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Freak accident kills farmer as tire explodes in his face


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2 hours ago, transam said:

You buy a cheap 12V compressor and separate gauge at Tesco's, around 1000bht..

Check pressures first thing in the morning so tyres are cold to the correct pressures which are shown on a sticker on the drivers side door jam.

Pressures INCREASE when the ride is used when the tyres warm up..

 

 

 

Just adding to the conversation here, the information in the sticker on the driver's door jam show pressures under different conditions - normal load and heavy load, for example. Make sure the tyres are inflated accordingly. In any case, the pressures shown on the sticker are what we call 'cold pressure' i.e the tyre is at ambient temperature. The best way to do it is inflate your tyres in the evening or at night - go a few PSI above specification, don't worry about it. For example, if manufacturer sticker says 32PSI, dial the station pump up to 34PSI and inflate. Don't measure your tyre pressures just then. Check it the next morning - best if your vehicle is in a shaded area and not exposed to the sun. Invest in a good pressure gauge - these things aren't very expensive, pay more for better accuracy. Check the pressures in the morning, and release the air to bring pressures down to manufacturer's specification. Simple.

 

If you can, check your pressures every few days. Why so frequent? Because you will be able to detect slow leaks this way. If you find one tyre to be extremely low in pressure compared with the rest, you know there's a problem. Check for nails etc. It could also be a faulty air valve. You normally will not feel the difference if one tyre is underinflated, especially if it's a slow leak. Problem is, a severely underinflated tyre will also 'explode' especially during high-speeds. Low pressure increases the tyre's contact patch with the road surface, more than it was designed for, and this increases friction and heat beyond what the tyre is designed to handle. It will get to a point where it's so hot, the tyre bacisally fails and it will just 'come apart' - what we call 'delaminate'. Sometimes, when you drive along the expressways, you see shards of tyres on the side of the road - that is what a delaminated tyre looks like.

 

If your cold pressures are according to the manufacturer's specification, then you needn't worry about how high the pressure is when it's hot. Pressure in a tyre goes up by 4 - 5 PSI under very hot and perhaps maybe even vigorous/high-speed driving conditions, but if you follow manufacturer's cold pressure levels, you will be safe, because no matter how hot it gets, it will only increase the pressure by 4-5PSI, and that is nowhere near the max pressure. Also, tyre manufacturers check tyres' integrity at pressures way, way above max pressure during the manufacturing process. Definitely way above max safe pressure which, by the way, can be found on the sidewall of the tyre.

 

Hope the above helped.

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6 hours ago, joepattaya1961 said:

Tyre-pressure........as soon as a bike-repair guy starts filling up my tyres I  step away.

Those people fill up until the compressor can't cope anymore.

But for cars it's similar. There are only a few people who respect the prescribed tyre pressure of approx. 20-23, but most go to 30-35 (is it psi?)

 

 

Tyre pressures aren't dictated by size and type. Tractor tyres can run with much less pressure than car tyres. But PSI means per square inch, so when they blow, they blow. For large tractor tyres, lorry tyres, etc, there should - certainly used to be - a cage in which to place the tyre before inflating it.

 

Some years ago, there was a case in the U.K. where a tractor tyre explosion left nothing of the farmer except some surface evidence on the ceiling.

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5 hours ago, daveAustin said:

 

This also happens in the UK and other places and is a clear case of human error. Surprised it doesn't happen more here. RIP all the same. 

Just a few months ago, I came across a video collage of about 10-15 exploding tires--all in Asia (appeared to be mostly China and Southeast Asia).  It wasn't gory, because most of the victims were blown completely out of camera range.  

So, not so rare.  In fact, I'd take issue with the title of this thread "freak accident..."   It probably just isn't reported as often as it actually happens.  

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2 hours ago, Just1Voice said:

I take long trips on my CB300f and Forza 300cc. The FIRST thing I do before starting the engine us to check tire pressure. If it's at the correct setting, I DEFLATE it by 2 psi. I might drive for 4 to 8 hours at a time, and the last thing I want is a blow out from over inflated tires at 120kph on the Forza, or 140-150kph on the CB300f. 

 

Of course I could be wrong but I believe that what you are doing is not necessary. If the cold pressure is correct the manufacturer is certainly expecting you to do more than drive to 7 for milk.

 

2 psi is not much so little harm done, if any.

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3 hours ago, Just1Voice said:

I take long trips on my CB300f and Forza 300cc. The FIRST thing I do before starting the engine us to check tire pressure. If it's at the correct setting, I DEFLATE it by 2 psi. I might drive for 4 to 8 hours at a time, and the last thing I want is a blow out from over inflated tires at 120kph on the Forza, or 140-150kph on the CB300f. 

 

Where are you doing those speeds? 

 

Would be more worried about the 300s engine blowing up after the last recall. :(

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12 minutes ago, wow64 said:

 

Where are you doing those speeds? 

 

Would be more worried about the 300s engine blowing up after the last recall. :(

I was one of the first to get mine in to have crank & bearings replaced.

As for where I do those speeds....wide open highways, when there is little to no traffic.

 

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3 hours ago, vincent13 said:

The Bridgestone Duelers on my Vigo state 50 PSI cold. I have always inflated to 40 PSI and never had a problem with handling in wet or dry conditions or with uneven tyre wear. The back tyres have done about 85,000 km.

 

Dang man you don't go by what the sidewall of the tire says the max psi is.

 

Sheesh 

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1 hour ago, vincent13 said:

 

Apologies, I inadvertently misled you.

It's a Hilux Tiger 4WD - don't know where I got Vigo from!

The tyres say 31x10.50R15LT.

The sticker inside the door is in Thai and makes little sense to me. It does have figures of 28(1.9) and 35(2.5).

Obviously I'm a novice when it comes to tyres. As I said before though, no uneven wear after 85,000 km on rear tyres (they were formerly on the front).

 

 

lmao 28 psi 1.9 bar front and 35 psi 2.5 bar rear. 

 

Just because you have even wear (Doubt it) does not mean you can safely run too much pressure. Sidewall bulge, blowout, all can happen. Then your next thread on TV will be "OMG These Cheap Thai Tires!!"

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18 minutes ago, Just1Voice said:

I was one of the first to get mine in to have crank & bearings replaced.

As for where I do those speeds....wide open highways, when there is little to no traffic.

 

Crank and bearings replaced for sustained 150kph? 

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1 hour ago, Bantex said:

As Jonmarleesco said, for tractor and lorry tyres, a cage should be used especially if inflating to high pressures.

 

IMG_1797.JPG

My old grandad used to be a tyre fitter in his younger days. He decided to rush a lorry tyre one day and did the initial inflation without the cage. His bad luck when it exploded and broke his leg in the process.

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27 minutes ago, Strange said:

 

Crank and bearings replaced for sustained 150kph? 

I don't do a "sustained" 150. Most of the time I cruise at 110-115. Only run it up to 150 for a few klm, less than 5.  I raced bikes when I was a teen. I know what I'm doing, when I can push it, and how hard I can push it.  And the last thing I am is careless. Trust me on that one.

 

 

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Just now, Just1Voice said:
32 minutes ago, Strange said:

Crank and bearings replaced for sustained 150kph? 

I don't do a "sustained" 150. Most of the time I cruise at 110-115. Only run it up to 150 for a few klm, less than 5.  I raced bikes when I was a teen. I know what I'm doing, when I can push it, and how hard I can push it.  And the last thing I am is careless. Trust me on that one.

 

OK but what caused the failure? Why the crank and bearings? 

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1 hour ago, Strange said:

 

OK but what caused the failure? Why the crank and bearings? 

Apparently Honda installed crank & bearings in ALL 300cc models that turned out to be defective. As soon as they realised it, they did an immediate recall to replace them, sending text messages to all purchasers, and dealers. I know the Head Mech at my dealer personally, and he told me Not to drive it in, they would send a truck for it. Apparently a few cranks failed, locked up the engine, and caused a few accidents. 

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9 hours ago, joepattaya1961 said:

Tyre-pressure........as soon as a bike-repair guy starts filling up my tyres I  step away.

Those people fill up until the compressor can't cope anymore.

But for cars it's similar. There are only a few people who respect the prescribed tyre pressure of approx. 20-23, but most go to 30-35 (is it psi?)

 

 

Many years ago in PapuaNewGuinea, l was a workshop Supervisor.

ln the trucks feeding our Stone Crusher we inflated the tyres to 80psi.

l had new tyres fitted to my company vehicle & on going into town to pick up spare parts, l could feel the car bouncing all over the road.

So l had the tyres checked in town & found that our tyre fitter had inflated them to 80psi, the same as our trucks!

l honestly did not think that a standard car tyre could take that much pressure & very nervously deflated them to 30psi.

Our fault, l guess, as no-one had given the worker a tyre chart & a lot of our people were not long removed from the Stone Age.

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1 hour ago, Just1Voice said:
2 hours ago, Strange said:

OK but what caused the failure? Why the crank and bearings? 

Apparently Honda installed crank & bearings in ALL 300cc models that turned out to be defective. As soon as they realised it, they did an immediate recall to replace them, sending text messages to all purchasers, and dealers. I know the Head Mech at my dealer personally, and he told me Not to drive it in, they would send a truck for it. Apparently a few cranks failed, locked up the engine, and caused a few accidents. 

 

Ah ok then a manufacture error. Thought it was another one of those "Dont go over 100kph or engine will blow" posts. 

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10 hours ago, trogers said:

 

Prescribed tyre pressure are for cold conditions. One would have to fill to a higher pressure during a journey.

 

 

The Prescribed tyre pressure, is to be used for all given temperatures of operation. 

It is to be used for the life of the tyre.

The pressure stated by the tyre manufacturer should not be altered because you are going on a trip.

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12 hours ago, trogers said:

 

Prescribed tyre pressure are for cold conditions. One would have to fill to a higher pressure during a journey.

The tyre pressure recommended are for a "cold" tyre - not a tyre that has just come in off the highway which will naturally be at a higher pressure resulting from the increased operating temperature. A tyre at high temperature will naturally show a higher pressure if checked- hence the recommendation to check the tyres cold and at the recommended pressure.

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10 hours ago, dddave said:

I was thinking the same...not an uncommon event worldwide in truck tire shops.

Split rims in the US were responsible for so many accidents at tire shops that the use of a steel "cage" became mandatory when working on such wheel rims.

 

Before I am corrected and scolded that it was human error if you Google split rims you will see just how difficult they can be to deal with. Just too  many variables can cause them to  react violently. Even when the best of the best tire shop hands are working on them.

 

I am  very careful and use gauges only here when dealing with MY OWN tires. A good rule of thumb  is to also rotate all four tires both sides (front to back and vice versa) with every service of 5K Km. Oops may have mis-spoken using the term service.

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6 hours ago, Jonmarleesco said:

Tyre pressures aren't dictated by size and type. Tractor tyres can run with much less pressure than car tyres. But PSI means per square inch, so when they blow, they blow. For large tractor tyres, lorry tyres, etc, there should - certainly used to be - a cage in which to place the tyre before inflating it.

 

Some years ago, there was a case in the U.K. where a tractor tyre explosion left nothing of the farmer except some surface evidence on the ceiling.

Likewise, when I was a lad many many moons ago, we had one of our truck mechanics killed in similar manner, he was sitting on a truck tyre when it failed,  hitting the overhead roof cross members didn't do much for him but the air entering his rear passage blew his insides to pieces. A very heavy cage was constructed the following with a procedure implimented, this was well before the days of OH&S was even heard of.

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9 hours ago, jvs said:

I have never seen a tractor with split rims but this is not even a tractor it is an iron buffalo.Two wheeled tractor,no split rims.

Maybe a case of old dried out tires and they could not handle the pressure.

 

Maybe rusted rim let go - steel donut at ~ 100 km/hr?

 

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Tyre-pressure........as soon as a bike-repair guy starts filling up my tyres I  step away.

Those people fill up until the compressor can't cope anymore.

But for cars it's similar. There are only a few people who respect the prescribed tyre pressure of approx. 20-23, but most go to 30-35 (is it psi?)

 

 

If you are running you tire pressure at 20-23 psi you are running your tires severely under inflated which causes increased heat,uneven tire wear, increases fuel consumption, tire wear and poor handling. Recommended tire pressures vary depending on the vehicle. If you want to find your car's manufacturers recommemded tire pressure look inside the drivers side door. Most car manufacturers recommend keeping your tire pressure at 30-32 PSI.

Ensure you always check your tire pressure when your tires are cold.

Also keep in mind that you should check your tire pressure often as the air inside your tire penetrates the sidewalls and you can expect to lose upwards of 1-2 PSI per month, and also the myth about using nitrogen in your tires is just that, a myth.

I've worked in the commercial and automotive tire industry for 20 years, working for manufacturers such as Bridgestone and Michelin and many dealers including Kal Tire, and your statement about running your tire pressures at 20-23 PSI is complete and utter nonsense.

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Prescribed tyre pressure are for cold conditions. One would have to fill to a higher pressure during a journey.

Somewhere on the sidewall of your tire, just below the big, bold letters of the manufacturer, for example, you might have noticed the words ‘Max. Press. 35 PSI.’ That number tells you the maximum cold pressure needed for your tire to carry its maximum load.

You can also find the maximum tire pressure on the inside of the driver's side door.

I mention ‘cold’ pressure because that means you’re filling up your tires at the ideal time—when they’re cold. First thing in the morning or after sitting for a few hours in the shade is best. Nothing to do with the temperature.

Usually, your tire’s maximum tire pressure is somewhere between 30 and 32 PSI.

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4 hours ago, kangaloowest said:
15 hours ago, trogers said:

Prescribed tyre pressure are for cold conditions. One would have to fill to a higher pressure during a journey.

 

The Prescribed tyre pressure, is to be used for all given temperatures of operation. 

It is to be used for the life of the tyre.

The pressure stated by the tyre manufacturer should not be altered because you are going on a trip.

 

 

Are you a tyre dealer?

 

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