Crossy

@Muhendis do you think there's any mileage in adding a smear of a silicone-based grease to the O-ring before mating??

On an "unknown" system I pull the main breaker and still check dead at the fitting. It's not unknown for circuits (water heaters seem to be particularly prone) to be hooked to the incoming supply because it was convenient!

A while back one of our arrays of DIY solar flood-lights stopped being able to last all night. The battery pack simply didn't have the oomph. Charging the pack with an actual charger "fixed" the issue for a week or so. The (simple and cheap) charge controller said all was fine and the pack was charging when the sun was awake. It was only when I actually started investigating that I found that the charge current was in fact, minimal (but not zero). The issue was traced to a bad connection inside the junction box on the back of the 100W solar panel which had evidently been fizzing away for a while. I did a thread IIRC.

Update for 26 Feb 2024. Please refrain from posting "Instructible" type threads regarding "energy saving" or "improving" <insert type of device here>. These instructions, which often appear on YouTube and the like rarely have any sound engineering basis, are relying on false premise or simply don't work, and are often just plain dangerous! If you feel the urge to post something along these lines, please PM myself with your proposal. You may wish to include some tangible proof that it does what you say it does. Unauthorised threads of this type will be removed without warning. Note that this rule doesn't apply to "how to make your own extension lead" type threads.

Possibly a bad connection/connector been fizzing for a while and finally failed.

Enough! EDIT I'm also going to modify the local forum rules to prohibit further threads of this kind. If you want to post something similar, please PM myself with your proposal.

Local wildlife maybe?? Or just crappy MC-4 connectors.

Warning Will Robinson. Warning. IF you are going to try this you MUST use mains-rated capacitors, not just any old cap salvaged from who knows where!!! A good source of suitable low-cost capacitors are the fan run capacitors sold all over. Also note That my posting here is in no way an endorsement of this technique, any and all consequences are purely the responsibility of the reader.

You put two wires in each connector hole. Before (slightly different connector, but the principle is the same) During (twist the wires together) After

2,166 Baht! Dual-pricing is alive and well in India it would seem

Just connect the two wires to the two wires in your fitting. You can often poke the cap through the hole in the ceiling so it doesn't cast shadows. In this application they should last pretty much forever.

I believe the agent did the translation.

No this can't be fixed at the switch No increase in energy consumption, no real hazard to the user, but sparkies who are less than careful may get bitten. You could try adding a capacitor at the fitting, just connect L-N. The 1uF variant of these would do the trick and easy to wire in. https://www.lazada.co.th//products/i4822968210-s20050874277.html

I think we can conclude your switch is in the neutral Are all your lights on the same breaker? It MIGHT be a reasonably easy fix. Much depends upon how the neutrals have been arranged / borrowed.

Last time I used an agent, my pink ID was accepted as proof of address.

No need to disconnect anything. With the power on (light lit) you should get neon on both wires of the switch. That you are getting nothing suggests that the switch is in the neutral Can you verify that with the switch OFF (light not lit) you do get neon on one end of the switch and not the other.

Streaming is working fine for us. Except that England seem to be determined to lose the cricket to India, again. I did notice that DNS at 1.1.1.1 be being blocked for a while, not sure why but changing to 8.8.8.8 fixed those problems.

I thought the angle-grinder would be a bit "brutal" considering the wall thickness. But I just tried it on some of the bits I cut off, with a 1mm cutting disc, did the trick no problem. Wrapped the pipe in a rag (mind it doesn't catch) and held gently in the vice. So, there's the answer, or at least one of many possibilities.

Yeah, no leak, but I know about it, I'm sure you know the feeling The Dremel (we have one) sounds like a smart idea. Spare tubes https://www.lazada.co.th/products/-i3715655888-s14072448061.html

I also got a bunch of these to avoid the silicone! https://www.lazada.co.th/products/sb-125-15-2-i2054292693-s6700658525.html

You know the "chrome" plated ones used on visible urinal and sink wastes. These: - Our "handy person" butchered the vertical bit when cutting to length. We've hidden the dinged bit at the back but Madam is sure to notice, luckily you can get spare pipes.

It seems a lot easier to go back in time on the PC rather than the App.

Yeah, mine go all the way back to my first ever Lazada order.

The next step, after confirming that the switch really is in the live line rather than the neutral would be to add a mains-rated capacitor between L and N at the fitting. This would divert any leakage current coming via capacitive coupling in the wiring. A 1uF fan run capacitor would be a cheap and readily available part, no need for a resistor.

Just to add to the supply voltage confusion. PEA supplies are nominally 220V. MEA supplies are nominally 230V. Both are +-10% (ish). And that meter looks like a pretty standard el-cheapo analog meter to me. It has some flashy bits, but at only 20,000 ohms/volt there's no way it's going to be useful for modern electronic measurements.