Bicycle sought to suit my stature

[ericbj]

My current bicycle, a decent one purchased late last year, is not well suited to my long legs.  With the seat raised to a height where I can barely touch the ground with my toes, my knees are still partially bent when the pedals are at bottom; even with the pedals against the heels of my shoes.  So pedalling is more exhausting than otherwise might be the case.

 

[At my age I am disinclined to stand on the pedals in the manner commonly illustrated in manufacturers' publicity]

 

Moreover, since the manufacturer has placed the pedals unusually low AND the front of my feet project well beyond the pedals, this can result in my shoes scraping the road surface when negotiating a right-angle turn.

 

Consequently, caution is needed when turning sharply at traffic-lights, accelerating ahead of heavy traffic.

 

What is maybe needed is an XXL-sized frame, with pedals located further forward relative to the seat.  This I was unable to find in Chiang Mai when looking for a new bicycle; and so purchased one with an XL frame.

 

My height is 6'2" or 187 cm.

 

I also sought, but did not find, a model where the top-bar, instead of being horizontal, slopes downward from the front-post to the seat-post.

 

When carrying bulky shopping on the rear luggage-rack (as well as in the side-panniers) mounting and dismounting often requires some acrobatics: lifting a foot over the top-bar while balancing on the other leg.  It can be impossible to swing a leg over the seat from the rear.

 

Advice from knowledgeable cyclists, with information of any potentially useful retail outlets in Bangkok (where I am currently visiting), would be welcome.

[Ralf001]

[KhunLA]

Why not swap out the 'seat bat' for a longer one, (custom made if necessary) that allows you to sit higher.  If you like the rest of the bike.

[ericbj]

4 hours ago, KhunLA said:

Why not swap out the 'seat bat' for a longer one, (custom made if necessary) that allows you to sit higher.  If you like the rest of the bike.

 

I think you mean by a longer "seat bat" that one would be able to sit further back, thus lengthening the distance to the pedals ?

 

Unfortunately the saddle cannot go further back because on the luggage-rack is fixed a typical supermarket-type plastic shopping-basket.  The latter is indispensable for carrying part of my weekly shopping plus a small back-pack [containing such things as raincoat, cords, bungees, mini-pump, spare inner-tube].  And on occasion the shopping-basket is piled high with purchases.

 

Sitting higher and being unable to touch the ground would mean there is a strong possibility of falling over and being pinned to the ground.  It has happened in the past.

 

I endeavour to balance the load in the large pannier-bags on either side when returning from town fully laden.  But, once the bicycle is leaning well over, holding it requires quite an effort.

 

Perhaps a potential answer, if I could find the time and still possess the skills, would be to design and make a sheet-steel-framed 4 mm thick plywood box such as I fabricated for my moped 40 years ago.  It was amazingly lightweight, very strong, and durable.

 

Had to make my own angle-iron out of 1 mm sheet steel; and brazed the lap-joints.  The plywood was force-fitted to the frame for rigidity.

 

[ericbj]

4 hours ago, KhunLA said:

 

 

 

 

Perhaps a potential answer, if I could find the time and still possess the skills, would be to design and make a sheet-steel-framed 4 mm thick plywood box such as I fabricated for my moped 40 years ago.  It was amazingly lightweight, very strong, and durable.

 

Had to make my own angle-iron out of 1 mm sheet steel; and brazed the lap-joints.  The plywood was force-fitted to the frame for rigidity.

 

[NoDisplayName]

6 hours ago, ericbj said:

my knees are still partially bent when the pedals are at bottom;

 

That's correct.  Your knees should be slightly bent at the bottom of the stroke, otherwise you risk knee injury.

 

6 hours ago, ericbj said:

has placed the pedals unusually low AND the front of my feet project well beyond the pedals, this can result in my shoes scraping the road surface when negotiating a right-angle turn

 

Your feet are probably too far forward on the pedals.  You could try SPD type clip-on shoes that hold your feet on the correct spot over the pedal spindle.  You could also go with old-fangled cages/straps to keep your feet correctly positioned, as long as you don't tighten the straps too much.

 

14 minutes ago, ericbj said:

the saddle cannot go further back because on the luggage-rack is fixed a typical supermarket-type plastic shopping-basket. 

 

Have you considered a bicycle cargo trailer?  Attaches to the rear axle or chainstay or seatpost.  Weighs about 15 pounds, can carry 60-70 pounds. 

 

6 hours ago, ericbj said:

current bicycle, a decent one purchased late last year, is not well suited to my long legs.

 

Can you provide details?  Make and model, frame size, wheel size?

[NoDisplayName]

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/bicycle-cargo-trailer-h-004-i4864398716.html

 

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/cargo-trailer-cxwxc-i4104327386.html

[ericbj]

43 minutes ago, NoDisplayName said:

 

That's correct.  Your knees should be slightly bent at the bottom of the stroke, otherwise you risk knee injury.

 

 

Your feet are probably too far forward on the pedals.  You could try SPD type clip-on shoes that hold your feet on the correct spot over the pedal spindle.  You could also go with old-fangled cages/straps to keep your feet correctly positioned, as long as you don't tighten the straps too much.

 

 

Have you considered a bicycle cargo trailer?  Attaches to the rear axle or chainstay or seatpost.  Weighs about 15 pounds, can carry 60-70 pounds. 

 

 

Can you provide details?  Make and model, frame size, wheel size?

Many thanks for your suggestions.

 

Had long thought of a trailer, but having never seen one, thought I would have to make it myself.  Even purchased two 20" wheels for one, some years ago.

 

I purchased a trailer for my moped in France 40 years ago; could bring home a bag of cement or lime.  50 kg in those far-off days when men were men :-).  Needed pedal-assistance to get up the steep slopes from the valley of the Dordogne.

 

I had to reflect a bit to recall the Taiwanese Merida model, but here it is:

 

https://roadbikedatabase.com/bikes/2021/merida/speeder/2021-merida-speeder-300/

 

Thank goodness I never paid anything like the price quoted here in GBP.  Purchased in Chiang Mai for about 17K baht, not including extras such as luggage rack, panniers, lights, bell, parking-prop.  Also had slightly wider than standard tyres fitted free, because of the loads it must carry.

 

Merida seems a decent make.  My old bicycle, purchased March 2011, was a mountain-bike from their stables.  Rather heavy, but the pedals were a decent height from the ground.  Am hoping to get it re-built and then lend it to the niece of a Karen friend.

 

[ericbj]

37 minutes ago, NoDisplayName said:

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/bicycle-cargo-trailer-h-004-i4864398716.html

 

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/cargo-trailer-cxwxc-i4104327386.html

 

Thank you.  Most interesting !

[NoDisplayName]

Wrong bike for the job.  That's a street racer for fast training rides, not a touring bike, not a mountain bike, not a hybrid, not a commuter.

 

Chain stays look too short, meaning the rear rack is pulled forward against the seatpost, meaning your heels will be hitting the saddlebags, which is why your feet stick out so far forwards.

 

28 spokes reduces weight for racing, but lowers the wheel strength.  You don't want to carry too much extra baggage or risk spoke breakage.

 

Specs don't show the cassette range, but the two front chain rings (50-34) are not suitable for carrying loads.

 

If i were you, and didn't want to get to pull a trailer, I'd get your mountain bike refurbished use that as your commuter/grocery-getter.

 

Some people think a trailer is dangerous in traffic, so depends on your circumstances.  I pulled a BOB trailer (single wheel type) fully loaded across the US and the perimeter of Australia.  No problems on flat land.

 

You can increase the efficiency and lower weight by replacing your MTB mud tires with some thinner tires with a road tread.

 

Something like Kenda 935.  You should be fine with 26x1.75

 

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/kenda-26-195-275-29-i2887829374.html

 

 

 

Edited September 19 by NoDisplayName

[StreetCowboy]

Back in the day, I shared your view on bike sizing and saddle height.  But my view has changed in the last 40 years.

 

You should not be able to easily touch the ground with both feet when seated.  You should alight from the saddle when coming to a halt. 

 

When cornering, depending on the sharpness of the corner, you should stop pedalling, and corner with the outside pedal down and carrying most of your weight.  You could drag your inside foot on the ground, and pretend you're Valentino Rossi, but he doesn't do that.

If the seat post maximum extension limit is more than an inch from the seat-post clamp when you are comfortable on the bike, then the frame is probably too small for you.

 

SC 

[Chomper Higgot]

8 hours ago, ericbj said:

My current bicycle, a decent one purchased late last year, is not well suited to my long legs.  With the seat raised to a height where I can barely touch the ground with my toes, my knees are still partially bent when the pedals are at bottom; even with the pedals against the heels of my shoes.  So pedalling is more exhausting than otherwise might be the case.

 

[At my age I am disinclined to stand on the pedals in the manner commonly illustrated in manufacturers' publicity]

 

Moreover, since the manufacturer has placed the pedals unusually low AND the front of my feet project well beyond the pedals, this can result in my shoes scraping the road surface when negotiating a right-angle turn.

 

Consequently, caution is needed when turning sharply at traffic-lights, accelerating ahead of heavy traffic.

 

What is maybe needed is an XXL-sized frame, with pedals located further forward relative to the seat.  This I was unable to find in Chiang Mai when looking for a new bicycle; and so purchased one with an XL frame.

 

My height is 6'2" or 187 cm.

 

I also sought, but did not find, a model where the top-bar, instead of being horizontal, slopes downward from the front-post to the seat-post.

 

When carrying bulky shopping on the rear luggage-rack (as well as in the side-panniers) mounting and dismounting often requires some acrobatics: lifting a foot over the top-bar while balancing on the other leg.  It can be impossible to swing a leg over the seat from the rear.

 

Advice from knowledgeable cyclists, with information of any potentially useful retail outlets in Bangkok (where I am currently visiting), would be welcome.

Clearly your bike frame is far too small for you, see attached sizing guide from cannondale:

it’s difficult to advise outlets without knowing your bike type and budget, but I would start with Central Bike

 

https://www.bikeexchange.com/en-US/guide/sizing-guide

 

https://centralbike.co.th

[ericbj]

1 hour ago, NoDisplayName said:

Wrong bike for the job.  That's a street racer for fast training rides, not a touring bike, not a mountain bike, not a hybrid, not a commuter.

 

Chain stays look too short, meaning the rear rack is pulled forward against the seatpost, meaning your heels will be hitting the saddlebags, which is why your feet stick out so far forwards.

 

28 spokes reduces weight for racing, but lowers the wheel strength.  You don't want to carry too much extra baggage or risk spoke breakage.

 

Specs don't show the cassette range, but the two front chain rings (50-34) are not suitable for carrying loads.

 

If i were you, and didn't want to get to pull a trailer, I'd get your mountain bike refurbished use that as your commuter/grocery-getter.

 

Some people think a trailer is dangerous in traffic, so depends on your circumstances.  I pulled a BOB trailer (single wheel type) fully loaded across the US and the perimeter of Australia.  No problems on flat land.

 

You can increase the efficiency and lower weight by replacing your MTB mud tires with some thinner tires with a road tread.

 

Something like Kenda 935.  You should be fine with 26x1.75

 

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/kenda-26-195-275-29-i2887829374.html

 

 

 

 

Thanks.  Very useful info.  Shall give it thought.

 

I must say that the idea of towing a trailer in Thailand somewhat concerns me.  Some drivers of cars, trucks, and even motor-cycles here seem oblivious to the existence of bicycles and zoom past within centimetres.  I could tell some horror stories of near-misses, even on broad multi-lane highways; caused, I presume, by sheer negligence.

 

In France the law requires a motorist to allow a gap of one metre when passing a cyclist.  Which tends to be fairly well observed, since the French of all classes tend to favour cycling as a pastime.  And a German neighbour tells me that in his country of origin the margin of safety is such that a cyclist who falls over will not be struck by a motorized vehicle that is passing by.

[NoDisplayName]

23 minutes ago, ericbj said:

I must say that the idea of towing a trailer in Thailand somewhat concerns me.

 

Would depend on your specific area and where or how far you ride.  Not on a highway or dense city traffic, for sure.

 

MTB should have longer chainstays than your racer.  Rear axle will be further back, rack will sit further back, heels less likely to hit the saddlebags.

 

You could also look at a different style rear rack, something adjustable that sits further back.  It's also possible to fashion extension pieces that bolt onto the lower mounting bolts that move the rack up and back.

 

 

Edited September 19 by NoDisplayName

[ericbj]

54 minutes ago, StreetCowboy said:

Back in the day, I shared your view on bike sizing and saddle height.  But my view has changed in the last 40 years.

 

You should not be able to easily touch the ground with both feet when seated.  You should alight from the saddle when coming to a halt. 

 

When cornering, depending on the sharpness of the corner, you should stop pedalling, and corner with the outside pedal down and carrying most of your weight.  You could drag your inside foot on the ground, and pretend you're Valentino Rossi, but he doesn't do that.

If the seat post maximum extension limit is more than an inch from the seat-post clamp when you are comfortable on the bike, then the frame is probably too small for you.

 

SC 

 

Thank you.  Your views are appreciated.

 

I have in fact learnt to do as you suggest, by keeping in the up-position the pedal on the side to which I am turning.  But this means I must stop pedalling for a while at a moment when I am trying to gain maximum speed to pull well ahead of motorised traffic at traffic lights that have just turned green.

 

If the pedal itself hit the deck, in view of the traffic behind that could spell my demise.

 

I also sweep in as wide as possible a turn in order not to lean over more than necessary.

 

This problem did not exist with the older bicycle, owing to its pedals being higher.

 

The bicycle is not with me at the moment, but definitely I have had to fix the saddle much more than you suggest above the saddle-post.  I looked everywhere for an XXL-frame in Chiang Mai but the largest available were XLs.  So in the end that is what I bought.

Edited September 19 by ericbj

[ericbj]

15 minutes ago, NoDisplayName said:

 

Would depend on your specific area and where or how far you ride.  Not on a highway or dense city traffic, for sure.

 

MTB should have longer chainstays than your racer.  Rear axle will be further back, rack will sit further back, heels less likely to hit the saddlebags.

 

You could also look at a different style rear rack, something adjustable that sits further back.  It's also possible to fashion extension pieces that bolt onto the lower mounting bolts that move the rack up and back.

 

 

 

Thank you.  Food for thought !