Jump to content

Electric Vehicles in Thailand


Recommended Posts

I had an electrician fit some automatic transfer switches so I can run my refrigerator, lights, TV & Air Conditioning in my bedroom and the Water Pump from my car.

 

I will sell my 28.8KwHr of LFP batteries as using the car is a much more elegant & cheaper solution.

 

 

Temp.jpg

  • Confused 1
  • Love It 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, JBChiangRai said:

I had an electrician fit some automatic transfer switches so I can run my refrigerator, lights, TV & Air Conditioning in my bedroom and the Water Pump from my car.

 

I will sell my 28.8KwHr of LFP batteries as using the car is a much more elegant & cheaper solution.

 

Nice setup.

 

I have found that my BYD Seal is much more efficient at providing backup power than my home solar setup.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If & when they change my spinning meter for digital, I can switch over the air con in my bedroom to run from the car overnight and charge it back up from grid-tied solar set to no export.

  • Confused 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, JBChiangRai said:

I had an electrician fit some automatic transfer switches so I can run my refrigerator, lights, TV & Air Conditioning in my bedroom and the Water Pump from my car.

 

I will sell my 28.8KwHr of LFP batteries as using the car is a much more elegant & cheaper solution.

 

 

Temp.jpg

And reducing the life time of your car battery??? Have you thought about that 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, JBChiangRai said:

 

Absolute nonsense.

Well, up to you. I did my calculation and it's not worth using solar panels on my house. Sad but true. 

Btw, I own an EV and charge it using TOU tariff from MEA. 

ROI of solar with battery storage was between 10 and 15 years. Simply not worth it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, UWEB said:

If you have an EV Car and charging at home from Solar it will heavy reduce the ROI for a System.

Not if you are using TOU

Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, CLW said:

And reducing the life time of your car battery??? Have you thought about that 

 

My EV battery is guaranteed for 8 years and I think that may be about to increase if BYD follow MG's lead.

 

20 minutes ago, CLW said:

Well, up to you. I did my calculation and it's not worth using solar panels on my house. Sad but true. 

Btw, I own an EV and charge it using TOU tariff from MEA. 

ROI of solar with battery storage was between 10 and 15 years. Simply not worth it. 

 

It depends where you buy it from.  I installed 28.8KwHrs of battery and 22kw of panels etc and my ROI is about 5 years.  If you just go grid-tied no export (which is what I would recommend for anyone with TOU meter) then your ROI could well be under 3 years.

 

 

19 minutes ago, CLW said:

Not if you are using TOU

 

A TOU meter shortens your ROI time with grid-tied systems.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, CLW said:

Not if you are using TOU

Better to go back to School and start learning to read, I was talking about Solar. Not TOU.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/11/2024 at 12:20 AM, vinny41 said:

Starting in Thailand, MG has announced that they will be starting a program wherein EV models will have a lifetime warranty for 3 critical components of the EV drive system: the high voltage battery assembly (HV Battery Assy), the electric drive unit (EDU), and the power electronic block (PEB). That practically covers all the major components of the drive system, and provides unprecedented peace of mind for EV owners.

Initially, MG Thailand will start offering this for four of their existing models: the MG4, the MG Maxus 9, the MG Maxus 7, and the MG Cyberster. MG says the warranty will be retroactive to customers in Thailand who already own any of the 4 MG models mentioned.  Critically, they say that the warranty carries over even when the ownership of the vehicle has changed. The warranty is attached to the vehicle, not the first owner.

https://www.autoindustriya.com/auto-industry-news/gamechanger-mg-has-begun-to-offer-lifetime-ev-battery-warranty.html


With a lifetime warranty , does it NOT matter now having an NMC battery car and charge to 100% daily and not worry on longevity ( lFp battery had the advantage of charging 100 versus NMC to only 80 % to prolong longevity of battery wear. 


 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, josephbloggs said:


Honestly this is really interesting for people who don't understand the unbelievable capacity these batteries have and how little impact things like AC have on them in the overall scheme of things. It is hard to compute for most people. Luckily most people refrain from making silly blanket statements....

If the capacity is so great, why is the range so small? 

  • Like 1
  • Confused 6
  • Agree 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Pib said:

 

Wow....this is a big change...hopefully BYD and others will follow suit for old and new customers in order to remain competitive.  Such a warranty would definitely wipe-out a major reason some people are reluctant to buy an EV.   Below is another web article talking the MG change.

 

https://www.mgcars.com/en/NewsActivities/Detail/MG-Lifetime-Battery-Warranty

While the move is welcome it is important that the MG owners that are affected by this change read the terms and conditions and the exclusions and understand the term of a lifetime warranty and eol as many people have different interpretations about the meaning of a lifetime warranty

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/19/2024 at 2:12 PM, CLW said:

Unless you can sell the electricity, solar is not financially feasible in Thailand. For the investment cost you could use grid power for approximately 15 years. 

 

Still waiting for a breakdown of your calculations for 15 year payback for solar 

 

You claim to have an EV, but no details offered as to which one.

 

Let me help you with your calculations

 

I make a saving on my previous PEA bill and powering my EVs of ฿8k a month let’s assume you save half that

 

฿4k x 180 months = ฿720,000

 

So your solar system would have to cost you ฿720,000!

 

Let’s assume you get a quote for a 10:10:10 system

 

Main Components would cost 
10,000 Watts of PV @ ฿5/W = ฿50,000
10kWh Batteries @ ฿5k/kWh = ฿50,000
10kW of Inversion @ ฿5k/kW = ฿50,000
Total = ฿150,000

 

to which you have to add ancillary items like cables, rails, clamps, breakers, combiner boxes plus fitting

 

A supply and fit quote would include mark up on your components as well but even so we are nowhere near ฿720,000

I’m calling bs on your 15 years payback

 

  • Thumbs Up 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/19/2024 at 2:12 PM, CLW said:

Unless you can sell the electricity, solar is not financially feasible in Thailand. For the investment cost you could use grid power for approximately 15 years. 


With your TOU meter and a self install, you may achieve ROI in as little as 2 years.

 

A TOU meter is a positive indication for a grid-tied system.

 

I designed my first 6kw grid-tied system myself and my usual sparky was only too happy to install it himself as he wanted to learn about Solar. 
 

A 3Kw grid-tied system could cost you as little as 50,000 baht, and save you 2,500 baht per month on your TOU meter.

  • Love It 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, JBChiangRai said:

A 3Kw grid-tied system could cost you as little as 50,000 baht, and save you 2,500 baht per month on your TOU meter.

If 3 or 5kW system installed specifically for the EV, and home during the day, ROI would be <1-2 yrs if driving 20k kms locally.   That would save 54k baht per year, and petrol (91) is now more expensive than when I did those calculations.   Comparing cost of MG ZS ICE vs BEV, which I owned/own both.

 

That's our potential saving charging the ZS at home on solar, if only driving locally.

 

ROI isn't even considering the savings off the house use of electric from PEA/MEA.   Just another uninformed post from an uninformed member.  Why do they bother ... :coffee1:

 

Our 8kWh system with 20kWh of ESS will have a ROI from <4 years to 6 years, depending how much we abuse the AC and drive unnecessarily.  Are system wasn't exactly inexpensive, or DIY.

 

Real life experiences vs BS :coffee1:

Edited by KhunLA
  • Confused 1
  • Love It 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, KhunLA said:

Anyone replace their 12v lead acid battery with a lithium one yet ?  Where did you source the battery ?

 

TIA


I replaced the batteries on my daughter’s Kawasaki Ninja 400 and Honda Scoopy with Lithium batteries that have an inbuilt BMS. A friend of mine was importing them (he got my solar ESS too) he killed himself on his motorcycle and I was left with all his stock to dispose of. I have seen them advertised on Lazada

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

53 minutes ago, JBChiangRai said:


I replaced the batteries on my daughter’s Kawasaki Ninja 400 and Honda Scoopy with Lithium batteries that have an inbuilt BMS. A friend of mine was importing them (he got my solar ESS too) he killed himself on his motorcycle and I was left with all his stock to dispose of. I have seen them advertised on Lazada

This is for the MG ZS, as may need to replace.  63Ah is in it now.  Seeing lead acid GS brand (LN2-DIN65 DL EFB) for <฿3k online.  No local dealer, and would prefer to upgrade to a lithium.

Lithium for ZS.png

Edited by KhunLA
Link to comment
Share on other sites

56 minutes ago, KhunLA said:

Anyone replace their 12v lead acid battery with a lithium one yet ?  Where did you source the battery ?

 

TIA

I'm sure you are aware the charging profile/100% charged level for a 12V flooded lead acid, 12V absorbed glass mat (AGM) , and 12V lithium type battery are different.   And of course when saying 12V battery it means "nominal" 12V as the actuall voltage when 100% charged for a flooded 12V battery is approx 12.7V, AGM 13.0V, and lithium 14.4V.     See below chart that gives an overview of various voltage levels. 

 

Additionally, there are different types of AGM batteries---some designed for high Cold Cranking Amperage (CCA) needed to start ICEV....some designed for deep cycle operation where the CCA is lower but can be cycled deeply like for longer running time and running electrical applicance, a boat electric motor, etc.  If going the AGM route just be sure to get one geared for starting vehicles if used on an ICEV....but since you are looking at a replacement battery for you EV where high cranking power is not needed a deep cycle AGM should be better than a high CCA AGM battery....but either AGM type should be fine for an EV....and better than a flooded 12V battery....howevver,  an AGM will cost more than a flooded battery.  

 

The charging profile (i.e.., Constant Voltage/Constant Current profile) for a 12V flooded and AGM are different but only by a little bit.  Switching from a flooded 12V battery to AGM 12V battery is commonly done on vehicles since the charging profile is similar.  But if using a lithium type battery it will never get fully charged to 100% if the EV's DC-DC convertor circuit which charges the 12V battery is set for a lead acid type battery.....geared to fully charge to a voltage "less" than what a lithium type battery needs.  You could install a lithium type battery and your EV which is programmed to charge a 12V lead acid type battery and therefore the lithium type battery would never be fully charged. 

 

Just switching from a lead acid type battery to a lithium type battery does not automatically mean it's a good idea...will result in longer battery life...will result in more Amp-Hour running time UNLESS the charging circuit/profile is also designed for the battery type being used.

 

https://www.renogy.com/blog/expectations-vs-reality-making-sense-of-battery-voltage-percentages/

 

image.png.8d78a6843574f3657f9b0304c87d4dd3.png

  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, Pib said:

I'm sure you are aware the charging profile/100% charged level for a 12V flooded lead acid, 12V absorbed glass mat (AGM) , and 12V lithium type battery are different.   And of course when saying 12V battery it means "nominal" 12V as the actuall voltage when 100% charged for a flooded 12V battery is approx 12.7V, AGM 13.0V, and lithium 14.4V.     See below chart that gives an overview of various voltage levels. 

 

Additionally, there are different types of AGM batteries---some designed for high Cold Cranking Amperage (CCA) needed to start ICEV....some designed for deep cycle operation where the CCA is lower but can be cycled deeply like for longer running time and running electrical applicance, a boat electric motor, etc.  If going the AGM route just be sure to get one geared for starting vehicles if used on an ICEV....but since you are looking at a replacement battery for you EV where high cranking power is not needed a deep cycle AGM should be better than a high CCA AGM battery....but either AGM type should be fine for an EV....and better than a flooded 12V battery....howevver,  an AGM will cost more than a flooded battery.  

 

The charging profile (i.e.., Constant Voltage/Constant Current profile) for a 12V flooded and AGM are different but only by a little bit.  Switching from a flooded 12V battery to AGM 12V battery is commonly done on vehicles since the charging profile is similar.  But if using a lithium type battery it will never get fully charged to 100% if the EV's DC-DC convertor circuit which charges the 12V battery is set for a lead acid type battery.....geared to fully charge to a voltage "less" than what a lithium type battery needs.  You could install a lithium type battery and your EV which is programmed to charge a 12V lead acid type battery and therefore the lithium type battery would never be fully charged. 

 

Just switching from a lead acid type battery to a lithium type battery does not automatically mean it's a good idea...will result in longer battery life...will result in more Amp-Hour running time UNLESS the charging circuit/profile is also designed for the battery type being used.

 

https://www.renogy.com/blog/expectations-vs-reality-making-sense-of-battery-voltage-percentages/

 

image.png.8d78a6843574f3657f9b0304c87d4dd3.png

We were getting the '12v fault warning', and watching the  gauge monitoring it, and it was fuctuating between 11v & 14.1, and occasionally dippin below 11v, down to 10.2v.   Fault warning came on more than a few times while driving home.   Have appt at MG tomorrow, check make sure it's the battery and not the charging 'module'.  Only 21 months old, though batteries from dealers and in TH in general, do seem to be low quality.

 

Surprised how many needed replacement on past Toyotas & Mazda.  MG ZS ICE (2020) had 2 yrs / 40k kms on it when sold, and battery going strong.   Actually the same battery in the EV version, I think.

Edited by KhunLA
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Replacement LFP batteries are designed so the BMS mimics a flooded lead acid cell.  I saw a 100 Ah one on Lazada for 6,700 baht which will probably do the job if it has the right dimensions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, JBChiangRai said:

Replacement LFP batteries are designed so the BMS mimics a flooded lead acid cell.  I saw a 100 Ah one on Lazada for 6,700 baht which will probably do the job if it has the right dimensions.

They may say they are designed to miminic a 12V lead acid battery but if the charging circuit on an EV is designed for a 12V lead acid type battery (which will be the case if the EV came with a lead acid battery) that charging circuit will charge in the 13.6 to 13.8V ballpark....below the approx 14.4V needed to fully charge a 12V lithium type battery....the lithium battery will end up charging to approx 80% of capacity.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Pib said:

They may say they are designed to miminic a 12V lead acid battery but if the charging circuit on an EV is designed for a 12V lead acid type battery (which will be the case if the EV came with a lead acid battery) that charging circuit will charge in the 13.6 to 13.8V ballpark....below the approx 14.4V needed to fully charge a 12V lithium type battery....the lithium battery will end up charging to approx 80% of capacity.

 

He has a voltage gauge on his car, most lead acid batteries on cars charge at 14.4v for some of the charge cycle.  Perhaps @KhunLA can tell us what voltage he has seen on his ZS?  I recall seeing 14.3v on the MG EP+.

 

In any event, charging to 80% capacity may not necessarily be a bad thing depending on whether active balancer or passive balancer set for a higher voltage.  It could be beneficial.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now









×
×
  • Create New...
""