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Thai Red Brick Versus Autoclaved Aerated Concrete Block


lifeincnx

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Beginning my house construction and I would like to know if anyone has used the new, lighter autoclaved aerated concrete block for home wall construction. It seems like a good alternative to the standard red brick as it goes up much faster with less mortar aand may haave better insulation quality. But I'm concerned if it is too poreous and retains water, breaks down later, etc. Thanks.

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There are at least FIVE different cement firms making this sort of quality block, often under a license from a European firm. All of the brands we priced have a wide variety of sizes and thickness. The prices vary from firm to firm and even from which shop you purchase the blocks. Do NOT worry about how the blocks can have a few "blems" when they arrive. There are NUMEROUS times the building staff will SAW blocks to fit a size, such as near a window opening. We used 12.5 thick CPAC brand blocks for all of our EXTERIOR walls and 7.5 CPAC blocks for all interior walls. I recently toured a VERY large home near Korat being built for a Thai building contractor which had double thick (with an air/pipe/wiring gap) autoclaved aerated blocks in most of his interior and exterior walls.

Of MAJOR consideration when you obtain bids for your building project is to insist that a technical staff person from the building block manufacturer will come to your site (or make specific arrangements to transport your building staff to a free seminar) and give a multi media demonstration on the PROPER way to install the blocks, chap the walls, etc... In our case at the time we had our home built CPAC bid the lowest price for the size blocks our architect had specified, INCLUDING shipment to the site, but prices can change. We later realized the Surin Home Mart charges less for the exact same block as the Buriram Home Mart. CPAC sent two technicians to instruct the crew of Thai citizen home construction workers and even the men who had worked with this sort of block on a different project told my wife they learned some important information at the on site seminar. There are some subtle difference between the brands so check out the five web sites.

All that said we do have some surface cracks in our walls, but CPAC sent our a technical representative and they claim the cracks are due to a metal "mesh" that was skipped by our builder. The booklet was in Thai, I sure was not capable of reading about that mesh so I suggest you have someone who can read and translate Thai look at the booklet of the block company and make sure your building contract specifies that manufacturer recommended mesh. The mesh we did not obtain is installed where the blocks meet the support upright columns and window horizontal lintels. CPAC told my current maintenance staff person how to "fix" the crack, but I think I'll wait 8 years until the Dulux Ultima paint needs to be reapplied. I just do not see the chances for a good color match after the possible repair and the cracks are only in some parts on the surface chapping.

I would like to think that the autoclaved blocks have helped to cool our home and the walls do NOT get warm on th inside as our normal brick rental house did. The autoclaved blocks are a better soundproofing material in my opinion as our teenage daughter can never hear when her Mom calls up to her room. Another great feature of the autoclaved blocks is the ability to safely place the AIR CONDITIONING wires and pipes INTO the thick wall blocks so you do not have a need for plastic piping down your exterior walls for the a/c units. Curves in the building design were easy with the size blocks our architect selected.

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Notice more and more new houses built with this block.... this type of block has come down a lot in price..

when I had the house built it would have cost over 1 million more, so was built in the Thai red brick, the kitchen I built myself as Thai builder then had no idea about this block.... the normal 60x20x7 block I managed to get at a discount @ 22 baht each !! now-a-day the same block is 7 baht each.. Also hard at the time was to find the Glue and the plaster for these blocks, but I did find then.

The Thai builders were shocked, I had built the 9mx4m kitchen, installed the water, waste all the electric, windows and door + plastered inside and out within the week, while they were still laying the floors in the main house.....

Years ago in Portugal built a lot with this block + find plastering easy, I owned a small building Company in the Algarve when I was younger. EDIT: everything in Portugal was also build using re-bar concrete pillars and ring-breams

Edited by ignis
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red bricks

very strong (for kitchen cabinets etc)

inexpensive

no problem with water

white blocks

sound and temp insulating

build fast

sucks water like a sponge

light weight

I prefere all bathrooms and kitchen in redbricks

when I use white blocks, first 20 cm from the floor must be redbricks to reduce risk for waterdamage and I want lintel despite maufactorer saying not needed.

Sinked 5 different brand name blocks in water 3 years ago. Scaled them first (all similar weight) and after 24 hours. Superblock came out best (lightest-less water). I think I m not allowed to say which was realy soaked

Building double walls, the temp and noise result is rather similar with red bricks

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red bricks

very strong (for kitchen cabinets etc)

inexpensive

no problem with water

white blocks

sound and temp insulating

build fast

sucks water like a sponge

light weight

I prefere all bathrooms and kitchen in redbricks

when I use white blocks, first 20 cm from the floor must be redbricks to reduce risk for waterdamage and I want lintel despite maufactorer saying not needed.

Sinked 5 different brand name blocks in water 3 years ago. Scaled them first (all similar weight) and after 24 hours. Superblock came out best (lightest-less water). I think I m not allowed to say which was realy soaked

Building double walls, the temp and noise result is rather similar with red bricks

For a wet room one need of course fit a proper moisture barrier like one would do if the house walls were made of wood. Why chose the red bricks when a proper solution is so easy to have?

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Notice more and more new houses built with this block.... this type of block has come down a lot in price..

true! and so has the quality of aerated concrete blocks in Thailand. the reason is that the commodity aluminium (our american friends say "aluminum") powder which is used as "ingredient" has like may other commodities exploded in price over the years. thus less air pockets in the block, weight increase and less insulation value.

p.s. anybody who prefers to use "thai red bricks" which is laid the "thai way" (mortar 2-3cm) for any purpose over aerated concrete blocks has no bloody idea as far as construction is concerned. but of said "no bloody idea" he/she possesses a wealth!

:D

p.s. "these are aerated gypsum aren't they?"

no they are not gypsum but concrete containing tiny air bubbles :)

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how do you know they're 'concrete'?...I know the company calls them concrete, I'd be willing to bet there's no cement in them (concrete is cement and aggregate)

p.s. "these are aerated gypsum aren't they?"

no they are not gypsum but concrete containing tiny air bubbles :)

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Whether using red bricks or lightweight blocks, a cement sand curb of 15cm height should first be built above the floor and then construct the wall on top of this curb. This curb is necessary in walls that are wet on one side while the other side is to be dry, eg. external walls exposed to rain and bathrooms.

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how do you know they're 'concrete'?...I know the company calls them concrete, I'd be willing to bet there's no cement in them (concrete is cement and aggregate)

go ahead, bet and lose. :) 27 years ago i was the responsible project manager building a cement factory in Nigeria which produced pure white (15%) and gray (85 of the production) Portland cement.

"White Portland cement or white ordinary Portland cement (WOPC) is similar to ordinary, gray Portland cement in all respects except for its high degree of whiteness. Obtaining this color requires substantial modification to the method of manufacture, and because of this, it is somewhat more expensive than the gray product.

White Portland cement is used in combination with white aggregates to produce white concrete for prestige construction projects and decorative work. White concrete usually takes the form of pre-cast cladding panels, since it is uneconomic to use white cement for structural purposes. White Portland cement is also used in combination with inorganic pigments to produce brightly colored concretes and mortars. Ordinary cement, when used with pigments, produces colors that may be attractive, but are somewhat dull."

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red bricks

very strong (for kitchen cabinets etc)

inexpensive

no problem with water

white blocks

sound and temp insulating

build fast

sucks water like a sponge

light weight

I prefere all bathrooms and kitchen in redbricks

when I use white blocks, first 20 cm from the floor must be redbricks to reduce risk for waterdamage and I want lintel despite maufactorer saying not needed.

Sinked 5 different brand name blocks in water 3 years ago. Scaled them first (all similar weight) and after 24 hours. Superblock came out best (lightest-less water). I think I m not allowed to say which was realy soaked

Building double walls, the temp and noise result is rather similar with red bricks

For a wet room one need of course fit a proper moisture barrier like one would do if the house walls were made of wood. Why chose the red bricks when a proper solution is so easy to have?

Moisture barriers are fine. Until thais tile using nails trhrough the barrier to hold the tiles. Leaks around any pipe. Screws to hold towlbars, showerheads etc.

Why complicate and build more expensive when redbricks bathroomwalls last hundreds of years?

House walls made of wood and gypsum have major water problems in the west, making it normal to renovate bathrooms every 10-20 years or so. and this happens even when excellent quality wateripes are installed by pros outside the walls (not build in like here).

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thanks for the information....I (think) I stand corrected...do you Know how they're made? what's the aggregate? and are you saying white cement is used in a block which will be plastered or hidden in finished construction?

Cement, lime and sand: mixed with water to form a slurry,then Aluminum powder is added, which is the only raw material imported The aluminum powder reacts with lime to form millions of tiny hydrogen bubbles which expand the mixture and then diffuse from the material to be replaced by air. This process forms the micro - cellular structure, which gives the material its lightweight and excellent insulation.

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Moisture barriers are fine. Until thais tile using nails trhrough the barrier to hold the tiles. Leaks around any pipe. Screws to hold towlbars, showerheads etc.

I recommend Radcon Formula #7 or Masterseal 525 for use as sealants in wet rooms and all plug holes should of course be filled with silicon before the screws are being used.

I simply do not understand comments such as "Thai builders don't do that etc.". I supervise the construction and the instructions have been communicated quite clearly as if they don't do it right the first time they'll have to do it all over again. I simply refuse to accept compromises just to please the builders and their face savings; as long as I pay the bills it is my way, period!

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Moisture barriers are fine. Until thais tile using nails trhrough the barrier to hold the tiles. Leaks around any pipe. Screws to hold towlbars, showerheads etc.

I recommend Radcon Formula #7 or Masterseal 525 for use as sealants in wet rooms and all plug holes should of course be filled with silicon before the screws are being used.

I simply do not understand comments such as "Thai builders don't do that etc.". I supervise the construction and the instructions have been communicated quite clearly as if they don't do it right the first time they'll have to do it all over again. I simply refuse to accept compromises just to please the builders and their face savings; as long as I pay the bills it is my way, period!

Whats the advantage over a redbrick wall, except being much more expensive, slower to build and complicated to supervice and repair?

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Whats the advantage over a redbrick wall, except being much more expensive, slower to build and complicated to supervice and repair?

The insulation factor (K-value) is superior over the poor quality Thai red bricks. The super blocks are actually very easy to build and if built in dual rows with a cavity the U-value is better than most other building materials.

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Whats the advantage over a redbrick wall, except being much more expensive, slower to build and complicated to supervice and repair?

The insulation factor (K-value) is superior over the poor quality Thai red bricks. The super blocks are actually very easy to build and if built in dual rows with a cavity the U-value is better than most other building materials.

For bathrooms and kitchen I still choose red bricks due to the superior strength and lack of problem with water soaking. Double walls redbricks plastered 3 sides is almost as good on K value in real life.

For other rooms I choose white blocks only if the first 20 cm from the floor is made of red bricks to prevent water being sucked up the walls

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For other rooms I choose white blocks only if the first 20 cm from the floor is made of red bricks to prevent water being sucked up the walls

Bricks or blocks, water will be sucked up or leak through if the wall is not built on a concrete curb, and instead, directly from floor up.

The weakness to water penetration is not in the brick or block, but in the mortar joints.

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For other rooms I choose white blocks only if the first 20 cm from the floor is made of red bricks to prevent water being sucked up the walls

Bricks or blocks, water will be sucked up or leak through if the wall is not built on a concrete curb, and instead, directly from floor up.

The weakness to water penetration is not in the brick or block, but in the mortar joints.

The weakness of white aereated blocks is their ability to soak water double of their own weight. They have close to none mortar joint (1-2mm "glue") to soak water

2 forst layer of red bricks directly on floor with "ganzum" in mortar does not soak water

Worst is it when a wall is build in a concrete roof slab, with aereated blocks directly on the concrete slab. Lifetime 1-3 years even with a good slope in slab.

But hey, everyone can choose the quality of their house :)

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The weakness of white aereated blocks is their ability to soak water double of their own weight. They have close to none mortar joint (1-2mm "glue") to soak water

A concrete floor surface is not so flat to enable using just a 1-3mm thick mortar glue to achieve a controlled horizontal first course of blocks.

My condo projects are all detailed with concrete curbs under wet walls so that stagnant water between vertical and horizontal surfaces has min. chance of penetrating. Also, the curb is part of the waterproof tanking system in the bathroom, from floor up to the curb.

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The weakness of white aereated blocks is their ability to soak water double of their own weight. They have close to none mortar joint (1-2mm "glue") to soak water

A concrete floor surface is not so flat to enable using just a 1-3mm thick mortar glue to achieve a controlled horizontal first course of blocks.

My condo projects are all detailed with concrete curbs under wet walls so that stagnant water between vertical and horizontal surfaces has min. chance of penetrating. Also, the curb is part of the waterproof tanking system in the bathroom, from floor up to the curb.

Agree 15-20 cm concrete curb is the best solution for areated blocks, however it does not get waterproof when only 7,5 cm thick as the wall is

Aeraeted blocks in wet walls will sooner or later have water or moisture problems, and the reason to use them in condos is fast build, light weight and easy logistic. Red bricks is a better material for wet walls being unable to soak water

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Notice more and more new houses built with this block.... this type of block has come down a lot in price..

when I had the house built it would have cost over 1 million more, so was built in the Thai red brick, the kitchen I built myself as Thai builder then had no idea about this block.... the normal 60x20x7 block I managed to get at a discount @ 22 baht each !! now-a-day the same block is 7 baht each.. Also hard at the time was to find the Glue and the plaster for these blocks, but I did find then.

The Thai builders were shocked, I had built the 9mx4m kitchen, installed the water, waste all the electric, windows and door + plastered inside and out within the week, while they were still laying the floors in the main house.....

Years ago in Portugal built a lot with this block + find plastering easy, I owned a small building Company in the Algarve when I was younger. EDIT: everything in Portugal was also build using re-bar concrete pillars and ring-breams

Hi, I have just started to get ready to build a house in Pak Chong using this material. I have seen it used in the UK with very good success against the cold. I was interested to see where you say you should be able to purchase the 60X20X7cm blocks for 7Bht each. The best quote I have had is 17 Bht each and 19 Bht from Cpac.

Look forward to recieving some information from you.

Happy New Year Mike

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