Killing "naam" The Plant

[bunnydrops]

Anyone that has to deal with this plant knows what a pain they are. Thorns 2 inches long and as sharp as needles. Can flatten tires I have chopped most of it out. Cut down the some with trunks a foot in diameter. But as some also know--- they just will not die. In one month starts from the trunks are already over a foot long. I am not into using herbicides but I can not see any other way. What would be good for "spot" killing these plants.

[ExpatOilWorker]

...

Edited May 4, 2013 by ExpatOilWorker

[shaggy1969]

I remember reading somewhere about people drilling holes in the tree stump as far down as possible and then filling the holes with diesel,repeating the process for a number of days and then setting fire to them.

The stump would burn for a couple of hours and then slowly smolder away until the stump and even some of the smaller roots were gone.All that was left to do was fill the holes with ground after.

Apparently this would also work on freshly cut trees.

[candypants]

^^^ dont you think that would have the effect of contaminating the soil?

[shaggy1969]

^^^ dont you think that would have the effect of contaminating the soil?

I would of thought that most of the diesel would be burnt off,and from what I gathered it wasn't vast amounts amounts of diesel in the first place.

I think that the diesel was only used to start the fire , maybe a more Eco friendly combustible fuel could be used.

Just sharing ideas

[teletiger]

Copper nails?

Regards.

[up2me4now]

Diesel will kill any tree by drilling holes into the trunk.

This used to be a common practise years ago for killing protected trees in Europe so the owner of the land did not after apply for permission to remove them ( which was always declined anyway).

Not sure about burning the tree straight afterwards for long term effects though, that defeats the work of the diesel penetrating and killing the roots.

[xen]

Get a paint pot of glysophate , a paint brush (A artists water paint brush is excellent altho pricey) and a butchers knife . Go around to each plant a cut a slice in the bark and then paint the straight glyphopate into the cut and onto the bark..The bark layer contains the phloem which will carry the glysophate around the plant. This is called translocation, Drilling a hole into the deadwood or heart wood is a waste of time and money . By this method you can selectively poison each unwanted plant . You will not waste chemical and it should not contaminate the surrounding area if it is done correctly. A large trunk may need a couple of applications around the diameter of the trunk .

Here is a Wikipedia link to explain the phloem http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phloem .

[bunnydrops]

Get a paint pot of glysophate , a paint brush (A artists water paint brush is excellent altho pricey) and a butchers knife . Go around to each plant a cut a slice in the bark and then paint the straight glyphopate into the cut and onto the bark..The bark layer contains the phloem which will carry the glysophate around the plant. This is called translocation, Drilling a hole into the deadwood or heart wood is a waste of time and money . By this method you can selectively poison each unwanted plant . You will not waste chemical and it should not contaminate the surrounding area if it is done correctly. A large trunk may need a couple of applications around the diameter of the trunk .

Here is a Wikipedia link to explain the phloem http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phloem .

Thanks Xen for that suggestion. What is a brand name for glysophate in Thailand? I will give it a try. We used to do the hole and diesel in NW USA on big stumps a meter or more wide. Put the diesel in and covered the top with plastic. Added more diesel as needed for about a month and then set it on fire. The fire would burn for weeks deep down into the roots.

Edited May 5, 2013 by bunnydrops

[samuijimmy]

Get a paint pot of glysophate , a paint brush (A artists water paint brush is excellent altho pricey) and a butchers knife . Go around to each plant a cut a slice in the bark and then paint the straight glyphopate into the cut and onto the bark..The bark layer contains the phloem which will carry the glysophate around the plant. This is called translocation, Drilling a hole into the deadwood or heart wood is a waste of time and money . By this method you can selectively poison each unwanted plant . You will not waste chemical and it should not contaminate the surrounding area if it is done correctly. A large trunk may need a couple of applications around the diameter of the trunk .

Here is a Wikipedia link to explain the phloem http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phloem .

Thanks Xen for that suggestion. What is a brand name for glysophate in Thailand? I will give it a try. We used to do the hole and diesel in NW USA on big stumps a meter or more wide. Put the diesel in and covered the top with plastic. Added more diesel as needed for about a month and then set it on fire. The fire would burn for weeks deep down into the roots.

They call it glysophate here, and most garden or farm supplies stores should have it... It says Monsanto on the red cap.

Comes in one or 5 litre containers, (I think one litre should be more than enough for the need) ... I think if I was to do this, I would drill holes in around the stump, rather than painting it on!!!! Pour some in the holes You may need to redo, after a few months... depending on size of trunk...

Generally glysophate only works by trans-locating through green leaves, but I have known people to use this drill and pour method on trees!!! Remember that glysophate does take 10 days or so work work under normal application... this method may take longer... ?

[xen]

Get a paint pot of glysophate , a paint brush (A artists water paint brush is excellent altho pricey) and a butchers knife . Go around to each plant a cut a slice in the bark and then paint the straight glyphopate into the cut and onto the bark..The bark layer contains the phloem which will carry the glysophate around the plant. This is called translocation, Drilling a hole into the deadwood or heart wood is a waste of time and money . By this method you can selectively poison each unwanted plant . You will not waste chemical and it should not contaminate the surrounding area if it is done correctly. A large trunk may need a couple of applications around the diameter of the trunk .

Here is a Wikipedia link to explain the phloem http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phloem .

Thanks Xen for that suggestion. What is a brand name for glysophate in Thailand? I will give it a try. We used to do the hole and diesel in NW USA on big stumps a meter or more wide. Put the diesel in and covered the top with plastic. Added more diesel as needed for about a month and then set it on fire. The fire would burn for weeks deep down into the roots.

They call it glysophate here, and most garden or farm supplies stores should have it... It says Monsanto on the red cap.

Comes in one or 5 litre containers, (I think one litre should be more than enough for the need) ... I think if I was to do this, I would drill holes in around the stump, rather than painting it on!!!! Pour some in the holes You may need to redo, after a few months... depending on size of trunk...

Generally glysophate only works by trans-locating through green leaves, but I have known people to use this drill and pour method on trees!!! Remember that glysophate does take 10 days or so work work under normal application... this method may take longer... ?

The method i described is the method used by Bush regenerators in Oz for reclaiming native bush land from invasive species. . I should have read the OP a bit closer especially about the size of the trunks but I would still paint the green bark and the shoots with straight 100% glysophate rather than pouring glysophate into the deadwood /heartwood.If you do drill then restrict it to the cambian bark area.

We used to use 245T or 245D (Amine Salts ) in the same method but i think that may be very difficult to find now , even in Thailand. It was one of the main ingrediants in Agent Orange used for defoliation in the DMZ in Vietnam. Using the paint brush method keeps it restricted to the target species.

[shaggy1969]

Get a paint pot of glysophate , a paint brush (A artists water paint brush is excellent altho pricey) and a butchers knife . Go around to each plant a cut a slice in the bark and then paint the straight glyphopate into the cut and onto the bark..The bark layer contains the phloem which will carry the glysophate around the plant. This is called translocation, Drilling a hole into the deadwood or heart wood is a waste of time and money . By this method you can selectively poison each unwanted plant . You will not waste chemical and it should not contaminate the surrounding area if it is done correctly. A large trunk may need a couple of applications around the diameter of the trunk .

Here is a Wikipedia link to explain the phloem http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phloem .

Thanks Xen for that suggestion. What is a brand name for glysophate in Thailand? I will give it a try. We used to do the hole and diesel in NW USA on big stumps a meter or more wide. Put the diesel in and covered the top with plastic. Added more diesel as needed for about a month and then set it on fire. The fire would burn for weeks deep down into the roots.

They call it glysophate here, and most garden or farm supplies stores should have it... It says Monsanto on the red cap.

Comes in one or 5 litre containers, (I think one litre should be more than enough for the need) ... I think if I was to do this, I would drill holes in around the stump, rather than painting it on!!!! Pour some in the holes You may need to redo, after a few months... depending on size of trunk...

Generally glysophate only works by trans-locating through green leaves, but I have known people to use this drill and pour method on trees!!! Remember that glysophate does take 10 days or so work work under normal application... this method may take longer... ?

The method i described is the method used by Bush regenerators in Oz for reclaiming native bush land from invasive species. . I should have read the OP a bit closer especially about the size of the trunks but I would still paint the green bark and the shoots with straight 100% glysophate rather than pouring glysophate into the deadwood /heartwood.If you do drill then restrict it to the cambian bark area.

We used to use 245T or 245D (Amine Salts ) in the same method but i think that may be very difficult to find now , even in Thailand. It was one of the main ingrediants in Agent Orange used for defoliation in the DMZ in Vietnam. Using the paint brush method keeps it restricted to the target species.

Interesting and informative,thanks for sharing guy's

[jingjoke]

" What is a brand name for glysophate in Thailand?"

Roundup.

[samuijimmy]

" What is a brand name for glysophate in Thailand?"

Roundup.

The locals just say "glysophate".... I have never heard them say Roundup....

[loong]

" What is a brand name for glysophate in Thailand?"

Roundup.

The locals just say "glysophate".... I have never heard them say Roundup....

Me neither

I believe that Glyphosate is the main ingredient in Roundup, but it is not exactly the same.

I believe in Thai it is written

ไกลโฟเชต 48%

pronounced Glai poh sayt, almost exactly the same as in English. The "ph" sound as in "photo" doesn't exist in Thai

Note it is Glyphosate, not Glysophate as written in all the previous posts.

Edited May 26, 2013 by loong

[samuijimmy]

We'll get this sorted yet!

Here is a picture of the one litre bottle of Roundup! or Glyphosate.... (yeah was being lazy and did not check the spelling, )

When ever I have heard a Thai say the word, it sounds to me the same as English version !

According to my neighbour ไกลโฟเชต 48% ..... says Glyphosate

The word written in big type on the bottle says Roundup .... but I have never heard any local here, call it by that~!

Will that do it now!???

Edited May 26, 2013 by samuijimmy

[kickstart]

There is a Thai Glyphosate ,glyphosate black ,it has a Thai lable ,it is good if any rain is imminent it only needs 2 hours after applying to be effective, as the the other brands need about 6 hours,must be a good sticking agent in it ,a bit more expencive but worth it.

Yours Reg

KS

[loong]

We'll get this sorted yet!

Here is a picture of the one litre bottle of Roundup! or Glyphosate.... (yeah was being lazy and did not check the spelling, )

When ever I have heard a Thai say the word, it sounds to me the same as English version !

According to my neighbour ไกลโฟเชต 48% ..... says Glyphosate

The word written in big type on the bottle says Roundup .... but I have never heard any local here, call it by that~!

Will that do it now!???

Yes, I'm an idiot. Got my p and f mixed up. I should practice my reading and writing occasionally

At the risk of being wrong again. The big writing on the bottle seems to say Rao-up

[cooked]

There is a Thai Glyphosate ,glyphosate black ,it has a Thai lable ,it is good if any rain is imminent it only needs 2 hours after applying to be effective, as the the other brands need about 6 hours,must be a good sticking agent in it ,a bit more expencive but worth it.

Yours Reg

KS

Some Roundup contains in addition to Glyphosate highly toxic additives that increase its efficiency. Maybe this is what you are using.

[kickstart]

I bow to your wisdom ,our land lies wet,well most times ,not this year, we had patches of yar con ,para grass, it takes some getting rid of, I used this glyphosate black that fettled it, but I did notice thay was more froth in the sprayer than before.

Another case of TIT I think.

Yours Reg

KS