Setup Catfish Farm In Cement Bloks, Any Advice?

[travelguy1]

Hello there.

I want to setup a catfish farm.

I was thinking about 10 ponds from making cement bloks.

I want to put in a tank size about 2000 fish ,and the size wil be 6 m long and 5 meter.

I u gon to use fresh water from the ground ,with a pump 1 hp.

What do you thinking when i dont filter the water,wy i gon a make a sustem that the water flow over.

That mean i have continue fresh water in the pond.

Can you give me some information how your people that doing

Greetsd jan

[wandrinstar]

Just give them the Money n Leave.

[sezze]

Good advice from Wandrinstar ...

To be honest , what do you or the family know about fish ? You can try this thing and ask us what went wrong . I do not know a lot but looking at everything it looks like you never tried anything like it . Cement blocks by itself are not strong and probably each on it's own ,even when build strong ,is pretty small so you will have problems ( smaller ponds bigger problems ) . I do not know anything about fish so you do not have to believe me . I'm in a learning proces myself tryingdifferent things but i only told you what i know ( or believe to know ... i can be wrong , however i never saw a system like the 1 you mentioned ) .

[glomp]

Google and search this and other forums for intensive fish farming.

Margins are low so volumes of fish delivered has to be high. A fetish for recording

data and writing down every bath spent seems to be required for proper money management.

[WatersEdge]

Having tight control over water conditions is always a good thing.

although it is much more expensive at every step

resulting in a much higher return on a small area.

There are indeed people who grow fish very intensively in tanks,

I want to say they push 30 kg/m2 surface area

versus 2 to 3 kg in natural ponds without aeration or water replacement

although it requires heavy aeration that may never shut off.

A power outage means your fish are dead

so you must have backup aeration power

I'd suggest round tanks instead of rectangular,

with steep cone bottom to concentrate waste solids at one removal point

4 meters deep to accommodate

Catfish in deep water and

Tilapia in shallow

Since they have different habits the two fish complement each other.

In an intensive system you have to aerate and exchange / filter anyway,

so it's OK to go deep

Let's look at your parameters.

10 Concrete Tanks

5x6 meter

30 m2 each

300 m2 total

If not round, could they at least be square?

or is the size established from a present building?

1 hp Pump from Well

How deep is the pumping level of the well?

What maximum continual water volume will it sustain?

For Aeration, there are several equipment types.

Surface splash paddles

Roots Blower Air Pump

For deep water I'd go with the Roots Blower,

because you can inject water bubbles at the very bottom,

Where air dissolves in water faster at high pressure,

and it has the time in contact with water all the way to the surface.

It also has the effect of lifting low water to the surface.

An interesting biological aeration technique I heard in recent months

A large slow rpm propeller in the bottom of the tank to gently push bottom water upward.

The physical rotation of the whole body of water only during bright sunlight hours

encourages the algae near the surface to create more oxygen and convert more nutrients to food

Algae work with conditions in their immediate vicinity.

They will remain only in the water penetrated by sunlight

If they have consumed all the nutrients in their zone, they can't do more.

If enriched water is continually coming to them, they can do much more.

The entire depth of the water is thereby oxygenated during the daytime,

providing banked oxygen reserves to carry though the night.

For water exchange,

it depends whether you intend to filter and return,

or dump water to the field off the far end.

I would connect all ten tanks in series,

with the fresh water coming in Tank 1 where the smallest fish are raised.

Then with an airtight siphon tube,

of the correct size to maintain a fast water velocity,

pull water and waste solids from the bottom of the cone,

into the next tank

And so forth 2, 3....9, 10

Finally dumping water out of Tank 10

A small elevation difference between tanks is necessary,

0.05 m (2") should be sufficient

The water exiting Tank 10 will be good for growing most anything you put it on.

If you run 300 m2 of total tank area,

with a load of 30 kg/m2

You will have 9,000 kg in the water at any given time.

If the fish on the average double in weight every month,

then that's what you will produce each month.

Whatever our tank dimensions,

you will need a good way to pump individual tanks down

to work with the fish in that tank,

moving them down to the next tank

I'll pause here, as the details become endless.

With intensive fish growing,

the problems also become intensive.

There is a very good reason that there are two competing schools of thought

Intensive High Density

Low Density

Both can tell you the weakness of the other

and both are correct.

[RedBullHorn]

TG1,

after you answer my question in our PM, i'll decide then on how best i should translate a work plan regarding your concrete ponds set up...

[travelguy1]

TG1,

after you answer my question in our PM, i'll decide then on how best i should translate a work plan regarding your concrete ponds set up...

Yes mister i ansver your question alrady on PM.

And about WANDRINDSTAR, thats again some tipecal reaction from some farang without no fighting experince,and no leadership .

[travelguy1]

Having tight control over water conditions is always a good thing.

although it is much more expensive at every step

resulting in a much higher return on a small area.

There are indeed people who grow fish very intensively in tanks,

I want to say they push 30 kg/m2 surface area

versus 2 to 3 kg in natural ponds without aeration or water replacement

although it requires heavy aeration that may never shut off.

A power outage means your fish are dead

so you must have backup aeration power

I'd suggest round tanks instead of rectangular,

with steep cone bottom to concentrate waste solids at one removal point

4 meters deep to accommodate

Catfish in deep water and

Tilapia in shallow

Since they have different habits the two fish complement each other.

In an intensive system you have to aerate and exchange / filter anyway,

so it's OK to go deep

Let's look at your parameters.

10 Concrete Tanks

5x6 meter

30 m2 each

300 m2 total

If not round, could they at least be square?

or is the size established from a present building?

1 hp Pump from Well

How deep is the pumping level of the well?

What maximum continual water volume will it sustain?

For Aeration, there are several equipment types.

Surface splash paddles

Roots Blower Air Pump

For deep water I'd go with the Roots Blower,

because you can inject water bubbles at the very bottom,

Where air dissolves in water faster at high pressure,

and it has the time in contact with water all the way to the surface.

It also has the effect of lifting low water to the surface.

An interesting biological aeration technique I heard in recent months

A large slow rpm propeller in the bottom of the tank to gently push bottom water upward.

The physical rotation of the whole body of water only during bright sunlight hours

encourages the algae near the surface to create more oxygen and convert more nutrients to food

Algae work with conditions in their immediate vicinity.

They will remain only in the water penetrated by sunlight

If they have consumed all the nutrients in their zone, they can't do more.

If enriched water is continually coming to them, they can do much more.

The entire depth of the water is thereby oxygenated during the daytime,

providing banked oxygen reserves to carry though the night.

For water exchange,

it depends whether you intend to filter and return,

or dump water to the field off the far end.

I would connect all ten tanks in series,

with the fresh water coming in Tank 1 where the smallest fish are raised.

Then with an airtight siphon tube,

of the correct size to maintain a fast water velocity,

pull water and waste solids from the bottom of the cone,

into the next tank

And so forth 2, 3....9, 10

Finally dumping water out of Tank 10

A small elevation difference between tanks is necessary,

0.05 m (2") should be sufficient

The water exiting Tank 10 will be good for growing most anything you put it on.

If you run 300 m2 of total tank area,

with a load of 30 kg/m2

You will have 9,000 kg in the water at any given time.

If the fish on the average double in weight every month,

then that's what you will produce each month.

Whatever our tank dimensions,

you will need a good way to pump individual tanks down

to work with the fish in that tank,

moving them down to the next tank

I'll pause here, as the details become endless.

With intensive fish growing,

the problems also become intensive.

There is a very good reason that there are two competing schools of thought

Intensive High Density

Low Density

Both can tell you the weakness of the other

and both are correct.

This its a nice post mister,its make me thinking.

But here i have some picture from sombody on this forum and he do that the same way wat i want to do.catfish farm.bmp

That i must work with a pump i onderstand i wil make than 1 extra pond fore water filter with hte same size,and yes al ponds wil be conect to the filter pond.

But fore the catfish ,what i write on som forums its alrady oke with a water level 1m25.

But thanks fore the posting i wil folow you.

[RedBullHorn]

Ok...lets begin...

In this introduction i will try my best to illustrate how best you should set up all your concrete or if you decide to use big round plastic tubs to facilitate your pladuk farm.

The tanks

A concrete block will measure 40cm x 20cm x 2'' thick, build them rectangular is preferred to square as Clarias catfishes love to swim the lap. You should consider the dimension of 3m x 5m x 1.2m for 2000 fishes, once you build them up to 3 blocks high, instruct your builder to lay and fasten a few 6-8mm "FULL" grade metal rod cables, lay 2 rod cables side by side "on" the blocks, fasten them end to end, then layer them with cement to strengthen the wall and prevent the tank walls from collapse (the metal rod cable is 6m long and have 3 grades...light, medium and full grades, available in all construction materials shop, Thais call it " Lek sen sarm hun tamp"), then continue to lay the concrete block up to the 6 level, again, another few rod cables are fasten and lay 2 rod cable side by side and cemented.

The walls will need to be smoothen on the inner side with "solvent type" cement ( "Super" brand 40kg pack cement) and apply a layer to the floor once the normal cement layer on the floor are ready harden and dry, as for the outer wall just a nice normal thick layer to prevent sipage and cracks will do ( "eagle" or "Nok" brand will do the job, just the normal 50kg pack cemet), Your builder usually will know all this but just to equit you with the knowlegde so you can spot any irregularity. Floor need to be tilled from high to low and lowest at an area near 1 corner for water drainage, highest point to lower point different by 2cm, lower to lowest point (drainage) is different by another 2cm

Use 3'' PVC pipes as drainage outlet, cement a right angle or 45'' angle joint to floor just like your bathroom floor drainage hole, buy 1m of 5mm hexagon holes shape rubber mesh ( there're 2 type- the squarish or hexagon hole type rubber mesh) from the construction material shop, cut a small lengh and crumble it into a ball and squeeze it into the 3'' outlet joint, sqeeze in just enought so the the mesh ball is just below the edge level where the standing pipe and the joint meet. So when you do water change, you just pull up the standing pipe, water gash out and will be empty of water in less than 5 minutes (you don't want to wait hours to get rid of the water in the tank with a fuc_king 3/4'' PVC pipe, it's a waste of time) And with the rubber mesh in place, your fingerling or adult fishes can't escape. With the layers for the metal rods in place, the hight of your tank should be about 1.3m high, fill water to 90cm and leave about 40cm to prevent fishes from jumping out.

The water flow system tank

As mention by WatersEdge, is by far, the best system i've come across. If your well don't ever dry up and water is clean and cool... and your extended family don't complain on the shocking eletricity bill (compare to what they're used to pay ) I will show you a video clip from Malaysia catfishes farm later and another clip on the company's intensive farming of 17-18'000 fishes in a 3 diameters PVC tub tank with the water flow system (no filter, because it will be more expensive and catfishes shit big time, the filter can't cope with it ). You will love it

You can co-operate this system to the above tank layout, all it takes are two extra holes, 1 on top and 1 near the lowest drainage point.

Please buy a small petroleum generator for electricity during emergency, 9 Amp will do, cost about 5-6'000 THB, like what i have below, the blue generator next to white sack...

My Catfish farm operations

The big round tub tank

The round tubs are good if you decide to move your operations to another venue or places...Or sell them second hand to recover some money if you decide to close shop. They are very durable but expensive, cost about 3'800 THB each.

The video clip

This are some of my research materials long ago, you can go to the website and go through some other video for reference as some new videos are always uploaded.

(Btw...to embed video just won't work on this new TV layout, it use to be easy with all the video i embedded on the old TV...

Moderators pls take note )

Edited September 6, 2010 by RedBullHorn

[RedBullHorn]

Oh...1 more thing, if you're planning on the water flow system you do not need aeration for catfishes, Clarias catfishes breath air and can survive with very little water, they just need water to moisturise their skin and they will die if under sunlight. If you see the fish section in a local market, you will see fish retailers only put in just enough water into the tub of catfish just to keep their skin moist and out of direct sunlight.

And if you're not planning the above mention system, you do not need aeration either, just do your schduled water change as committed.

Don't bother trying to figure out a way to do a filtration system, it can't cope with the big amount of shits because catfishes have very big appetite. You will end up paying more money to maintain the filter than making the good profit from the sales of your fishes.

Edited September 6, 2010 by RedBullHorn

[travelguy1]

Ok...lets begin...

In this introduction i will try my best to illustrate how best you should set up all your concrete or if you decide to use big round plastic tubs to facilitate your pladuk farm.

The tanks

A concrete block will measure 40cm x 20cm x 2'' thick, build them rectangular is preferred to square as Clarias catfishes love to swim the lap. You should consider the dimension of 3m x 5m x 1.2m for 2000 fishes, once you build them up to 3 blocks high, instruct your builder to lay and fasten a few 6-8mm "FULL" grade metal rod cables, lay 2 rod cables side by side "on" the blocks, fasten them end to end, then layer them with cement to strengthen the wall and prevent the tank walls from collapse (the metal rod cable is 6m long and have 3 grades...light, medium and full grades, available in all construction materials shop, Thais call it " Lek sen sarm hun tamp"), then continue to lay the concrete block up to the 6 level, again, another few rod cables are fasten and lay 2 rod cable side by side and cemented.

The walls will need to be smoothen on the inner side with "solvent type" cement ( "Super" brand 40kg pack cement) and apply a layer to the floor once the normal cement layer on the floor are ready harden and dry, as for the outer wall just a nice normal thick layer to prevent sipage and cracks will do ( "eagle" or "Nok" brand will do the job, just the normal 50kg pack cemet), Your builder usually will know all this but just to equit you with the knowlegde so you can spot any irregularity. Floor need to be tilled from high to low and lowest at an area near 1 corner for water drainage, highest point to lower point different by 2cm, lower to lowest point (drainage) is different by another 2cm

Use 3'' PVC pipes as drainage outlet, cement a right angle or 45'' angle joint to floor just like your bathroom floor drainage hole, buy 1m of 5mm hexagon holes shape rubber mesh ( there're 2 type- the squarish or hexagon hole type rubber mesh) from the construction material shop, cut a small lengh and crumble it into a ball and squeeze it into the 3'' outlet joint, sqeeze in just enought so the the mesh ball is just below the edge level where the standing pipe and the joint meet. So when you do water change, you just pull up the standing pipe, water gash out and will be empty of water in less than 5 minutes (you don't want to wait hours to get rid of the water in the tank with a fuc_king 3/4'' PVC pipe, it's a waste of time) And with the rubber mesh in place, your fingerling or adult fishes can't escape. With the layers for the metal rods in place, the hight of your tank should be about 1.3m high, fill water to 90cm and leave about 40cm to prevent fishes from jumping out.

The water flow system tank

As mention by WatersEdge, is by far, the best system i've come across. If your well don't ever dry up and water is clean and cool... and your extended family don't complain on the shocking eletricity bill (compare to what they're used to pay ) I will show you a video clip from Malaysia catfishes farm later and another clip on the company's intensive farming of 17-18'000 fishes in a 3 diameters PVC tub tank with the water flow system (no filter, because it will be more expensive and catfishes shit big time, the filter can't cope with it ). You will love it

You can co-operate this system to the above tank layout, all it takes are two extra holes, 1 on top and 1 near the lowest drainage point.

Please buy a small petroleum generator for electricity during emergency, 9 Amp will do, cost about 5-6'000 THB, like what i have below, the blue generator next to white sack...

My Catfish farm operations

The big round tub tank

The round tubs are good if you decide to move your operations to another venue or places...Or sell them second hand to recover some money if you decide to close shop. They are very durable but expensive, cost about 3'800 THB each.

The video clip

This are some of my research materials long ago, you can go to the website and go through some other video for reference as some new videos are always uploaded.

(Btw...to embed video just won't work on this new TV layout, it use to be easy with all the video i embedded on the old TV...

Moderators pls take note )

Oke thank you redbullhorn .

Here i can do somthink with the post.

I wil send you a another pm fore my quistens.

[RedBullHorn]

and remember what i said, everyone including me gone through the stages doing the learning curve, don't rush into something you don't fully understand and have no hands-on experience. One step at a time, one pond at a time.

Edited September 6, 2010 by RedBullHorn

[mellow1]

Oh...1 more thing, if you're planning on the water flow system you do not need aeration for catfishes, Clarias catfishes breath air and can survive with very little water, they just need water to moisturise their skin and they will die if under sunlight. If you see the fish section in a local market, you will see fish retailers only put in just enough water into the tub of catfish just to keep their skin moist and out of direct sunlight.

And if you're not planning the above mention system, you do not need aeration either, just do your schduled water change as committed.

Don't bother trying to figure out a way to do a filtration system, it can't cope with the big amount of shits because catfishes have very big appetite. You will end up paying more money to maintain the filter than making the good profit from the sales of your fishes.

First of all, I would like to say that following RBH's instructions will benefit the OP, or anyone else for that matter. I know he has helped me out a number of times, for which I am grateful.

We are also running a recirculating system, along with just regular tanks. We have modified the filtration system tanks to be primarely a series of settling tanks, although we use some media. This is the only way that we can grow out large numbers of fish quickly in a small area. It needs daily work with water changes of 30 to 40%. Plus it's expensive to built. But for us it's all starting to work out.

[RedBullHorn]

My pleasure TG1 and Mellow1, thanks for your kind words and trust everything are well with your business....Up north, we're getting 41 THB/kg now, what's your area's farmgate price like?

[mellow1]

My pleasure TG1 and Mellow1, thanks for your kind words and trust everything are well with your business....Up north, we're getting 41 THB/kg now, what's your area's farmgate price like?

Still 40THB.

[travelguy1]

and remember what i said, everyone including me gone through the stages doing the learning curve, don't rush into something you don't fully understand and have no hands-on experience. One step at a time, one pond at a time.

Thanks to all here, fore the info.

Fore me its it clearly that i better start small ,and i wil see whats going on in the pond.

I think when i write here the info, that its not easy to care fish.

Its better i stay with my mushrooms thogeter.

[RedBullHorn]

Care for fishes are easy...just the learning part that's difficult

[irjus]

The big round tub tank, were can i buy some?

Edited September 23, 2010 by irjus

[RedBullHorn]

I only know where to buy them in Chiang Rai...

[irjus]

ok, im in ubon, going to try to find them here

[wagner54]

ok, im in ubon, going to try to find them here

Irjus

Try Ubonwasadu ( I'm not sure if I spelled it correctly ), I think I seen some big tubs there. Good luck.

[RedBullHorn]

the price of the tub i quoted may varie from province to province, they usually mark the prices up to let you negotiate, you could knock it down by a discount of 2-300 THB...my neighbour managed to negotiate a 380 THB discount just on the big tub alone

( as she bought a few other sizes tubs too...the more you buy the more they don't want to pass you off. )

[irjus]

ok, thanks

[grimleybob]

Having tight control over water conditions is always a good thing.

although it is much more expensive at every step

resulting in a much higher return on a small area.

There are indeed people who grow fish very intensively in tanks,

I want to say they push 30 kg/m2 surface area

versus 2 to 3 kg in natural ponds without aeration or water replacement

although it requires heavy aeration that may never shut off.

A power outage means your fish are dead

so you must have backup aeration power

I'd suggest round tanks instead of rectangular,

with steep cone bottom to concentrate waste solids at one removal point

4 meters deep to accommodate

Catfish in deep water and

Tilapia in shallow

Since they have different habits the two fish complement each other.

In an intensive system you have to aerate and exchange / filter anyway,

so it's OK to go deep

Let's look at your parameters.

10 Concrete Tanks

5x6 meter

30 m2 each

300 m2 total

If not round, could they at least be square?

or is the size established from a present building?

1 hp Pump from Well

How deep is the pumping level of the well?

What maximum continual water volume will it sustain?

For Aeration, there are several equipment types.

Surface splash paddles

Roots Blower Air Pump

For deep water I'd go with the Roots Blower,

because you can inject water bubbles at the very bottom,

Where air dissolves in water faster at high pressure,

and it has the time in contact with water all the way to the surface.

It also has the effect of lifting low water to the surface.

An interesting biological aeration technique I heard in recent months

A large slow rpm propeller in the bottom of the tank to gently push bottom water upward.

The physical rotation of the whole body of water only during bright sunlight hours

encourages the algae near the surface to create more oxygen and convert more nutrients to food

Algae work with conditions in their immediate vicinity.

They will remain only in the water penetrated by sunlight

If they have consumed all the nutrients in their zone, they can't do more.

If enriched water is continually coming to them, they can do much more.

The entire depth of the water is thereby oxygenated during the daytime,

providing banked oxygen reserves to carry though the night.

For water exchange,

it depends whether you intend to filter and return,

or dump water to the field off the far end.

I would connect all ten tanks in series,

with the fresh water coming in Tank 1 where the smallest fish are raised.

Then with an airtight siphon tube,

of the correct size to maintain a fast water velocity,

pull water and waste solids from the bottom of the cone,

into the next tank

And so forth 2, 3....9, 10

Finally dumping water out of Tank 10

A small elevation difference between tanks is necessary,

0.05 m (2") should be sufficient

The water exiting Tank 10 will be good for growing most anything you put it on.

If you run 300 m2 of total tank area,

with a load of 30 kg/m2

You will have 9,000 kg in the water at any given time.

If the fish on the average double in weight every month,

then that's what you will produce each month.

Whatever our tank dimensions,

you will need a good way to pump individual tanks down

to work with the fish in that tank,

moving them down to the next tank

I'll pause here, as the details become endless.

With intensive fish growing,

the problems also become intensive.

There is a very good reason that there are two competing schools of thought

Intensive High Density

Low Density

Both can tell you the weakness of the other

and both are correct.

The most cost effective and innovative way would be an aquaponics system where a series

of filter beds made up of a growing medium with worms added to recycle the water backinto

the ponds. you grow crops in the filterbeds

The crops grow at an amazing rate due to high nutrients. A higher fish to pond ratio can be used in this system

Check it out on google

bob

[englishjack]

Ok...lets begin...

In this introduction i will try my best to illustrate how best you should set up all your concrete or if you decide to use big round plastic tubs to facilitate your pladuk farm.

The tanks

A concrete block will measure 40cm x 20cm x 2'' thick, build them rectangular is preferred to square as Clarias catfishes love to swim the lap. You should consider the dimension of 3m x 5m x 1.2m for 2000 fishes, once you build them up to 3 blocks high, instruct your builder to lay and fasten a few 6-8mm "FULL" grade metal rod cables, lay 2 rod cables side by side "on" the blocks, fasten them end to end, then layer them with cement to strengthen the wall and prevent the tank walls from collapse (the metal rod cable is 6m long and have 3 grades...light, medium and full grades, available in all construction materials shop, Thais call it " Lek sen sarm hun tamp"), then continue to lay the concrete block up to the 6 level, again, another few rod cables are fasten and lay 2 rod cable side by side and cemented.

The walls will need to be smoothen on the inner side with "solvent type" cement ( "Super" brand 40kg pack cement) and apply a layer to the floor once the normal cement layer on the floor are ready harden and dry, as for the outer wall just a nice normal thick layer to prevent sipage and cracks will do ( "eagle" or "Nok" brand will do the job, just the normal 50kg pack cemet), Your builder usually will know all this but just to equit you with the knowlegde so you can spot any irregularity. Floor need to be tilled from high to low and lowest at an area near 1 corner for water drainage, highest point to lower point different by 2cm, lower to lowest point (drainage) is different by another 2cm

Use 3'' PVC pipes as drainage outlet, cement a right angle or 45'' angle joint to floor just like your bathroom floor drainage hole, buy 1m of 5mm hexagon holes shape rubber mesh ( there're 2 type- the squarish or hexagon hole type rubber mesh) from the construction material shop, cut a small lengh and crumble it into a ball and squeeze it into the 3'' outlet joint, sqeeze in just enought so the the mesh ball is just below the edge level where the standing pipe and the joint meet. So when you do water change, you just pull up the standing pipe, water gash out and will be empty of water in less than 5 minutes (you don't want to wait hours to get rid of the water in the tank with a fuc_king 3/4'' PVC pipe, it's a waste of time) And with the rubber mesh in place, your fingerling or adult fishes can't escape. With the layers for the metal rods in place, the hight of your tank should be about 1.3m high, fill water to 90cm and leave about 40cm to prevent fishes from jumping out.

The water flow system tank

As mention by WatersEdge, is by far, the best system i've come across. If your well don't ever dry up and water is clean and cool... and your extended family don't complain on the shocking eletricity bill (compare to what they're used to pay ) I will show you a video clip from Malaysia catfishes farm later and another clip on the company's intensive farming of 17-18'000 fishes in a 3 diameters PVC tub tank with the water flow system (no filter, because it will be more expensive and catfishes shit big time, the filter can't cope with it ). You will love it

You can co-operate this system to the above tank layout, all it takes are two extra holes, 1 on top and 1 near the lowest drainage point.

Please buy a small petroleum generator for electricity during emergency, 9 Amp will do, cost about 5-6'000 THB, like what i have below, the blue generator next to white sack...

My Catfish farm operations

The big round tub tank

The round tubs are good if you decide to move your operations to another venue or places...Or sell them second hand to recover some money if you decide to close shop. They are very durable but expensive, cost about 3'800 THB each.

The video clip

This are some of my research materials long ago, you can go to the website and go through some other video for reference as some new videos are always uploaded.

(Btw...to embed video just won't work on this new TV layout, it use to be easy with all the video i embedded on the old TV...

Moderators pls take note )

Oke thank you redbullhorn .

Here i can do somthink with the post.

I wil send you a another pm fore my quistens.

[englishjack]

hi rbh i am new to this forum i was wondering how much the plastic tub set up would cost thinking of buying it for the father inlaw and is their a company that will come and set it all up and can u use mains water for it