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[UWEB]

10 hours ago, Bandersnatch said:

BYD Battery optimization

 

https://bydautomotive.com.au/brochures/BYD-SEAL-Owners-Handbook-2023.pdf

 

Charging to 100% at least once a week is no problem for me having solar, but getting to less than 10% takes a bit more planning. I had a long trip yesterday and then used the car to power the house over night. For good measure we took the seal out in the morning for an Amazon Coffee.

 

I plan to fast charge it to 80% this morning then do the final 20% on AC at home 

 

What do other people do?

 

 

If I charged it all at home I couldn’t do it all from solar in one day

 

Start charging as soon I'm out of Bed at 6.00 am with max Load from the ABB Charger, what is 7.5 kwh as per ABB App and 6.4 kwh as per BYD App. At first using my House Batteries and PEA Grid, but around 8.00 am my Solar produces enough to charge the Car and House Batteries again. Keep on charging till Car is fully charged.

[Bandersnatch]

2 hours ago, UWEB said:

Start charging as soon I'm out of Bed at 6.00 am with max Load from the ABB Charger, what is 7.5 kwh as per ABB App and 6.4 kwh as per BYD App. At first using my House Batteries and PEA Grid, but around 8.00 am my Solar produces enough to charge the Car and House Batteries again. Keep on charging till Car is fully charged.

 

That's what I ended up doing - more or less.

 

Because I powered the house from the Seal last night, my home solar batteries were pretty full this morning and I used them and a bit of solar to charge the car up initially, we don't have PEA. As the sun came up I was using less and from the home batteries until Solar was able to charge both the EV and the house batteries.

 

We left the Seal charging and used our other EV to run some errands during the day.

 

We should finish charging the Seal back to 100% tomorrow.

[mistral53]

On 10/25/2024 at 8:53 AM, Bandersnatch said:

 

I plan to fast charge it to 80% this morning then do the final 20% on AC at home 

 

That is not the way it will work for the intended purpose - for the BMS to calculate the battery capacity properly and plot the depletion curve, it must be done according to the manual. What you intend to do is just another charge from 80 to 100 %.

 

What the top 20% slow charge is good for is for balancing the cells - so not a total loss.

[JBChiangRai]

6 minutes ago, mistral53 said:

 

That is not the way it will work for the intended purpose - for the BMS to calculate the battery capacity properly and plot the depletion curve, it must be done according to the manual. What you intend to do is just another charge from 80 to 100 %.

 

What the top 20% slow charge is good for is for balancing the cells - so not a total loss.

I don’t believe BYD balances the cells only at high SoC, I think it has active balancing and balances the cells at any state of charge continuously, probably even when the car is off.

 

The only cars I know that use passive balancing at the end of the charge period are MG.

[JBChiangRai]

Between approximately 50% and 80% a lithium iron cell has almost a flat voltage, so it’s very difficult for the BMS to tell what the state of charge is in that range, the purpose of taking it up to 100% is to record that significant 100% voltage peak and know that the batteries fully charged so it can recalculate the SoC.

 

I think the purpose of taking it below 10% is for it to be able to calculate the capacity of the battery pack, which probably happens as you recharge it, it counts the coulombs going into the pack and knows the capacity and state of health.

[mistral53]

37 minutes ago, JBChiangRai said:

Between approximately 50% and 80% a lithium iron cell has almost a flat voltage, so it’s very difficult for the BMS to tell what the state of charge is in that range, the purpose of taking it up to 100% is to record that significant 100% voltage peak and know that the batteries fully charged so it can recalculate the SoC.

 

I think the purpose of taking it below 10% is for it to be able to calculate the capacity of the battery pack, which probably happens as you recharge it, it counts the coulombs going into the pack and knows the capacity and state of health.

 

My engineering degree is not in LFP battery chemistry and blade battery design, so I have no idea.

 

I have however observed discussions occasionally about significant differences of range - most of which is most likely a function of the driving style. However, the question that was often also raised was about the full-charge cycle <10 to 100%, and those owners that had comparatively low range cars, admitted to have never done a full-charge cycle......go figure.

[Bandersnatch]

1 hour ago, mistral53 said:

 

That is not the way it will work for the intended purpose - for the BMS to calculate the battery capacity properly and plot the depletion curve, it must be done according to the manual. What you intend to do is just another charge from 80 to 100 %.

 

What the top 20% slow charge is good for is for balancing the cells - so not a total loss.

 

The manual says to fully charge it from <10% I wasn't sure if that had to be in one session or could be split over a few days. Hence my post with a question asking what others were doing.

 

I haven't used fast charging since the first week of ownership and then only a few kWh for test purposes. 

 

I explained in detail what I actually did in my reply to UWEB above.

 

 

[JBChiangRai]

If you don’t charge to 100% regularly the SoC displayed will get increasingly less accurate as the BMS attempts to calculate based on power in and out and it will drift in one direction.

 

The battery voltage vs SoC curve gets very steep above 90’something% and below 10%.  I think the purpose of BYD’s instructions is to recalibrate the BMS.  It’s not to prolong the life of the battery.
 

The worst behavior for battery longevity is to keep it charged close to 100%, ie what some people call ABC, always be charging. I used to do that until I watched the EE video.