Water storage and distribution system

[ThaiKneeTim]

I posted elsewhere that I would provide information about the new water control system that I've designed, and now built, and here it is... in part!

The primary aim was to improve, and expand on the system installed, by someone lacking in skills, during my absence. After finding that the water pressure wasn't sufficient to activate the pressure switch on the electric shower the girlfriend got someone in to solve the problem. The solution overcame the supply of water, in a fashion, but the pipework asthetics and technical issues were plenty, and offended my professional sensibilities. The tank and pump were located at a point convenient for the 'crafsman' that installed them, but were unfortunatly in the full glare of the sun, so just when you were loooking forward to a cool refreshing shower you got third degree burns from the scolding hot water (I may have exaggerated a little (Poetic licence))

As the crow flies pipework configuration, no isolation valves,nothing bracketed or fixed down. The pump doing a merry jig everytime water was demanded, etc, etc, etc!! I know it was an after thought, but a spiders web of pipes at various angles and no valves meant that anytime I needed to work on the system the whole water network had to be shut down. I did put a valve on the tank fill pipeline when I had the opportunity, but the outlet to the pump from the tank never got a valve as I didn't want to waste water by draining the tank just for that, and being without water wasn't possible as her indoors was trying to run a hair salon.

Okay, now to my design: I sat down and made a list of requirements:

• Increased storage capacity.
• Dual redundancy.
• Ability to work on parts of the system while maintaining water supply.
• Incoporation of a borehole supply at a later date (Maybe not so late!).
• Automated changeover of pump operation.
• Automated bypass in event of power failure.
• Other stuff I can't think about because it's too hot.

Next, based on the above list,I sat down and made up a Piping and Instrument Diagram (Henceforth known as a P&ID), which I glanced over and modified over the next few weeks, then I laid a concrete pad with pipe ducts and an access pit, and I built a little hut to house the tanks, pump, controls, and a nest of valves. I made my list of materials and when the money was avialable I went and did a little shopping. I took only two days after the preparation work to install the new 500 litre tank and 75% of the pipework, then early the next day I went for it, I removed the old tank and pump, leaving us without water, and moved the old equipment to their new home.

The end result is that I have two 500 litre tanks, a pump, enough valves to isolate sections of the system without shutting the whole thing down, provision for a borehole supply, and a semi automated system that should maintain a water supply, except in the extreme circumstances of both a water and power failure and depleted tanks.

What I haven't yet installed (Because my local supplier didn't stock them) are the check valves that allow a measure of semi automation,but I'm going shopping in the big city tomorrow, so I hope to have those in place soon. Depending on finances, and availability of the drilling rig, I may have a borehole before the end of the month, and quite possibly a pump to shove down the hole. The two pump system will work as an either or system, with demand for more water brining in the borehole pump and inhibiing the existing surface pressurisation pump.

Almost complete.

Running water, but still some work to do.

The aforementioned P&ID

Me getting stuck in.

[sirineou]

nice work. I saved it in my favorites for reference to it when I need it. I hope TVF don't delete it after a couple of years,

Thank you for taking the time to post.

[Crossy]

nice work. I saved it in my favorites for reference to it when I need it. I hope TVF don't delete it after a couple of years,

Thank you for taking the time to post.

Nah, it will be here for all time, may be archived but never deleted.

There do seem to be a lot of pipes and valves, but incorporating redundancy does that to a system.

[ThaiKneeTim]

It looks great!

Not sure, I can not tell from the picture, I connected my pump (and all things like water filters) with connection what makes it possible to undo them without the need to cut your tubing. Now very good ones are available from PVC.

20160411_085333.jpg

Thanks for sharing! (maybe a picture from old situation availabe?)

I would have liked to incorporate a few unions, but the main component, the pump, has bolted flanges.

The check valves I'm hoping to source today will double as a union, and I can add unions at a later date if I need to replace a tank.

The pipe I fitted for the expansion vessel might be redundant, the pump is behaving much better on the larger network.

[ThaiKneeTim]

nice work. I saved it in my favorites for reference to it when I need it. I hope TVF don't delete it after a couple of years,

Thank you for taking the time to post.

Nah, it will be here for all time, may be archived but never deleted.

There do seem to be a lot of pipes and valves, but incorporating redundancy does that to a system.

Isolation valves for all the main components, a tank transfer and drain system, automatic switching to town water if the power is out (assuming there's enough pressure to reach any of the taps). Yeah, it does use a lot of valves, but they will be worth every 150 Baht spent on each one when a problem occurs.

I'm going to number all the valves and create a problem solving table for the girlfriend so that she will know which valves to close and keep the water supply operational.

[Crossy]

We have auto switch to town water when the pump power is off.

Only one tank and it's not a disaster if the water is off whilst I'm working on a leaky tap or something, so we are blessed with rather fewer valves.

I used two check valves in series (never seen a UK style double-check here) as they do have a tendency to leak slightly causing the the pump to run for a few seconds every hour or so.

[ThaiKneeTim]

I'm not sure if I have a picture of the old arrangement, it was pretty simple, and messy. I'll look through my picture archive.

[Crossy]

I used two check valves in series (never seen a UK style double-check here) as they do have a tendency to leak slightly causing the the pump to run for a few seconds every hour or so.

I am not sure if two check valve in series give the desired result? The higher the pressure difference between both sides (in blocking direction) the better they work.

Ofcourse with breaking pressure as limit.

Did you notice any improvement?

To be honest it's had two since I put it together, never had an issue with leaks on that valve pair, one valve may well do the job. But as I say, the UK would require a double anyway, old (Brit) habits die hard.

I do have a leak of the 2" check on the irrigation pump but have never bothered fixing it as we tend to only power up the pump when watering anyway.

[ThaiKneeTim]

My PVC pipework is little more than a hobby compared to the installations I used to supervise, quality check and commission. Here is a selection of the stuff I used to deal with on water traetment works.

Stifford in Essex, near the Lakeside Shopping Mall. The mall was built in the old lime workings for the cement works. The quarry used to flood, so a 4 metre diameter well was sunk, with and adit running parallel to the working face. The water pumped out and treated before entering the public water supply would otherwise have flooded the quarry. The picture shows six sand filters, with manganese to remove iron content, and the thin wall stainless steel pipework, and Rotork valve actuators. The picture was taken as part of a publicity leaflet for Rotork products.

This one is of a major set of connections on the water transfer project where it intersected with a source and reservior. The connections taking place in the picture were at the the final stages and meant major shut downs at the Sugarbrook treatment works; we're talking BIG valves here, and 27 inch mains! Buried in the ground nearby was a pressure vessel designed to absorb hydrualicing in the pumping main, not dissimilar to the function of the expansion vessels we're familiar with on home pumping systems in Thailand, just a whole lot bigger. The buried vessel is about the size of a petrol tanker trailer.

This was a new booster pumping station on the same water transfer project as in the previous photo, albiet a few miles away. The booster station had some quite large pump sets, three altogether, to give duty/assit and dual redundancy. Inverter drives controlled the speed of the pumps, with one or two pumps being called upon if needed, and a spare pump set if one other the two duty pumps failed, or one was shut down for repairs. The whole place was controlled remotely via telemetry, although I was there in person during the commissioning, with colleages at other pumping stations along the 50 or so miles of pumping main.

Now *this* is a borehole pump, it stood over 6 feet tall, and was one of three at the same site; you can see the hired crane that was used to lower the pipework and pump down the borehole. This one was dropped down 100 metres, as was another, while one went down 120 metres.

The 8 inch riser pipework for the borehole pump in the previous photograph, it was attched two lengths at a time, the scary part for me, as the site manger responsible for the procedure, was when the clamped the pipe to detach the lifting cap off the flange joint to add the nest two lengths. If it went wrong we could have lost a pump down the borehole, which preyed on my mind because that's exactly what happened just down the road at Sugarbrook, to someone else on a previous contract thank goodness!

Now perhaps you'll understand why I don't cut corners when I do a pipework installaton!!

[sappersrest]

Are those pumps bedford pumps?, The plant room looks like a swimming pool plant room similar to those I worked on.

[ThaiKneeTim]

Are those pumps bedford pumps?, The plant room looks like a swimming pool plant room similar to those I worked on.

No, they're Weir Pumps, and they're a bit big for a swimming pool, they're designed to shift large amounts of water.

[Pib]

It looks great!

Not sure, I can not tell from the picture, I connected my pump (and all things like water filters) with connection what makes it possible to undo them without the need to cut your tubing. Now very good ones are available from PVC.

20160411_085333.jpg

Thanks for sharing! (maybe a picture from old situation availabe?)

These "maintenance union" connectors can sure make life easier when doing some kind of maintenance on your water piping setup where you need to make a break in the water lines to do something. I've got three maintenance unions in my water pump and storage tank setup. Sure beats cutting your water line to do your maintenance and then resizing/cutting/gluing back in appropriately sized PVC pipe/adapters. I pay around Bt35 for these maintenance unions here in Bangkok.

Seems to be no end to different piping setups different people use...there is definitely not one standard configuration that will work well. Just two weekends ago I replaced my 850L water storage tank with a 2000L tank and to do that I had to slightly relocate my pump, reroute input and output water lines to/from the pump and tank, reroute the pump electrical power line, etc. All the rerouting was a small amount "distance-wise" but the amount of work need to say extend a PVC pipe by 20 centimeters is really no different that needing to extend it 2 meters....you still got PVC piping cutting and replacement with the appropriate sized (length and curvature ) PVC pipe and joining adapters.

I did add one new line to my setup due to the extremely low water pressure in the soi lines during the day now in my part of western Bangkok...this is the first year after being here 8 years I have experienced the problem. Pressure is so low that during most of the daylight hours it's not enough pressure to push water up to a 2 meter height to fill up my storage tank (the soi main water pressure drops to under 2psi...normally it around 10psi). I think the govt is living up to their promise to reduce pressure frequently which supposedly reduces water usage plus we've had so much construction/growth in the area maybe the water supply infrastructure is not keeping up. But so far the pressure does rise to around 5psi at night which allows the tank to refill except for a few nights. But at least there is still some water & pressure in the soi lines which my pump can suck from if the storage tank goes dry before I notice it. I have a setup where I can manually switch the pump water input between the soi main line and my storage tank in just a second or so. Yeap, my water situation in my little part of western Bangkok has went down hill this year.

Anyway, I added a water line with a cutoff/on valve "from my pump output side back to the input of my water tank" so I can refill the tank when the soi main water pressure is too low to push the water to the top of the storage tank. I no longer have to pull out a water hose, put in in the top of the tank, and then monitor the refilling process. In those infrequent situations where I have noticed there is not enough soi main water pressure and my water tank is almost empty and is not refilling from the soi main due to the pressure being too low, I just then suck directly from the soi main, throw two valves (that new valve and another valve to prevent the pump high pressure feeding back into the soi main line) to pump water back into the tank..fill it back up. And I don't have to watch the filling process to ensure I don't overfill/overflow the storage tank as the tank's internal float cut off valve stops the flow when the tank is full....even with around 40psi from the pump trying to flow in.

In this crazy water situation we are having this year, I've had to do a tank refill twice so far by feeding back water from the pump output into the tank. Adding that pump output to tank input feedback line has made refilling the tank much easier. Yeap, the water situation in Thailand sure leads to some strange water storage, piping, pumping setups. My family and friends back in the U.S. can't really understand why I have to do such a setup since all their life's they have always had water direct from the street mains at around 60psi and water is rarely cut...once in a blue moon for some quick maintenance with plenty of advance notice.

[CGW]

Nice job ThaiKneeTim, have to wonder why you went with what looks to be 1/2" swedged down from 1", my preference is to go with 3/4" all the way to the outlet, less friction/higher flow rates?

[ThaiKneeTim]

Nice job ThaiKneeTim, have to wonder why you went with what looks to be 1/2" swedged down from 1", my preference is to go with 3/4" all the way to the outlet, less friction/higher flow rates?

The only place where I went from 1/2" to 1" was the bypass from the town water supply to my pressurised network. Everything on our private network is 1" right up to a Tee where water divided between our existing home/hairdressing salon and the branch laid ready for the new house.

There is a 1 1/2" pipe fitted ready for the borehole pumped supply, that reduces to 1" either side of the Tee to feed each of the two 500 litre tanks. When the borehole pump is running the system pump will be inhibited and the borehole will supply the network. Demand for the borehole pump will be controlled by a float switch in the tanks, interchangeable between the two in case one of the tanks is out of commission.

The aim was to do away with the need to use hosepipes and buckets and have a system that is as automated as possible.

Later I hope to be able to have a rainwater harvesting system for irrigation, but the ability to fill from the borehole supply if necessary, and possibly use rainwater if we're in fire straights with town and borehole supplies.

[ThaiKneeTim]

It looks great!

Not sure, I can not tell from the picture, I connected my pump (and all things like water filters) with connection what makes it possible to undo them without the need to cut your tubing. Now very good ones are available from PVC.

20160411_085333.jpg

Thanks for sharing! (maybe a picture from old situation availabe?)

These "maintenance union" connectors can sure make life easier when doing some kind of maintenance on your water piping setup where you need to make a break in the water lines to do something. I've got three maintenance unions in my water pump and storage tank setup. Sure beats cutting your water line to do your maintenance and then resizing/cutting/gluing back in appropriately sized PVC pipe/adapters. I pay around Bt35 for these maintenance unions here in Bangkok.

As previously stated, the main component, the pump, has bolted flanges that negate the need for unions, and the tanks have a 20 year guarantee. If I do need to replace a tank I'm not expecting the inlets and outlets to be in the same place, so some pipework modifications will be needed anyway.

I wanted to leave plenty of pipework available for modifications/repairs, so cluttering up the installation with superfluous unions would have limited my options.

[Pib]

I too also just unbolt the pump's metal input and output flanges when needing to remove the pump. My three mx unions are used for a water filter on the soi main line to the water tank (two mx unions there) and another mx union on the water storage tank input in planning for a future modification.

I had thought about putting a mx union on the water storage tank output also but didn't for some reason....I think I may have been a little concerned about pump vibration slowly loosening the union and small leak developing...of course it only takes a few seconds to tighten it up to stop the leak hopefully. In hindsight I kinda wish I had installed a maintenance union right after the tank output...oh well. If/when I need to remove the water storage tank which I hope will not be for many, many years (which would also require complete tank draining) I'll probably put a mx union there also...in my setup (everyone's is different) the mx union will need to go right after the tank output but before the backflow valve and cutoff valve to the pump input and there is not a lot of room to fit a mx union in that spot but I'm sure I can. But needing to move the tank is like an event that usually only occurs when it's time to replace it....when it comes time to do that it will only take a few minutes to install a mx union.

Or if the drought gets so bad in Thailand the soi main water line and my storage tanks water goes dry that would be a good time to install the mx union just before dying of thirst and smelling so bad due to not being able to take a shower. And in closing, tinkering with your water pump/storage tank setup gives a person a little bit of pride (sometimes a periodic hobby) in making their water supply situation a little better.

[kannot]

Nice pipework cant find anyone decent here to do anything......yet?

Heres mine, 85m bore Franklin pump pumps thru check valve into 200lit pressure tank (Grundfos) then goes straight into the house thru the BLACK (no joints) hdpe 1 inch for about 50 metres.

If electric goes off I have about 8 toilet flushed worth in a full tank and then i just close the bottom right tap and open the top left to go onto the village supply which I have pre filtered as it enters the land as its full of cack. I use 1 inch pipe almost everywhere right into the houses before reducing to half inch.

Thai plastic pipework is about as simple as u can get yet they still ferrrrk it up.

All housed in my "water house" which i also had to build with a detachable roof to pull the pump if ever a problem.........along with everything else here

Edited April 14, 2016 by kannot

[ThaiKneeTim]

Nice pipework cant find anyone decent here to do anything......yet?

Heres mine, 85m bore Franklin pump pumps thru check valve into 200lit pressure tank (Grundfos) then goes straight into the house thru the BLACK (no joints) hdpe 1 inch for about 50 metres.

If electric goes off I have about 8 toilet flushed worth in a full tank and then i just close the bottom right tap and open the top left to go onto the village supply which I have pre filtered as it enters the land as its full of cack. I use 1 inch pipe almost everywhere right into the houses before reducing to half inch.

Thai plastic pipework is about as simple as u can get yet they still ferrrrk it up.

All housed in my "water house" which i also had to build with a detachable roof to pull the pump if ever a problem.........along with everything else here

Neat, and a lot more room to work than I've allowed for. The locals around here think I'm crazy for building a place for pumps and tanks at all, and the concept of designing in by-pass for back-up in case of failures goes right over their heads.

Prime concern for locals when designing is cost. Use the cheapest equipment available, don't even consider what would happen if you need to work on the system, and use the shortest route between components to save a metre of pipe, even if it means pipework at all sorts of angles!

No value is placed on convenience, they'd rather fetch water by the bucket than put a tap where it's needed, in fact some homes locally have one tap in the front yard and a well with path between it and wherever they use water.

When I arrived this year I found the gf washing customers hair with the garden hose, she had to trot around to the tap out back to turn on each time she needed to do a hair wash or rinse due off. For about 500 Baht I've installed the pipework and a decent tap with shower head so that the salon at least looks professional.

The bathroom, like the cooking room, is always a dodgy looking structure with the most primitive of facilities. One friend of her indoors was aghast at seeing our washing machine in the kitchen, she was most insistent that it should be outside. And they wonder why their machines don't last long!

[kannot]

Nice pipework cant find anyone decent here to do anything......yet?

Heres mine, 85m bore Franklin pump pumps thru check valve into 200lit pressure tank (Grundfos) then goes straight into the house thru the BLACK (no joints) hdpe 1 inch for about 50 metres.

If electric goes off I have about 8 toilet flushed worth in a full tank and then i just close the bottom right tap and open the top left to go onto the village supply which I have pre filtered as it enters the land as its full of cack. I use 1 inch pipe almost everywhere right into the houses before reducing to half inch.

Thai plastic pipework is about as simple as u can get yet they still ferrrrk it up.

All housed in my "water house" which i also had to build with a detachable roof to pull the pump if ever a problem.........along with everything else here

Neat, and a lot more room to work than I've allowed for. The locals around here think I'm crazy for building a place for pumps and tanks at all, and the concept of designing in by-pass for back-up in case of failures goes right over their heads.

Prime concern for locals when designing is cost. Use the cheapest equipment available, don't even consider what would happen if you need to work on the system, and use the shortest route between components to save a metre of pipe, even if it means pipework at all sorts of angles!

No value is placed on convenience, they'd rather fetch water by the bucket than put a tap where it's needed, in fact some homes locally have one tap in the front yard and a well with path between it and wherever they use water.

When I arrived this year I found the gf washing customers hair with the garden hose, she had to trot around to the tap out back to turn on each time she needed to do a hair wash or rinse due off. For about 500 Baht I've installed the pipework and a decent tap with shower head so that the salon at least looks professional.

The bathroom, like the cooking room, is always a dodgy looking structure with the most primitive of facilities. One friend of her indoors was aghast at seeing our washing machine in the kitchen, she was most insistent that it should be outside. And they wonder why their machines don't last long!

Sounds "normal"

The blanked off bit of pipe on the right side is for a pressure relief valve which I havent yet fitted Its set at 5 bar. Pump kicks on at 2 bar and off at 3.5 off or 30psi on and off about 50 psi with tank pressure at 28 psi ... 2 psi below kick in pressure

Yes COST is the overall deciding factor here but the worst things is when you tell them COST is not important to you and to use best materials for long term reliability they still will buy 5 bar pressure thin wall pipe/cheap glue and tell u how much they have "saved" you ....doh!!!!!!!!

Ive found this pipe jointing compound here in BKK very useful as some of those threaded joints ( with awful threads) can occasionally not seal well, I smear some of this stuff on and thats the end of that problem

Edited April 14, 2016 by kannot

[Pib]

On some connections teflon/PTFE/sealant tape just won't hack the mission even on a low pressure connection no matter how much teflon tape you wrap around the connection...you will need pipe dope/joint compound (not to be confused with PVC glue). Happened to me very recently in downsizing from the 2 inch brass threaded outlet on my water storage tank to a 1 inch PVC connector...after two tries with teflon tape (plenty) I still had a very small leak and the water pressure was less than 3psi at the bottom of the storage tank. And another thing about teflon tape you should never unloosen a joint connection to make an alignment correction as that can break the teflon tape seal due to the nature of the tape in the threads.

So, I got some non-hardening sealant---worked like a charm...no leak....been two weeks now. I even used the sealant in two spare connectors just so I could take the connectors apart in a few days or weeks to see if the sealant has hardened or remained soft as advertised...after two weeks the sealant in that test connectors is still just as soft and pliable as day one. And since this particular sealant ins an anti fungicide type I should turn green with algae growth in the connection.

For me, I'm had zero luck in finding pipe dope/joint compound in stores like Homepro, Global, etc., like shown in kannot's post above....just bad luck I guess. Tons of teflon tape and PVC pipe glue but no pipe dope. So, what I ended up getting at Homepro was a tube of 100% RTV Fungicide Silicone Rubber by Xtraseal primarily because it was "non-hardening" (stays soft for it's lifetime). See below image...cost about Bt85.

And important point regarding a pipe dope you really want the non-lubricant and non-hardening type. It should be a non-lubricant type for PVC connectors as a lubricant sealant can just increase the possibility of over-tightening and cracking PVC joints which is much, much less of a problem on metal to metal joints. See below snapshot and docs more info. Yeap, even the simple joining of plumbing connections is not so simple sometimes...got some science behind it to avoid immediate and future leaks.

AvoidThreads (4).pdf

[Pib]

Yes COST is the overall deciding factor here but the worst things is when you tell them COST is not important to you and to use best materials for long term reliability they still will buy 5 bar pressure thin wall pipe/cheap glue and tell u how much they have "saved" you ....doh!!!!!!!!

I hear you...when I go visit my MIL and other in-laws and friends out in the province they use PVC piping rated at 5 bars/72psi working pressure simply due to cost I guess. Now 5 bars is really more than enough for them as their soi water line or water pumps don't run at more than 2 bars/30psi Fortunately my house was built with 13.5 bar/196psi piping although I have sinned in replacing few short pieces of above ground water hose tap with 8.5 bar/123psi piping since I didn't have any 13.5 bar piping on hand when I had to make a quick repair.

While even 5 bar PVC piping is plenty for most any Thai home since water pressure used is low compared to the western world, it is much easier to crack/break from external physical stress (bending it, stepping on it, ground sinking, etc) than the higher 8.5 and 13.5 bar PVC pipe, which really don't cost that much more than 5 bar piping. Buy hey I'm a rich farang and can afford the 13.5 bar piping.

[CGW]

As noted Thai threads are not of the highest quality! they are supposed to cut to a BSP thread form, think they are made by the same people that make the PTFE tape to increase sales, they are well able to resist any form of sealing without a lot of tape or pipe dope! liquid PTFE is my preference but as stated hard to find here.

I work in a industry where teflon tape is not allowed so always feels alien to me to be putting 15 wraps of tape on a fitting in the hope it will seal! you do change the shear points on the threads with so much tape but with the low pressures we are talking about its not significant, why they cant just cut them correctly in the first place? I used to think I had got a bad batch of fitting until I realised they were all bad!

[Pib]

A good (and short) article regarding the use of sealing compound or Teflon tape on pipe threads.

What thread sealant to use with PVC fittings!

[Pib]

Partial quote from Lasco Fittings, Inc., a maker of pipe fittings such as PVC fittings. Basically use a proper sealant for PVC threads (the proper sealant is described below). But when you read the whole article it's assuming good quality fittings are being used with accurate thread dimensions which minimizes the need for any sealant. Full article at the weblink below and a partial quote below

http://www.lascofittings.com/threads

Don't use Teflon tape, Teflon paste or pipe dope. Do use a sealant.

Teflon tape, Teflon paste and pipe dope is intended for metal pipe and fittings. Metal to metal fitting joints are more difficult to tighten than plastic; the surfaces tend to gall without the aid of such lubricants as Teflon or pipe dope. Plastic fittings do not need this lubrication.

When Teflon tape is wrapped around plastic male threads it adds to the strain and tensile stress. The tendency of most installers is to incorrectly wrap several thickness of tape around the male threads, increasing stain and stress further.

Teflon paste and pipe dope, just like Teflon tape, make threaded joints slippery. Their use on PVC fittings can be an invitation to over-torque.

When working with threaded plastic fittings do use a proper sealant. The right sealant for threaded joints is non-hardening, compatible with plastic and doesn't add slipperiness.

A non-hardening compound is forced by water pressure into potential points of leakage, thereby performing a true sealing function. Tapes and hardening pastes permit a leak path to develop when a joint is backed off, mechanically flexed, or expands with rising temperatures.

A sealing compound must be compatible to plastics. Many brands of pipe sealant contain oils, solvents or carriers that can damage plastic. A proper sealant must be certified by the manufacturer to be harmless to the fitting material and to not contaminate fluid in the pipe.

Finally, a sealing compound must not lubricate the joint to the point that over-tightening is encouraged. Several sealants on the market meet all these requirements.