Pump Differences

[wayned]

The pump has a very small accumulator tank so if you turn off all of the taps, the pump should turn off almost immediately. Pictures of your installation might help. Your supply tank is an underground tank and there is a shutoff valve on the input of the tank, correct? If you shut off this valve the pump stops? Is there a shutoff valve on the output of the pump before it goes into the house plumbing?

I don't have FUJIKA, I have a Mitsubishi and a Marquis, and if I shutoff the input valve or the tank goes dry on either one the pump continues to run, so I don't understand why your pump turns off when you shutoff the valve, it should continue to run since it would not be able to build pressure to shut activate the pressure shutoff switch. If your valve was on the output and the pump turned off when you shut it then you would either have a big leak or it was still trying to fill another tank connected to the output or the switch is bad. Hence the request for pictures.

When the pump is running with nothing turned on, lightly hit the side of the pressure switch, the small cylindrical unit with the gray or blue cover next to the tank, with the handle of a screwdriver a couple of times.

[khunjoelbc]

ok.will send you asap pictures.

Your supply tank is an underground tank and there is a shutoff valve on the input of the tank, correct?YES CORRECT.

If you shut off this valve the pump stops? YES....

Is there a shutoff valve on the output of the pump before it goes into the house plumbing? YES

When the pump is running with nothing turned on, lightly hit the side of the pressure switch, the small cylindrical unit with the gray or blue cover next to the tank, with the handle of a screwdriver a couple of times...OK WAYNED - WILL DO TOMORROW

Thanks again for your much needed input.

[wayned]

Is there a shutoff valve on the output of the pump before it goes into the house plumbing? YES

If you turn off this valve while the pump is running dose it turn off? If it does then your have a serious "leak" in your plumbing, if it doesn't your pump is defective, most likely the pressure cutoff switch! Awaiting pictures!

[bankruatsteve]

The pump would also behave like that if the in/out lines reversed on the pump. ??

Edit: Sorry, I think there was a post saying it did put pressure at the taps but just doesn't turn off. Nevermind.

Edited October 17, 2014 by bankruatsteve

[raro]

Just to follow up on the saga, our pump crapped up completely and has been replaced by a much smaller Fujika pump. The pump is much quieter but the occasional pumping in short intervals petdudists... Reckon there is indeed a leak somewhere in the pipes as we can rule out the pump being the problem.

Anyways, we quizzed the staff in several home marts, home pros home whatevers. After drilling a bit deeper they all said go for the compact pumps, they use less energy and are quieter. Brand doesn't really matter, the cheapest do the trick.

[wayned]

Just to follow up on the saga, our pump crapped up completely and has been replaced by a much smaller Fujika pump. The pump is much quieter but the occasional pumping in short intervals petdudists... Reckon there is indeed a leak somewhere in the pipes as we can rule out the pump being the problem.

Anyways, we quizzed the staff in several home marts, home pros home whatevers. After drilling a bit deeper they all said go for the compact pumps, they use less energy and are quieter. Brand doesn't really matter, the cheapest do the trick.

I would first check your toilets. They tend to have a slow unnoticeable leak that will cause the pump o cycle.

[wayned]

Is there a shutoff valve on the output of the pump before it goes into the house plumbing? YES

If you turn off this valve while the pump is running dose it turn off? If it does then your have a serious "leak" in your plumbing, if it doesn't your pump is defective, most likely the pressure cutoff switch! Awaiting pictures!

If the pump does turn off when you turn off the output valve from the pump, the serious "leak" that I sad might be as simple as a stuck, incorrectly installed or lack of a flow control valve on the input water line. With the pump off do you still get water at your taps at a reduced flow rate?

Most installations have the input water line connected through a flow control valve so that you will still get water when there is no electricity. If the valve is stuck open, installed backwards or there is no valve, whenever the pump is on it will try to pressurize the entire water supply system piping and will never turn off or it will cycle rapidly. I actually replaced my valve with a on/off valve because it was always sticking open due to the crappy water supply.

Crossy had a nice diagram in one of the threads but I can't find it so here's a sketch;

hookup diagram.tif

[khunjoelbc]

Hi Guys,

This is the picture as attached (oppss...been looking for that icon for 15 minutes now - the attach file icon).

Sorry for the ignorance - but how to attach it?

[wayned]

Down by the Post button you must select "more reply options" to attach a file. Click on "choose files" and find the file you want to attach. Double click on the file, it will load and then click on "attach file". It should attach to your post.

Edited October 19, 2014 by wayned

[khunjoelbc]

Thanks again Khun Wayned,

Please find attached the pix. The pump, as I check thoroughly - is working - the on and off cut out. I still cant figure it out why there are 2 branch pipes - I assume that one line will go to the tank (shown as concrete tank with cover open) and one line will go direct to the housing piping system.

By tomorrow, I will go back to look for the installer and I will bring my Thai friend with me:)...

[khunjoelbc]

Thanks again Khun Wayned,

[khunjoelbc]

and everybody

[wayned]

If anything your pictures make it a little more confusing, but: look at the configuration of the pump on this website: http://www.maxxi.co.th/water-pump-fcp-250

For some reason the installer placed the gray piece supplied with the pump, right side of the first picture, on the input side, not the output as shown in all of FUJIKA's brochures. If that piece is only a cutoff switch then it really doesn't mater.

The output of the pump goes through a on/off switch, left side near the pump, and then to a "T" junction where it is connected to another pipe with an on/off control, it then goes to the house plumbing.

My assumption is that the upper pipe with the on/off switch on the left side is a pipe from the "city"water supply and the switch is there, like mine is connected, rather than a flow control valve.

On the side with the two pipes:

1. What happens if the pump is running and you turn off the lower valve, close to the pump. The pump should turn off.

2. What happens if the lower valve is on and you turn off the upper valve. The pump should turn off.

If the above is true, then to get the system to operate as designed the upper valve must be off and the lower valve on. The installer has installed a on/off switch instead of a flow control valve and if the upper valve is left on when the pump is running then it will not turn off as it it trying to pressurize the entire incoming "city" water supply system.

If this is true, if the electric goes off in your area or the pump fails the only way that you will get water from the city is physically turn the valve on, like I do. If you want the system to automatically give you city water when the above occurs you need to have the installer replace the upper valve with flow control check valve so that the pressurized water from the pump does not flow back into the "city" system.

My 2 baht worth! If that's not it then I'm out of suggestions other than get the installer back and have him put it right before you draw and quarter him!

[wayned]

If what i said in the above post is how your system is connected, I would urge you to have the upper cutoff valve replaced with a check valve for the following reasons:

1. When the power goes off and you need to turn the valve on, it will most likely be pissing down rain.

2. At the same time that you turn on the upper valve you should turn off the lower valve and the and/or the electric to the pump.

3. If you don't do #2 when the power comes back on the pump will start and will continue to run trying to pressurize the city system. The tank might run dry causing the pump motor to overheat and damage the motor if the thermal cutoff is not working p[properly.

Mine is connected this way an believe me I know what is required and it would be a PITA but my valves are all located in a covered area and I'm home most of the time. I've only had it connected this way for 14 years and my wife still can't do it right when the electric goes off!

[khunjoelbc]

Morning Khun wayned,

Thanks again for all the inputs. I will drop by this afternoon to the place - I printed all your advise and will do the necessary checks. Then I can reply to you more precisely.

I am just thinking for now - as I am looking the pictures - the first picture - the pipe on the right side is suppose to be the inlet? meaning that pipe is the incoming pipe from the govt water utilities? If not - that pipe goes to the housing piping?

T hen perhaps the pipe on the leftmost with the valve cut off/on - is the pipe that is from the govt water utilities? hmmmm. Let me sort this out today - I will ask my thai friends here in the office about this. Thanks

[wayned]

The one pipe on the right side is the inlet to the pump. You said that you have an underground tank and that pipe should be coming from the tank. The tank should be filling from the government water supply and should have a ball type cutoff valve in it to shutoff the water supply from the government supply when it is full. You don't show anything regarding the tank.

If you do not have a tank and the pump is connected directly to the government water supply the installation is illegal. You cannot pump water directly from the government supply as you will affect others connected to the supply.

There are two pipes connected to the output, left side of the pump, one coming directly from the pump with a cutoff valve. I suspect that the other is coming directly from the government water supply, as it should, and gives you water when the electric is off and the pump is not working. It has a shutoff valve on it but it should have a flow control check valve. If I am right, in your current installation if the upper valve is turned on the pump will continue running as it is trying to pressurize the government water system.

When the pump is running with all of the taps in your house turned off, close the valve on the upper pipe. If the pump stops and only turns on when you turn on a tap in the house, then what I said is correct. You either have to leave the valve turned off and only turn it on when there is no electric or replace the valve with a flow control check valve to prevent the output of the pump flowing back int the government water system. Look at the horrible sketch that I sent earlier, that valve in the box above the pump is what I am talking about.

Just for grins, where is this house located?

[kamalabob2]

To Golf1here: I asked the Mitsubishi Water pump Technical Advisor what water pump specialist was in Rayong who sold the Mitsubishi Super Pump: He said two dealers are the high volume dealers who would be worth visiting: "Sam Yun Khon Karn" 038-671-150 or "Panyayon" 038-611-255 Perhaps these shops can also quote a price for professional installation. That Mitsubishi technical advisor was inside Ruangsangthai to do a seminar on water pumps and water pump installations for the staff of that builders merchants store. Many stores in Buriram Province including Big C, Makro, Home Mart, HomePro, Thaiwatsadu can sell normal household Mitsubishi Water pumps but only two dealers in the province sell the Mitsubishi Super Pumps.

[khunjoelbc]

Hi Wayned,

Still - did not find time to come back to that place (I thought I could do it yesterday - but on bed all the time for the other day -Wednesday, after work - the office mates invited me-for a wholesome night out:). Definitely I will drop by tomorrow and or Sunday - to check some deliveries .

But ok - Your last advise is the most logical one - and correct, it needs a check valve somewhere. I will revert back after my testing (again) as per your advise sequencing, close this, open that - close this and that and what happen everytime.

The place is located - if you came from say laem chabang to pattaya - it is on the the left side -near rong po market about a km from sukhumvit. It is still part of Bang la mung.

[kamalabob2]

For those home owners in Buriram Province who might have been told to put a Grundfos water pump in a box for shipment to Bangkok for repairs at a "chain home center store" with plenty of salesmen, but no actual repair staff, I noted that Grundfos Water Pumps and Metabo Power Tools were being repaired across from the Buriram Provincial Electricity Authority four story office building inside the service department of Ruangsangthai Buriram Builders Merchants. They seemed to be repairing a Stihl petrol chainsaw the same afternoon and I had my Makita hedge trimmer sharpened.

[khunjoelbc]

I have the fujika and working good.queit also

[Stuart21]

If anyone has an older Fujika, 250 W (this applies to the 250 FCP, probably also to the one with the tank under the pump), I have had pretty good service out of mine over ten years or so. A couple of new impellers when the pressure dropped.

Pressure has been dropping over the last couple of years so that it does not have the pressure to switch off at no flow if the pressure is set high enough to pump to the top of my shophouse. So washing clothes, watering the garden etc meant trips down to turn on a tap on the second floor until the pump started, then turn it off and pump will pump to 4F.

Called Fujika service - engineer from Pattaya somewhere came out, but without impeller which I thought was a bit stupid, but I thought I should get new bearings, (been squealing a bit lately) seal, impeller and pump housing anyway. Asked the engineer how much all that would cost - he volunteered that Fujika offer a 'short motor' - new motor and pump, exchange, just put all the other bits on from your old pump - for 2,500 Bht.

Ordered that, he came back in 2 days with the kit, and had it changed over in about an hour. Performance now as good as new - constant water to the roof! Happy camper.

(Mine appeared new, but not sure if all are, or rebuilt) - but either way, should be good value.

[MaiChai]

I have a lucky pro pump. The bulb tank on it needs checking every year and pumping up with a bicycle pump to give I think about 15 psi. The pressure switch died after about 3 years and I replaced it. Since replacing it I bought another spare but it's been going strong for at least 2 years. You can open up the pressure switch by twisting the cover and pulling it off. Then you will find a screw to adjust he pressure switch operation; over time you will need to adjust this; I had to adjust it to give continuous flow for the shower rather that it pumping in squirts. Thus like most things pumps need maintenance, servicing and adjusting to your installation. More recently i have not see the pressure switches available; if anyone knows where to get the 1/4" male thread switches, please share; global house used to do them. Dohome do the female ones. Actually just thinking about i could buy the female dohome one and swap parts with the male one? I mean the switch, as it's probably the same.

Edited January 16, 2016 by MaiChai

[kurtgruen]

Hi guys, I was looking at the Misubishi EP 355 Constant Pressure pump and it says...

Suction distance (m): 8 Transmission distance (m.):

22

I am looking for a pump, hopefully with constant pressure, because my automatic washing machine displays error messages and goes looney, if the electric or water pressure is unstable.

My plan is to pump up the water, out of my well, that is around 5 meters deep, send it about 60 meters, next to my house and then pump it up about 5 meters, into my water storage tank. What would be a good pump to do all that and not be overkill and blow apart the PVC pipes later?

I am open to different makes, but want to stay away from the Chinese thow away models, but still want to find one that is cost effficent ;-)

Thanks

Kurt

[George Harmony]

Just want to share my small water system solar powered.

If you dont mind that your water-tower-tank (max 4m high) will slow be filled (2-3 liter per min) you can use a dc circulation pump which usually being used in campers.

It turns out thay with a footvalve this pump sucks water from my well and pump to my tank 3.3m on a tower.

So when there is sun its all free. I use a 50wp solar panel and the pump is only 2.1amp. On an average day within one hour my tank is full again. I dont use a lot of water, +/- 150 liter only.

I connect this pump also directly to my cranes. When there is no crane open, it fills my tank. Up till now, 7 months in use, no problems at all.

Edited February 21, 2016 by George Harmony

[raro]

old topic, but still hot!

 

Now my two years old Fujika FCP-150 went on occasional strike. No pumping from time to time. If I call the service guy, I'm 100% sure the bloody pump would work when he's here, but not when he's gone. 

 

Any idea what the problem could be?

[bankruatsteve]

No water to pump.  Unplugged.  Hooked up to mains or a tank?

[raro]

hooked up to a tank and the tank is full. Also plugged in. After a while the pump decides to work again, actually it woks most of the time. Just sometimes it just is not in the mood...

[wayned]

I had a Mitsubishi that was very sensitive to low voltage, brown out.  The motor wouldn't start and it would heat up and trip the thermal overload switch.  As soon as the voltage returned to normal it would work fine.