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Pick Up Performance Parts/suspensions


philipm

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hey Travelmate,

if you like the petrol then go that route, there are a few tritons with 1jz, 2jz (supra engines), 4g63 (evo 9 engine) and also an rb26dett (gtr engine). i think the way to go mate if you want the petrol is get the 3jz, you will get alot of power for the buck, plus you can always modify the turbos more.........

i recon you should get a 2nd hand triton, as brand new will be useless concidering all the warrenty will die with those mods haha,

as for getting a 3jz they will give you the 6speed manual gearbox from the 2jz, at that point a clutch replacement to a twinplate will be adquate for sustaining those mods and for more power to.

LSD the way to go with that is put either an aftermarket system or taking it from another car lsd, which will be the cheapest route (though the 4x4 has a stock lsd so that helps), suspensions as i mentation you should go for the project X suspenions.... (NEW ones will comeout perhaps in a month, i will get it installed for testing-my truck is a project truck it will be full rideheight adjustable, coilspring rear-rideheight adjustable, super quick damping and 35mm rods, but with the new ones PROJECT XS, IT will include a nitrogen subtank with it)-to adjust stiffness and softness damping.

in my opinion 18" on a low truck is more than enough, your clearnence will be way to little if you put 19 or 20s... though if you want you can put 18's on the front and 19's on the rear, with 18's and 19's you can fit 285! plus in regards to the brakes, a fully brembo kit front and rear (high performance 4piston or 6piston will do very adquatly, with prices starting from 60-70k for the large front and rear disk brake converison for the rear)

rollcage is a easy thing to do, i have a place where they not only make the rollcage but also reinforce it with solid blocks of high strenght wood inside the fabricated steal rollcage, with colors of matalic blue!

as for interior that will take the longest, i know of a place which removes all the dash, side panels etc and converted it into a high qulaity carbonfiber kevelar for about 20k or so, but that initself will take at least a week to do, though the amount of weight saved is very noticable, at that point getting the bucket seats you want and a removable steering wheel lock, with a momo or whatever brand you want racing steering wheel is the choice to go.

next step is to get a carbonfiber hood, you will save atleast 10kg on that or more, with the new hood only weighing about 2kgs, as for the rear, we can adopt a carbon tray door if you have the budget for the new mold, if not then using the std is acceptable,, we will strip out the bed linear to, anything to save weight. a sunroof converison can be done for about 20k with warrenty, or if you want leave it std.

you can fully pimp up your ride and make it redicilously fast to, even an engine start button. in all honesty with the tritons utility cab you have either the commonrail or the std diesel engines, commonrail are faster from the go, though with modifications ifs slightly harder to work with, unless you get the ECU diesel monster, which can disable or limit the sensors to a much higher setting... if you dont want the commonrail and just for the normal fuelpump diesels, that is easy to work with to, but in a completly different way with less tuning and less economical/comfort, but then again if you are changing to the petrol it should matter at all.

btw if you have msn i can talk to you there, if it is convient for you. otherwise i will keep posting pages worth of info. haha

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btw here is some pics of the suspension PROJECT X, these just came out to the market less than 2weeks ago, i have it in to test and keep, at the same time when the newer devloping PROJECT XS comes out i will test those out to. i make sure i test everything before i sell any to customers :o

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Was on MSN, but no more.

Like I said it will be an ongoing project. Timewise will not be a problem. As there will periods I will not be using it. Certainly won't be my daily driver.

Hmm seems as though after reading your posts. I am beginning to realise what I want in a project.

Supra engine would be the prefered route. 6 speed a definite must. The weight saving ideas are good nad can be done on a progressive scale. Mostly dependant on disposable cash.

Definitely getting a older second hand unit, as most of it will not be used. The cheaper I can find the more funds for the project.

At least I have a ballpark figure now. Which is so far so good.

Just need to get Xmas and New Year out of the way.

And get the ball roliing.

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Were you happy with the service?

Yes, I use that service many times.

Can i ask how much your brakes were? I'm guessing 55K or so..

40K, second hand (used 2 weeks only)

Did you test drive the focus today? How was it?

No. There is no diesel Focus at dealership in Pattaya and I had to go to Chonburi for test-drive but have no time to do it.

Tomorrow will try again in Bangkok

But the meneger from Pattaya said that there is no restyling models available now.

Ford will present it on MotorExpo 2008

Grant there is a new article in the motoring section of the BKK post about the new diesel focus. It will also have a new semi auto gearbox this time around! Price is 1.099M I think. Might be worth checking out...

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philipm,

thank u so much 4 e reply, fyi my truck is only 2 months old n nothing has been done on it YET...other words "it is still untouch". anyways next week, i'll b changing my stock intercooler piping to stainless steel pipe, stock catalytic converter to 2.5" stainless steel downpipe n stock exhaust pipe to 3" stainless steel pipe at e same time intalling a oil catch tank too. i'm also planning to convert e stock air filter to K&N 6" type air filter. any comment...??

as 4 e piggiebacks/ecu, wat do u recommand me as i hav no idea which would b e best 4 my truck...

dis is my 1st time owning a diesel truck n hav not much or mayb even no exprience in mod diesel trucks. so i need all e help/advice dat i can get.

thank u, appreciate e help

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hey Ferdy,

sure as for diesel mods, take them slow, dont mess with the intake pod, leave it std just change your filter, otherwise it will result to many engine check lights, due to the MAF sensor reads to much air flow....this sucks but its the way to go.

otherwise, i would suggest to make your downpipe, exhaust pipe 2.75" not 2.5, that way when you start more modifications you wont need to change them again.

change your intercooler piping to aliminum if you have the budget, it is much more efficient, at the same time if you cant then steal is the way to go, just make sure its completly polished (less restriction of the airflow),

installing an oil catchcan is a good mod, i have done it to my truck with over 10,000km, and there is so much black shit that the can acquired, after seeing that i was relieved that that wasnt going into my cold air pipe and turbo haha....

as for the ecu/piggieback, well i can recomend several, i think the best thing to find that out though is for me to ask you these questions:

do you want more horsepower or torque???

do you want to drive it for everyday and want it to be comfortable?

do you rev your engine always high? or like to change gear at lower rpms,

how do you drive every day????

answer these for me and i can recommend you a particular ecu/piggieback system :o

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ahhhh, bloody test car, i attempted to do the dyno, but there dyno wont allow me to get past 2nd gear (3rd gear or 4th is where the dyno reads the power), for some reason there is to much of a jolt from 2nd to 3rd, that the dyno assumes they have stoped the run. strange,,,, anyways they asked me several times to turn down the boost, switch of my eletronic throttle controller and also to take of my lightbox, my reaction was <deleted>, haha, i drive it at max setting everyday, i dont turn down the boost, nor take of my lightbox or turn down the electronic throttle controller....dayumm how annoying,

i have a reading for my 2nd gear of only 94km at 360nm of torque and 190whp, which sucks, as power and torque kicks in only at 3rd gear, hummmm, atleast they did do something right, first setting the dyno graph to 250hp, haha, after the first run they tunner changed it to 500, well excedding the 250hp and 500nm torque range, to bad.

at one point we had 4 people sitting in the car to keep down the traction, and they sprayed grip spray to make my tiers stick to the rolls,

hummm at the end of the day after 8attempts, say said sorry, please retune your car to keep the power more linear so we can change gears without a rollout, sucks balls!

haha, anyways so hopefully on monday or the sort i will go again after tunning and see what no. come out. the tuner expects highhh 200's, to low 300's with the auto, and was indeed impressed but hel_l that will have to wait till next time.

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philipm....

sorry 4 e late reply was abit bz e last couple of days.....

Q1. Horsepower

Q2. Yes

Q3. i rarely rev when i'm driving around town n yes when i'm driving long distance

Q4. slow n steady :o well most of e time i'll try 2 enjoy my ride but sometime one just cant avoid pressing e pedal a little bit more :D

thanks 4 e info....

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HEY i got the dyno done at PowerLab the porsche garage in dindang....

i will go back within the next few days after getting Pe Muu to tune my megafire to its maximum capabilities....

and to change my airpod intake, back into the std O.E airpod box (to avoide engine checklight....which was unfortunatlly on during the run :o)

anyways the result!

first of powerlab gives less power then testcar by about 5%, but they know how to do automatic! :D

the power 260WHP 548NM OF WHEEL TORQUE! -about (310flywheel hp, and 600nm to the fly)

at the same time, after the retune etc it should reach 300WHP and over 600NM of WHeel torque!

this will happen in a few days!

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hey Grant, the fortuner is a good platform for ecu mods, though if you want to keep the stock turbo it is very limited, as it has a VGA turbo and you can increase boost pressure, which sucks balls.

at the same time, with its 4wd system it does stick to the road nicely, and at higher speeds its very comfortable.

now, if you want to modify the fortuner with a turbo change etc, thats a completly different issue, change the turbo immediately haha, and with the ecus etc, intercooler etc you will be pushing out a healthy 250whp. you dont want to much for the 4wd,,, though if you want more it can be our project :o

to that exent moding a fortuner is more pricey, in the thought that you have alot more big brakes options etc...

btw 250whp is close to 300crank hp, so if we make a project for 300whp it will be mighty quick, not to sure about the 4wd though.... thats why like i said earlier it will be a project.

at the same time go for the manual if you want the acceleration and modified setup....

btw if you want i know a few places that can drop a 2jz etc in there, but it will lose the 4wd you will be running only 2wd. though getting stock power of about 240WHP about 280crank hp....stock, drop a larger turbo then you will make 3+400+ hp etc.

which option do you think you will go for? keeping the diesel or change to the petrol?

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which option do you think you will go for? keeping the diesel or change to the petrol?

Got one nice call today - my K20A in garage already and I can start swap when I'll back from Phuket.

After swap I can start thinking of modifications - there is a lot of options for K20A

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which option do you think you will go for? keeping the diesel or change to the petrol?

Got one nice call today - my K20A in garage already and I can start swap when I'll back from Phuket.

After swap I can start thinking of modifications - there is a lot of options for K20A

what about modifying an e90 330i? Scare to do it as everything is so expensive but do not know whether it is reliable.

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which option do you think you will go for? keeping the diesel or change to the petrol?

Got one nice call today - my K20A in garage already and I can start swap when I'll back from Phuket.

After swap I can start thinking of modifications - there is a lot of options for K20A

How much did your K20A cost? Anybody any ideas of cost of H22/H22A c/w gearbox(manual or auto)and all ancillaries. thanks Kartman

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kool Grant congrat for your motor ariving, swap it and tell me how it runs, after that when you are ready we can start thinking of mods for it :o im sure you will be happy with your new found power :D and 9000k rpm redline :D

Kartman,

the h22a with a manual gearbox including all nessary things will cost you about 100k, or less. perhaps 120k installed.

if that is what you want i can give my honda garage a call and ask them.

you are looking at the h22a (220hp) 2.2L prelude engine?

btw for what car?

if it is for a honda civic eg or ek hatch, then its quite heavy and will bring the nose down conciderbly. though if it is for a coupe or saloon then its all good. its an old engine but hel_l its alot cheaper then a k20a with the same power of it, more torque and much lower redline.

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philipm Just an initial inquiry at the moment may want to build bit of a sleeper nothing outwardly sporty that i can transport the family in but also play with the boy racers in thier spoilered stock Yaris's etc in a straight line. H22A is probably the extreme realise will have to upgrade brakes,springs etc with that so may have to settle for something slightly less potent to keep auxillery costs down will just depend on cost of initial car purchase and what it is, but thanks for your reply kartman

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Hi philipm,

I've got a 3l vigo 4x4 auto. Actually is the perfect vehicle for my requirements, 4 door pickup. Truck is only 9 months old now and I wouldn't modify it while still under warranty, another 2 years. I believe the 3l diesel produces around 165hp which is fine for me but maybe in the future I'd like around 220hp. Don't need it, just want it :o

Can you give an idea of what would need to be done and cost please? I really don't want to end up with something that makes more noise though. An increase in top speed is not really necessary though if it's a consequence of the mods then fine. Smooth power delivery would also be a requirement as I'm happy with current delivery. Lastly, I wouldn't be happy to trade reliability for increased performance.

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yea sure mate,

for 220hp, i would recommend first off get our newest piggyback system, DMS (diesel management system),

it is currently the most powerful unit we have avalible, and at the same time is very smooth.

with this product your vigo should be making around 205hp.

to gain that extra 20, i would recommend getting a boost cut controller which will allow your turbo to boost a little more, without distrubing the ecu.

you also have the option for the top speed eliminator, though thats purely up to you. it is not nessary.

i would further recommend getting a exhaust with a full catback system, (fujibutso) a renouned brand in japan, and actually i have the same exhaust and mate its not loud at all, its just so smooth and allows the exhaust flow so smoothly.

that would get you around 220hp.

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dms cost 25,000

boost cut for 5,000.

exhaust and catback for 12000.

Thanks for the quick reply. Actually sounds pretty good and the price is certainly right. Might try and persuade the wife that the warranty is not that important :o and do it earlier..... Can you PM me your 'phone number so I've got it for the future? You mentioned there would actually be an increase in top speed though it's not really required. Just curious, how much faster would it be? And no problem with the extra power through the auto box? Cheers

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