Honda Cbr150

[oMega69]

Different aftermarket pipes for the CBR ^^

Btw does anyone know 'how' these help increase power (aside from the unrestricted muffler itself) since all of the pipes above seem to have the same little size down-pipes like the stock?

I have the NMF carbon version . , the Can is really small . . and with the db-killer it still awake the deads ., .

I use it 3 hours then the bIb get me the 1000 ticket :/ ., If any one whant to buy ut from me pls let me know . . ,,

[taichiplanet]

Other’s on this forum have said the NMF with DB killer is still way too loud. I just bought a DBS with noise killer from grim-dbs.com (speaks good English). Visit said the cbr muffler is the biggest he has and the noise killer reduces noise by 20-30%; maybe from very bl**dy loud to just bl**dy loud. I'd be happier if the muffler was slightly bigger with a bit more packing. Get my bike back in about a week before I can test it (180cc engine seems nice, not as much stick as I thought but I sort of gently went round the block before handing it back to mechanic for other mods).

Tony at Aseanmoto/Goodspeed has a new ‘racing quiet muffler’, which he guarantees will keep police happy. Sounds like it is using a offset outlet rather than a straight through expansion muffler; “this new technic will make a roll inside muffler, not let them direct straight from muffler so, speed is coming a little effect than straight, but noise is ok for police”

[JUDAS]

Different aftermarket pipes for the CBR ^^

Btw does anyone know 'how' these help increase power (aside from the unrestricted muffler itself) since all of the pipes above seem to have the same little size down-pipes like the stock?

I have the NMF carbon version . , the Can is really small . . and with the db-killer it still awake the deads ., .

I use it 3 hours then the bIb get me the 1000 ticket :/ ., If any one whant to buy ut from me pls let me know . . ,,

I too have decided to remove my NMF exhaust. Original is back on and performance is the same without the deafening racket.

[songoku777]

Hey, i might have mentioned this before.. so flame me if that is the case.

How long should the throttle cable be for keihin pwk 28mm, anyone have a clue?

Thanks guys.

Sorry i dont know. What i know is it's longer -and thats it

I hope these advices are known to be 'advice', dave-boo, can I politely - with no harm intended - ask what your engineering background is?

Anyhow I will add that smaller front sprockets wear out the chain more quickly.

jeff

How will a smaller engine sprocket wear the chain faster? ..unless it's too small that the chain will be brushing on the swing arm more often. Same goes with a very small rear sprocket -same effect. Is that what u meant?

I have the NMF carbon version . , the Can is really small . . and with the db-killer it still awake the deads ., .

I use it 3 hours then the bIb get me the 1000 ticket :/ ., If any one whant to buy ut from me pls let me know . . ,,

soo! ..this nice NMF, even with the DB killer is still way too noisy huh? I was about to get one -until you changed my mind. I want a more open pipe -without too much noise.

Btw., its not a total loss.. if u can't sell it & have to live with it.. just have some MC shop or muffler shop fill it with more material inside.. or something. The can itself looks great ..or you can have your original muffler converted to fit that NMF's down pipe.. that stainless pipe looks more handsome than the stock.

I too have decided to remove my NMF exhaust. Original is back on and performance is the same without the deafening racket.

So an open racing pipe doesn't really make a lot of differece huh? Im not sure since i never actually bought such aftermarket pipes -yet. However i've had mine dissected and fitted with a patented custom made interior (JAD Racing's V8 design, as they call it).. the pipe is straight open.. no chambers.. but it hardly bothers even the most sensitive ears. Ofcourse the exit hole is not as big, but it did improve power a bit. But its definitely MORE OPEN then the stock muffler config. So with that said, having the silent power pipe i already have now won't really make much difference in performance if i get one of those DBS or NMF racing cans. Hmm!

Edited August 17, 2009 by songoku777

[dave_boo]

Sorry i dont know. What i know is it's longer -and thats it

The cable length is the same-same; it's the throttle pull that's the issue. You need one that comes off of a NSR 150 or other bike using the same carb.

How will a smaller engine sprocket wear the chain faster? ..unless it's too small that the chain will be brushing on the swing arm more often. Same goes with a very small rear sprocket -same effect. Is that what u meant?

No, that's not what he meant (I hope). The chain having to turn in a tighter radius wears it out faster. Imagine cutting a horizonital section of a Pepsi can out so it's a strip. Now think what would happen if you wrapped that strip around a pencil---there's a good chance it would break. Not such an issue by having a lower tooth count on the rear sprocket since the radius wouldn't change the same percentage (i.e., going from a 14 to a 15 tooth front is losing ~7% where going going from a 45 to a 44 is losing ~2%....even if you were to go down to 42 on your rear, the diameter is so large that it doesn't put that much of a strain on the chain).

soo! ..this nice NMF, even with the DB killer is still way too noisy huh? I was about to get one -until you changed my mind. I want a more open pipe -without too much noise.

So an open racing pipe doesn't really make a lot of differece huh? Im not sure since i dont know. However i've had mine dissected and fitted with a patented custom made interior.. the pipe is straight open.. no chambers.. but it hardly bothers even the most sensitive ears. Ofcourse the exit hole is not as big, but it did improve power a bit. But its definitely MORE OPEN then the stock muffler config. So with that said, having the silent power pipe i already have now won't really make much difference in performance if i get one of those DBS or NMF racing cans. Hmm!

I would bet that those open pipes probably are a bit counter-productive on a street bike. Low RPM scavenging would be affected and thus the low speed riding would be less than optimal. I'm sure that properly tuned for top end they're fantastic; however who amongst us are strictly riding our bikes at 9 000 RPM? If it was a track bike, go for it...otherwise get something a bit more 'restrictive'. Also, IIRC, there's catalytic convertors in the stock CBR setup; removing that would probably alleviate some of the restriction.

[withnail]

I worry that ANY aftermarket pipe is going to attract the attention of the police regardless of what anyone selling them to you says. It's not like they are going to do an emissions test or measure the noise levels, they'll just take a look at it and realise it's not the original and, more than likely, has the words racing written on it. I was talking to a guy at work today that seemed to think any changes from stock legally need to be recorded in your green book.

I have been looking at maybe getting a new downpipe put on the stock silencer. Faddybike quoted me 3200 Baht for this and said it would be done in 3 weeks as they are made to order.

[T_Dog]

I worry that ANY aftermarket pipe is going to attract the attention of the police regardless of what anyone selling them to you says. It's not like they are going to do an emissions test or measure the noise levels, they'll just take a look at it and realise it's not the original and, more than likely, has the words racing written on it. I was talking to a guy at work today that seemed to think any changes from stock legally need to be recorded in your green book.

I have been looking at maybe getting a new downpipe put on the stock silencer. Faddybike quoted me 3200 Baht for this and said it would be done in 3 weeks as they are made to order.

I think wjmark put on a stainless steel oversize downpipe so maybe he can comment on the noise increase and performance difference, IF my memory serves me right. I need to do this soon as well as my stock downtube is pretty corroded.

[phobic]

Thanks Dave_boo and songoku777 for the replies. My Domino fast throttle should do be able to do the work then.

I got a aftermarket pipe and stock muffler on my bike and it sounds pretty similar to a stock one, i had it modified though so it sounds a bit more..

I drove the bike in bkk alot and got pulled over by the BiB but they never mentioned the downpipe, my guess is that if they hear its really loud they will fine ya or if they see its a aftermarket can they will fine ya aswell.

Withnail check this link, downpipe.. its in thai so get someone to translate to contact the seller.

1200bht for it i think, dont know about the quality though but worth checking out.

/peace

Edited August 17, 2009 by phobic

[wjmark]

I worry that ANY aftermarket pipe is going to attract the attention of the police regardless of what anyone selling them to you says. It's not like they are going to do an emissions test or measure the noise levels, they'll just take a look at it and realise it's not the original and, more than likely, has the words racing written on it. I was talking to a guy at work today that seemed to think any changes from stock legally need to be recorded in your green book.

I have been looking at maybe getting a new downpipe put on the stock silencer. Faddybike quoted me 3200 Baht for this and said it would be done in 3 weeks as they are made to order.

I think wjmark put on a stainless steel oversize downpipe so maybe he can comment on the noise increase and performance difference, IF my memory serves me right. I need to do this soon as well as my stock downtube is pretty corroded.

Yup!

Stainless down-pipe - 2500bt. This coupled with some holes in the air box really changed the bike. Much nippier.

It is definitely louder and buzzier, but not extreme - nothing like changing the muffler. Cops don't even blink when I pass by.

And T-Dog, let's be clear - it is not really an 'oversized' pipe - it is just that the stock one is undersized. The inside diameter of the stock pipe is smaller than the exhaust port on the engine. Just one of the ways that Honda 'de-tuned' the bike for normal street usage (I believe that is their motive).

The restrictive air-box, the CDI limiting at 11.5k (clearly 13k is not a problem for the engine), the 44 tooth rear sprocket (47 and my bike actually has a higher top end, and gets there more quickly), the small down-pipe, etc have all de-tuned the bike.

So to open up the bike to its 'normal' potential:

Holes in the air-box, unlimited CDI, change the down-pipe (and muffler if you don't care about noise), 47 tooth rear sprocket, fancy spark plug, fancy spark plug cable, synthetic oil (I do believe I felt some performance difference with the synthetic), 95 octane fuel...

.... and it is a different bike (same same but different - wah wah wah wah!).

The only thing I haven't done (this is all called 'stage 1' mods, isn't it?) is go to a bigger carb. Still running the stock jet too. The only problem I have with the bike is a slight dead spot from 6-7 k revs, but it sure lights up over 7k. I usually cruise at 9k+, so not much of a concern.

Don't forget to get good rubber.

One more thing - I removed most of the plastic stick-on decals from the bike, and that made it not only more beautiful (black is beautiful - Repsol is so ugly), but also faster (less wind resistance!).

Oh God how I miss my bike (and my girl-friend too...).

Back in about a month................

Edited August 17, 2009 by wjmark

[phobic]

I worry that ANY aftermarket pipe is going to attract the attention of the police regardless of what anyone selling them to you says. It's not like they are going to do an emissions test or measure the noise levels, they'll just take a look at it and realise it's not the original and, more than likely, has the words racing written on it. I was talking to a guy at work today that seemed to think any changes from stock legally need to be recorded in your green book.

I have been looking at maybe getting a new downpipe put on the stock silencer. Faddybike quoted me 3200 Baht for this and said it would be done in 3 weeks as they are made to order.

I think wjmark put on a stainless steel oversize downpipe so maybe he can comment on the noise increase and performance difference, IF my memory serves me right. I need to do this soon as well as my stock downtube is pretty corroded.

Yup!

Stainless down-pipe - 2500bt. This coupled with some holes in the air box really changed the bike. Much nippier.

It is definitely louder and buzzier, but not extreme - nothing like changing the muffler. Cops don't even blink when I pass by.

And T-Dog, let's be clear - it is not really an 'oversized' pipe - it is just that the stock one is undersized. The inside diameter of the stock pipe is smaller than the exhaust port on the engine. Just one of the ways that Honda 'de-tuned' the bike for normal street usage (I believe that is their motive).

The restrictive air-box, the CDI limiting at 11.5k (clearly 13k is not a problem for the engine), the 44 tooth rear sprocket (47 and my bike actually has a higher top end, and gets there more quickly), the small down-pipe, etc have all de-tuned the bike.

So to open up the bike to its 'normal' potential:

Holes in the air-box, unlimited CDI, change the down-pipe (and muffler if you don't care about noise), 47 tooth rear sprocket, fancy spark plug, fancy spark plug cable, synthetic oil (I do believe I felt some performance difference with the synthetic), 95 octane fuel...

.... and it is a different bike (same same but different - wah wah wah wah!).

The only thing I haven't done (this is all called 'stage 1' mods, isn't it?) is go to a bigger carb. Still running the stock jet too. The only problem I have with the bike is a slight dead spot from 6-7 k revs, but it sure lights up over 7k. I usually cruise at 9k+, so not much of a concern.

Don't forget to get good rubber.

One more thing - I removed most of the plastic stick-on decals from the bike, and that made it not only more beautiful (black is beautiful - Repsol is so ugly), but also faster (less wind resistance!).

Oh God how I miss my bike (and my girl-friend too...).

Back in about a month................

Where did you drill the new holes in the airbox? and how biggish? maybe a stupid question.........

Edited August 17, 2009 by phobic

[Arctic]

What do I need to state when purchasing bulbs or xenon conversion kit?

Poor headlight output (from factory) - What can I do to improve it?

I bought myself a new CBR 150R a few months back. I love just about everything about it, except the light output - especially so the low beam. I'm not an expert, but the bike is equipped with twin headlights with fairly large reflectors. Hence I was expecting to see serious amounts of light on the dark Thai roads at night. Admittedly, I'm not in my 20's anymore. But I do feel that a lot of the scooters (Honda Airblade etc.) spreads wider and stronger light on the road. I have no reason to believe that anything should be wrong with my bike - I guess this is the way all CBR 150's shines.....?

Is there anything I can do to improve the light output? I'm not really tempted to switch to the overwattaged, blinding bulbs commonly seen on Thai youngsters bikes. But maybe there's a "legally boosted", suitable quality alternative from Osram or any of the other manufacturers that would be enough to fix my issue?

I would be happy for any input on this. I'm currently in Europe. If changing bulbs is the answer, what kind of bulb socket (H1 etc.) should I look for?

Thank's,

Arctic

Thank's Songoku777,

I understand the bulb type is H6, and the light is AC-fed. What more do I need to tell the staff in the European shop in order to get the proper bulb or xenon conversion kit? What wattage (if only changing to another non-xenon bulb) should I look for? If I choose to go for the xenon conversion kit, should I stick to H6, or would it be just as easy to switch to and install H4 if I was to buy a H4-kit?

[JUDAS]

Took the bike out yesterday with the standard exhaust back on and noted some figures. Found myself a real long piece of quiet straight tarmac and got the following:

Absolute top speed in normal riding position: 125kph @9,500rpm

Absolute top speed, fully tucked: 145kph@11,000rpm

So, it would appear that my bike is performing fairly normally again, BTW I'm 90kg(ish)

[dave_boo]

Took the bike out yesterday with the standard exhaust back on and noted some figures. Found myself a real long piece of quiet straight tarmac and got the following:

Absolute top speed in normal riding position: 125kph @9,500rpm

Absolute top speed, fully tucked: 145kph@11,000rpm

So, it would appear that my bike is performing fairly normally again, BTW I'm 90kg(ish)

Now you have two options to go faster. a)Lose some weight (and I'm heavier than you). or b)Follow wjmark's recommendation about gearing.

[JUDAS]

Took the bike out yesterday with the standard exhaust back on and noted some figures. Found myself a real long piece of quiet straight tarmac and got the following:

Absolute top speed in normal riding position: 125kph @9,500rpm

Absolute top speed, fully tucked: 145kph@11,000rpm

So, it would appear that my bike is performing fairly normally again, BTW I'm 90kg(ish)

Now you have two options to go faster. a)Lose some weight (and I'm heavier than you). or b)Follow wjmark's recommendation about gearing.

Was a steady 75 kg until I packed in working 2 years ago. I'll go with choice B

[jbeck]

Can someone tell me the CBR inner fork tube diameter, and how much of the tube is exposed above the triple clamp (in millimeters), stock?

Thanks,

Jeff

[Morien]

My tires are almost bald. Could someone suggest some tires for the CBR and where I can get them in Chiang Mai city?

Since I'm a decent size I'd like some that would offer me a little more oomph too.

How much would I expect to pay for the front and back installed?

Thanks

[PeaceBlondie]

If you browse the last several pages of this thread you'll find Michelin and Pirelli, with locations in Chiang Mai

[T_Dog]

If you browse the last several pages of this thread you'll find Michelin and Pirelli, with locations in Chiang Mai

PeaceBlondie, did you ever find the Big Bike Shop on the way to the airport? Wondering how you made out and what sizes you might have gotten.

[PeaceBlondie]

If you browse the last several pages of this thread you'll find Michelin and Pirelli, with locations in Chiang Mai

PeaceBlondie, did you ever find the Big Bike Shop on the way to the airport? Wondering how you made out and what sizes you might have gotten.

I'm not sure. I found a shop there with big red sign "Chiang Mai Bike Shop." Tires now near 10K km, not worn yet.

[Morien]

If you browse the last several pages of this thread you'll find Michelin and Pirelli, with locations in Chiang Mai

I get kind of lost in it all. I saw one of your posts mentioning Michelins on Mahidol Rd, but I couldn't find any other mention of it. What shop sells them?

Thanks

[jbeck]

If you browse the last several pages of this thread you'll find Michelin and Pirelli, with locations in Chiang Mai

I get kind of lost in it all. I saw one of your posts mentioning Michelins on Mahidol Rd, but I couldn't find any other mention of it. What shop sells them?

Thanks

I just bought a set of Michelin Pilot Sporty size 90/80 front 100/80 rear for 2900B from the shop on mahidol road.

I think they're too big for my Suzuki Raider, now I'm sure that bigger is not always better. Stock Raider size was 70/90, 80/90.

My rims are thinner and bike is about 60lbs lighter than the CBR.

Anyway if you're interested to buy, PM me, they have about 5km and were professionally installed.

Jeff

[T_Dog]

If you browse the last several pages of this thread you'll find Michelin and Pirelli, with locations in Chiang Mai

I get kind of lost in it all. I saw one of your posts mentioning Michelins on Mahidol Rd, but I couldn't find any other mention of it. What shop sells them?

Thanks

Morien. That shop is on the road between the moat and the Airport Mall, aka Mahidol Road. Look for bikes on a row of shop houses and ask to talk to Pipat. He is the owner of Chiang Mai Biker Shop. This place is rather easy to miss so as soon as you leave the moat, stay in the left lane and go slow. He can get the tires for you and get them installed by a tire shop he knows. He also found some "extra" things to do to my bike so be wary of that. Not sure my front wheel needed new bearings and the old ones weren't provided.

[wjmark]

Where did you drill the new holes in the airbox? and how biggish? maybe a stupid question.........

Actually, it is the other way around. I have a stupid answer to a good question. I don't know!

My mechanic did it, and I never looked at what he did. I do know that when I first took the airbox completely off and put on a big K&N air filter, the noise was objectionably loud.

I am guessing only - perhaps two holes golf-ball size?

Anyone?

Mark

ps - I will look when I get back next month...

[dave_boo]

Actually wjmark, you're on the right track...drill as many as you can stand.

For a high revving engine the better the intake flow the better it runs. Note however that you can defeat some of the design intents; ever wonder why the airbox is the volume that it is? It's because the designers figured out the volume needed to provide a steady charge of air rather than the carbs 'gulp' 'gulp' 'gulp'.

So what you end up with is opening the airbox enough to allow it to breathe the way it wants to (the engineers are constrained by various regulatory requirements such as noise pollution) but not enough to 'starve' it by limiting the the pressure it can keep inside.

And to head off any criticism that I'm "talking out of my ass", read up on Helmhotlz Resonance and then decide whether I'm full of it.

Edited August 18, 2009 by dave_boo

[withnail]

Am I right you can get two types of K&N filter including one that just replaces the original filter i.e. requires no mods. In this case is it already an improvement or would drilling the holes still be necessary?

[dave_boo]

Am I right you can get two types of K&N filter including one that just replaces the original filter i.e. requires no mods. In this case is it already an improvement or would drilling the holes still be necessary?

It would be an improvement...note that I am not saying don't drill holes into your airbox cover, but same-same as sex, make sure you do it responsibly. Do a test hole as far away from the carb as possible and take it for a ride; if you're happy with the results and 'feel lucky' go ahead and enlarge it.

If you get to the point that it's too far, than get yourself a new lid from Honda and repeat up till the last hole---the lids can't be that expensive.

And fluid dynamics, which rules the airbox design, is at best an imprecise science. The engineers are occasionally tasked with redoing sections of a vehicle simply to placate the designers....and it's not uncommon for them to do hands on testing themselves to figure out what is optimal working within the confines of various outside parties.

[phobic]

Where did you drill the new holes in the airbox? and how biggish? maybe a stupid question.........

Actually, it is the other way around. I have a stupid answer to a good question. I don't know!

My mechanic did it, and I never looked at what he did. I do know that when I first took the airbox completely off and put on a big K&N air filter, the noise was objectionably loud.

I am guessing only - perhaps two holes golf-ball size?

Anyone?

Mark

ps - I will look when I get back next month...

Ok cool thanks, ill wait then.

I tried the cone/cylinder type airfilter too, and yes it sounds 100 times more.. but i did noticed some more pull on lowrange bit but a bit less in high gears.. running with airbox now though.

/peace

[songoku777]

Thank's Songoku777,

I understand the bulb type is H6, and the light is AC-fed. What more do I need to tell the staff in the European shop in order to get the proper bulb or xenon conversion kit? What wattage (if only changing to another non-xenon bulb) should I look for? If I choose to go for the xenon conversion kit, should I stick to H6, or would it be just as easy to switch to and install H4 if I was to buy a H4-kit?

Just tell them u want a pair (sometimes sold separately) of 12v (H6 type) halogen bulbs. the stock is not halogen (those are stanleys -ordinary bulbs) 18w.. just a little brighter than common automobile break lights (not very good illumination) ..I then switched to 12v H6 yellow halogen bulbs 18w ..they're crappy too. I changed to 12v H6 non-colored halogen bulbs 25w this time.. better. Still no signs of burns or over heating. Then I put on 12w original stanley bulbs 35w this time since i didn't want to overdo the wattage and they might burn.. several months, no signs of burns or overheating whatsoever.. Finally i got these blue 12v plasma bulbs H6 type still 35w.. the best i've tried so far.

I strongly recommend you install a headlight kill-switch so you can turn them off in traffic and waiting at well lit intersections. Btw., Raider switch assemblies work well.. most CBR's who install a switch on their's get switch assemblies from the Raider150.

Can someone tell me the CBR inner fork tube diameter, and how much of the tube is exposed above the triple clamp (in millimeters), stock?

Thanks,

Jeff

Sorry for the INACCURATE INFO .. by sight, i measured it about 25mm ..i cant find my caliper. Mine's no longer stock.. i adjusted the front suspension a bit, lowered the front and made the damping harder. Now i got about 3" (762mm) of tube exposed above the upper triple clamp. If im not mistaken, the stock is only about 1" (254mm) exposed. I may be slightly inaccurate here.

Where did you drill the new holes in the airbox? and how biggish? maybe a stupid question.........

Actually, it is the other way around. I have a stupid answer to a good question. I don't know!

My mechanic did it, and I never looked at what he did. I do know that when I first took the airbox completely off and put on a big K&N air filter, the noise was objectionably loud.

I am guessing only - perhaps two holes golf-ball size?

Anyone?

Mark

ps - I will look when I get back next month...

IMO, the holes(s) on the airbox should be about the same size as the amount of air the exhaust (depending on your muffler type) can pass out through. How bout pingpongs instead of golf balls?

IMO again, I'd bias more on the exhaust -with the principle of getting the combustion chamber cleared as much as possible. An intake port too big (not in proportion to the exhaust) might only make the machine eat more gas -increase in power might not be as much.

[jbeck]

Can someone tell me the CBR inner fork tube diameter, and how much of the tube is exposed above the triple clamp (in millimeters), stock?

Thanks,

Jeff

Can someone actually measure at least the inner fork tube diameter, I don't need the fork height in the triple clamps.

Thanks,

Jeff

[Yimmy]

Sorry to bother y'all chaps, but I bought my 4 year old cbr about 2 months ago, and the last few days have noticed an oil puddle underneath the front of the bike, yesterday is when it was really noticed, anyway, after a spin this morning I left it out for 1 1/2 hours, then went down with my camera:

Quite sizable for only an hour or so.

Where it appears to be coming from:

(yes it also needs a wash) This is where the exhaust pipe meets the engine I guess. I know nothing about engines.

Can anybody diagnose a probable problem, and a cure?

(could be something big like a cracked engine, could be something minor like a loose bolt, me don't know)

Thanks.