Loosing Air Pressure In Most Types Of Tires

[WarpSpeed]

Heat and humidity (tons here) can affect the tire pressure and how quickly air escapes. I don't know where to find any but if possible, fill up your tires with nitrogen gas. Molecules are bigger so less air escapes and it's safer.

Correct, there is a scientific basis for this, but for normal car tires, will cost you a f*kcing fortune, aircraft tires are nitrogen filled as it is inert and doesn support fire...

They are also constantly reaching heating and cooling extremes in which maintaining any consistent tire PSI would be impossible and it prevents them bursting with altitude changes and pressure changes similar to getting the bends when you are scuba diving, which Oh! BTW is what is mixed with oxygen to allow you to dive and not explode your lungs or boil your blood (not literally of course but due to moisture in normal air, moisture compresses and expands more thus the topic title)..

Think I will stick with the compressor at the PTT petrol station for my tire filling needs...

[WarpSpeed]

I have a tyre presure temp gauge in my fortuna. So check it every time I turn on. Seem's to stay the same all the time with only the odd top up of one or two pounds every month. My M/Cy is a different kettle of fish looses about 10pound's a week. Never found the air line's in petrol station's any good they all seem to read all over the place.

Is that a "TEMP" gauge or "Pressure" gauge? The station pressure gauges inaccuracy is why I carry my own, even if wrong a consistent gauge is still essential set it by YOUR gauge..

I recommend putting in 10% more air then you would if cold, most people here don't run proper pressure anyway.

The locals put in 32 pounds on Z rated or even H rated tires regardless of manufacturer recommendations which are stamped into every sidewall and which now a days require much higher pressures to support the sidewall under loads. I usually fill to within about 10% of maximum pressure for proper inflation and allows for expansion without exceeding maximum, it increases ride stiffness so not so comfortable but also increase tire life, fuel mileage, as well as braking and steering response so the trade off is worth it..

Most refer to the automotive manufacturer listing on the car but that is just a general guideline not an absolute and varies greatly with tire manufacturers and ratings then common sense has to take over and we all know how much of that there is here..

I also regulate about 2 pounds diff between front and rear between FWD and RWD as they heat up differently, if FWD, 2 lbs more in the rear unless you have an LPG tank as it adds quite a bit of weight to the rear so heats up OK, reverse if RWD..

Make sure the proper pressure is in your tires before you have them aligned too as this will change your alignment settings and wear..

As stated temp & presure gauge Toyota extra. Tell's temp and presure in clock wise direction one at a time. Also give's an audible warning if have puncture or un'natural problem with tyre. Update on each tyre every 40sec while engine is on. I belive will fit most car's

So curious to know if you know what optimum tire temp is required for optimum tire wear and performance? This is not an attack or meant to be an offense or belittle but the reasoning for the question is to prove a point.

The point being that a tire temp gauge in a street vehicle is an absolute waste of money feature in that there are so few people that even have a clue as to what temp they are supposed to be reading? What is high temp and what is low? What is optimum for wear versus performance? Additionally proper tire temps are to be taken at 6 points on a given tire and they are on the outside edge, the inside edge and the middle and then again 180 degrees around the tire to be certain your tire PSI is optimum and these temps should not vary more then 10 degrees across the tread from each other.. So if you had low pressures would you know it based on tire temps? For your tire make/size what is optimum tire temp? Again I don't expect you to know, nor do I intend that as challenge to your intellect just making a point...

[enginerevision]

I a hot country like Thailand, tires pressure differences between hot and cold can be around 0.4/ 0.5 bar.

I think alot of people are using cheap tires and a to low tire pressure, that's what causes to leak.

And like said by previous people here, the numer of PSI or BAR on the tire wall is the maximum safe tested pressure for the tyre. It's not ment to be pumped that hard !!

Curious? Who has suggested it be pumped that high?? It is not the maximum safe tire pressure either, it is the maximum safe tire pressure under stated load I.E. 1188lbs or 530kgs per tire. Are you so foolish to think that if the maximum stated tire pressure is 44 lbs PSI that at 45 PSI it is going to explode?? A tire is rated as much as 3 times it's maximum pressure before failure so it would be foolish to think otherwise, the manufacturer won't tell you that though because some idiot might test that for entertainment and kill themselves.... As said, it is a general guideline and disclaimer to keep it simple-stupid for the average monkey out there, kind of like McDonalds having to put a warning on their coffee cups that the liquid inside may be hot and can cause burns .....

On the track I routinely ran my pressures within 15 to 20% of their maximum and guess what? Amazingly I have never had a tire failure from said pressure in more the 20 years of racing, once my crew over-inflated it though and it had too much over-steer and caused a minor crash...Once they are hot that pressure very often exceeds maximum PSI and tires on the track run much higher temps and sidewall stresses then you will ever see on a street application under normal driving and that's also with Nitrogen as mentioned..Why do you think so many tire manufacturers are involved in Racing in the first place? It's the riggers the tires are put through, there's years of R&D gained in just a few races..

I come across alot of people who pump up tires that high yes. But I'm in Europe, not in Thailand. Secondly, I wasn't talking about the race track here was I? . And yes I've experienced a tire blow up, at slightly above this rated maxium psi pressure on the tire wall, it wasn't fun at all . Here in Europe they offer nitrougen filling of tires almost everywhere, but most folks us just regular air. I guess the problem is more in hot countries.

[seedy]

So curious to know if you know what optimum tire temp is required for optimum tire wear and performance? This is not an attack or meant to be an offense or belittle but the reasoning for the question is to prove a point.

Back in my bike racing days, we used the 10 % rule. This is done by checking tire pressure cold, going on the track to heat up tires, and measuring hot. You were aiming for a 10 % pressure increase from cold to hot.

[Wash]

I have to admit to a level of ignorance and in fact that is why I posted the original question. I do start to get the impression that the thread has been hi-jacked though and hope that the OP can be considered instead of arguing about racing tires in Europe.

[fredob43]

I have a tyre presure temp gauge in my fortuna. So check it every time I turn on. Seem's to stay the same all the time with only the odd top up of one or two pounds every month. My M/Cy is a different kettle of fish looses about 10pound's a week. Never found the air line's in petrol station's any good they all seem to read all over the place.

Is that a "TEMP" gauge or "Pressure" gauge? The station pressure gauges inaccuracy is why I carry my own, even if wrong a consistent gauge is still essential set it by YOUR gauge..

I recommend putting in 10% more air then you would if cold, most people here don't run proper pressure anyway.

The locals put in 32 pounds on Z rated or even H rated tires regardless of manufacturer recommendations which are stamped into every sidewall and which now a days require much higher pressures to support the sidewall under loads. I usually fill to within about 10% of maximum pressure for proper inflation and allows for expansion without exceeding maximum, it increases ride stiffness so not so comfortable but also increase tire life, fuel mileage, as well as braking and steering response so the trade off is worth it..

Most refer to the automotive manufacturer listing on the car but that is just a general guideline not an absolute and varies greatly with tire manufacturers and ratings then common sense has to take over and we all know how much of that there is here..

I also regulate about 2 pounds diff between front and rear between FWD and RWD as they heat up differently, if FWD, 2 lbs more in the rear unless you have an LPG tank as it adds quite a bit of weight to the rear so heats up OK, reverse if RWD..

Make sure the proper pressure is in your tires before you have them aligned too as this will change your alignment settings and wear..

As stated temp & presure gauge Toyota extra. Tell's temp and presure in clock wise direction one at a time. Also give's an audible warning if have puncture or un'natural problem with tyre. Update on each tyre every 40sec while engine is on. I belive will fit most car's

So curious to know if you know what optimum tire temp is required for optimum tire wear and performance? This is not an attack or meant to be an offense or belittle but the reasoning for the question is to prove a point.

The point being that a tire temp gauge in a street vehicle is an absolute waste of money feature in that there are so few people that even have a clue as to what temp they are supposed to be reading? What is high temp and what is low? What is optimum for wear versus performance? Additionally proper tire temps are to be taken at 6 points on a given tire and they are on the outside edge, the inside edge and the middle and then again 180 degrees around the tire to be certain your tire PSI is optimum and these temps should not vary more then 10 degrees across the tread from each other.. So if you had low pressures would you know it based on tire temps? For your tire make/size what is optimum tire temp? Again I don't expect you to know, nor do I intend that as challenge to your intellect just making a point...

Just been out to check pre/tem. 30psi all round and 32c under cover. of course when moving temp go's up as dose the presure. It is a safety device. what the ultimate temp: is I would'nt have a clue as it change's all the time acording to the speed load, and out side temp: Fortuna should be 30psi all round, when COLD. I dont think there can be an ultimate temp. On a fortuna as it change's as stated constantly, If it's that important phone Toyota. 023861000. It's not a racing car so is designed to run, well at all temp's. It save's going round with you tyre presure gauge. Once a week or every day. And a great help if you get a puncture. As it give's an audible warning as soon as the pre: drop's down 5psi from normal. Enabling you to stop before the tyre's buggered. Also tell's you what the spare tyre pre: is. When was the last time you got under the car to check that. ???

[WarpSpeed]

I a hot country like Thailand, tires pressure differences between hot and cold can be around 0.4/ 0.5 bar.

I think alot of people are using cheap tires and a to low tire pressure, that's what causes to leak.

And like said by previous people here, the numer of PSI or BAR on the tire wall is the maximum safe tested pressure for the tyre. It's not ment to be pumped that hard !!

Curious? Who has suggested it be pumped that high?? It is not the maximum safe tire pressure either, it is the maximum safe tire pressure under stated load I.E. 1188lbs or 530kgs per tire. Are you so foolish to think that if the maximum stated tire pressure is 44 lbs PSI that at 45 PSI it is going to explode?? A tire is rated as much as 3 times it's maximum pressure before failure so it would be foolish to think otherwise, the manufacturer won't tell you that though because some idiot might test that for entertainment and kill themselves.... As said, it is a general guideline and disclaimer to keep it simple-stupid for the average monkey out there, kind of like McDonalds having to put a warning on their coffee cups that the liquid inside may be hot and can cause burns .....

On the track I routinely ran my pressures within 15 to 20% of their maximum and guess what? Amazingly I have never had a tire failure from said pressure in more the 20 years of racing, once my crew over-inflated it though and it had too much over-steer and caused a minor crash...Once they are hot that pressure very often exceeds maximum PSI and tires on the track run much higher temps and sidewall stresses then you will ever see on a street application under normal driving and that's also with Nitrogen as mentioned..Why do you think so many tire manufacturers are involved in Racing in the first place? It's the riggers the tires are put through, there's years of R&D gained in just a few races..

I come across alot of people who pump up tires that high yes. But I'm in Europe, not in Thailand. OK but the topic is Thailand so it stands to reason you were making comments about this topic as you said in reference to my racing comparison, "but we aren't talking about Europe are we?".

Secondly, I wasn't talking about the race track here was I? . EVERYTHING learned on the race track applies to every day use, that's a major reason why manufacturers participate as it improves the breed for pennies on the dollar through express R&D..

And yes I've experienced a tire blow up, at slightly above this rated maxium psi pressure on the tire wall, it wasn't fun at all on your car? Or in your face while filling it with air?? If it was on your car it was due to any number of other factors and not just slightly overfilling..Frankly I highly doubt you had one blow up in your face while filling it, if you did I hope you collected a tidy sum from the manufacturer?

[WarpSpeed]

Is that a "TEMP" gauge or "Pressure" gauge? The station pressure gauges inaccuracy is why I carry my own, even if wrong a consistent gauge is still essential set it by YOUR gauge..

I recommend putting in 10% more air then you would if cold, most people here don't run proper pressure anyway.

The locals put in 32 pounds on Z rated or even H rated tires regardless of manufacturer recommendations which are stamped into every sidewall and which now a days require much higher pressures to support the sidewall under loads. I usually fill to within about 10% of maximum pressure for proper inflation and allows for expansion without exceeding maximum, it increases ride stiffness so not so comfortable but also increase tire life, fuel mileage, as well as braking and steering response so the trade off is worth it..

Most refer to the automotive manufacturer listing on the car but that is just a general guideline not an absolute and varies greatly with tire manufacturers and ratings then common sense has to take over and we all know how much of that there is here..

I also regulate about 2 pounds diff between front and rear between FWD and RWD as they heat up differently, if FWD, 2 lbs more in the rear unless you have an LPG tank as it adds quite a bit of weight to the rear so heats up OK, reverse if RWD..

Make sure the proper pressure is in your tires before you have them aligned too as this will change your alignment settings and wear..

As stated temp & presure gauge Toyota extra. Tell's temp and presure in clock wise direction one at a time. Also give's an audible warning if have puncture or un'natural problem with tyre. Update on each tyre every 40sec while engine is on. I belive will fit most car's

So curious to know if you know what optimum tire temp is required for optimum tire wear and performance? This is not an attack or meant to be an offense or belittle but the reasoning for the question is to prove a point.

The point being that a tire temp gauge in a street vehicle is an absolute waste of money feature in that there are so few people that even have a clue as to what temp they are supposed to be reading? What is high temp and what is low? What is optimum for wear versus performance? Additionally proper tire temps are to be taken at 6 points on a given tire and they are on the outside edge, the inside edge and the middle and then again 180 degrees around the tire to be certain your tire PSI is optimum and these temps should not vary more then 10 degrees across the tread from each other.. So if you had low pressures would you know it based on tire temps? For your tire make/size what is optimum tire temp? Again I don't expect you to know, nor do I intend that as challenge to your intellect just making a point...

Warpy, are you having ANOTHER bad day ? Interesting subject this but you do seem to talk to the guys like their school master, that what you say is gospel and when you are questioned or proved wrong get a bit offensive, not just on this subject, so just pointing it out incase your not aware.

Hope you have a better day today.

No bad day, take it or leave it, on this topic with what I'm dealing with here I am the "school master" if that's offensive to some it's only because they feel inadequate or intimidated by their own short comings others will see the information for what it is, valuable and educational and that is my audience......

Anyway I've given my excellent professional advice and am moving on, there's enough intelligent information and common sense there to either apply it or leave it, it's up to you and them.. Everyone is making comments but no one is providing FACTUAL contradictory information, only personal opinions which are baseless without the extensive empirical experience to back it up.. Sorry if that sounds condescending to the thin skinned and hypersensitive....

JFYI the example you've provided is in no way condescending, it is informative and poignant in an adult way..

Edited April 25, 2010 by WarpSpeed

[WarpSpeed]

So curious to know if you know what optimum tire temp is required for optimum tire wear and performance? This is not an attack or meant to be an offense or belittle but the reasoning for the question is to prove a point.

Back in my bike racing days, we used the 10 % rule. This is done by checking tire pressure cold, going on the track to heat up tires, and measuring hot. You were aiming for a 10 % pressure increase from cold to hot.

Thank you seedy, a knowledgeable man, and for the street I would even go as low as 15% as mentioned previously..

[WarpSpeed]

I have to admit to a level of ignorance and in fact that is why I posted the original question. I do start to get the impression that the thread has been hi-jacked though and hope that the OP can be considered instead of arguing about racing tires in Europe.

Well I guess you haven't understood a single thing I apparently wasted my time posting then, sorry for "hijacking your thread" I feel there are probably others who have understood the examples and information presented though so it's not a complete waste of my time..

Next time, if I answer I'll just post one line responses like so many others and not bother to explain my reasoning nor qualifications for my answer, maybe that'll suit you better?

[WarpSpeed]

Is that a "TEMP" gauge or "Pressure" gauge? The station pressure gauges inaccuracy is why I carry my own, even if wrong a consistent gauge is still essential set it by YOUR gauge..

I recommend putting in 10% more air then you would if cold, most people here don't run proper pressure anyway.

The locals put in 32 pounds on Z rated or even H rated tires regardless of manufacturer recommendations which are stamped into every sidewall and which now a days require much higher pressures to support the sidewall under loads. I usually fill to within about 10% of maximum pressure for proper inflation and allows for expansion without exceeding maximum, it increases ride stiffness so not so comfortable but also increase tire life, fuel mileage, as well as braking and steering response so the trade off is worth it..

Most refer to the automotive manufacturer listing on the car but that is just a general guideline not an absolute and varies greatly with tire manufacturers and ratings then common sense has to take over and we all know how much of that there is here..

I also regulate about 2 pounds diff between front and rear between FWD and RWD as they heat up differently, if FWD, 2 lbs more in the rear unless you have an LPG tank as it adds quite a bit of weight to the rear so heats up OK, reverse if RWD..

Make sure the proper pressure is in your tires before you have them aligned too as this will change your alignment settings and wear..

As stated temp & presure gauge Toyota extra. Tell's temp and presure in clock wise direction one at a time. Also give's an audible warning if have puncture or un'natural problem with tyre. Update on each tyre every 40sec while engine is on. I belive will fit most car's

So curious to know if you know what optimum tire temp is required for optimum tire wear and performance? This is not an attack or meant to be an offense or belittle but the reasoning for the question is to prove a point.

The point being that a tire temp gauge in a street vehicle is an absolute waste of money feature in that there are so few people that even have a clue as to what temp they are supposed to be reading? What is high temp and what is low? What is optimum for wear versus performance? Additionally proper tire temps are to be taken at 6 points on a given tire and they are on the outside edge, the inside edge and the middle and then again 180 degrees around the tire to be certain your tire PSI is optimum and these temps should not vary more then 10 degrees across the tread from each other.. So if you had low pressures would you know it based on tire temps? For your tire make/size what is optimum tire temp? Again I don't expect you to know, nor do I intend that as challenge to your intellect just making a point...

Just been out to check pre/tem. 30psi all round and 32c under cover. of course when moving temp go's up as dose the presure. It is a safety device. what the ultimate temp: is I would'nt have a clue as it change's all the time acording to the speed load, and out side temp: Fortuna should be 30psi all round, when COLD. I dont think there can be an ultimate temp. On a fortuna as it change's as stated constantly, If it's that important phone Toyota. 023861000. It's not a racing car so is designed to run, well at all temp's. It save's going round with you tyre presure gauge. Once a week or every day. And a great help if you get a puncture. As it give's an audible warning as soon as the pre: drop's down 5psi from normal. Enabling you to stop before the tyre's buggered. Also tell's you what the spare tyre pre: is. When was the last time you got under the car to check that. ???

My last post on the topic..Gawd!! The lack of understanding here is astounding!! It is not about RACE FE$%^# cars! They are everyday street cars and tires you have on everyday cars in your driveway!! And all of the examples provided are applicable!! And yes an optimum temp is possible and necessary in one consistent instance of driving for several K on the highway for example under normal conditions as a baseline.. But you have to know what is optimum and that only comes from years of experience which is why I said the toy they put in is entirely worthless to the average driver though you paid for it.. Sorry this is like pulling teeth for me so carry on, I'm done...

Edited April 25, 2010 by WarpSpeed

[PattayaParent]

The problem is probably the type of rubber your inner tubes are made from; locally made inner tubes are cheap and made from recycled rubber which is subject to a type of bacteria that eats rubber.

My bicycle inner tubes are bought from Probike and cost 220 Baht, I have no problems with these inner tubes.

My motorbike inner tubes cost 100 Baht and they have to be changed pretty often.

There's no inner tubes on the car tyres that the OP is talking about.

[katabeachbum]

manufacturer recommendations which are stamped into every sidewall and which now a days require much higher pressures to support the sidewall under loads.

not correct

the tyre pressure on tyres sidewall is the TYREMANUFACTORERS limit for tyre pressure, often also called storage pressure or max load pressure.

cars are extendidly tested before released for sale, and the result of the test is displayed in the drivers door sill as recomended pressure for this vehicle with standard tyres.

this pressure gives max traction, brake and lifetime

tyremanufactorers pressure for a Vigo 4x4 auto 4 door is 45 psi displayed on tyrewall, and the vehicle leaves Toyota factory with this pressure to avoid squared tyres during storage.

Toyotas recommended tyre pressure for this vehicle/tyre is 29 psi to obtain max traction and lifetime, tested over a decade and millions of km.

Since I have worked for a high end car manufactorer I trust their tests, and my tyres last 70-90 k km here in LOS

Absolutely IS correct with information provided directly to me by the track side tire engineers of Kumho, Bridgestone, Goodyear, Hoosier, Firestone, Michelin, Yokohama and numerous others who I've dealt with over the course of my motosports career and I'm far more inclined to believe their professional opinion over someone posting anonymously on an expat forum..

More over when was the last time you applied anything you understand in the riggers of track competition? Far more demanding then anything you'll see on the average lifetime of any tires you'll ever buy and before you say it all of those tires I mentioned were DOT approved street legal tires by rule and not specially built race tires or slicks...

I'd also like to include that when Firestone had their famous roll over incidents in SUV's in the States and recalled thousands of tires for inspection and investigation it was found to be under inflation and sidewall flex that caused it. The tire pressures were set to vehicle manufacturer specs for RIDE COMFORT by the vehicle manufacturer and not THE TIRE MANUFACTURER which caused the rollovers. So if you wish to run your SUV tires at 29 PSI that's a chance you're taking with your life and your passengers but don't provide such misleading disinformation to innocent people seeking a serious answer without real FACTS and personal practical experience to support your suggestion. You're suggestion IS dangerous while mine is merely a bit uncomfortable to the passengers.

On closing, high end manufacturer you say? Would that be maybe a Lexus dealership the brand that just had to stop selling their high end SUV for it's roll over safety question?? Yeah I'd take their advice! Point being it doesn't have to be Lexus nor does the topic have to be tires, I wouldn't trust any information you hear from any dealership or manufacturer here in LOS it's all BS, especially high end manufacturers as they know squat from zero practical experience better to educate yourself directly and not take a sales persons advice....Their first priority is to sell vehicles and if the ride is too firm they might not so they fudge somethings for sales and don't believe otherwise..

utter b-sh-t

fact

manufactorers recomended tyrepressure gives the optimum compromise of traction and lifetime. traction and lifetime is achived by having the hole tyres thread equally pressed to road.

comfort is not considered. comfort is desided by suspension and type of tyre

years of testdriving and developing for a high end car manufactorer, not allowed to mention name.

[fredob43]

Yes the temp maybe a toy but the psi bit most certainly isn't. Like the rear view camera I have fitted, in your eye's another toy. Cost, now let me see, what did I pay??? Oh I remember now, as I paid cash, got Toyota to fit them, as well as other bit's for FREE. Great when you want to sell. So toy or not bring it on. Keep pulling the teeth. Ill take the freebee's.

[luckyboy]

so overall what do you guys recommend for my hilux vigo 4x4 265/70 r16 tyres? or should i just stick to the 29 psi all round as on the door sill? or do you mean that's a crucial mistake by Toyota?

[luckyboy]

I'v been here before, another thread, my 2007 Vigo 4x4 auto, same tyres, is/was heavy on the steering so l did some testing and came up with 29 rear 35 front. Perfect FOR ME, l say again perfect for ME. Don't care if they wear out a bit quicker or it's going to roll over, l can handle that, cos it won't. In fact l have very even tyre wear, the measurement from the centre of the wheel to the ground is the same all round cos of the extra weight on the front. I am sure that tyre gurus will come up with a negative BUT l am now happy with my ride.

i appreciate your quick respond, the result from your experiment could be useful since confirm enjoying your ride now, i might give it a try too but considering in 2wd mode it's a rear wheel drive with that setting front harder than rear, is it stable braking at speed?, don't get me wrong i haven't try it out yet, I'm grateful thanks anyway.

[katabeachbum]

so overall what do you guys recommend for my hilux vigo 4x4 265/70 r16 tyres? or should i just stick to the 29 psi all round as on the door sill? or do you mean that's a crucial mistake by Toyota?

I'v been here before, another thread, my 2007 Vigo 4x4 auto, same tyres, is/was heavy on the steering so l did some testing and came up with 29 rear 35 front. Perfect FOR ME, l say again perfect for ME. Don't care if they wear out a bit quicker or it's going to roll over, l can handle that, cos it won't. In fact l have very even tyre wear, the measurement from the centre of the wheel to the ground is the same all round cos of the extra weight on the front. I am sure that tyre gurus will come up with a negative BUT l am now happy with my ride.

transam and I have discussed this previously. I prefere 29/29 for handling and even wear, loaded 500 kg or unloaded. my 2006 Vigo needed new 16" at 80-90k km. my present 2010 runs 17" at 29/29, but only 9k km so far. 2010 has lighter steering.

more than 70% is highway at 140-160 kmh

[fredob43]

so overall what do you guys recommend for my hilux vigo 4x4 265/70 r16 tyres? or should i just stick to the 29 psi all round as on the door sill? or do you mean that's a crucial mistake by Toyota?

I'v been here before, another thread, my 2007 Vigo 4x4 auto, same tyres, is/was heavy on the steering so l did some testing and came up with 29 rear 35 front. Perfect FOR ME, l say again perfect for ME. Don't care if they wear out a bit quicker or it's going to roll over, l can handle that, cos it won't. In fact l have very even tyre wear, the measurement from the centre of the wheel to the ground is the same all round cos of the extra weight on the front. I am sure that tyre gurus will come up with a negative BUT l am now happy with my ride.

transam and I have discussed this previously. I prefere 29/29 for handling and even wear, loaded 500 kg or unloaded. my 2006 Vigo needed new 16" at 80-90k km. my present 2010 runs 17" at 29/29, but only 9k km so far. 2010 has lighter steering.

more than 70% is highway at 140-160 kmh

Like wise when I had my vigo. Tried lot's of combination's, but went back to 29/29. found the ride better. At one time tried 35psi rear. Bloody thing jumped adout all over the place. I also found the the rear axle, seemed to move about a bit. Have seen some fitted with shock. Dose any one know if it work's. Just curious, nice to know.

[katabeachbum]

I also found the the rear axle, seemed to move about a bit. Have seen some fitted with shock. Dose any one know if it work's. Just curious, nice to know.

Rear axle can be stabilized all directions, but reduces off road abilities.

My 1993 Range Rover didint even have equal long coilsprings L/R side, to improve off road. both front and rear axle where floating. still impressing on autobahn at 200 kmh and extreme offroad

[katabeachbum]

so overall what do you guys recommend for my hilux vigo 4x4 265/70 r16 tyres? or should i just stick to the 29 psi all round as on the door sill? or do you mean that's a crucial mistake by Toyota?

No not a mistake by Toyota, their 29/29 is what they have decided on with their tests to cover all eventualities for mr and mrs average driver for safety tyre wear etc. As K has pointed out on the 2010 model they have lightened the steering so it would seem they new the steering 'could' have been lighter especially with the extra weight of the 4x4/auto mechanicals up front.

dont know if they have changed the servo ratio or the new roadbiased 17" just steer lighter. they have changed the rear springs to more comfy ride.

when my car dealership sold US Chrysler Town and Country, Plymouth Grand Voyager, and Dodge Grand Caravan, we also sold Europe made Chrysler Grand Voyager. US had 19:1 steering , Euro had 17:1. Us steering much better, but europe still wants steering to be heavy.

Identical looking vehicles can be very different spec adapted to local requirements

[Tanaka]

I hope Warpspeed is securily strapped to his high horse or it will be a long and hard fall when he eventually drops. In his condescendent way telling us that he knows everything about tyres and their pressures in different applications he is nevertheless wrong. Despite his claim that he was not talking about racing, he was. Just read the posts.

The manufacturers use track experience to find better material to use, not to experience different pressures or drive patterns for the road. That is done in other environments. Should be obvious for anyone with a slight technical mind.

Furthermore, in racing you use tyres different to road tyres. Only in some standard car classes you are not allowed to use racing tyres. But also with these, there are great differences not least in sizes, that need to be considered. Comparing how to make a tyre with a 70- profile for a 4x4 pickup work best is not the same as a 4-door sedan with 50- or even 40- profile.

And Warps statement that bigger tyres cool off quicker than smaller is utter bs. Check in on a truck stop and one unit that have been standing a while after a long haul. According to the self-appointed Mr Expertoneverything its tyres should be cool. You find out if he is right. Then compare to your or your neighbour's tyres a while after coming home. Tyres should of course not be in the sun.

Oh, I have been racing motorcycles and sidecars some 40 years.

As for OP's questioin, air should not leak out, not noticeably. If you need to top up every 4 or 5 months, ok. If shorter intervals, something is not in order. If you have alloy rims, try pumping to max pressure, then apply a mix of soap and water on the surface of the rims. Better still if you can find a tyre shop with a tank to descend the wheel into and check for air bubbles. There is a slight chance that the alloy has pores. One post mentioned steel rims. If they are corroded on the inside bed where the tyres rests, air is likely to evaporate. This surface must be smooth and clean. If you put new tyre valves in you know they should not be the cause and they should not be on a new(ish) car.

Edited April 27, 2010 by Tanaka

[powderpuff]

Is your slushbox pinking yet?

[stingray]

if they are alloys ,maybe gone poruse,

At the side of the rims (wall) it would be possible sometime. Haveto put the wheel in the water to see, where the bubbeling come from. Never had problem with cars, but allways had problems with the Mountainbike bysicle, even with new tires and tubes. Finally it drive me mad, give it a way to some Thaifriends for free. Couln't see that dam thing anymore.

[jkinbkk]

Would tyre sealant work, & is it available here?  Needed to replace tyres on my mower & tyre shop didn't have a clue what I meant by sealant (as translated by my wife, who also wasn't too clear what I meant)

Yes, Tyre Sealant works and is available through this industrial tyre solution company.

I have had this sealant in my Fortuna for 18 months and only needed to slightly top up the air twice.

I have also dug out 3 screws that had been stuck in the tread area over this 18 month period with no air loss.

www.pneumech.net

Look under the 'Puncture Proof' tab on the site

[powderpuff]

That was jingthang trying to get in.

[powderpuff]

My motorcycle doesn't lose 5 pounds a week; it loses zero pounds a week. Ditto my mighty Isuzu.

I laugh when I see these little weenies in their Fortuners. I always think to myself.

dam_n dude next time try & buy a bigger car. I call em boats. Do you have a little Army of servants to help you parallel park?

[katabeachbum]

all my bikes loose airpressure, even the tubeless ones. I belive its the surface of the Enkei mags made in LOS

but on the other hand I belive my car and pickups all have had Enkei mags to, and none of them loose airpressure

[Sisaketmike]

In Australia there was a fad of filling tires with nitrogen as it is not supposed to leak through the tyre itself, they claimed you lost air this way. Maybe it was just a way to make extra money, I don't know for sure.

Please keep it as a secret. The air goes up in the air. Could reach the Stratosphere too.

[Sisaketmike]

My motorcycle doesn't lose 5 pounds a week; it loses zero pounds a week. Ditto my mighty Isuzu.

I laugh when I see these little weenies in their Fortuners. I always think to myself.

dam_n dude next time try & buy a bigger car. I call em boats. Do you have a little Army of servants to help you parallel park?

Why, what's wrong with them? They're all sitting on three pillows and are just trying to drive. Your post really made me laugh powderpuff. Stay well. Those Fortu......lol

[Sisaketmike]

all my bikes loose airpressure, even the tubeless ones. I belive its the surface of the Enkei mags made in LOS

but on the other hand I belive my car and pickups all have had Enkei mags to, and none of them loose airpressure

There's only one way. Make a merit for your tires. It won't happen again afterwards, depending on the right ceremony.

Some poeple have got other problems, like not enough Somtham in their stomach...