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Classic (Meriden) Triumphs & Parts in Thailand?


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Hoping for some local knowledge.

Are there any parts dealers selling Classic Triumph parts in Thailand?

I personally have a 1977 Triumph 750 T140V Bonneville which I'm restoring and an always use spare parts.

Also, are there any stainless steel nut/bolt/washer suppliers?

Looking for various stainless steel UNF thread fasteners to replace the old cadmium plated Triumph fasteners.

Cheers

R

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Parts:- No. Zilch. Nada. Nothing.

SS fasteners. I have found a great nut and bolt shop in Udon city, pretty much everything inc BSW, UNF and UNC, and obviously metric, but not BSF. BZP, and S/S. All different head styles. I'm pretty sure BKK or other large cities will have similar shops.

If ordering from the UK, and you can keep the package weight down to below 2kgs, insured signed for post to here is very reasonable (£15), and you are not paying the ridiculous 20% VAT. Otherwise, it's bring parts back in the suitcase jobbie.

Has the bike got a plate and book?

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Parts:- No. Zilch. Nada. Nothing.

SS fasteners. I have found a great nut and bolt shop in Udon city, pretty much everything inc BSW, UNF and UNC, and obviously metric, but not BSF. BZP, and S/S. All different head styles. I'm pretty sure BKK or other large cities will have similar shops.

If ordering from the UK, and you can keep the package weight down to below 2kgs, insured signed for post to here is very reasonable (£15), and you are not paying the ridiculous 20% VAT. Otherwise, it's bring parts back in the suitcase jobbie.

Has the bike got a plate and book?

Hi T G.

It's a U.S. model with matching frame/engine numbers.

Currently in Oz.

No plates or book, but have a bill of sale.

I'm coming over for a Buddhist retreat and after this was hoping to gather some parts from LOS.

This place in Udon, what's the name and address?

Do they charge Thai prices or World prices?

When you said "not S/S" does this mean no stainless steel?

Cheers

R

post-55028-0-30829400-1463891991_thumb.j

Edited by rockyysdt
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Hi, I had a '76 T140v & '81 T140e so well used to sourcing parts. After being in Thailand a decade, I'd suggest you will have better luck getting part from UK or USA rattan than LOS.

Thanks D.

Just scouting ahead.

I know now not to waste anytime.

If I can source UNF stainless steel nuts & bolts whilst in LOS, it would be pretty handy.

Especially if they're at Thai prices.

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I've got a T100c and got parts from Classic British Motorcycles UK via Glynn Healey(he's their authorised Thai distributor)and also a really good bike restorer etc. CBM will only ship to Glynn and he will then EMS any parts to you.

He doing a cracking job on mine,not finished yet. But I've already got plans for a Triton or more likely here a Tribsa(got a T120r engine to rebuild soon).

As mentioned,anything under 2kgs is cheaper to ship. You can PM me for contact details

Cheers

P.S of anyone knows of a rolling frame etc or one needing a total rebuild,please contact me.

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# I did'nt say "not S/S", i said "not BSF" - British Std Fine.

# The bike is in Oz. As someone who has owned and worked on British bikes for the last 35 years, my suggestion would be to get friendly with your nearest/favourite Brit bike shop in Oz. Buy everything from them, get specialist work done sourced through them or by them. There is a HUGE classic Brit bike scene in OZ and NZ, as there is in the US and UK. I doubt you would be wanting for any parts nor work over there.

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Oh, and the S/S fasteners here are good, but i would'nt call them grade A. Metric is cheap, but UNF/UNC is not much cheaper than UK prices. AS i just said in the post above, earn some brownie points with your local Oz Brit bike shop and source everything through them.

My 2 bahts worth...

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Oh, and the S/S fasteners here are good, but i would'nt call them grade A. Metric is cheap, but UNF/UNC is not much cheaper than UK prices. AS i just said in the post above, earn some brownie points with your local Oz Brit bike shop and source everything through them.

My 2 bahts worth...

Thanks T G.

I try not to leave any stone un turned.

Hence my scouting ahead for my next Thai trip.

In terms of stainless steel nuts/bolts/washers, I find if you associate anything with the word motorcycle, prices sky rocket.

A highly recommended British motorcycle supplier will sell you a Norton stainless fastener kit for AUS$900.

A lot of money for just a few fasteners.

If you hunt around for s/s manufacturers and suppliers there a huge savings to be had.

I've found there a some retailers who do very little business in UNF.

They'll carry remnants from a bygone era, and only too keen to offload their stock.

I've already collected some nominal sizes for a song.

Restoration can take a long time.

I'll only rush to a Motorcycle S/S supplier as a last measure.

I'll be passing through Udon Thani at some point.

Would love the details of this Udon s/s supplier.

BTW, I love your ride.

The 500cc twin is some ride.

Edited by rockyysdt
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# I have no name(s), adress or tel no. However, when you are nearer the date and in the vicinity, pm me or resurrect this thread and i'll give you simple directions.

# Mine's in bits at the moment. Collected the parts over the last two years to "detune" her. Gone back to 30mm std new Concentrics from 34mm MK II's, std valve sizes, inc new 3 angle seats, 1/2 race instead of full race cams. JMC alloy s/arm gone and replaced with a stock Triumph item albeit nickel plated. Mini Lucas going back u'neath the rear mudguard instead of billet lights on the side. etc etc

Before;

post-139129-0-28351200-1464063157_thumb.

post-139129-0-66062100-1464063202_thumb.

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Currently;

New s/arm and bushes in place, back to a stock 47T rear sprocket. Both h/bar m/cylinders (clutch and brake) need a rebuild, parts already in stock.

post-139129-0-41414900-1464063447_thumb.

C/head c/w new 3 angle valve seats is ready to go. Need to make 4 new In manifolds for the new smaller carbs. Primary belt is aged cracked, and i need to buy a new one. Not bad for 21-22 years old.

post-139129-0-01873000-1464063614_thumb.

Nice shiny timing wheels. Ridiculous Morgo rotary pump is more than likely not going back on.

post-139129-0-33000200-1464063763_thumb.

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Very special c/cases. D/S main bearing housing strengthened. G/box sprkt access converted to take 21T sprkts.

post-139129-0-42269500-1464064025_thumb.

Very special crank and rods. Don't even ask what i could sell that crank for on ebay today (reserve would be £1500...)

post-139129-0-56461100-1464064153_thumb.

This is a very rare "Full Circle" Weslake 89mm stroker crank. Nitrided billet steel. Heavy. Very. The later billet steel Nourish cranks are a full triangular flywheel and hence lighter. Rods are, ahem, obviously Carillo. But not long rod 6 1/2" 650. Not short rod 6" 750. But one offs using Norton centre to centres of 5 7/8"... Mains are Norton Superblends c/w end float.

post-139129-0-57605600-1464064266_thumb.

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Nice 3 angle valve job, std size seats now, (done in the UK- Somchai does not work on my Triumph stuff)...

post-139129-0-80467900-1464064725_thumb.

New cams, no silly duration like the previous full race versions, but good lift. Basically similar to 68-73 650 cams.

post-139129-0-48869500-1464064831_thumb.

Whoops. TY 250 Mono barrel slipped in this topic. Juggling several jobs at once inc sourcing a loud top end on said Trials bike. Good bore, good piston, acceptable rings. Shagged s/end brg.

post-139129-0-69325500-1464064936_thumb.

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Nice 3 angle valve job, std size seats now, (done in the UK- Somchai does not work on my Triumph stuff)...

attachicon.gif2016-05-16 15.40.14.jpg

New cams, no silly duration like the previous full race versions, but good lift. Basically similar to 68-73 650 cams.

attachicon.gif2016-05-18 16.51.00.jpg

Whoops. TY 250 Mono barrel slipped in this topic. Juggling several jobs at once inc sourcing a loud top end on said Trials bike. Good bore, good piston, acceptable rings. Shagged s/end brg.

attachicon.gif2016-05-15 15.01.16.jpg

Me too,having my T120r head restored in the UK. Unleaded valves,new guides,collets,springs etc and it needed a light skim. I may rebuild the rockets as well.

I'll probably rebuild the engine as standard,it has std pistons etc now. Just want it to be as reliable as possible,my suitcase will be full next time!.

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Not sure what I think of changing the bolts and such to metric. Personally, I think I'd stick with Wentworth. Nor am I sure that I'd want to spend much money on fasteners in Thailand, but that's another subject.

These things said, I used to do a lot of business with these guys operating up in Canada.

http://www.walridge.com/

Click link for catalogue. Bolts are on pages 162-164. I'm not seeing a price list on the site. You could email them and ask if they have one. Regardless, prices are displayed when you enter a part number on the order page and search for it. For example, part number 04017S/S is a 1/4 x " CEI bolt. Price is $2.94, Canadian. I'm unsure of the rate when Canadian dollars and Australian dollars are swapped.

I was always happy doing business with Waldridge, and always considered there rates fair. Many other parts available, of course, and perhaps useful in a restoration effort. Always nice to have a catalogue to browse through.

Good luck!

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Nice 3 angle valve job, std size seats now, (done in the UK- Somchai does not work on my Triumph stuff)...

attachicon.gif2016-05-16 15.40.14.jpg

New cams, no silly duration like the previous full race versions, but good lift. Basically similar to 68-73 650 cams.

attachicon.gif2016-05-18 16.51.00.jpg

Whoops. TY 250 Mono barrel slipped in this topic. Juggling several jobs at once inc sourcing a loud top end on said Trials bike. Good bore, good piston, acceptable rings. Shagged s/end brg.

attachicon.gif2016-05-15 15.01.16.jpg

Me too,having my T120r head restored in the UK. Unleaded valves,new guides,collets,springs etc and it needed a light skim. I may rebuild the rockets as well.

I'll probably rebuild the engine as standard,it has std pistons etc now. Just want it to be as reliable as possible,my suitcase will be full next time!.

Just check the weight of the pistons. They are sold as a pair, and it's not a rarity if they out. An 1/8th of an ounce (3.5 grams) difference and you will have a shaker. The worst we ever had was a pair of T140 Hepolite pistons a 1/4 of an oz out.!! That's 7 grams difference on a pair of pistons going up and down simultaneously. No wonder people used to complain about Brit twins and vibration. Balance to within one gram and you'll be fine.

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Nice 3 angle valve job, std size seats now, (done in the UK- Somchai does not work on my Triumph stuff)...

attachicon.gif2016-05-16 15.40.14.jpg

New cams, no silly duration like the previous full race versions, but good lift. Basically similar to 68-73 650 cams.

attachicon.gif2016-05-18 16.51.00.jpg

Whoops. TY 250 Mono barrel slipped in this topic. Juggling several jobs at once inc sourcing a loud top end on said Trials bike. Good bore, good piston, acceptable rings. Shagged s/end brg.

attachicon.gif2016-05-15 15.01.16.jpg

Me too,having my T120r head restored in the UK. Unleaded valves,new guides,collets,springs etc and it needed a light skim. I may rebuild the rockets as well.

I'll probably rebuild the engine as standard,it has std pistons etc now. Just want it to be as reliable as possible,my suitcase will be full next time!.

Just check the weight of the pistons. They are sold as a pair, and it's not a rarity if they out. An 1/8th of an ounce (3.5 grams) difference and you will have a shaker. The worst we ever had was a pair of T140 Hepolite pistons a 1/4 of an oz out.!! That's 7 grams difference on a pair of pistons going up and down simultaneously. No wonder people used to complain about Brit twins and vibration. Balance to within one gram and you'll be fine.

Thank you,I like bikes and know enough to be dangerous. ;-)

For what I've see and read your posts,you've been doing this a long time and done some great mods on your Triumph.

Cheers

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Thanx Maz3.

Any queries or probs relating to your T120, just ask or pm me. On the unit 500s (T100, 5TA) i'm not that genned up.

Ive built more 650, 750 motors than i've had hot dinners blah blah.

Mike.

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Thanx Maz3.

Any queries or probs relating to your T120, just ask or pm me. On the unit 500s (T100, 5TA) i'm not that genned up.

Ive built more 650, 750 motors than i've had hot dinners blah blah.

Mike.

Thanks Mike,

I may well take you up on your kind offer.

Regards Paul

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Here's another one. Your box of Hepolite pistons. Two inside. You'd think they weigh the same - discussed above.

You'd think they are sized right - not always...

The engine rebore shop or ourselves/yourself would mic BOTH pistons and size EACH bore to suit, marking an A and B piston and bore. Quite common on Far East or British made pistons to have half a thou (0.0005") difference in skirt diameter, and then owners wonder why one piston is a sloppy fit, if the shop has only mic'd one piston and assumed both are the same.

Does'nt happen on USA made pistons, they are always exactly what they say on the box.

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Here's another one. Your box of Hepolite pistons. Two inside. You'd think they weigh the same - discussed above.

You'd think they are sized right - not always...

The engine rebore shop or ourselves/yourself would mic BOTH pistons and size EACH bore to suit, marking an A and B piston and bore. Quite common on Far East or British made pistons to have half a thou (0.0005") difference in skirt diameter, and then owners wonder why one piston is a sloppy fit, if the shop has only mic'd one piston and assumed both are the same.

Does'nt happen on USA made pistons, they are always exactly what they say on the box.

Thanks for the info,it's a 1967 T120R engine. Imported from the States,taken the head and barrel off and looks so clean inside(cams unmarked) and everything's STD. Might just need honing and new rings etc.

I wonder if it was crashed just after a rebuild,but I'll have it stripped down and inspected.

Sorry getting a bit off subject,but linked to buying classic parts.

Cheers

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I searched in vain for a competant machine shop. No luck. Took crank and cylinders back to N. America. Had new rods installed, and the rotating assembly balanced to the n-th degree. Pistons weight matched to be exactly the same. Honed the cylinders after boring to correct size. Great engine, smooth, powerful. Also used a degree wheel to ensure the cam card matched the cams themselves - just being anal I know but I like to know it is perfect when I button up the engine. This was on a Twin Cam - so a bit off topic. But rebuild is rebuild, and the same rules apply. Good luck with yours.

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