times its difficult to check all areas are fully covered. I am applying by hand.

[JAS21]

Autoglym HD ...it's white but easy to see where it has been applied

[Isan Farang]

Autoglym HD ...it's white but easy to see where it has been applied

Is this the one you mean and did you obtain in Thailand

[JAS21]

Yes and No ... you could try Thai Washer Car Club ... sometimes they have it.

Actually just 5 minutes ago I ordered some from a Halfords branch in the UK and a friend will bring it over. Sorry I can't order more than one.

Edited October 27, 2015 by JAS21

[Isan Farang]

Yes and No ... you could try Thai Washer Car Club ... sometimes they have it.

Actually just 5 minutes ago I ordered some from a Halfords branch in the UK and a friend will bring it over. Sorry I can't order more than one.

Is this around the cost ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/Autoglym-High-Definition-Car-Wax-Kit-HD-Waxing-Polish/111671149666?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&_trksid=p5197.c100068.m2280&_trkparms=ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140211130857%26meid%3D350a356a03ae46fc9f62689ee06dbb6c%26pid%3D100068%26clkid%3D762356775347781630&_qi=RTM2063723

[JAS21]

Hell thst is cheap ..44.99 in Halfords. Sometimes Halfords have a 3 for 2 but not at present. My last tin is 3 years old. I still have a lityle left.

[IMHO]

When it comes to wax, I think I've probably tried everything except the Autoglym HD...

My two favourites are the Pinnacale Souvaran paste wax:

This is a more conventional pure carnauba wax, goes on easy, comes off easy, smells nice and remains slick to the touch up to 2 weeks in Thailand, and stays beading for up to 4 weeks. The problem? It looks great on dark colors, but on white, like any other carnauba wax, it's only going to lift the finish marginally.

Then there's my all-time favorite, that obsoleted every other wax I own, the Wolfgang Fuzion:

This is a hybrid wax with pure carnauba and polymers. It's incredibly easy to apply and remove - with no waiting at all - just wipe on, wipe off - no sweating at all either... No worries with not being able to see where you've covered - you will feel the difference like night and day. Looks awesome upon application, but looks even better the next day. Don't let the car get wet for 24 hours after applying. I've had this remain slick to the touch for up to 4 weeks, and still sheeting water for over 8 weeks. It's so "hydrophobic" I can't even get my foam lance to create a proper layer of foam on the car when washing... Looks simply superb on any color paint - a super wet gloss layer that actually lasts, in this country.

The downside: price. But one tub of this lasts so long that the overall cost per application ends up being very reasonable*. if you can stomach the upfront cost I'm sure you won't be disappointed. I've never used a wax that goes on/off so easy, looks as good, or lasts as long.

Note: All longevity durations are null and void if you do highway driving in the rain

* Tip: use a round foam applicator like the one in the Souveran photo, and leave it in the wax can permanently (unless you drop it or it picks up dirt/grit) - that way you're not wasting product priming the applicator each time.

Edited October 27, 2015 by IMHO

[IMHO]

I just checked: I bought my Wolfgang Fuzion in January 2013 for 3,000 Baht (from TWCC), and use it on two cars (the other two are glass coated), as they need it.

Currently I still have a little under half a tin left:

So I'll probably get 4-5 years out of it (doing 2 cars), which makes the overall value not too bad.

Edited October 27, 2015 by IMHO

[IMHO]

Here's some new toys I just got for the EV

[JAS21]

Should give a good result ... understand it's nearly as good as Eco 7000:)

[IMHO]

Should give a good result ... understand it's nearly as good as Eco 7000:)

LOL, at 3x the price of the Eco 7000, I hope it's as good

I'm guessing "10H" in this case means "harder than 9H", rather than actually being as hard as diamond

The Mohs scale is very much "interpretable"

Edited November 6, 2015 by IMHO