Crossy

The Fluke it is then ????

These are IP65, "waterproof" definitely not "underwater" which would be IP68 or better (Note - a "bigger" IP number is not necessarily "better"). https://rainfordsolutions.com/products/ingress-protection-ip-rated-enclosures/ip-enclosure-ratings-standards-explained/ EDIT - We had some IP65 floodlights that failed because they filled with water from Thai rain

At least this thing works, but has a "mystery part".

I wouldn't buy ???? Biggest issue is the fixed test leads, the one part of a meter that fails is the test leads. I'm loathe to "recommend" a unit unless you want to shell for a Fluke ???? https://www.lazada.co.th/products/1-fluke-digital-multi-meter-15b-15b-i308838969-s13231551877.html Something like this would suit https://www.lazada.co.th/products/zt102-lcd-digital-multimeter-digital-auto-range-portable-multimeter-6000-counts-backlight-ammeter-voltmeter-ohm-i2752146100-s9995129847.html

Pay a bit more for an auto-ranging one, but you still have to select the quantity you want to measure (AC or DC volts, ohms, amps).

Any of the small digital multimeters that are on sale at the DIY places (or even Tesco Lotus's) should do the trick for DIYing, a few hundred Baht. This is the one I get out if someone wants to "borrow" a meter: -

Could you post a photo of the "thingy" including any labelling. The manual for the safe may also be handy. EDIT I suspect it could be the "emergency power" to open the safe when the internal battery dies. EDIT2 A link to the Lazada listing may also help.

Do verify the output voltage of the transformers with your trusty multimeter (are they definitely DC, can't tell from the photos)? If it's more than about 14V you may have to make some arrangements to reduce it a bit to avoid killing the LEDs. All your LEDs would probably run off just one Tx.

Personally, I'd twist and solder then add adhesive-lined heatshrink tube. Those barrel connectors rust out rather faster than I like, you're probably better just twisting the wires then using good quality insulating tape as you suggest.

You probably don't need to assuming your source is suitably isolated, in this case the earth lead from the lamps should just be insulated where you join to the existing cables. How do you intend making your joints? Test your lamps easily using your car or M/C battery as a source ????

I would try it on 12V DC with + on the brown - on the blue. If you have a meter check if the green/yellow goes to the metal case. What do you intend powering the beasts with?

Does the deal include engines? That GtoG rice deal doesn't look so good now Thailand is second best ...

@Sheryl for you i think ????

Back on-topic. If I were in the hotel's position, I would turn down the offer too. Considering what these "migrants" are prepared to do when they don't get what they want, I'd run, fast!

There's a massive variety of things like this on AliExpress, including units for landlords. Cut of your tenant's power to "encourage" them to pay their rent whilst sitting on the beach with an icy beer (or a Pina-colada) of course.

We're using two RS-485 meters to monitor import/export and solar generation separately. For WiFi or Bluetooth how about this chap https://www.lazada.co.th/products/jiuch-at4pw-100a-tuya-wifibluetooth-din-rail-ac-220v-110v-amp-factor-meter-meter-household-electricity-bill-power-monitor-i4158892709-s16330777444.html Did you install a big enough box for it to live in?

Can't help with a seller, but this may help with sizing the beasts. Looks like they are sized by the pipe size that fits through the middle.

Unless you want the UPS functionality provided by most if not all hybrid inverters, or you have an electronic meter that won't net-meter (there have been reports of electronic meters in Thailand actually charging for exported energy) and you want to store excess generation (there are of course other ways of using excess generation, such as hot water storage). Costs are coming down and more second-life vehicle packs are coming on the market. Our (well) used LiFePO4 golf-cart cells keep our lights, TV, one A/C etc. on for 4-5 hours at night before the genset has to start, during the day the solar will happily supply our normal load and charge the batteries** with the grid off (we would normally be exporting if the grid was on). ** Assuming the weather plays ball, unlike the last 3-4 days ????

Hmmmm. How do you know you are not exporting? (inverter settings mean nothing) With a regular grid-tie inverter (which you appear to have from data provided) it will generate power to the limit of what's available from the panels. Once the local load is satisfied any spare energy is exported (this is controlled by physics, not by any inverter settings). The inverter can limit or eliminate export by reducing its power output to match the local load. It can do this by either monitoring the local load OR by monitoring the grid energy. Your unit can monitor the grid energy using the add-on unit. Have you tried killing the local load and watching the meter?

But you are ON dozens

I have a feeling this is going to go downhill fast ????

A post actually showing a members ignore list has been removed as potentially inflammatory. Please do NOT tell all who is on your list.

Would the lovely Babs pass muster? ????

Ours came from this seller https://www.lazada.co.th/shop/coden who doesn't appear to sell rubbish.