New To Chiang Mai -- Where To Live?

[Nobelcat]

I've spent 2 months exploring Thailand in the last year and I'm finally making the move to Thailand. I've decided I like Chiang Mai the most. But what I don't know, is where I should live, how long I should sign a lease for, and what kinds of issues I'm going to get caught up in.

1) I was thinking I should be within about 10km of City Center, but I'm just saying that because I happened to know City Center. I haven't explored much else, so I don't know if the areas up north (25km or so out) with the golf corses and other things are really, really nice. I don't play golf, don't ever plan to, and would rather just sit in my house all day doing my job. Can people recommend areas?

2) I thought I would get an apartment of some kind, but then I visited some people who had couch roach issues on the 13th floor and they said management wouldn't pay to fix any issues and because the issues are so wide spread, it's not worth trying to fix yourself. As a result, I am now thinking of a single story house somewhere that if there are issues, I can deal with them myself or hire someone. Anyone with feedback on this?

3) Most places I'm able to research online are 12 month leases. I know if I go door to door looking for places to rent, I'll be able to get a better rate and any term I want, but would people consider 12 month leases to be normal?

4) In any lease, I've been told that sometimes in addition to rent you would also need to pay property taxes and other fees. Any other lease issues people have run into that caught them by surprise after signing them? Or anything else people are aware of that I should watch out for?

5) Anything else people want to suggest.

My biggest question though is #1. I'm looking right now about 5km or so south of the airport as my favorite area. There are some great houses there (I rote a bicycle around for 4 hours in some of those areas without getting run over... nice properties, nice roads, etc). Some places are part of the normal community and others are part of private communities. Maybe someone has some feelings about being part of a closed community or not.

Thanks!

[WinnieTheKhwai]

I think it makes sense to start in town as it's convenient. Once you get settled you could move further out with a car, bigger house, garden, etc.

[Nobelcat]

I'll likely spend the first month living in a hotel at about 15,000 baht per month including breakfast. I'm just trying to figure out what areas I should look at after that. I'm fairly familiar with Chiang Mai, but can't seem to pick one Moo Baan over another. Fresh markets are almost everywhere so I don't think I'll need to pick a neighborhood based on shopping. There are plenty of Big C's and Tesco's so always seems to be one close enough for when I need western food.

[kaptainrob]

Ban Wangtan is tucked in off Hang Dong Rd, 3km SSE of CNX, almost behind Makro. Map: http://wikimapia.org/#lat=18.7310666&lon=98.9684912&z=16&l=0&m=b

It's a large leafy development with many rentals in section 5 from ~ 8k p/m up. Average for a nice 2 or 3 bed single story on small plot is ~ 12k. Best to drive around and look for rental signs on gates. Took me 6 weeks before we found a suitable spacious house with BIG kitchen.

Lease normally ~12months although some landlords will negotiate. You pay water, security and power on top of rent, say 1,500 baht p/m.

PM if you want more info.

[CMX]

Basically, there are no 'special' places around that have everything for next to nothing in price.

The housing (house) lease market is good for renters and has been so for years. You might wish to avoid areas that flooded last year.

It took me six months in temporary quarters, from which I explored on a rented motorbike, to determine a region of interest and a place to lease that suited me. From this home, I now look around town for further improvement (nothing yet, going on 3 years).

[Nobelcat]

@CMX, know of any map maybe of the flooded areas of CM? I do know to stay away from any water sources (much more though due to the mosquitoes) but I didn't think about how far that water might reach.

@kaptainrob, Thanks! Looks like an excellent area and it's next to an area I've explored before. So I know the area. I guess I'll just Tuk Tuk or scooter around.

[TommoPhysicist]

Loads of furnished condos in town for 5k a month + utils, no need to pay 15k (1 or 2 month minimum)

Baan Wangtaan is full of white people so they charge double the rental for everywhere else.

San Sai is worth a look, plenty of two or three bedroom bungalows for around the 5-8k a month price.

1 year rental is the norm for houses.

Edited August 24, 2012 by TommoPhysicist

[kaptainrob]

Loads of furnished condos in town for 5k a month + utils, no need to pay 15k (1 or 2 month minimum)

Baan Wangtaan is full of white people so they charge double the rental for everywhere else.

San Sai is worth a look, plenty of two or three bedroom bungalows for around the 5-8k a month price.

1 year rental is the norm for houses.

5k for a condo doesn't buy more than a studio room. We had a beaut new FF x 1 bed/lounge/kitchen/cableTV/internet place in Suan Dok, a bit small but ok short term, @ 10k.

I'll agree that some landlords try to hike rents in Ban Wangtan. One dark, airless, poorly furnished place we looked at was asking 15k.... I see a Thai family in there now!

We got our spacious, breezy house with HUGE western kitchen @ 10k.

[eyecatcher]

Ban Wangtan is tucked in off Hang Dong Rd, 3km SSE of CNX, almost behind Makro. Map: http://wikimapia.org...12&z=16&l=0&m=b

It's a large leafy development with many rentals in section 5 from ~ 8k p/m up. Average for a nice 2 or 3 bed single story on small plot is ~ 12k. Best to drive around and look for rental signs on gates. Took me 6 weeks before we found a suitable spacious house with BIG kitchen.

Lease normally ~12months although some landlords will negotiate. You pay water, security and power on top of rent, say 1,500 baht p/m.

PM if you want more info.

My sister in law and her family recently took on a rental in "view suay" there, 3 bed detached and paying less than 4k a month., which for them is fantastic.

However it is a rather dated estate, the usual gradual deterioration and lack of upkeep.

I would say your "leafy" estate agent talk in reality could mean overgrown.

For me, and farang requiring or used to a better standard, whilst the old moo barns offer good value, the surroundings I think would put most of us off.

But I am just picking on one estate here, and I am sure Rob, you have found something perfect for you in the environs.

[hml367]

Ban Wangtan is tucked in off Hang Dong Rd, 3km SSE of CNX, almost behind Makro. Map: http://wikimapia.org...12&z=16&l=0&m=b

It's a large leafy development with many rentals in section 5 from ~ 8k p/m up. Average for a nice 2 or 3 bed single story on small plot is ~ 12k. Best to drive around and look for rental signs on gates. Took me 6 weeks before we found a suitable spacious house with BIG kitchen.

Lease normally ~12months although some landlords will negotiate. You pay water, security and power on top of rent, say 1,500 baht p/m.

PM if you want more info.

My sister in law and her family recently took on a rental in "view suay" there, 3 bed detached and paying less than 4k a month., which for them is fantastic.

However it is a rather dated estate, the usual gradual deterioration and lack of upkeep.

I would say your "leafy" estate agent talk in reality could mean overgrown.

For me, and farang requiring or used to a better standard, whilst the old moo barns offer good value, the surroundings I think would put most of us off.

But I am just picking on one estate here, and I am sure Rob, you have found something perfect for you in the environs.

2 different subdivisions.

MSPain

[sitta]

Loads of furnished condos in town for 5k a month + utils, no need to pay 15k (1 or 2 month minimum)

Baan Wangtaan is full of white people so they charge double the rental for everywhere else.

San Sai is worth a look, plenty of two or three bedroom bungalows for around the 5-8k a month price.

1 year rental is the norm for houses.

Any one has a 2 bed bungalows with garden and good kitchen for 6k in San Sai? Will sign for 1 year?

[kaptainrob]

@eyecatcher

IMHO View Suay is a dump.

BWT is not "overgrown", apart from a one or two abandoned (deceased estate?) homes. It'spossibly one of the nicest NON "concrete-jungle" moobans in Chiang Mai with its mix of acreage and small plots. Perhaps you like the Koolpuntville/Urbana/House&Land style?

We prefer established trees, loads of foliage and flowers, as per BWT soi above. There's a good mix of farangs and Thai's, owners and renters. It's not exclusively farang-land. Each to their own, eh?.

If money were NO OBJECT, Ban Nai Fan, near Night Safari on the Canal Rd, is my pick for the best of all Worlds.

[eyecatcher]

@Rob

yes it looks beautiful; and yes I wanted to say "suay view" (maybe it was once) is a dump but i didnt know if you were in there,

I will check out the other myself.....that really would be rubbing it the sister in laws nose...chai mai?

[Nobelcat]

@kaptainrob, Ban Nai Fan is near the primary area I've been looking at (Nong Khwai) so easy for me to look at those communities. The places do look very amazing but we'll see what kind of a budget and needs we have. Ban Wang Tan as well looks like it might be the right compromise between access to the airport, City Center, and some other areas that I'd like to be close to. From what I can tell, I think I'll be looking south of CIty Center then. I do like the mountains so Nong Khwai or Ban Nai Fan (or anything around Mae Hia) look great to me.

Everyone, thanks so much for the feedback. It's been so much better than I expected.

Does the CM ThaiVisa group here ever do weekly or monthly meetups? I'm involved with CouchSurfing and saw they do a weekly meetup, but I must say that the ThaiVisa community is quite a bit more active it seems

[CMX]

OP,Search our forum's listings for "Is all of Chiang Mai under water?" where somewhere around entries 9 or 10 you'll find a somewhat dated but useful beginning to the map-floods information you seek.The search function will lead you to many answers to your developing line of questions.

Edited August 24, 2012 by CMX

[hellodolly]

Strongly advise you rent a condo in or close to the old city and spend at least a month looking.

I noticed you did not say how much you were willing to spend.This would also make a difference.

I also see where you rode a bicycle. Some areas would be unsuitable if you did not have public transportation close by.

Not all areas are easy accessible by tuk tuk or songtell. (Spelling police should be along soon for songtell spelling)

I don't know what you do but from your comment of spend a day at home working I suspect you would need a good computer connection

These are not always available depends on the various services and how close you are to the tower.

You mentioned Tax's there are no property tax's in Thailand. That is part of the reason they are willing to let a home sit vacant.

Yes some apartment buildings can have cockroach problems and others termite problems. Lot's of them that is not the case. Some the upkeep of the building is not very well kept up others it is very well done.

You have indicated that it is going to be a permanent home base so give your self some time.

[LawrenceChee]

Baan Nai Fan is a nice area ...went there last night and the houses there are great looking if budget is not an issue ...they have a quiet pool and clubhouse area with a depth of 5m not common in most moo baan pools and well kept and a nice moo baan restaurant as well

I have lived in differing areas and for those like quiet ...hang dong area seems like a good balance between not being too far out to town and having a quiet moo baan to live in ...if you are willing to move further out say about 20 mins out driving there was a suggestion by one member in Samkampeng and I went and liked that area as well

If u are new , I strongly suggest I get a place on town area to explore further before commiting to a place for one year lease

It's a nice community here in CM ...welcome !

[hml367]

Strongly advise you rent a condo in or close to the old city and spend at least a month looking.

I noticed you did not say how much you were willing to spend.This would also make a difference.

I also see where you rode a bicycle. Some areas would be unsuitable if you did not have public transportation close by.

Not all areas are easy accessible by tuk tuk or songtell. (Spelling police should be along soon for songtell spelling)

I don't know what you do but from your comment of spend a day at home working I suspect you would need a good computer connection

These are not always available depends on the various services and how close you are to the tower.

You mentioned Tax's there are no property tax's in Thailand. That is part of the reason they are willing to let a home sit vacant.

Yes some apartment buildings can have cockroach problems and others termite problems. Lot's of them that is not the case. Some the upkeep of the building is not very well kept up others it is very well done.

You have indicated that it is going to be a permanent home base so give your self some time.

Dolly... this is contructive criticism. You should do a little more research before posting some things, or at least not post something as being absolute. There are property taxes in Thailand. Many, if not most, may not pay them, but the tax is there. Also, the property taxes for different kinds of properties is different or may not be taxed.

Someone from "(Spelling police should be along soon for songtell spelling)" is relatively minor to posting something that just is not true.

As I said, this is contructive criticism. I hope it would help prevent unnecessary attack as can happen here.

MSPain

Edited August 24, 2012 by hml367

[Nobelcat]

@hellodolly, money isn't my first consideration. The most expensive places I seem to find are around 30,000 baht and I can afford that though I'd rather be in the 15,000 baht per month range if I can find the right kind of place. I plan to figure it all out while living out of a hotel. But maybe I'll take your suggestion and instead of staying in a hotel just spend my time in a condo. That does seem to make a lot more sense.

@LawrenceChee, thanks for the additional suggestions.

[Priceless]

@kaptainrob, Ban Nai Fan is near the primary area I've been looking at (Nong Khwai) so easy for me to look at those communities. The places do look very amazing but we'll see what kind of a budget and needs we have. Ban Wang Tan as well looks like it might be the right compromise between access to the airport, City Center, and some other areas that I'd like to be close to. From what I can tell, I think I'll be looking south of CIty Center then. I do like the mountains so Nong Khwai or Ban Nai Fan (or anything around Mae Hia) look great to me.

Everyone, thanks so much for the feedback. It's been so much better than I expected.

Does the CM ThaiVisa group here ever do weekly or monthly meetups? I'm involved with CouchSurfing and saw they do a weekly meetup, but I must say that the ThaiVisa community is quite a bit more active it seems

Baan Nai Fun 2 (the one on Canal Road) is a terrific place, probably one of the nicest in/around Chiang Mai. However, I think you'll be hard put to find anything in there below 30,000+ THB/month. If that's within your budget, strongly recommended!

/ Priceless

[DaBloodyMess]

Does the CM ThaiVisa group here ever do weekly or monthly meetups? I'm involved with CouchSurfing and saw they do a weekly meetup, but I must say that the ThaiVisa community is quite a bit more active it seems

The couchsurfing seems inactive on the official site, but there is a facebook page for the Chiang Mai group that gets a lot of traffic... and they dont all register for the meet up every Friday night on couchsurfers. About 20 odd people will generally show up, sometimes more.

Edited August 24, 2012 by DaBloodyMess

[Thighlander]

I am a former owner at BWT. It is too far off the main road, and was dog Hell, when I ived there. Two thai rental homes were taking care of 12 soi dogs, but letting them roam at night. Things can change, but as a friend told me: "I don't think you will get burglarized, can't say the same for a dog bite." A Tourist Policeman told me the other day he had to go over there over a farang girl getting bitten by a dog. I paid 915,000 and sold for 990,000. Bought from a Thai couple, who had been transferred to Lopburi; they had paid 1.2, new. I had plenty of people wishing to rent for 10K, furnished. Very nicely laid out MooBaan, and I too was really impressed with the landscaping. It reminded me of Berkeley or Charlottesville. Nothing quite like squaring off wwith a 90 Kg dog while you are just trying to drop off your laundry. I've heard a lot of good things about Home In The Park, but that may be mor elike 25,000. I think I would do condos in a great area (West side) and avoid Suk-Suks and motorbikes altogether.

[binjalin]

Ban Wangtan is tucked in off Hang Dong Rd, 3km SSE of CNX, almost behind Makro. Map: http://wikimapia.org...12&z=16&l=0&m=b

It's a large leafy development with many rentals in section 5 from ~ 8k p/m up. Average for a nice 2 or 3 bed single story on small plot is ~ 12k. Best to drive around and look for rental signs on gates. Took me 6 weeks before we found a suitable spacious house with BIG kitchen.

Lease normally ~12months although some landlords will negotiate. You pay water, security and power on top of rent, say 1,500 baht p/m.

PM if you want more info.

I honestly would give Baan Wang Tan a miss for a variety of reasons: too far out, full dogs, charge for swimming pool etc. etc. and way out where you want to be - IN town

[binjalin]

I am a former owner at BWT. It is too far off the main road, and was dog Hell, when I ived there. Two thai rental homes were taking care of 12 soi dogs, but letting them roam at night. Things can change, but as a friend told me: "I don't think you will get burglarized, can't say the same for a dog bite." A Tourist Policeman told me the other day he had to go over there over a farang girl getting bitten by a dog. I paid 915,000 and sold for 990,000. Bought from a Thai couple, who had been transferred to Lopburi; they had paid 1.2, new. I had plenty of people wishing to rent for 10K, furnished. Very nicely laid out MooBaan, and I too was really impressed with the landscaping. It reminded me of Berkeley or Charlottesville. Nothing quite like squaring off wwith a 90 Kg dog while you are just trying to drop off your laundry. I've heard a lot of good things about Home In The Park, but that may be mor elike 25,000. I think I would do condos in a great area (West side) and avoid Suk-Suks and motorbikes altogether.

Totally agree - I am former owner too - full of dogs (soi and owned) and VERY frightening in the early hours to be confronted by packs of dogs which happened to me many times. Also my garden was constantly under siege from dogs - I bought a BB gun in the end.

[kaptainrob]

@binjalin

Too far out? 10 mins from the moat/Airport Plaza. Best Makro and HomePro in Thailand virtually next door!

Dogs, yes there's a lot of houses have dogs. Not much different to any part of CM. Plenty of walkers, bikers and ppl exercising and all carry a stick just in-case. I must get one too...so far I have not had a problem.

[binjalin]

@binjalin

Too far out? 10 mins from the moat/Airport Plaza. Best Makro and HomePro in Thailand virtually next door!

Dogs, yes there's a lot of houses have dogs. Not much different to any part of CM. Plenty of walkers, bikers and ppl exercising and all carry a stick just in-case. I must get one too...so far I have not had a problem.

no offence - yes I found it too far out - a long trawl back after a meal or drinking to hang dong from the town - about 30 minutes ride/drive then down that longggggg road to the moobaan (mostly unlit) then confront the packs of dogs who chase the bike (especially at 1 or 2 in the morning).

Not sure about 'best' makro/homepro but yes they are only 15 minutes away I grant you - anyway each to their own... glad you are happy there but it's not for me and now sold up and many others have done so too and we won't even mention the flightpath!

Edited August 24, 2012 by binjalin

[mania]

and we won't even mention the flightpath!

Well now that you have I would like to ask about that.

Every time I have pointed out to my wife, what looked like a good deal

on a house in Hang Dong. She always mentions it will be too noisy with flights.

Is that a big problem there in Hang Dong generally? Or just certain areas that line up with the landing/takeoff

path?

Thank you

[kaptainrob]

no offence - yes I found it too far out - a long trawl back after a meal or drinking to hang dong from the town - about 30 minutes ride/drive then down that longggggg road to the moobaan (mostly unlit) then confront the packs of dogs who chase the bike (especially at 1 or 2 in the morning).

Not sure about 'best' makro/homepro but yes they are only 15 minutes away I grant you - anyway each to their own... glad you are happy there but it's not for me and now sold up and many others have done so too and we won't even mention the flightpath!

No offence taken.

I can ride Mio to Airport Plaza in 10 mins, except rush hour. Makro is 5 mins away on Mio, or 25 mins if I walk. 20 to 25 mins on Mio got me to Changklan Road Land Transport office at 0830am the other day when I had to meet a friend.... and that was taking it easy, no more than 70 kmph.

I don't go out drinking in the city but if out at a restaurant then it will be by car, so not a problem. Coming home from Number1 Bar late last week, on the Mio, I did not see a single dog, let alone a pack!

I had read about past dog problems and it concerned me at first. Friends already residing here said BWT had sorted it. We'll see ...

Western end of BWT (5A) is a lot noisier than 5B/C. A difference of 500m does make a difference! Where was your house?

[Thighlander]

I was in 5A, and the dogs were a lot worse than the jets, wich I actually kind of liked. Besides the soi dogs, there are a number of people involved in dog breeding, and there are caged dogs barking all day/night. That photo shows some of the problems....homes have one car space...second car goes on the street, making it impossible for two cars two get by...it also shows NO SIDEWALK, so you get to share a 5 meter wide road with parked cars and motorbikes and moving cars. I hate having to look over my shoulder every 20 feet, when walking. Tuk-Tuk from Spicy will charge you 200 THB. I didn't mind paying for the pool when I used it. I thought that was more fair than paying for a bunch of kids from the neighborhood to use it. Never could quite figure out the restaurant....usually empty, but a bit spotty. Used to be able to get a great haircut for 50 thb between 4 and 5, but I think she had cancer.

[sitta]

"condominium building called Anket Pavilon, this 12 stories condominium is located to the right of the super HWY that leads in to CM, is in the small sub soi as you enter the city behind was used to be Carrefour super market (Now Big C) 10 Min to the center of CM"

Is this is a good area to live in?

Thanks for any info.