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Drilling a 3/4" hole in floor tile


westbounder

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Hi,

I have a tile counter top in my house kitchen. 

I need to drill a 3/4" or 2 cm. wide hole in the tile for the gas line to go to my stove.

How can I do this and also do a nice job without chipping or breaking the tile?
Is there a special drill bit I can buy?

Thank You

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A diamond hole-saw is your friend. Slow speed, maybe some water coolant.

 

I'll move this to DIY as it's not CM specific.

 

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The diamond core by far the best, but often the expense doesnt justify a single use.

 next option if you have a large hole is to stitch drill around the circle with a tungsten carbide bit. If its not going to too visible can easily sand down the edges afterwards.

For holes a tad bigger than yours I do it the Thai way with the grinder. With practice you can sweep around a circle very quickly and then do most grinding from the back. Holes are quite neat.

 

Always a good idea to keep the drill bits wet as the heat and friction involved will crack tge tile.

 

Plenty of small elyptical carbide tile drills in the hardware shops for a few baht. Off the moat SE corner, bbig place selling plywood is the one to hit.

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You can buy a special bit for ceramics. I never bought one as I always managed to get the hole in a place where the joints crossed, starting, gently, with a smaller bit than I need to finish with. Once you've got through the concrete the vibrations reduce significantly.

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Another method that has always worked for me is to start with a center point just making a small chip in the tile (so the drill doesn't slip).  Then start with your smallest masonry bit, moving up in size until you get the hole you need.

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2 hours ago, Crossy said:

A diamond hole-saw is your friend. Slow speed, maybe some water coolant.

 

I'll move this to DIY as it's not CM specific.

 

Since you need a 2cm hole. Holesaw is your best option,  the cheap ones in Ma Pa shop (about 100bht) worked well for my holes in porcelain tiles with no chipping.  They are pretty much garbage after 4 holes.

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2 hours ago, BigT73 said:

Since you need a 2cm hole. Holesaw is your best option,  the cheap ones in Ma Pa shop (about 100bht) worked well for my holes in porcelain tiles with no chipping.  They are pretty much garbage after 4 holes.

Well to be fair porcelain will not even give in to carbide bits so yes a 100bt cubic zirconia glass diamond hole cutter will do well to last 4 times.

For 100bt tho thats worth the expense.

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One thing to also consider is what’s below the tile?... Most likely 3-4 inches of concrete with rebar... Make sure your largest bit can go the full depth...

 

Also if you make a bit of a mess of it you can buy a plastic hole cover to hide your messy cut.... Homepro & Nana Screw sells something like this in different sizes...

 

 

F187F48A-E76B-438B-981B-44F2812A7DC9.jpeg

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On ‎1‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 8:27 PM, steve187 said:

is the tile porcelain, if so a water cooled hole cutter will be required.

tile hole cutter.jpg

We used similar in the UK, but our ones had a drill in the middle enabling you to get an accurate position without it drifting. Not seen anything like it in Thailand but I haven't looked, So they might be available.

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3 hours ago, fredob43 said:

We used similar in the UK, but our ones had a drill in the middle enabling you to get an accurate position without it drifting. Not seen anything like it in Thailand but I haven't looked, So they might be available.

the problem with the drill in the middle type is that this centre drill will not penetrate the porcelain

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4 minutes ago, steve187 said:

the problem with the drill in the middle type is that this centre drill will not penetrate the porcelain

The trick is to use a centre-punch on the tile to start the drill..........this breaks through the enamel surface allowing it to penetrate and once you get through the surface coating it is plain sailing. Done it many times.

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9 minutes ago, steve187 said:

the problem with the drill in the middle type is that this centre drill will not penetrate the porcelain

I used a masonary bit first and took the drill off hammer, the drillbit on the holesaw is just a guide so it doesnt slip.

 

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12 minutes ago, xylophone said:

The trick is to use a centre-punch on the tile to start the drill..........this breaks through the enamel surface allowing it to penetrate and once you get through the surface coating it is plain sailing. Done it many times.

The guy in photo below starred in the punch a tile movie

 

698240971_punchtile.jpg.95d935675ef8b0b5f71c4f02a2071389.jpg

 

 

Meanwhile back in .....

 

 

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9 minutes ago, Fruit Trader said:

The guy in photo below starred in the punch a tile movie

 

698240971_punchtile.jpg.95d935675ef8b0b5f71c4f02a2071389.jpg

 

 

Meanwhile back in .....

 

 

Looks like he is hammering away at it...............subtlety is the answer, just tap the centre punch to chip the enamel surface and that's enough. As i said I have done it many times when renovating, with no problems!!

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5 hours ago, BigT73 said:

I used a masonary bit first and took the drill off hammer, the drillbit on the holesaw is just a guide so it doesnt slip.

 

if its porcelain then you will burn out a few masonry bits, the diamond tip hole cutter  is the only way to go, available in many sizes in hardware house and other stores, use something like this to keep it in the correct place, you still haven't said what the tile is.

porcelain-tile-hole-cutter.jpg

 

edit, i and others have posted here but for 5 days the op hasn't been back are we wasting our time.

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1 hour ago, steve187 said:

if its porcelain then you will burn out a few masonry bits, the diamond tip hole cutter  is the only way to go, available in many sizes in hardware house and other stores, use something like this to keep it in the correct place, you still haven't said what the tile is.

porcelain-tile-hole-cutter.jpg

 

edit, i and others have posted here but for 5 days the op hasn't been back are we wasting our time.

OP probably done by now,  but I think its interesting to hear other peoples methods as there are alot of retirees here that at one time were at the top of their professions.

 

I had porcelian tiles, I used a masonary bit 5mm as a pre driller, which didnt go blunt as I do buy quality irwin bits.  I also could have used a arrow tip porcelian tile cutter to start.  

 

Once I have the small hole, I then use the diamond holesaw with drill bit which keeps it from dancing around. They have cheap ones here.

 

Biggest problem in Thailand using a specialiased tool (as attached in your photo) they are rare as hens teeth and if your lucky to find them prices are through the roof vs my method.

index(2).jpg

index.jpg

1-5-8-Diamond-Hole-Saw-Core-Drill-Bit-for.jpg

The holesaws above werent the type I bought here they looked more like your photo with the diamonds, but had the center drill bit

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2 hours ago, xylophone said:

index.jpg.3db2bf5751be7758e72296866a60e057.jpg

Yes, these will break through the surface then you have the "starter" hole to start with.........the small chip made by a centre punch will help.

The OP

I need to drill a 3/4" or 2 cm. wide hole in the tile for the gas line.

How can I do this and also do a nice job without chipping or breaking the tile?

 

Post #2 is the ultimate solution.

 

répéter 

 post #16

 

 

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12 hours ago, BigT73 said:

retirees here that at one time were at the top of their professions

yes mine was wall and floor tiling for 45 years, from 6 inch quarry tiles thick bed fixing, to 1.2m x 1.2m porcelain thin bed tiling

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21 hours ago, steve187 said:

the problem with the drill in the middle type is that this centre drill will not penetrate the porcelain

Yes it does if you put a small pilot hole in it first. Just a little bit of thought needed.

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10 hours ago, Fruit Trader said:

The OP

I need to drill a 3/4" or 2 cm. wide hole in the tile for the gas line.

How can I do this and also do a nice job without chipping or breaking the tile?

 

Post #2 is the ultimate solution.

 

répéter 

 post #16

 

 

The small "chip" made by the centre punch is where the pilot drill goes as a starter (see post below) and the tile itself is undamaged if done well. 

 

Having renovated houses, fitted more appliances to tiled wall surfaces than I can remember, and replaced broken shower floor tiles using this method, it has proven successful every time............see the pics in posts 19 and 20, whereas the pic you posted in post #16 seem to be that of a ham-fisted man whom I wouldn't let empty my rubbish bin.

 

4 minutes ago, fredob43 said:

Yes it does if you put a small pilot hole in it first. Just a little bit of thought needed.

 

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6 minutes ago, xylophone said:

The small "chip" made by the centre punch is where the pilot drill goes as a starter (see post below) and the tile itself is undamaged if done well. 

 

Having renovated houses, fitted more appliances to tiled wall surfaces than I can remember, and replaced broken shower floor tiles using this method, it has proven successful every time............see the pics in posts 19 and 20, whereas the pic you posted in post #16 seem to be that of a ham-fisted man whom I wouldn't let empty my rubbish bin.

 

 

I owned a tiling/Granite company for over 30 years in the UK, so have more than likely forgotten more about tiling than most people know. A little tip if you want to remove a tile once in place. You have to start from the middle working towards the centre all the time. Otherwise it WILL chip the glaze on the tile next to it, when you get near the edge. Start with a small masonry chisel and end up taking the last bit round the edge with a large 1" wood chisel. The wood chisel enables you to get the old grout out. Also working towards the centre. Take your time or you will end up with what we called a pack of cards syndrome having to take several up. So you are correct about the plonker in the snap trying to remove tile. Doing that way never works. 

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For centering the drill on a tile, rather than try to center punch, which could potentially lead to a crack, I always put duct tape or similar tape over where I will be drilling when starting. The drill doesn't slide on the tile this way and you can get started without risking a cracked tile.  

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22 minutes ago, fredob43 said:

I owned a tiling/Granite company for over 30 years in the UK, so have more than likely forgotten more about tiling than most people know. A little tip if you want to remove a tile once in place. You have to start from the middle working towards the centre all the time. Otherwise it WILL chip the glaze on the tile next to it, when you get near the edge. Start with a small masonry chisel and end up taking the last bit round the edge with a large 1" wood chisel. The wood chisel enables you to get the old grout out. Also working towards the centre. Take your time or you will end up with what we called a pack of cards syndrome having to take several up. So you are correct about the plonker in the snap trying to remove tile. Doing that way never works. 

Yes the shower floor tiles were the worst, and occasionally I did chip the tile next door, mainly through trying to hurry the job......patience is certainly needed!

 

And those little tile/masonry drills pictured are an absolute godsend when drilling into wall tiles, though someone "borrowed" mine and I haven't seen it since!!

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1 minute ago, GarryP said:

rather than try to center punch, which could potentially lead to a crack

Gently does it and all will be fine.......just a little tap is needed. The duct tape method sounds good too..........

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3 hours ago, xylophone said:

Gently does it and all will be fine.......just a little tap is needed. The duct tape method sounds good too..........

You can use the duck tape method works fine. I used to find that resting my left elbow on a work top/floor making a V with your arm, then holding, steadying, gliding, the drill (Not a large 0ne & definitely no hammer) with left hand, then with the right hand hold the rest of the drill to work it. As long a you put pressure on your left elbow and not to much pressure on right hand should work fine. But then again I have had lots of practice. I assume if your left handed the reverse will work. Whatever slowly slowly is the way to go. The above system also works when drilling into a wall. Just rest your elbow on the wall and use a small pilot drill bit first.

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On 1/5/2019 at 12:56 PM, Crossy said:

A diamond hole-saw is your friend. Slow speed, maybe some water coolant.

 

I'll move this to DIY as it's not CM specific.

 

put  masking  tape where  you  want  to  cut also  stop  it  dancing  round

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