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Posted

I'd take my truck to the dealer to be fixed.....but I can't duplicate my problem at will. Here it is....maybe someone can offer advice:

2008 Toyota Vigo 3.0L, manual transmission, 95,000km, serviced and no accidents.

On occasion, but almost always when driving in traffic in town, my truck will stall either when I'm coming to a traffic stop (especially if I have to make a sudden stop), or, after sitting at a light and then leaving in first gear. If I catch it getting ready to stall and goose the accelerator, I can usually prevent it from stalling. If it stalls, I can always restart the engine without a problem.

Again, this happens only occasionally....but if it happens once during a drive in town, it might happen again the same day. Then it might not happen again for a few days or weeks. Sometimes I can sense it's going to go into this voodoo mode as I'm coming to a stop, let off the accelerator, and the engine will rev slightly more than normal.

I've been driving manual transmissions all my life and this is my third Toyota diesel. I never had similar problems with previous vehicles.

I know if I take the vehicle to the dealer I'll not be able to replicate the problem........and will end up no better off.

Any ideas out there?

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Posted

Does the check engine light come on when this happens?

Does it only happen when the fuel level is low?

Any weird sounds, rough running, or engine noises getting louder?

What's the consistency of the oil like?

Main suspects are:

Commonrail pump

SCV valve

Blocked fuel filter

Less likely suspects are:

Injector seals

Bad fuel

Posted

The battery may need replacing.

My Fortuner cut out a few times and always started after, some guy asked how old my battery was, it was about 5 years old, I changed the Battery, problem solved.

Posted

I don't think that it's the battery, but there're plenty of possible reasons. You can easily check the battery with a voltmeter, you should have more than 12 volts when engine is not running.

Once the engine is running you should read around 13. plus volts. First check the connectors at the battery, take them off, clean them if necessary.

Check all cable connectors and all vacuum tubes. Vacuum tubes can have little cuts, that aren't even visible, but can cause such a problem.

When did you change the fuel filter the last time? Does the system get air?

Does that also happen when you're driving without aircon on? How many RPM's do you read when the engine is idling, without air? How many with air on?

Please do some easy checks and get back.

Posted

Just looked through the Forums old posts, check out the battery.

Don't think it could be battery,as once you have started you don't need

a battery,as the engine works on compression, when was the last time you

replaced the fuel filter?, as that is often forgotten,and with the quality of

diesel here,water contaminated,muck in the fuel.

regards Worgeordie

Posted

I'll speculate that the battery is failing the fuel pump at idle. That could be why goosing it stops the stall. I'll speculate that all of your examples have to do with the alternator slowing enough to fail to get enough juice to the fuel pump and rescue you from a bad battery.

Hey, it's old enough to deserve a new battery anyway, so what's the harm? I replace my vehicle batteries every 3 years.

Don't forget to change the air in your tires too, LOL. tongue.png

Posted

I'll speculate that the battery is failing the fuel pump at idle. That could be why goosing it stops the stall. I'll speculate that all of your examples have to do with the alternator slowing enough to fail to get enough juice to the fuel pump and rescue you from a bad battery.

Hey, it's old enough to deserve a new battery anyway, so what's the harm? I replace my vehicle batteries every 3 years.

Don't forget to change the air in your tires too, LOL. tongue.png

Mechanical fuel pump, not electric.

Posted

Just looked through the Forums old posts, check out the battery.

Don't think it could be battery

I thought the same when my truck was stalling, but it was the battery.

Posted

I'll speculate that the battery is failing the fuel pump at idle. That could be why goosing it stops the stall. I'll speculate that all of your examples have to do with the alternator slowing enough to fail to get enough juice to the fuel pump and rescue you from a bad battery.

Hey, it's old enough to deserve a new battery anyway, so what's the harm? I replace my vehicle batteries every 3 years.

Don't forget to change the air in your tires too, LOL. tongue.png

NS, you can buy my tire air sealed in Lao Khao bottles for only $19.99. tongue.png

Posted

Cars n Trucks run of the Alternator when started not the Battery.

Yes, very true truck runs off the alternator ... BUT ... I had a problem with an alarm coming up on my V-Cross, thought that I might have a big bill coming my way. Garage suggested battery as it was over 3-years old. Okay I changed it and no problems since.

It does seem from what others say that that somehow a 'suspect' battery can effect the electronics even when the alternator is holding the voltage up. Maybe someone will come along and explain the technicalities. Can but hope.

Posted

I replaced my battery last year.......so the occasional problem existed with the old battery and the new. At any rate, when the truck dies, it easily starts again.

As for some of the other suggestions like water in the fuel vacuum leaks......it would seem like if that was the problem, I would experience the cut outs more frequently rather than only occasionally (maybe once a month or once every two months or twice in a month.......but never experience the problem day after day).

My fuel filter was changed 7000km ago. I only use PTT fuel and try never to fill up if the fuel trucks are filling the tanks.

I change my oil every 4000-5000km......just changed it last week.......then had the cut out problem once this week. Today I drove the truck throughout town......many errands.....no cut outs, no hesitation.

Thanks for all the hints......I'm open to ideas.

Posted

I replaced my battery last year.......so the occasional problem existed with the old battery and the new. At any rate, when the truck dies, it easily starts again.

As for some of the other suggestions like water in the fuel vacuum leaks......it would seem like if that was the problem, I would experience the cut outs more frequently rather than only occasionally (maybe once a month or once every two months or twice in a month.......but never experience the problem day after day).

My fuel filter was changed 7000km ago. I only use PTT fuel and try never to fill up if the fuel trucks are filling the tanks.

I change my oil every 4000-5000km......just changed it last week.......then had the cut out problem once this week. Today I drove the truck throughout town......many errands.....no cut outs, no hesitation.

Thanks for all the hints......I'm open to ideas.

These questions still stand (even though you change your oil frequently):

Does the check engine light come on when this happens?

Does it only happen when the fuel level is low?

Any weird sounds, rough running, or engine noises getting louder?

What's the consistency of the oil like?

Posted

Mechanical fuel pump, not electric.

I'm not ready to accept that at face value. ????? I can find only electric replacement, even OEM pumps for that.

???

Cheers.

Posted

When a modern car is started, the Start position on the ignition switch kills most accessories so that max voltage is available to the starter. When the switch is returned to Run, accessories come on. This is why a bad battery might start a car but not run everything. There is of course power to the fuel pump in the start circuit.

When this car idles the alternator may slow enough that it can't support all of the items that came on in the run circuit. I don't know about Thailand but in the US headlights and taillights come on even in the daytime for perceived safety. That's a lot of load. Normally the battery supports this without issue.

If my pickup was idling too slow for the alternator to support all of these accessories it would die if the battery was weak. Not only would the fuel pump stop but so would the ECM for the engine. The headlights and taillights alone would overwhelm.

IF it has an electric fuel pump which I think it does then I suspect he got a defective new battery. It wouldn't be the first time I've bought a defective battery.

The only thing that makes sense to me is that it's running out of juice at an idle and occasionally there isn't enough charge in the battery to overcome it. It does it only at or near idle and goosing it seems to catch it.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it, LOL. Either that or it's the old style and obsolete air in the tires. tongue.png

Posted

Mechanical fuel pump, not electric.

I'm not ready to accept that at face value. ????? I can find only electric replacement, even OEM pumps for that.

???

Cheers.

Can you put up a link to these electric fuel pumps for a Toyota hilux/Vigo 2008 3.0 d4d. .

Posted

yeah thats only a lift pump. It would have to go completely out of action starve the main pump. Ignoring that what is written on that page is not the same as what is happening to the OP.

Posted
I had a similar problem on my Isuzu 2 years ago. Dealer immediate diagnosis: light leakage to injection pum hoses. No problem for normal speed but random cut-injection idling.


At the time garage was asked to choose between the complete replacement of hoses beam (8000B) or manual repair the porous hose for a tip 800 b. I chose the second solution, and the fault has disappeared.

Posted

yeah thats only a lift pump. It would have to go completely out of action starve the main pump. Ignoring that what is written on that page is not the same as what is happening to the OP.

I was just clarifying the pump question. But, the link tells one ALL the different bits and pieces used in the fuel delivery on the D4D to look at..smile.png

(Though I don't think the prob is fuel related)

Actually Iam struggling (not saying it does not have one) to find an electric lift pump for the 2008 model, it appears to still have that little pump/primer thingo on the filter assembly

What year was the electric lift pump introduced ?

Posted

Mechanical fuel pump, not electric.

I'm not ready to accept that at face value. ????? I can find only electric replacement, even OEM pumps for that.

???

Cheers.

Don Mega is correct.post-66452-0-58395400-1444798405_thumb.j

Posted

Did a trip into Udon today.....same Toyota 3.0 Vigo, same oil, same fuel (now half a tank), same driving conditions. I probably stopped at 20 or more lights in town while doing errands. The truck performed without hesitation.

This is what drives me batty......knowing that the problem I mentioned only happens occasionally. Again, thanks for all the hints and replies.

Posted

Drove into town again today.....edging my way into a roundabout, the truck began to stall. I was able to get it through the roundabout, but hardly any power......no engine check light, but the engine does seem to rattle more when it's in this condition. After I got through the roundabout, I goosed the accelerator and got the engine running normally again. Stopped for an errand shortly afterward and the problem did not reoccur. Did another 5 stop and go errands around town without incident. Sigh!

Posted

Is there a reason you're not taking to a Toyota Dealer ?

Yes. 1. I cannot duplicate the problem on command. 2. The problem is an occasional one.......I don't like it, but it's more like an annoyance at this point. I was hoping someone else experienced the same problem (only occasional, as mine is) and could point me in the right direction toward repairing it.

If I could duplicate the problem on demand, I'd take it to the dealer in al heartbeat.

Posted

If it were mine I would buy a cheapo ELM327 Bluetooth dongle and insert it into the OBD II port. download the torque pro app onto the phone and the next time it does it do a trouble code scan BEFORE you turn the vehicle off.

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