JaseTheBass Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 12000 BTU'S would be okay for your room, I am about to buy the Mitsubishi Mr Slim Model MSY-GM12VF,12000BTU's COST APPROX 24,000 Baht I already have one in another bedroom, they are very quiet Well I am not rushing into this today but I did stop in at Siam and they had an 18 BTU with invertor at about 26,000 baht. I told him I had about 30 sq. Meters and 2 1/2 meters high and he tried to tell me I needed a 35,000 BTU. Now I have read a lot of different posts from the ones recommended and have yet to find one that can say this is what you need per cubic meter in one room. One I followed to the last page where it gave the sizes and al of a sudden it changed to Thai. I noticed about a 7,000 baht difference in the convertor and non convertor. Not in the least interested in heating with it. The closest I have been able to figure is 18,000 BTU Edit It was a Mitsubishi I was looking at. That would do me. 15 to 18k btu would be spot on if I was buying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HullyGully Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Look on the internet, there are many site which calculate the BTU's required Basically, you input L X W X H Some ask about windows, number of people, printer/computers I still reckon 12000BTU is okay Check it yourself on the net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HullyGully Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 A room 5 x 4 x 2.5mtrs with 2 people, 3 pieces of computer kit / printers etc. Calc's came out at BTU's 11500 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LannaGuy Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 I have bought maybe 20 aircons over the years for the condos I have purchased. I found Mitsu Heavy quite good but for bedrooms it's Daiken all the way for me. I always buy more BTU's than I need as the AC does not have to work so hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadMac Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 600BTU/sqm is often a quoted rough gauge which would be 18,000 for your room size. So many other variables such as how much glass is facing the sun, insulation, etc. From my personal experience I feel 18k BTU will be fine. I believe that's what HomePro uses. Normally and sufficient is 300. 18BTU will be fine for 30sqm. Even 13 would do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LannaGuy Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 600BTU/sqm is often a quoted rough gauge which would be 18,000 for your room size. So many other variables such as how much glass is facing the sun, insulation, etc. From my personal experience I feel 18k BTU will be fine. I believe that's what HomePro uses. Normally and sufficient is 300. 18BTU will be fine for 30sqm. Even 13 would do. I agree that 18 is OTT for such a small space but... it will not work so hard and can be turned down etc. For one of my small spare bedrooms I have a 14 which is perfectly adequate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thai3 Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Mitsubishi Aircons are also very quiet Just be sure to select Mitsubishi Heavy and not Mitsubishi Electric. This was recommended by a couple of friends who are AC guys and I found out why. The external fan motor failed and it took weeks to get a replacement. He said if was a Mitsubishi Heavy he could have gotten the part right away. we have one of both but the Mit Heavy always needs topping up with gas every year where as the mr slim never does. Everyone says the heavy duty mit does not have a leak. Both good though far better than samsung, they are horrible units, not sure about their newer triangle ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thai3 Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Mitsubishi Aircons are also very quiet Just be sure to select Mitsubishi Heavy and not Mitsubishi Electric. This was recommended by a couple of friends who are AC guys and I found out why. The external fan motor failed and it took weeks to get a replacement. He said if was a Mitsubishi Heavy he could have gotten the part right away. we have one of both but the Mit Heavy always needs topping up with gas every year where as the mr slim never does. Everyone says the heavy duty mit does not have a leak. Both good though far better than samsung, they are horrible units, not sure about their newer triangle ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadMac Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 These are 2 complete different companies, Mitsubishi Electric and Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, they share the Logo but that's probably it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaseTheBass Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Mitsubishi Aircons are also very quiet Just be sure to select Mitsubishi Heavy and not Mitsubishi Electric. This was recommended by a couple of friends who are AC guys and I found out why. The external fan motor failed and it took weeks to get a replacement. He said if was a Mitsubishi Heavy he could have gotten the part right away. we have one of both but the Mit Heavy always needs topping up with gas every year where as the mr slim never does. Everyone says the heavy duty mit does not have a leak. Both good though far better than samsung, they are horrible units, not sure about their newer triangle ones. I have 2 newish triangle Samsungs. They're quiet and powerful enough to deal with the bedrooms I have them in. For the money, they were a bargain and I'd happily buy more of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadMac Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Just spoke to one aircon guy in BKK as I also need one new unit. Not a seller, the service guy. He strongly suggested to stay away from Samsung, LG and Haier. They will break into pieces, plastic parts don't last, and replacement/service will be more costly over the lifetime of let's say 10 years. If you get a Samsung for really cheap, and they sell the old design now really cheap (same inside as new models), that may offset the possibly higher service costs, particularly in the north, where you can survive half of the time without aircon. In BKK you can't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naam Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 we have one of both but the Mit Heavy always needs topping up with gas every year where as the mr slim never does. Everyone says the heavy duty mit does not have a leak. Both good though far better than samsung, they are horrible units, not sure about their newer triangle ones. refrigerant leaks which require topping due to shoddy installation no matter what brand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naam Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 600BTU/sqm is often a quoted rough gauge which would be 18,000 for your room size. So many other variables such as how much glass is facing the sun, insulation, etc. From my personal experience I feel 18k BTU will be fine. I believe that's what HomePro uses. Normally and sufficient is 300. 18BTU will be fine for 30sqm. Even 13 would do. what is the definition of "sufficient" and "will do"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadMac Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 what is the definition of "sufficient" and "will do"? For me personally it would be 25C. If colder I'll die. Or at least suffer. Up to you as they say Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naam Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 what is the definition of "sufficient" and "will do"? For me personally it would be 25C. If colder I'll die. Or at least suffer. Up to you as they say 25ºC sounds reasonable although i prefer different temperatures in different rooms for different activities, e.g. 25º in my study doing some research is fine, 25º in my tv-room watching a movie is too cold, 25º in my bedroom after having slept 2-3 hours is just right but when i go to bed i insist on 16º when crawling under a light quilt after switching off the two units generating a total of 36,000 btu/h. mileages vary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thai3 Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 we have one of both but the Mit Heavy always needs topping up with gas every year where as the mr slim never does. Everyone says the heavy duty mit does not have a leak. Both good though far better than samsung, they are horrible units, not sure about their newer triangle ones. refrigerant leaks which require topping due to shoddy installation no matter what brand. where does it leak and how to fix, bloke seems clueless then if it is a leak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lopburi3 Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Leaks can also be within the units themselves - have had that problem (although will not rule out someone dropping it during transit or install causing the tubing leak) but suspect poor QC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonsalviz Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 If you live in an area subject to power surges, I suggest not buying an inverter unit. Mine cost me 16,000 baht to repair and 2 months to get the parts. It was still under warranty but of course power surges are not covered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naam Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 we have one of both but the Mit Heavy always needs topping up with gas every year where as the mr slim never does. Everyone says the heavy duty mit does not have a leak. Both good though far better than samsung, they are horrible units, not sure about their newer triangle ones. refrigerant leaks which require topping due to shoddy installation no matter what brand. where does it leak and how to fix, bloke seems clueless then if it is a leak leaks usually occur at pipe connections at inside as well as outside units or piece meal piping at the soldering points. difficult to detect as it requires a highly sensitive and expensive gadget which does not exist in Thailand (so it seems). rumour has it that hard or impossible to detect leaks are the darlings of aircon service people because they provide a stable income Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tywais Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 leaks usually occur at pipe connections at inside as well as outside units or piece meal piping at the soldering points. difficult to detect as it requires a highly sensitive and expensive gadget which does not exist in Thailand (so it seems). rumour has it that hard or impossible to detect leaks are the darlings of aircon service people because they provide a stable income Some soapy water does a pretty good job as a leak detector. Or a/c dye and a UV lamp. Old tech can still do the job. You can get a halogen leak detector for a few thousand baht or less in Thailand. Sinokit Thailand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naam Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 leaks usually occur at pipe connections at inside as well as outside units or piece meal piping at the soldering points. difficult to detect as it requires a highly sensitive and expensive gadget which does not exist in Thailand (so it seems). rumour has it that hard or impossible to detect leaks are the darlings of aircon service people because they provide a stable income Some soapy water does a pretty good job as a leak detector. Or a/c dye and a UV lamp. Old tech can still do the job. You can get a halogen leak detector for a few thousand baht or less in Thailand. Sinokit Thailand detecting a leak which requires a refrigerant topping after one year with soapy water is a myth. a highly sensitive and expensive gadget which does not exist in Thailand (so it seems). please use irony detector Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonwilly Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 My A/C packed up, Froze over inside wall unit and "Compressor/Cooler" would not shut off. This morning young man turned up and after making quick check said 'I go'. He came back with an electrician who took the wall unit apart and made some adjustment. Took about 30 mins, seems to be working well now. B500. john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northernjohn Posted March 29, 2016 Author Share Posted March 29, 2016 Well I certainly got the information I needed and I thank you all for that. If some thing goes wrong with it I will just get a professional in to look at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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