Honda Cbr150

[thaicbr]

Canuck. I would say that a 110 is the best for the rear of a CBR. I had a 130 on mine it did fit but leaked air a 120 might be ok but a 110 will defo be ok as that is the size they run on the Cbr125 in the UK. Golilla on Mocyc now has the michelin pilot sporty in stock in 110 size. an excellent tyre for the Cbr

[taichiplanet]

i will do a motor rebuild. After 45k kms its not blowing smoke and goes fine but does use a little oil. As much as i'd like to buy a new ER6F, economics and the fact that the CBR is fine for my use stops me. Any suggestions on piston, rod, cam or other mods? I'm looking for a slighter faster bike but want to keep the tractability, is it worth the cost of a lighter piston or just go for a factory oversize piston? At the moment i will keep the original CDI unit. I am running a 28mm carbie and bigger exhaust header pipe. I am also running the 15/47 sprocket combo which i find great.

I use the Michelin Sporty Pilots (there is a discussion earlier in this thread), one of the best things you can do to the CBR for ride, handling and safety.

[phobic]

I am considering a 120/80 for my rear wheel.

Has anybody had this dimension tire on their stock rims.

It seems that it should fit, but I am concerned about it keeping a good seal

A 120 tire will fit on the stock rim, i read a thai magazine where a guy asked what the biggest size for the back rim were.. and he got the reply that 120 is the biggest.

/peace

[momosan]

Canuck. I would say that a 110 is the best for the rear of a CBR. I had a 130 on mine it did fit but leaked air a 120 might be ok but a 110 will defo be ok as that is the size they run on the Cbr125 in the UK. Golilla on Mocyc now has the michelin pilot sporty in stock in 110 size. an excellent tyre for the Cbr

I called him a month ago about the 110 and was told that it was out of stock. Also checked his listing on mocyc last week and it still looked like the situation was still the same. I've bloody well had it with these stock tires, I get into a situation almost weekly where they simply fail on me and almost put me into a very, very painful situation . I'll call up again this weekend. If he still hasn't got the 110 I'll just simply have to go with 100 for both front and back and then buy/change again when it does come in

Edited June 17, 2009 by momosan

[oMega69]

By 2008 model year, the CBR150 was designed for E10, which I use in my 2008 and get about 35 or 36 km/l.

My CBR is build 2006 ., and i have also the E10 sticker on my tank . . ,, But benzine is that cheap any way so no need to get E10 even cheaper. ...,,

But the mechanic manager at Honda here in Pattaya told me to use benzine octan 91 insteed ..,,

Edited June 17, 2009 by oMega69

[sinewave]

i will do a motor rebuild. After 45k kms its not blowing smoke and goes fine but does use a little oil. As much as i'd like to buy a new ER6F, economics and the fact that the CBR is fine for my use stops me. Any suggestions on piston, rod, cam or other mods? I'm looking for a slighter faster bike but want to keep the tractability, is it worth the cost of a lighter piston or just go for a factory oversize piston? At the moment i will keep the original CDI unit. I am running a 28mm carbie and bigger exhaust header pipe. I am also running the 15/47 sprocket combo which i find great.

I use the Michelin Sporty Pilots (there is a discussion earlier in this thread), one of the best things you can do to the CBR for ride, handling and safety.

i believe you can use the original cylinder sleeve up to sizes 65-66mm with a little boring out, for the 70mm piston im pretty sure you will have to get another sleeve made.

stage 1 cams are for pistons 66mm and below, stage 2 cams are for 180cc up.

some stiffer clutch springs will give you a much better start.

there's the usual spark mods too, NGK -CR8EGP needle plugs gapped to 1mm there is also a CR8, but it is not a needle plug...remove the resistor in the boot and use a better sparkplug wire.

[taichiplanet]

i will do a motor rebuild. After 45k kms its not blowing smoke and goes fine but does use a little oil. As much as i'd like to buy a new ER6F, economics and the fact that the CBR is fine for my use stops me. Any suggestions on piston, rod, cam or other mods? I'm looking for a slighter faster bike but want to keep the tractability, is it worth the cost of a lighter piston or just go for a factory oversize piston? At the moment i will keep the original CDI unit. I am running a 28mm carbie and bigger exhaust header pipe. I am also running the 15/47 sprocket combo which i find great.

I use the Michelin Sporty Pilots (there is a discussion earlier in this thread), one of the best things you can do to the CBR for ride, handling and safety.

i believe you can use the original cylinder sleeve up to sizes 65-66mm with a little boring out, for the 70mm piston im pretty sure you will have to get another sleeve made.

stage 1 cams are for pistons 66mm and below, stage 2 cams are for 180cc up.

some stiffer clutch springs will give you a much better start.

there's the usual spark mods too, NGK -CR8EGP needle plugs gapped to 1mm there is also a CR8, but it is not a needle plug...remove the resistor in the boot and use a better sparkplug wire.

Thanks for the info sinewave. Faddy quotes B7000 for a 162cc bore up kit (66mm piston) and B9000 for the 177cc kit. Stage 1 cam is B9900. They recommend using the PE28 Keihin carbie for these set ups. They do mention can get a 10-15% discount.Probably no point getting the 162cc kit if you can bore out the original sleeve to65 or 66mm piston; I suspect that this kit is more for the 125. I run through the options with my mechanic and see what he reckons.

Anyone used http://www.akunar.com for parts?

[sinewave]

piston and rings are around 2k-2.5k baht.

boring is less than 500 baht.

labor is around 500-700 baht.

gasket around 200 baht.

the pe28 keihin carb is from the NSR proarm...around 1.5k-2k baht...theres real ones and fake ones, the real ones have copper on the bottom of the slide.

faddy is way overpriced.

the same kit faddy sells for 7k baht can be found for 4800 baht.

I got a hook up on cams for 3500 baht, i think this is close to dbs prices...im not 100% sure, but i think all these cams may be the same just relabled...you have to remove the gear from the original cams and get it pressed onto the new cams...you dont have to drop the engine to change the cams.

The valve shims may need to be replaced to spec also, as a matter of fact if your rebuilding your bike its probably mandatory. around 150 baht each, 3 day wait if the dealer doesnt have the right size in stock.

[thaicbr]

Taichi. Tony Broster just had Akunar do a special Kawasaki GTO bore up and was mostly happy (seems the engineering company didnt face the barrel) But i think Akunar's standard stuff is top shelf good.

JUST had a look at Akunar's website and it's loads better than last year. WOW

Edited June 18, 2009 by thaicbr

[taichiplanet]

Taichi. Tony Broster just had Akunar do a special Kawasaki GTO bore up and was mostly happy (seems the engineering company didnt face the barrel) But i think Akunar's standard stuff is top shelf good.

JUST had a look at Akunar's website and it's loads better than last year. WOW

Nice to hear from you Tony, what are you riding these days? Is there a point where going too big on bore size will affect the performance and/or engine balance; what do you reckon it is on the CBR150?

Haven't got a response from Akunar, and am still haggling with Faddys. I haven't tried local shops yet. Thinking of getting the rear set like on faddys website but it looks like the pegs are higher, anyone fitted these or similar?

[T_Dog]

Sinewave... You mentioned that "The valve shims may need to be replaced to spec also,". Are you talking about the tool used to set valve clearances, or is there some part in the valve chain I am not familiar with. If this is a part in the engine, where the heck is it? Sure sounds like you enjoy digging into motorcycle engines!

[LivinLOS]

Sinewave... You mentioned that "The valve shims may need to be replaced to spec also,". Are you talking about the tool used to set valve clearances, or is there some part in the valve chain I am not familiar with. If this is a part in the engine, where the heck is it? Sure sounds like you enjoy digging into motorcycle engines!

Its a bit of hardened specific thickness metal that sits under the bucket and on top of the valve stem.. The bucket pushed by the cam.. Hence it is the part that allows easy adjustment of the valve gap.

[PeaceBlondie]

No personal attacks. I have removed or edited posts.

Most of us have not posted photos of our bikes; you are welcome to do so. I applaud those who have the guts to even consider modifications.

[Sentinel66]

Hello All

My first post!

I purchased a new CBR150R last month and was lucky enough to find this site. I signed up here a week or so ago and have now read this entire thread - whew, that took a while!! Anyway, just wanted to say I found a lot of useful information here - so thanks, and keep up the great work! I am thinking about upgrading my bike at some point once it's broken in a little(and no longer under warranty), but will be keeping an eye out here to see what else I can learn about these great little bikes!

Later ..

[taichiplanet]

Sinewave... You mentioned that "The valve shims may need to be replaced to spec also,". Are you talking about the tool used to set valve clearances, or is there some part in the valve chain I am not familiar with. If this is a part in the engine, where the heck is it? Sure sounds like you enjoy digging into motorcycle engines!

Its a bit of hardened specific thickness metal that sits under the bucket and on top of the valve stem.. The bucket pushed by the cam.. Hence it is the part that allows easy adjustment of the valve gap.

Unless it is a 6cyl Jaguar, then it is a pain in the ar@% to get the clearances right!

Just got a reply from Akunar.com; "The bore size for street use is just a question of how big you want i guess. For reliability reasons we would suggest 66-68mm being the more reliable given any bigger than 68mm you will have coolant leaks and a piston will need to be shaped to suit that is not designed for use in the cbr which will mean you need to alter cylinder heights etc. Even at 68mm which is what we prefer to offer people can occasionally suffer sealing problems but usually ok." They can supply a kit to my door for B5100. They can also supply an unlimited CDI unit for B2210, though I am a bit nervous about not having a rev limiter. Faddys came down to B5600 for the 162cc (66mm piston) kit , they said you can take the bore of an original casing out to 67mm. According to my rough calculation with the 68mm piston then the displacement will be 167.6cc, about a 12.5% increase.

Since I will be going to all this trouble, should I get new valves too? I will at least get HD (heavy duty) valve springs. The bikes done 44k kms.

I don’t know what was said that Peace had to delete, as my great-grandfather said, “If you don’t have something nice to say about someone, then don’t say anything at all!”

Ride safe and keep smiling!

[sinewave]

to find the values of the new shims , you follow this formula...not too hard, but most street side mechanics won't know how to do it.

To figure the thickness of the new shims follow the formula below:

A=(B-C)+D

A - The thickness of the new shim

B – Measured clearance between cam and tappet

C – Factory specified clearancebetween cam and tappet

D – Measured thickness of old shim

the shim is under the tappet (i think its called a tappet, anyway its the silver thumbsize piece that makes direct contact with the cam lobe)

Factory specified clearances between cam lobe and tappets:

Intake 0.16mm +/- 0.03mm

Exhaust 0.25mm +/- 0.03mm

Factory specified tolerences:

If you get a measurement of greater than 0.19mm and 0.28mm there is too much clearance.

If you get a measurement of less than 0.13mm and 0.22mm there is too little clearance.

Not sure about new valves, you may have seating problems since the valve seat on the head will not be new....but a valve job lines up the seating, basicly you apply abrasive valve cream to the valve and seat.

Then take this thing that looks like a pencil with a suction cup on the end, attach the suction cup end to the valve and make a back and forth motion with your hands, spinning the valve.

My old instructor back in high school said in a bind you can use toothpaste. then you wont have to worry about your valves developing cavities.

Edited June 20, 2009 by sinewave

[garyboypalaboy]

.

hey guys!!! just new here and im from philippines.... i wanted to buy a GEAR INDICATOR for CBR150. can anyone give me a link of the seller in thailand who can sell it online?

ill wait for your replies guys, thanks!!!

.

[songoku777]

Good info sine & canuckamuck

I am considering a 120/80 for my rear wheel.

Has anybody had this dimension tire on their stock rims.

It seems that it should fit, but I am concerned about it keeping a good seal.

A lot of people from where i come from fit 130/70 on theirs with no problem at all. That standard hugger from faddybike will also fit. One drawback of a 130 tire is the additional weight which takes the toll on acceleration. But it will definitely give you more confidence in the twisties (whether psychological or not, it works for 130 users) .. but personally i've got 110/70 since im more on performance and fuctionality, than on looks.

Hello All

My first post!

I purchased a new CBR150R last month and was lucky enough to find this site. I signed up here a week or so ago and have now read this entire thread - whew, that took a while!! Anyway, just wanted to say I found a lot of useful information here - so thanks, and keep up the great work! I am thinking about upgrading my bike at some point once it's broken in a little(and no longer under warranty), but will be keeping an eye out here to see what else I can learn about these great little bikes!

Later ..

Welcome Sentinel. I mostly do 'reading' too.. lots of info here.. very long, but fun to read ^^

.

hey guys!!! just new here and im from philippines.... i wanted to buy a GEAR INDICATOR for CBR150. can anyone give me a link of the seller in thailand who can sell it online?

ill wait for your replies guys, thanks!!!

.

Hello sir garyboypalaboy, you can also try sir Aris in MCP since he's also importing these. HTH

Factory specified clearances between cam lobe and tappets:

Intake 0.16mm +/- 0.03mm

Exhaust 0.25mm +/- 0.03mm

Factory specified tolerences:

If you get a measurement of greater than 0.19mm and 0.28mm there is too much clearance.

If you get a measurement of less than 0.13mm and 0.22mm there is too little clearance.

Nice info there sinewave! Thats for the CBR150 (not the 125) right?

[sinewave]

for the 150, make sure your timing indicators are aligned before measuring.

[garyboypalaboy]

Hello sir garyboypalaboy, you can also try sir Aris in MCP since he's also importing these. HTH

but im looking for some items on the thai online websites, or atleast can anyone give me any names of websites based on thailand which can offer online mc parts order.

i will be going in thailand on september, can one point me any good place/shop where i could buy aftermarket parts for bigbikes and ub/scoots.

.

[momosan]

.hey guys!!! just new here and im from philippines.... i wanted to buy a GEAR INDICATOR for CBR150. can anyone give me a link of the seller in thailand who can sell it online?

Funny that, I just ordered it from him yesterday. Took me a bit of googling to find a number for the guy since the one on cbr150club seems to be gone. Click here. I'm gonna get the local somchai to put it in for me and hopefully he doesn't screw anything else up while doing it

[Simonpetterson]

Hi, sorry if I can ask a question.

How do the cbr150s fair out on the highway, how do they feel up against a 4 stroke 400 for example? Taking one on a tour from bkk down to Koh Samui and back over 2 weeks for example, would it be a pain in the arse( bad pun), or not that much worse than a bigger 4 stroke?

I just don't know which one to go for.

[dave_boo]

Hi, sorry if I can ask a question.

How do the cbr150s fair out on the highway, how do they feel up against a 4 stroke 400 for example? Taking one on a tour from bkk down to Koh Samui and back over 2 weeks for example, would it be a pain in the arse( bad pun), or not that much worse than a bigger 4 stroke?

I just don't know which one to go for.

Well, depending on the speed you expect to maintain, they're quite pleasant. At 125+ the buzz can get to you, but most of us long distance riders just ignore it. The 400 will be MUCH smoother. BKK to Koh Samui isn't that far, so if you already have the CBR150 go for it. I regularly put 500+ km per day on mine when home and it's never bothered me. The other advantage is that at ~35-40km/L the 10L tank will get you at least 350km.....try that on a 400cc!

[Simonpetterson]

Okay thanks Dave. 500km in one day on a 150, says something about the bike!

One last Q... the down side for me is that the lack of 'presence' the cbr150 has up against a 400, I djust don't love the thi styling.

Has anybody any experience of remodling one: A la

It says its a cbr 150, and studying it it appears to be true, and I'd much prefer one that looked like that!

You just don't seem to see them around though. Any experiences or ideas of how much a remodel might cost. Just for new front and back farings (no need to change the exhaust like the one in the pic - I've never done one to any bike)

Edited June 22, 2009 by Simonpetterson

[thaicbr]

THAT IS NOT A CBR150.

[Simonpetterson]

Fair enough. Is it possible to get a bigger style of fairings for one in BKK. Anybody have any experiences of it?

[submaniac]

Okay thanks Dave. 500km in one day on a 150, says something about the bike!

One last Q... the down side for me is that the lack of 'presence' the cbr150 has up against a 400, I djust don't love the thi styling.

Has anybody any experience of remodling one: A la

It says its a cbr 150, and studying it it appears to be true, and I'd much prefer one that looked like that!

You just don't seem to see them around though. Any experiences or ideas of how much a remodel might cost. Just for new front and back farings (no need to change the exhaust like the one in the pic - I've never done one to any bike)

Ditto. This is not the CBR150. Look at the rear swingarm. Look at the shape of the frame. That's not a cbr150. It's probably a later cbr600. If you look at the classifieds section, you will see I listed the exact same body kit. If you want to swing by to check it against a CBR150 to see if it would fit, you are welcome to.

P.S. the bike in picture appears to be an actual later model (2003-2006) cbr600rr:

Edited June 22, 2009 by submaniac

[Simonpetterson]

thanks, I haven't decided which bike to buy yet and am just researching a bit. Just looked at the classifieds but couldn't see your faring for sale. How much are you selling it for?

[submaniac]

thanks, I haven't decided which bike to buy yet and am just researching a bit. Just looked at the classifieds but couldn't see your faring for sale. How much are you selling it for?

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/Tyga-style-B...ir-t274935.html

negotiable on price. Don't need it because I have an fzr.

[canuckamuck]

Well the search is over. After months of trying to locate a non IRC 110 or 120 rear for my 03 model, I discovered a 120/80 Excella at Red Road by Airport Plaza. It was a second hand tire, but clearly almost brand new. I needed a new chain to get a bit more clearance, but with the price of the chain and install included my bill came to 560 baht, pretty sweet eh?

Here is a couple of pics one compares the old with the new, the other is a profile. I know I seriously need to get rid of that scratched up old muffler.

The tread is quite pronounced, but it should do well in the rain. As for pushing it in the corners, I have learned not to do that anymore.