Day-to-day life in Myanmar

[Tomtomtom69]

1 hour ago, Burma Bill said:

 

I totally agree. 

Those Russians could possibly have been business men (as quoted), diplomats or even military advisers in "civvies". 

Russia and China supply military equipment to the Burmese military (Tatmadaw), for example fighter jets which kill and injure many thousands of innocent civilians. 

 

I suppose that could be, just that Myanmar was never really a country westerners traveled to on business very much and I know that technically, Russians aren't westerners, though they do look like us. 

 

I'm going with diplomats - that's who they probably were. 

[Mahseer]

Sorry Simon last one. Anyone who visits Yangon and skips downtown really is missing out. 

[simon43]

Great photos BB!

 

[quote]

     Are you a dive instructor?

No.

[/quote]

 

My guess is that you're working in the oil sector

 

[quote]

I'm surprised you've even decided to live in Myanmar given the circumstances

[/quote]

 

I had been visiting Kawtaung (at the southern tip of Myanmar) on many occasions since about 2002, to do visa runs.  In 2012, and with a completely mad ex-wife making my life a misery, I 'fled' to the safety of Yangon, knowing that the mad bat would not follow me there! I moved 'sideways' in my career from my original space/satellite scientist in the UK, to small hotel builder (in Thailand), and finally to school teacher in Myanmar.  I fell in love with the country and its people, but I have never gained a liking for most Burmese food, since it has too much grease/oil and animal genitalia....  Shan noodles is my favorite Myanmar dish.

 

 

I lived in the brown-shuttered apartment in this photo in downtown Yangon. At any time of the day or night, I have never felt threatened in either Myanmar, Laos and Thailand, not in 22+ years. I attribute this to my belief that no-one will bother/mug/hassle you if you either look poor or look mad!  As I tend to combine both attributes, those with ill-intent leave me alone...

 

The first time that I expressed interest in visiting Dala (across the river), the local Burmese warned me that it was dangerous to go there.  I went and ended up teaching English for free on my day off from my paid teaching job.  Needless to say, I never found it dangerous 🙂

 

 

As to the 2 tourists who ignored me at the moat, perhaps it was my mad staring eyes and maniacal laugh as I said "Well hallooooo!!!" that put them off 🙂

[NewGuy]

Thinking about foreigners going to southern islands. Total had quite the off shore oil-gas operation years back until they we shamed out 2002+/-. I vaguely remember a Pattaya guy who had a on-off shore contract, but that was a long time ago. I doubt that the powers that be would let those assets rest too long.

[Tomtomtom69]

1 hour ago, simon43 said:

Great photos BB!

 

[quote]

     Are you a dive instructor?

No.

[/quote]

 

My guess is that you're working in the oil sector

 

[quote]

I'm surprised you've even decided to live in Myanmar given the circumstances

[/quote]

 

I had been visiting Kawtaung (at the southern tip of Myanmar) on many occasions since about 2002, to do visa runs.  In 2012, and with a completely mad ex-wife making my life a misery, I 'fled' to the safety of Yangon, knowing that the mad bat would not follow me there! I moved 'sideways' in my career from my original space/satellite scientist in the UK, to small hotel builder (in Thailand), and finally to school teacher in Myanmar.  I fell in love with the country and its people, but I have never gained a liking for most Burmese food, since it has too much grease/oil and animal genitalia....  Shan noodles is my favorite Myanmar dish.

 

 

I lived in the brown-shuttered apartment in this photo in downtown Yangon. At any time of the day or night, I have never felt threatened in either Myanmar, Laos and Thailand, not in 22+ years. I attribute this to my belief that no-one will bother/mug/hassle you if you either look poor or look mad!  As I tend to combine both attributes, those with ill-intent leave me alone...

 

The first time that I expressed interest in visiting Dala (across the river), the local Burmese warned me that it was dangerous to go there.  I went and ended up teaching English for free on my day off from my paid teaching job.  Needless to say, I never found it dangerous 🙂

 

 

As to the 2 tourists who ignored me at the moat, perhaps it was my mad staring eyes and maniacal laugh as I said "Well hallooooo!!!" that put them off 🙂

 

Oil sector? Well, until that guy answers us, it will remain a mystery, but I've not heard of westerners working in the oil & gas industry in Myanmar (well, not since Total pulled out anyway) and since he mentioned some unknown island, I'm going to guess, he's working in tourism (hotel or restaurant) or teaching, probably the former. 

 

I never really took a liking for Burmese food either; it's definitely not going to win any culinary awards.

 

That stated, I can always find something I like and unlike Myanmar Beer, I don't find it challenging to eat Burmese food, but when other choices are available, I usually choose those.

 

Thankfully, Thai food is found everywhere in Myanmar, even in the smallest, most rural hamlets. International cuisine dished up by hotels and restaurants in Yangon, whether it be Thai, Indian, western or Japanese or even fusion, tends to be quite good. 

 

As for safety - well...you're mostly correct if you do what you say, but there's always a small chance of becoming the victim of a crime, no matter how many precautions you take. The security situation in Myanmar has deteriorated since the coup and westerners make easy pickings for those who are desperate. That of course doesn't mean you're likely to be robbed, just that you are more likely to be a target compared to the locals. 

 

I've rarely felt unsafe in Thailand/Laos/Myanmar/Cambodia/Vietnam etc. BUT I ensure I don't do silly things or go places I shouldn't be. I'd feel very unsafe in Shwe Kokko so of course I don't go there (foreigners aren't even allowed to visit). Laukkai, Muse, Mongla etc are similar; Laukkai and Mongla are particularly dangerous. 

 

The Golden Triangle SEZ in Laos is open to foreigners, but a bit dodgy. OK to walk through during the day, but not really somewhere a westerner should find themselves in, especially at night. The market they take you to on a day trip by boat from the Thai side - perfectly safe though. 

 

I wouldn't visit a Thai bar in a rural area, nor attend a cockfight as a westerner, where drunk Thai men with guns, knives, sticks and short tempers are in abundance. That's just asking for trouble. Similarly, dodgy KTV places in Laos or Cambodia aren't venues that westerners should visit. That's where you'll find trouble. 

 

Anyway, it's good to see you're happy where you are. I'm about to visit Yangon again in the near future. Looking forward to seeing what it's like now, post-Covid and post-coup. Kawthaung and that southernmost area felt largely the same as it did pre-Covid when I visited in 2023 and 2024. 

[simon43]

[quote]

As for safety - well...you're mostly correct if you do what you say, but there's always a small chance of becoming the victim of a crime, no matter how many precautions you take. The security situation in Myanmar has deteriorated since the coup and westerners make easy pickings for those who are desperate. That of course doesn't mean you're likely to be robbed, just that you are more likely to be a target compared to the locals. 

[/quote]

 

2 of the foreign teachers at my school had their bags/mobile phones stolen by passing motorbike riders in broad daylight.  I always have my backpack straps over both shoulders.  Still, if you're in the wrong place at the wrong time etc...

[soi3eddie]

15 hours ago, Tomtomtom69 said:

I became friends with the owner of a hotel in Dawei who thanks to Covid and then the coup, was forced to sell his dream hotel. His second beach hotel also never became a reality due to years of bureaucracy, an anti-foreigner bias, which meant it took years to receive the necessary permits to build his hotel and in the end, that project was shelved too. 

 

My GF, mother and I, stayed at Mandolis with Nawar in February 2020. Such a lovely gentleman and vision he had. A real shame that it all came to nothing and he left.

 

[Lostinthought]

I have enjoyed reading this thread and decided to contribute. 

 

Myanmar has always had a theft issue. When I traveled here 20 years ago Mandalay was well know to have bags snatched from tourists. I even had my bag robbed of money that I left at a hotel while I ventured up into the hills beyond Mandalay since it was so cheap to keep a room at a hotel and just take a day bag for a few days. 

 

The current situation in Yangon is relatively fine on the surface. Mandalay not so much as the fighting gets nearer. When I was there this summer I could not visit places outside the city due to fighting. And we have a number of students just at our school from Mandalay here in Yangon - to get away from the situation there. 

 

To illustrate how unsafe it is at night - in Thanlyin as you come across the bridge from Yangon, there is a nice housing development on the left opposite Starcity. It is empty. The homes are nicer than the ones in Starcity. Why? So much theft. The developer upon selling did not care anymore and many from this estate bought homes in Starcity across the road to get away from the thefts. These homes sit empty and no one will buy them. 

 

During the day it's fine, as I go for long walks on the weekends into every neighborhood - but after dark it is not safe to venture out. If you are going to a bar or restaurant and taxi it back then you are okay. But, as I read the papers every morning, there is a lot of petty and violent crime for small amounts and large amounts. Lots of killings over small amounts of money - a girl and brother at bus stop killed for a few dollars worth, a taxi driver killed for his money, jewelry store robbed and owners killed, etc. 

 

The Russians could be teachers - there are many from the former Soviet nations teaching here for a major school with branches in Yangon and Mandalay - often subject teachers in science and math. 

 

There are many utterly useless teachers here with many on fake (no) degrees who make the rounds after getting fired from one school - such is the desperation of schools to find teachers so if you are a reasonably professional teacher you could do well here. The conditions here are actually not bad compared to many Asian nations. 

 

I retired from a professional background and having traveled for many years was tired of moving around and decided to find someplace to settle. I see a lot of potential here when things get better - and they will relative to what is/will happen(ing) in the near future. Although the costs keep rising relatively it is still cheaper than other places. I spend freely and only spend about 300 per month. It is not easy to spend money here as there is really nothing to do except go out to eat and walking around. I enjoy both. 

 

Simon, your champ with what you are doing for the kids. 

 

Cheers

[scotty1286]

On 1/6/2025 at 11:21 AM, Tomtomtom69 said:

 

Well, if you're "working on an island" in Myanmar, there can't be very many possibilities. Either you're a dive instructor (which you've confirmed, you are not), an English teacher or involved in some sort of resort or restaurant. 

Very, very unusual to hear of westerners doing anything on an island in Myanmar at present given the economic, political circumstances and general restrictions on foreigners.

 

Nope, not working in any of the above fields either.

Plenty of Chinese around here but only 1 other western foreigner that I know of.

[simon43]

12 hours ago, scotty1286 said:

Nope, not working in any of the above fields either.

Plenty of Chinese around here but only 1 other western foreigner that I know of.

 

You are a spy.... 🙂

 

As mentioned in another thread, my posts from Myanmar are 'on hold' for a few months, commencing from yesterday evening.  Why?  Because yesterday evening, the retina in my right eye detached!  The retina tore in this eye some 6 years ago and degraded my vision by about 10%.  So when this event occurred yesterday, I knew how time was of the essence. I was on a plane to Bangkok at 8am this morning, and have had the retina reattached already 🙂

 

However, I have to rest for a while and cannot travel on a plane (the air pressure in the cabin can affect the eye in some way).

 

But I'm going to use my time in a good way 🙂 My UK state pension starts in June, which means that I do not need to teach in-class for a salary (I also have my online teaching income).  So I'm going to spend a couple of months improving my spoken and reading/written Burmese by taking in-person lessons with a nature speaker 🙂

 

This couple of months will also allow the app developer to complete the update on my learning app, and it will then be back on Google Playstore 🙂 In the meantime, I've been creating new videos that follow the lesson-by-lesson Burmese government (the 'real' government) curriculum.

 

 

[scotty1286]

7 hours ago, simon43 said:

 

You are a spy.... 🙂

 

As mentioned in another thread, my posts from Myanmar are 'on hold' for a few months, commencing from yesterday evening.  Why?  Because yesterday evening, the retina in my right eye detached!  The retina tore in this eye some 6 years ago and degraded my vision by about 10%.  So when this event occurred yesterday, I knew how time was of the essence. I was on a plane to Bangkok at 8am this morning, and have had the retina reattached already 🙂

 

However, I have to rest for a while and cannot travel on a plane (the air pressure in the cabin can affect the eye in some way).

 

But I'm going to use my time in a good way 🙂 My UK state pension starts in June, which means that I do not need to teach in-class for a salary (I also have my online teaching income).  So I'm going to spend a couple of months improving my spoken and reading/written Burmese by taking in-person lessons with a nature speaker 🙂

 

This couple of months will also allow the app developer to complete the update on my learning app, and it will then be back on Google Playstore 🙂 In the meantime, I've been creating new videos that follow the lesson-by-lesson Burmese government (the 'real' government) curriculum.

 

 

You were correct with your first guess, although at the check points they seem to think your second guess is correct 🙂

 

Sorry to hear about your eye problem but great that you got it attended to so quickly, wishing you a speedy recovery.

[Burma Bill]

6 hours ago, scotty1286 said:

You were correct with your first guess, although at the check points they seem to think your second guess is correct 🙂

 

Sorry to hear about your eye problem but great that you got it attended to so quickly, wishing you a speedy recovery.

 

Yes indeed Simon, and best wishes from me. Good luck with the Burmese language studies.

[zzzzz]

On 1/8/2025 at 10:34 PM, simon43 said:

 

You are a spy.... 🙂

 

As mentioned in another thread, my posts from Myanmar are 'on hold' for a few months, commencing from yesterday evening.  Why?  Because yesterday evening, the retina in my right eye detached!  The retina tore in this eye some 6 years ago and degraded my vision by about 10%.  So when this event occurred yesterday, I knew how time was of the essence. I was on a plane to Bangkok at 8am this morning, and have had the retina reattached already 🙂

 

However, I have to rest for a while and cannot travel on a plane (the air pressure in the cabin can affect the eye in some way).

 

But I'm going to use my time in a good way 🙂 My UK state pension starts in June, which means that I do not need to teach in-class for a salary (I also have my online teaching income).  So I'm going to spend a couple of months improving my spoken and reading/written Burmese by taking in-person lessons with a nature speaker 🙂

 

This couple of months will also allow the app developer to complete the update on my learning app, and it will then be back on Google Playstore 🙂 In the meantime, I've been creating new videos that follow the lesson-by-lesson Burmese government (the 'real' government) curriculum.

 

 

take care, as u age HEALTH is the #1 priority  🙂

Quote

Thankfully, Thai food is found everywhere in Myanmar, even in the smallest, most rural hamlets.

Have travelled from the far north (Khamti)  to Kwathoung< India border to thai border
Down the Chindwin, Irrawaddy & Salween rivers and did a month long  dive trip exploration in 86 out of Phuket in the Burma banks
First land based trip in 87, last one in 2018
In most places ( figure i've been by Motorcycle, train, plane, boat to over 50 cities) sledom see thai food, ALways see chinese food thou

Dont care for the local food but thank god can always gets noodles wherever you are>

so i guess this thread dies   ;-(
 

[Mahseer]

On 12/27/2024 at 2:58 PM, scotty1286 said:

North, I am working on Ramree island.

Survived I trust?

 

https://www.irrawaddy.com/news/burma/myanmar-junta-airstrike-kills-40-civilians-on-rakhines-ramree-island.html

[scotty1286]

18 minutes ago, Mahseer said:

Survived I trust?

 

https://www.irrawaddy.com/news/burma/myanmar-junta-airstrike-kills-40-civilians-on-rakhines-ramree-island.html

Yeah, it's quite a distance from us, the biggest player in all of this are currently telling both sides to leave the area I'm in alone, but not sure for how much longer.

 

Obviously I can't put too much online.

[Mahseer]

1 hour ago, scotty1286 said:

Yeah, it's quite a distance from us, the biggest player in all of this are currently telling both sides to leave the area I'm in alone, but not sure for how much longer.

 

Obviously I can't put too much online.

Good to hear you are safe.

[zzzzz]

why do u stay?
is the money that great?

[rhodie]

On 1/8/2025 at 10:34 PM, simon43 said:

I was on a plane to Bangkok at 8am this morning, and have had the retina reattached already 🙂

Simon, it would be great to expand on the details, as in hospital, cost and your impression of the procedure do far.

 

Cheers.

[simon43]

[quote]

so i guess this thread dies   ;-(

[/quote]

 

Why?  I have already planned my return trip to Myanmar.  I am resting my eye for the moment by the sea at Jomtien Beach and using this time to improve my spoken/reading Burmese by taking face-to-face lessons from a native Burmese teacher.  It also gives me time to update my Android app content files (the updated version of this app is almost ready for relaunch on the Playstore).

 

@Rhodie, I went to Rutin Hospital in Bangkok, zapped by some laser gun to re-attach the retina.  That eye does not have perfect vision anyway, so any sight remaining in it is a bonus for me.  I don't know the final cost - my insurer handled all that directly.

[rhodie]

3 hours ago, simon43 said:

@Rhodie, I went to Rutin Hospital in Bangkok

Well, hopefully what you have is restored and you don't have to hang around too long. Good luck Simon. Holding thumbs for you.

[simon43]

Although I'm currently in Thailand, and resting my eye, I want to post more in this thread, sort of to keep the momentum going.

 

I'm just waiting to move into my new 'base' studio condo at Jomtien Beach. Since I am only a few months away from drawing my huge (!) UK state pension, I've decided to no longer teach 'in-class' for a monthly salary, but to continue with my online science teaching AND to only teach in-class in Myanmar as part of my volunteer efforts.

 

I move into the condo in a few weeks from now, but I've been sorting out more audio file recordings for my mobile app.  Since there are hundreds (probably thousands) of these files, I'm going to build a small 'sound recording booth' in my condo, with a decent microphone and sound-absorbing wall/ceiling tiles, to provide the clearest sound recordings of my dulcet voice 🙂

 

The mobile app development company in Pakistan sent me their first attempt at updating my existing Android app.  This was very good, with only a few issues, and they are now checking through these software bugs. Once I've tested it all, then it's pay-day for them and my updated app can be back on the Google Playstore 🙂

 

My Myanmar business visa expired 2 days ago.  Since I no longer plan to teach at a school in Myanmar, I can no longer get a business visa.  So I'll have to rely on 28-day tourist visas.  I am pessimistic enough to consider that the junta may - at some time - refuse me entry to the country (they don't really like people helping local teachers to educate local students).  So in my initial tourist visa trips, I will try to recruit a local (anonymous) person who can market my app, print vocabulary posters etc in my absence.

 

Luckily, return plane tickets from Bangkok to Yangon with Air Asia are reasonably cheap, about $110 USD on the cheapest dates.  A Burmese friend in Yangon is sourcing the cheapest hotel/hostel that is licenced for foreigners, so that I can minimise my expenses whilst in Myanmar.

 

Anyway, all my plans are going well 🙂

[simon43]

Just an update:  My updated learning/teaching Android app is almost ready for relaunch on Google Playstore.  This is good news, because downloading the old version from my website causes various pop-up warning messages "Do you really want to download this app?" etc by the Android software, which is rather worrying for end-users!

 

I've been testing the updated app on my phone and I'm very pleased so far.  The app now supports the Burmese character set for my file names, which makes it easier for beginner learners to understand.

 

Once that app is completed, and I've moved into my Jomtien Beach condo 'base', I should be back to Myanmar.  It's likely that I will be in Yangon, because there are warnings that the pdf/civilian fighters may try to cut off the road between Mandalay city and its airport, so not a great idea to return to Mandalay.  2 international schools in Yangon have asked me to join them, so everything is looking 'rosy' 🙂

[simon43]

Whilst waiting for my updated app to be completed. (It is actually available for download and testing - comments appreciated!) from my website by scanning this QR code), I decided on a novel idea for spreading the word about this useful app.

 

I got a local print shop to print my 'owl' logo and URL on the left breast of the white t-shirt, and the download QR code on the back.  There's no identifying text on the back, and for a good reason.  I hope that as I walk around the streets/shops in Myanmar, curious locals will scan this code to see what it's all about.  Since the code is on the back of the shirt, they don't have to approach or speak with me.

 

When the code is scanned, it jumps to an explanatory page on my website, and then the person can choose to click or not click on the 'download' button.

 

[simon43]

I'm returning to Myanmar later this month 🙂

 

Bearing in mind the worsening situation as regards electricity, I have also bought a few things from Lazada to augment my existing 'off-grid' go-bag.

So far I have (in no particular order):

- 12 volt solar charger for car battery - in case there is no 220 volts to charge my car battery during the day (I buy the car battery locally - too heavy/not allowed on the plane, also buy the 100 watt solar panel locally)

- 60A solar charge controller, used between the solar panel and car battery. Right now in Myanmar, the price of solar equipment is very high and in short supply. I might not be able to buy the charge controller easily.

- solar/handcrank torch (for those dark streets when I walk to the local restaurant)

- collapsible metal walking stick. I use this in case of angry dogs (but which I have never had to use 'cos all the Burmese dogs are friendly or shy, but not dangerous!). Really, this stick is for protection from muggers, since unfortunately (and not surprisingly), petty crime and street robberies have increased).

- 140 LED light for teaching (my previous lamp was 220 volts, but this 140 LED light has built-in batteries and a USB power port. It's not as bright as the old lamp, but it's much less bulky)

- microphone+loudspeaker for in-class lessons (when I trying to teach English to 50 noisy young kids in the orphanages, a little extra boost to my voice is good to have)

- compact headphones and boom mike (my old set works fine but is rather bulky)

- small 12/220v inverter and larger 1000w 12/220v inverter. These are for use with the car battery to change the 12 volts DC up to 220 volts AC. The smaller unit is just a back-up if the bigger one dies.

- compact 220v power cable extension - Last time when going through Myanmar customs, they tried to confiscate my 220 volt power extension cable on the grounds that I might use it to strangle the pilot on the plane....

- phone stand and clamp - This is a compact selfie stand, in case I have to use Zoom from my mobile phone for lessons (that would be a last resort).

- laptop spare battery

- power bank

- USB foldable bluetooth keyboard - to use with Zoom from a mobile phone

- 4 mobile phones (one for each mobile network, since the junta switches the mobile networks off/on like crazy!)


Hmm, what else would I need to ensure reliable internet connections? The fixed line internet is generally OK, it's the mobile networks that people use to communicate with each other, so that's what the military target. Oh yes, got VPNs installed on my laptop and mobile devices, and my own 'secret' VPN server installed on my web-server.

[Gaccha]

On 11/21/2024 at 5:25 PM, simon43 said:

Mandalay is close to the 'front line'

 

My Burmese friend, an INGO worker, relies on the UK's FCO map of Myanmar to understand the current situation of the frontline. So here it is: 

 

 

You are right on the edge of the area described as 'advise against all travel'.

 

These travel advisories are really meant for the naive traveller so I don't think you have to follow their advice and flee. But I would suggest you have a bag packed and ready.

[simon43]

51 minutes ago, Gaccha said:

 

My Burmese friend, an INGO worker, relies on the UK's FCO map of Myanmar to understand the current situation of the frontline. So here it is: 

 

 

You are right on the edge of the area described as 'advise against all travel'.

 

These travel advisories are really meant for the naive traveller so I don't think you have to follow their advice and flee. But I would suggest you have a bag packed and ready.

Lol, that map is out of date! Attacks have occurred 13 km from the city and it's predicted that the pdf will attempt to cut the airport road and the Pwin Oo Lwin road.  Situations can change fast...