Motorbike travel around Vietnam

[chrissables]

A long trip by motorbike around Vietnam.

As a Thai registered motorbike is not allowed to enter into Vietnam i flew to Ho Chi Minh to buy a bike from a company that sets an agreed buy back price.

[chrissables]

Day 1.  Thursday Sept 15th.

I arrived yesterday in Ho Chi Minh, for the start of a new trip. 
I needed to pay the outstanding amount on the motorbike. PayPal, would not work!

Checking details on yahoo, could not log in!

Opened a Transferwise account, Nationwide UK refused to send my money as it was cash! (was not)

So I decided to have a few beers, taxi could not find a bar! And overcharged!

2nd taxi the same!

Found a bar on my own a few minute walk from the hotel that the hotel did not know was there!

Arrived at the hotel in a slightly (very) drunken state!

The hotel was locked up for the night!

Found my bed 21 hours after getting up, slept well!

Tomorrow i start my trip up the Ho Chi Minh road to the Chinese border. Hopefully no more issues!

 

Day 2. Friday Sept 16.

Sorting baggage and plastic covering. And how to pack my bags!

 

Day 3. Saturday Sept 17.

Riding 11 hrs   397km

I paid a motorbike taxi to show me out of the middle of HCM, best money spent! No idea where I was.

It was total mayhem, every bike, car, truck and bus beeping horns, gridlocked but flowing! If that makes sense? Great fun once relaxed.

I found the Ho Chi Minh Road and due to not paying attention the Ho Chi Minh trail, but no dammed Ho’s, maybe next time!

Found a really great new road heading North alongside the Cambodian border, just like a roller coaster, sweeping up and down, left to right, so realistic in fact you had your photo taken and could pay for it! Well in my case pay the fine for speeding and the photo was not framed, how bad is that? But after showing my total unawareness of the offense, I was let go. Acting dumb is so easy for me! Back on the road just in time for 3 hours of thunderstorms in the highlands.

For people paying attention and using google maps I am at Buon Ma Thuot, the main coffee growing area of Vietnam, I believe. Having a cold beer and preparing for tomorrows ride.

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A much needed beer break in the middle of nowhere.

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Day 4. Sunday Sept 18. 11 ½ hrs approx 372km

Buon Ma Thuot to Kon Tum. I Left with high expectations this morning. No rain and better scenery to be seen weather permitting.

Just out of Buon Ma Thuot about 20 km, there was a war memorial for the men lost in the war with America. These places always make me think the <deleted> up Politian’s should be leading the countries forces from the front.

 

The war memorial near Buon Ma Thuot

 

 

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Just before Pleiku I turned west toward the Laos/Cambodian border and La Drang Valley, a famous battle site made into the movie, “We were Soldiers”. I actually found nothing but trouble!

I was arrested for illegally entering Cambodia, which I patiently explained was Laos, and I did not actually enter! (Looking at a map later, it was Cambodia they thought I had been).

An hour later I was released and told to ride back to Pleiku and report to the police station there to a Ms Dang. When they kindly gave me some noodle cups I presumed I was staying a while!

After my one hour back track and no luck with the police, I called the company I bought the bike from, who advised me to leave, so I did!

I did get a few nice photos’ and met some lovely people, but……….

Arrived at the hotel so damned hungry due to no food yesterday and today some questionable noodles soup, which I think could have been dog or some kind of road kill and i could not eat.

 

Nothing at the hotel tonight as well so beer and crash out.

 

Condom tress near the Cambodian border

 

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I was arrested taking this photo!

 

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Day 5. Monday 19 Sept. 8 ½ hrs 335 km

Good ride today, although overcast.

Took a wrong turn just out of Ngoc Hoi and ended up near the Laos border. The road there was new and 8 lanes wide until in the mountains, but deserted.

 

A new road to the Laos border

 

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I continued through Dak Glei, Kham Duc to Thanh My, where I left the Ho Chi Minh road and headed for Prao. I picked up a hitchhiker here. This is a great mountainous switchback road and my hitchhiker seemed to like my style of riding, well he was speechless, but smiling and gave me the thumbs up and twisted his hand as if using a throttle! If only he knew…………

Arrived at Prao, ready for better views tomorrow.

 

I managed to avoid this storm!

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Day 6. Tuesday 20 September 7 hrs 230 km.

Prao to Khe Sanh. It Started well, cloudy and overcast but a good road and nice scenery.

Enjoying the switch backs so much the bike and I decided to try mud wrestling, the mud won!

A two inch layer of sandy clay, nice and wet, slippery like ice had me off a bike, for the first time in over 35 years.

Luckily the mud acted as a barrier against too much road rash. I did suffer a scraped knee, a deep and painful cut to a finger that I could see the bone and my ribs are a tad painful!

Three soldiers picked the bike up and had a laugh at my expense. Then took me to casualty, the local river! I had a good wash and got most of the grit from my road rash out, the police bid farewell and left me to it. Only 200 km to my next destination!

 

The casualty area (river) was not up to International standards!

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The ride was so good and remote from Prao to A Luoi, where the movie “Hamburger Hill” was based. Then a further 100km to Khe Sanh.

 

Hamburger Hill  in the background

 

 

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I found a hotel, serviced the bike (Approx 1300km) and started drinking pain killers!

 

I found a hotel, serviced the bike (Approx 1300km) and started drinking pain killers!

 

The Ho Chi Minh trail winding into the wilderness 

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Day 7. Wednesday 21 Sept.

Stayed at hotel all day except for a visit to the hospital. I intended to talk with a doctor about my ribs and get some good pain killers. Nobody spoke English and I could only buy paracetamol. It rained all day, so I was ok staying in town.

 

Day 8. Thurs Sept 22.

Stayed in room

 

Day 9. Friday Sept 23. 10 hrs. 295km

Khe Sanh to Phong Nha. I Left Khe Sanh, ended up at the Laos border by mistake, back tracked and took the remote road with no petrol for 240km, so took some in a bottle.

The day started good, but cloudy and fog in the mountains, soon turning to rain making it a miserable day in the end. Ribs still hurting, and could not see the views.

The hotel at Phong Nha, no food or drink and what was available was a trip in the rain and not edible!

Nice and remote here. A view from the Ho Chi Minh Road. 

 

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The Ho Chi Minh road winding its way North.  

 

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Day 10. Sat 24 Sept. 7 hrs. 285km.

Phong Nha to Tan Ky. Cloud, fog then rain as I left this morning. Rained quiet heavily until Pho Chau, which was to be my stop for the night. Decided to carry on to Tan Ky as the rain stopped and it was a good road. Found a good hotel for 10 pound, 450 baht. Relaxed.

Day 11. Sunday 25 Sept. approx 8hrs, 228km.

Tan Ky to Ngoc Lac. A really shitty day, I should have stay at Tan Ky. Rain and running about trying to find a decent hotel. Had been told there were many, but again, no food or drink and in the middle of nowhere! Sell you warm beer and ice and no food, they need kicking, really!

I still have not had a real meal yet! Ribs giving so much grief too.

 

Day 12. Monday 26 Sept. 7 ½ hrs 159km

Ngoc Lac to Mai Chau. Good start to the day! Sun and really good mountainous views. Rode through Pu Luong National Park to Mai Chau.

 

Nice early morning view

 

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A very hot day and was happy to see lots of shops in town. Found a room, then found not one shop had a cold drink, or sold ice! <deleted> ridiculous! They are trying to cash in on a tourist boom, and can’t even supply a cold drink or ice. It was 35 degrees plus in my room and a bottle of warm water to drink or nothing. I was staying a few days, but out of here in the morning. Whatever the collective noun for morons is, (a b#sta*d) is my suggestion, and this place deserves to go bankrupt. Thank goodness the views are so good!

More great views today   

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Off into the wilderness! 

 

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Day 13. Tuesday 27 Sept. 6 hrs 190km

Mai Chau to Son La. Left Mai Chau quiet late for me, took a right towards Hanoi to take some photo’s looking down onto Mai Chau. Backtracked and headed for Son La. Cold up on the plateau, but a good road meant I arrived early. Serviced the bike and found a hotel with cold beer!

Looking down to Mai Chau  

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Day 14. Wednesday 28 Sept. 8 hrs. 204km

Son La to Chan Nua. I left Son La to a nice bright and sunny day heading for Dien Bien Phu originally, but after an internet search I decided to change my route. I turned off at Tuan Giao heading north. What a result! Shops were selling cold beer, so a great late breakfast!

Near Tuan Giao 

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3 hours later in the valley leading to Lai Chau, I had a late lunch of cold beer and some fruit that was kindly given to me by the local Hill tribe people. Similar to grapefruit in taste and so refreshing washed down with cold beer!

On the road to Lai Chau. 

 

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A spectacular view on the way to Lai Chau.

 

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I carried on and missed Lai Chau town, but when I stopped to ask where I was, I had found the “wherethefuckarewetribe!” So dam good! New rooms for 10 pound with hot showers, satellite TV and a restaurant. The owner then said the magic words, “do you want a beer?” I’m moving in and marrying all his daughters! After so much angst what a great day!

 

Day 15. Thursday 29 Sept. 8 hrs. 180km?

Straight after leaving I turned off the main road towards Sin Ho over mountains dotted with Hill Tribes, great views and nice smiles and waves hello from the locals.

On a very remote road to Sin Ho. 

 

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The last stretch to Sap Pa I had to cross the Tran Ton Pass, 1900 meters high with great views and quiet cool too.

The Tran Ton Pass, Sap Pa.  

 

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Another view of the Tran Ton Pass, Sap Pa.

 

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Day 16. Friday 30 Sept.

I took the cable car up Fanispan today, nice views were partly hidden by cloud and fog. Killed me completing the walk to the top, due to not being fit and the height causing less oxygen than I am used to living at sea level! Its 3,143 meters high. 10,312 feet.

I had so many young students come to take “selfies” with me on the final walk up, which was rather embarrassing due to my heavy breathing! They probably thought I was an old pervert!

 

On my way up Fanispan, the highest peak in Indochina. 

 

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The peak at Fanispan 3,143 meters  

 

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Day 17. Sat 01 Oct. Stayed around Sappa

Day 18. Sun 02 Oct 6hrs 190 km

Sappa to Tu Le. Left Sappa heading back over the Tran Ton Pass, so nice dues to better weather I had to take more photos.

The Tran Ton Pass again.  

 

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After the pass i turned South East to Tan Uyen and arrived at Tu Le. The whole trip was valley’s full of terraced paddy fields. Good weather, just a little hazy.

 

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Some more rice terraces!

 

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Day 19. Monday 03 Oct. 7 ½ hrs 238km.

Tu Le to Yen Bai. Tu Le was cloudy when I left heading for Nghia Lo. I decided to do a detour through Tram Tau to Bac Yen and onto Yen Bai.

 

Clouds building this morning, but no rain!