What to do 2.5 years later. Was it a big mistake..

[Kwaibill]

On 5/19/2022 at 1:16 AM, HauptmannUK said:

Most people worry far too much about having a car standing for a year or two. I can give some advice (based on association with our family car sales and servicing business since I was a youngster) having dealt with cars that have been standing for very long periods...

1. Brakes usually suffer worst. Check/clean corrosion from discs and check slide pins are free and pistons move without sticking. This is the number one problem we encounter.

2. Check tyres for any perishing or cracking. Check the date code - anything up to 7 years is ok. They will be flat-spotted, but inflate to correct pressure and after a few miles of driving they should even out and be OK. 

3. Coolant - just change at manfrs recommended interval. No need to do it before.

4. Brake fluid is mildly hygroscopic. Change every three years.

5. Gear oil change at recommended time/mileage interval - no need to change earlier.

6. You can run and drive the car - then change engine oil and filter when convenient.

7. New battery will be required.

8. Check all rubber belts and gaiters for cracking and vermin attack - but will likely be fine.

9. Check cabin filter for fungal growth - no need to replace if clean.

10. Check A/C operation.

11. Petrol will be stale - refill with fresh ASAP

Cars with leather interiors often suffer mold growth - will need a good clean.

We run an ozone generator or cleaning bomb in the car to freshen it up.

 

You will need to tax, pay back-tax and insure it. No need for low loader.

As a former ASE Master Mechanic, I agree with all of the above.

To "freshen it up" an open  container of ground coffee is amazing, maybe one of sodium bicarbonate as well.

As a side venture we acquired older vehicles and spruced them up for sale. Brakes were often an issue.

 

[Robin]

I had to leave my car in UK for over 1 year, parked in my garage.  On return earlier this year, the only problem was 'stale petrol'  I had left the car with nearly empty tank and modern 'E' type fuels, (all petrol sold in Thailand) will separate out into water and other muck in your tank.

Car started OK but ran badly until some fresh petrol was put in the tank.  Then refilled the tank with fresh petrol (E10)

but the damage had been done.  Old petrol had got into the carburettors (SU) and partly clogged them up. 

It would run, but not properly, so I had to have the carbs. cleaned out.  Now running correctly.

I have now found out that this can be avoided by putting an additive in you last tank of petrol, called 'fuel modifier'  which is also used in UK for petrol powered garden mowers and such that might be left unused for months.

Easy to get in UK, but I do not know about in Thailand.

Only other suggestion would be to fill your tank with fresh fuel before you start up, or if that is not possible, hope that fresh petrol will flush your fuel system clean when you use the car.

Brake discs should clear with use, but you might check that coolant hoses are in good condition.  As for UV light on your tyres, they are normally out in the open so, as long as your tyres are still in date, which you can check from marking on the sidewall, they should be OK

Being unused will not have done the battery any good, but it might have survived.  No point in replacing it if it still works.

In UK, you can buy battery conditioners, sort of battery charger that you can leave connected when you leave your car for a long time, and claim to keep the battery in good condition..

Some people recommend inflating the tyres to a higher pressure when you leave he car for a long time, to avoid flat spots. 

[woodsplinter]

Thanks for all the replies.

 

If the admin keeps this thread open i will report back what needs and gets done to the car and motor bike

and how much it costs.

We will be back in Thailand in 3 weeks time it will obviously be one off the first things that will need to be attended too.

The petrol thing.

 

The motor bike i have had for over 5 years now. It Is usually lying unused for 11 months or so. This time its2.5 years.

I wheel it down to the bike shop every time. They oil change and anything else needs done gets done. I get it back the same day.

 

The bike - Its got this annoying fault on it .

From cold start it takes many attempts to start.

once the engine is warm it starts right away.

Every morning is the same -very hard to start .The rest off the day no problem.

Its a Yamaha 135cc the last off the carb model --Not fuel injection.

 

This fault has never been looked at and wondered then if it could be a petrol --carb fault 

This time i will definitely get this looked into.

The plug gets changed every year as well.

The mileage is not 12k yet.

How due you clean a carb out-- Never done???

 

As for the car ---Somebody has motioned Rats-- I hope not.

 

We have had a wiring problem in the house once when the outside lights wiring was eaten  by rats

 

Wife says it was the banana tree next door with the fronds hitting our roof . The coconut rats are running down the leaves onto our roof and into the loft.

I have seen rats a couple off times scurrying about.

 

We have had an aircon PCB board blown up buy Geckos and the motor for the electric gate which i disconnected for a year -on reconnection the motor stated to smoke. These was a big pile off red ants init. Miraculously the armature got rewired and refitted-Still working -i think 1200 baht. Happy with that price.

 

On returning i wonder what will blow up this year.   

 

Used to use Redex additive in the uk.

Must be an equivalent in Thailand.

 

Anybody no what they use in Thailand for a petrol additive- That would be helpfull and where to buy???

[Pooreye]

Thats something to bring to thailand, a few bottles of fuel stabilizer. 
Different brands different names, but small 2-3 dl bottles, I think most boat shops stocks them. 
I mix 2 dl two-stroke oil, 2 dl ATF, 2 dl fuel stab to 50 liters of petrol for my old cars, just last week I woke one up from 6 years sleep no problems! 
Filled with E5 petrol 6 years ago. But normal petrol in thailand is E10, so gets stale quicker. Or even worse the E20, if filled with that 20% ethanol blend that would pose problems for sure

[transam]

Just fill up with Shell V-Power, it has all the additives you will ever need....????

[Pooreye]

32 minutes ago, transam said:

Just fill up with Shell V-Power, it has all the additives you will ever need....????

Sad thing is in my home country they dilute it too, shell state it could be ”up to 5% ethanol” ????

[HauptmannUK]

I think 'fuel stabalizer' is available in Thailand - try Lazada.

E10 and E20 goes stale pretty quick. Think 3-6 months - and hotter weather means quicker. Carboxylic acid is one of the oxidation products and that attacks rubber, plastic and aluminium.

Old petrol looks kind of tawny coloured and smells unpleasant.

Fuel stabilizer will extend the life somewhat - up to one year with straight petrol. With E20 I've no idea - E20 seems pretty foul stuff.

Ideal drain old petrol and refill - but easier said than done for most people.

[The Hammer2021]

On 5/19/2022 at 1:16 AM, HauptmannUK said:

Most people worry far too much about having a car standing for a year or two. I can give some advice (based on association with our family car sales and servicing business since I was a youngster) having dealt with cars that have been standing for very long periods...

1. Brakes usually suffer worst. Check/clean corrosion from discs and check slide pins are free and pistons move without sticking. This is the number one problem we encounter.

2. Check tyres for any perishing or cracking. Check the date code - anything up to 7 years is ok. They will be flat-spotted, but inflate to correct pressure and after a few miles of driving they should even out and be OK. 

3. Coolant - just change at manfrs recommended interval. No need to do it before.

4. Brake fluid is mildly hygroscopic. Change every three years.

5. Gear oil change at recommended time/mileage interval - no need to change earlier.

6. You can run and drive the car - then change engine oil and filter when convenient.

7. New battery will be required.

8. Check all rubber belts and gaiters for cracking and vermin attack - but will likely be fine.

9. Check cabin filter for fungal growth - no need to replace if clean.

10. Check A/C operation.

11. Petrol will be stale - refill with fresh ASAP

Cars with leather interiors often suffer mold growth - will need a good clean.

We run an ozone generator or cleaning bomb in the car to freshen it up.

 

You will need to tax, pay back-tax and insure it. No need for low loader.

Does your advice apply to a Thai  climate

[woodsplinter]

The petrol in the Yamaha scooter has been in the tank and fuel lines now for nearly 2.5 years untouched. The bike and tank has not even been shaken - let alone stirred. 

 

What you guys are saying about the petrol in the gas tank means it must be rotten.

 

I will be back in about 3 weeks and i will get this bike wheeled or pushed down to the motor bike shop.

I will take some photos and post again with the remedies once the guys in the motorbike shop have it for for service and repair.

I take it the carb will be bunged up as well.

 

Thanks guys -Now i know what to expect and do to get this fixed and running again. 

 

Thks.

 

 

[HauptmannUK]

5 hours ago, The Hammer2021 said:

Does your advice apply to a Thai  climate

For the most part, yes.  The Thai climate seems to be relatively benign as far as mechanical components go. Certainly as compared to North European climate. I think the main thing is that the vehicle is kept out of the sun.

[woodsplinter]

Yes --Not a lot off rust on vehicles in Thailand..

No salt used on the roads and wet and damp all off the time to cause underbody rust.

Seen some photos of the underside off a Ford Ranger Here in the UK

The vehicle was new (apart from Storage)Only a few months old.

Absolutely shocking. Everything was starting to rust.

 

This was in a rustproofing business in Scotland that specialized in Vehicle rustproofing and preservation.

The before and after pictures was the difference between night and day.

Absolutely shocking for a new vehicle .

Have a look under  your truck in Thailand. Has it got sealant and stone chip protection ??

I bet its not..

 

It puts me right off  that and also manufactures that just paint the crossmembers and under bonnet in grey primer .

No paint .Cheapskates. Nissan does for one .Look inside the engine bay off a nissan in Thailand and you will see what i mean. 

IT does not matter if you buy the car new and keep it for a few years. But it matters to me.

I have seen the damage rust does to vehicles and its programmed in that cars will fail the MOT test due to corrosion.

 

 

 

Google --Nissan Navara Chassis problems-- It was kept quiet. There was a field full off them in Scotland stored for scrap.

I will not say to much so look it up. The chassis were build it Spain  and Snapping in Half .Scandalous.-No rustproofing. Just black paint.

 

The UV here must due a lot off damage but i think Thai people or most off them keep their cars and trucks clean well polished up and cared for.

Maybe not so much on the mechanical side but certainly more so on the good looking side compared to Europe.

There are some immaculate mint examples running around.

Good to see.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[transam]

7 minutes ago, woodsplinter said:

Yes --Not a lot off rust on vehicles in Thailand..

No salt used on the roads and wet and damp all off the time to cause underbody rust.

Seen some photos of the underside off a Ford Ranger Here in the UK

The vehicle was new (apart from Storage)Only a few months old.

Absolutely shocking. Everything was starting to rust.

 

This was in a rustproofing business in Scotland that specialized in Vehicle rustproofing and preservation.

The before and after pictures was the difference between night and day.

Absolutely shocking for a new vehicle .

Have a look under  your truck in Thailand. Has it got sealant and stone chip protection ??

I bet its not..

 

It puts me right off  that and also manufactures that just paint the crossmembers and under bonnet in grey primer .

No paint .Cheapskates. Nissan does for one .Look inside the engine bay off a nissan in Thailand and you will see what i mean. 

IT does not matter if you buy the car new and keep it for a few years. But it matters to me.

I have seen the damage rust does to vehicles and its programmed in that cars will fail the MOT test due to corrosion.

 

 

 

Google --Nissan Navara Chassis problems-- It was kept quiet. There was a field full off them in Scotland stored for scrap.

I will not say to much so look it up. The chassis were build it Spain  and Snapping in Half .Scandalous.-No rustproofing. Just black paint.

 

The UV here must due a lot off damage but i think Thai people or most off them keep their cars and trucks clean well polished up and cared for.

Maybe not so much on the mechanical side but certainly more so on the good looking side compared to Europe.

There are some immaculate mint examples running around.

Good to see.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sold my 4x4 Vigo auto in LOS when it was 11.5 years old, not a spot of rust when I sold it, underside no problems either.

I always had a look when up on the hoist for oil change at B-Quik, though l do not live near the sea, it only saw fresh water....????

[pedro01]

call Ford - get them to send a flatbed, check it over and send it back.

[EVENKEEL]

My car sat in a garage in USA for 2 yrs. untouched, due to covid. I slapped in a new battery, changed oil. Good to go.