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Posted
5 hours ago, Wombo1 said:

It looks like your trying to replicate the demin water system from your work ????

 

next just add in an enraf system

ENRAF will do just fine. Rosemount Emerson is more common in my old industry, but that is a bit of an over kill.

The data logger is still in transit, hope it will arrive before the rainy season.

 

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Posted
32 minutes ago, ExpatOilWorker said:

ENRAF will do just fine. Rosemount Emerson is more common in my old industry, but that is a bit of an over kill.

The data logger is still in transit, hope it will arrive before the rainy season.

 

rosemount-765-sensor-2-tank-gauging-system-data-4686614.jpg

Yeah I have used those as well.

 

But I cut my teeth on the old wire float level ENRAF 802s, now that was a headache. They eventually got replaced with the Radars when it was impossible to get spares.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
42 minutes ago, sezze said:

So you didn’t bother to watch the review or read the thread where those are posted?

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted
6 hours ago, Wombo1 said:

Nice to see the filters, and they dont seem to be backing the water up in the line too much.

Each of the 3 roofs have 4 filters, or 5 if you include the gutter screen.

Time will tell how often I have to change/clean the filters but so far so good after about 300 mm of rain in October.

 

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Posted
5 hours ago, ExpatOilWorker said:

Each of the 3 roofs have 4 filters, or 5 if you include the gutter screen.

Time will tell how often I have to change/clean the filters but so far so good after about 300 mm of rain in October.

 

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Screenshot_20211104-160620_Chart Maker.jpg

I like that bird nest filter.

Where did you get it?

Posted

The Nuclear reactor is up and running. Note the floating temperature sensor in the center of the picture. 

The UV light is not submerged in water, it is just a reflection in the now 2.3 m deep crystal clear water.

 

20211106_154341.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, ExpatOilWorker said:

A few more pictures of the reactor. 

 

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I suggest swapping the near UV LEDs for a genuine UV C bulb it will also give of O3 to kill off anything. They are extremely effective.66201EC2-827F-4FDB-A38F-EC48ABEB98E2.thumb.png.1baadc720f4b8a7f7cddc5004c79d7ba.png

Posted
3 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

I suggest swapping the near UV LEDs for a genuine UV C bulb it will also give of O3 to kill off anything. They are extremely effective.66201EC2-827F-4FDB-A38F-EC48ABEB98E2.thumb.png.1baadc720f4b8a7f7cddc5004c79d7ba.png

It is actually a proper UV-C sterilization light bulb, but from research even UV-C light loses any sterilization effect within a few feet in air and only penetrate a few mm in water. To sterilize the water I would have to set up a recirculation bypass system, so for now it is just a fun gimmick. 

 

Screenshot_20211107-115944_AliExpress.jpg

Posted
1 hour ago, ExpatOilWorker said:

It is actually a proper UV-C sterilization light bulb, but from research even UV-C light loses any sterilization effect within a few feet in air and only penetrate a few mm in water. To sterilize the water I would have to set up a recirculation bypass system, so for now it is just a fun gimmick. 

That is why I suggested the bulb I linked to, as it produces a reasonably high volume of O3 in a short time.
 

My 400 CuM workshop gets a little over 3 hours 4 times a week finishing about 5 hours before I go in and I can easily tell the days that it’s been on.

 

as to the power of UVC the inverse square law applies for killing pathogens but what the UVC doesn’t get the Owill also for killing bugs in the water Cl at 4 parts per million is extremely effective  or a couple of spoonfuls of bleach occasionally preferably liquid chlorine bleach

Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

That is why I suggested the bulb I linked to, as it produces a reasonably high volume of O3 in a short time.
 

My 400 CuM workshop gets a little over 3 hours 4 times a week finishing about 5 hours before I go in and I can easily tell the days that it’s been on.

 

as to the power of UVC the inverse square law applies for killing pathogens but what the UVC doesn’t get the Owill also for killing bugs in the water Cl at 4 parts per million is extremely effective  or a couple of spoonfuls of bleach occasionally preferably liquid chlorine bleach

My man cave is about 100 m3, so I have ordered the 15 W UVC light and a weekly plug type timer.

Thanks for the tip.

 

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Edited by ExpatOilWorker
Posted
On 11/7/2021 at 8:39 AM, sometimewoodworker said:

I suggest swapping the near UV LEDs for a genuine UV C bulb it will also give of O3 to kill off anything. They are extremely effective.66201EC2-827F-4FDB-A38F-EC48ABEB98E2.thumb.png.1baadc720f4b8a7f7cddc5004c79d7ba.png

Also available at Lazada, at a very reasonable  price.

67% Off | 2X E27 Ultraviolet UV Light Tube Bulb Disinfection Lamp Germicidal Lamp Bulb 15W Ozone UV Lamp 220V | https://s.lazada.co.th/s.fEVjS

 

 

 

Screenshot_20211109-061500_Lazada.jpg

  • 1 month later...
Posted
7 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

It’s to dump the first rainfall that will be severely contaminated by dust, bird c*r*a*p etc, then dump out the larger heavier crud that won’t go down the diverter into the collector/filter.

That is absolut correct. 

I was actually thinking of pinch the valve open just a tiny bit, so it can take multiple first flush before a full dump is required. 

The larger leaf filter is a 12" PVC pipe with a nylon screen.

It is working so well that the in-tank filters only see the finer stuff.

 

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Posted
54 minutes ago, ExpatOilWorker said:

That is absolut correct. 

I was actually thinking of pinch the valve open just a tiny bit, so it can take multiple first flush before a full dump is required. 

The larger leaf filter is a 12" PVC pipe with a nylon screen.

It is working so well that the in-tank filters only see the finer stuff.

 

 

If you angle the collector at 45o and instead of having a mosquito net catch bag have a tight mosquito net drum surface water will still flow down and through while leaf litter and other larger stuff will usually drop off the side, this would reduce maintenance and could also reduce even some of the finer stuff going into the tank.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 12/12/2021 at 10:50 PM, sometimewoodworker said:

It’s to dump the first rainfall that will be severely contaminated by dust, bird c*r*a*p etc, then dump out the larger heavier crud that won’t go down the diverter into the collector/filter.

However, the dirt will still come in, anyway once you do not have a rain every day. Actually, the dirt is not only the heavier one, but from the vegetation fine fall - in case you do have some vegetation around, the case of Thailand (with exception of some Bkk Moo Baans).

 

This fine vegetation dirt is not really green but black, flying off the trees around, residues of the decaying leaves, blossoms, collecting during few days laying on the roof, further getting finer and darker by strong sunshine.  In my place of strong vegetation around, even without much strong winds in area.

 

After every rainy season I find a heavy black mud few cm thick at the bottom of the collecting tanks, needed to flush it out with a strong water stream. That's why I re-pump the water timely into the reservoir for house general use, once it is settled, not letting it in directly.

 

   

  • 1 month later...
Guest StephenB
Posted (edited)

I would like to pipe in on this thread. I use the same sensor in the first post and have it hooked up to a Arduino Uno with wifi. I have some trouble with this drop in sensor when one of the 3 pumps start taking water out of the tank. The readings get distorted. But anyway this may be a idea for some as well. The main purpose of my setup was to manage irrigation pumps and the well that fills up the cistern, eventually down the road it will be all solar power except for the pump that feeds the house (pressure tank). The Arduino sends mqtt (mosquito) messages to a broker. The broker handles the messages. Another program call openhab is running on a raspberry pi, this subscribes to topics on the broker. It may sound complicated but the only hard part is learning basic C++ to write a program yourself to turn on and off relays. The only way to control this setup is through web gui. This is a really thrifty setup and can also log history into a nice chart. The Ardunio use something like .1 watts, a raspi uses 4 maybe. So its energy efficient as well.

 

edit:Throw in sensor https://www.arduitronics.com/product/4288/gravity-throw-in-type-liquid-level-transmitter-เซ็นเซอร์วัดระดับน้ำ-water-level-sensor-0-5m-แท้จาก-d

Edited by StephenB
Added link of similar sensor

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