No! Not that kind! But now that I've got your attention: I want a patch -- approx 30 sq metres-- of good, old fashioned green lawn grass next to my house. Any suggestions on how to do this? Type of seed? Names of grass available around these parts? Care?

Thank you.

Go to the nursery and buy sod. Lay it down. Green side up.

It's also good to first put down soil, manure, then sand. My wife also sprinkled salt on the sand, said it keeps out the biting/stinging ants from making their home in the sand.

green side up!

green side up!

But isn't the grass is always greener on the other side?

Depending on your soil, it usually helps to put down 1-2 cm of sand to help with root growth. Most sod looks (and is) torn and imperfect but just lay it down and within a few months it will grow together.

I put down 800 sqm of turf.

I prepared a 2 inch carpet of sandy soil/cow shit/rice husks/coconut fibre.

Looks as good as I wanted to be.

15 Baht a sqm for the turf (Nua Noi - I think) and 18 Baht for Malay grass.

Oops, sorry - plus 3,500 Baht delivery.

Thanks for the tips, especially about putting down some sand first.

Definitely go the sod route...it's nearly instant lawn and is cheap versus waiting (and hoping) for seed to sprout and grow good. Prices for sod vary by type of grass but here in western Bangkok I've bought sod many times for approx 17 to 25 baht per square meter....I don't know the name of the grass I've been buying over the years I just know it's the cheapest, grows good in sun or shade, can handle being waterlogged for extended periods during the rainy season, seems to be the most common grass used throughout my large moobaan, and is the cheapest sod compares to other varieties that can cost up to around 100 baht per square meter.

When laying down the sod hoe-up the soil to loosen it up, smooth it out the best you can, then lay down a thin layer of sand and/or topsoil (which is also very cheap) which makes it easier for the sod to sprout roots and also just to make it easier to see how flat you have got the lawn surface, press the sod firmly into the sand/soil with your feet especially during the first soaking of the grass...really important to get the grass pressed down into the soil so the roots coming with the sod can get nurishment/water and new roots can sprout, and keep it watered good for the first few weeks. And DON'T use fertilizer on newly planted grass...it will just burn/shock the grass...let the grass get well established before using any fertilizer.

The preparation is the key and some patience prior to laying the grass will pay you dividends later. Make sure the ground is as flat as you want it, make sure you don't go overboard with fertilizer in the sand mix, as previously stated you can burn the roots. If you can get your hands on a roller and roll the grass after laying you will see a noticeable difference, if you can keep it onsite for a few days or a week and roll it several times it's well worth it.

Make sure you have excess soil, as the grass "beds down" you will see small dips and hollows, fill these later with soil and the grass will grow into them.

Lastly don't be stingy with the water, it has to be kept damp so a good watering in the morning and evening (for two to three weeks) should do the trick.

I sodded an area about 80 ft by 60 ft in Thailand many years ago. I used about 1/4 coverage with the squares of sod I bought. Within one year it was grown together and looked perfect like a carpet.

make sure the grass area is in full sun,grass will not grow in the shade .

You will never see grass in the shade of a tree,unless it is plastic grass.

I gave up grass after 10 times ,so good luck.

The grass is always greener over the septic tank!

TBWG

My wife takes care of these things...

We have a green lawn and she plays chess against herself with the plants that she keeps moving around ;-)

Meanwhile I'm the happy camper and open another beer

The preparation is the key and some patience prior to laying the grass will pay you dividends later. Make sure the ground is as flat as you want it, make sure you don't go overboard with fertilizer in the sand mix, as previously stated you can burn the roots. If you can get your hands on a roller and roll the grass after laying you will see a noticeable difference, if you can keep it onsite for a few days or a week and roll it several times it's well worth it.

Make sure you have excess soil, as the grass "beds down" you will see small dips and hollows, fill these later with soil and the grass will grow into them.

Lastly don't be stingy with the water, it has to be kept damp so a good watering in the morning and evening (for two to three weeks) should do the trick.

Very good point with the leveling and settling.

Plant your seeds...when about 1 meter tall keep looking for little balls forming these are a sign of male plants....you only want the female.......Sorry you mean grass as in turf.....my bad

If the area gets plenty of sun, Nua noi is fine. If it's a shady area, then Malay grass is better. Malay grows best when grown on soil only, no need for sand unless topdressing to make it smooth. Nua noi can grow in soil & sand.

make sure the grass area is in full sun,grass will not grow in the shade .

You will never see grass in the shade of a tree,unless it is plastic grass.

I gave up grass after 10 times ,so good luck.

Wrong.

Malay grass will thrive in the shade.

I had so much information to provide & was so excited until I reread. The latter part of the question...sorry.

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I agree with good preparation.

You wont have good grass without good subsoil ... people want to just lay it on builders compacted clay , broken tiles etc.

If you want a lawn to last , you must turn over at least 6-8 inches of subsoil and throw out lumps of cement, bottles etc. Then level again.

Then topsoil ... sand/salt against ants is a great suggestion at least 2 -3 inches.

Try to level from the centre outwards , its better to have it a bit 'Roman' ( higher in the middle ) for drainage than the opposite.

As everyone has said , water well and keep watering.

Yours is only a small patch , anything larger I would suggest getting half an old door or heavy piece of wood , nailing a piece of longish rope from one end to the other and dragging that around to level the bed.

A roller can be made by taking a paint bucket , cutting off the wider lip , placing a piece of blue piping in the centre , then filling with cement. After the cement sets, knock a hole thru the centre of the base and into the blue pipe and file the new edge smooth. Another smaller diameter piece of pipe is run through the piece set in the concrete as an axle , and another longish piece of rope run thru the axle and tied off as a loop..

You now have a roller. Drag that around.

Lawns loved to be rolled.

After the first year , water sparingly or only when you see it thinning/yellowing, in the dry season ...this helps the grass to send down long roots and makes it tougher and less dependent on water.

Lawns also like to be cut , so if you hate mowing or dont have a mower, reconsider this idea.

Hydroponically.

make sure the grass area is in full sun,grass will not grow in the shade .

You will never see grass in the shade of a tree,unless it is plastic grass.

I gave up grass after 10 times ,so good luck.

There are a few reasons for this -

The obvious is that the tree is so shady that the grass doesnt get enough light , but there are species that actually love half a days shade.

Another reason is that tree wants to 'steal' all the nutrients and makes it so that the grass under it needs special care.

But many plants also carry natural defoliants that mist down and poison any competition.

Most trees that like tropical environments and have a foliage line above 2 metres will let grass survive , with the exception of eucalypts and conifers .

Some trees you should never grow lawns up to or under , particularly citrus , as the grass carries diseases that kill those tree.

The preparation is the key and some patience prior to laying the grass will pay you dividends later. Make sure the ground is as flat as you want it, make sure you don't go overboard with fertilizer in the sand mix, as previously stated you can burn the roots. If you can get your hands on a roller and roll the grass after laying you will see a noticeable difference, if you can keep it onsite for a few days or a week and roll it several times it's well worth it.

Make sure you have excess soil, as the grass "beds down" you will see small dips and hollows, fill these later with soil and the grass will grow into them.

Lastly don't be stingy with the water, it has to be kept damp so a good watering in the morning and evening (for two to three weeks) should do the trick.

I think the roller is a bit dodgy. When I laid my lawn I loosened the surface soil and pulled a straight edge over it while removing stones Take some time on this as it will save problems of unevenness later.. Laid the turf and them tamped it down with a wooden tamper I made. Doing it this way I found it took out the minor bumps without going down into he hollows as a roller tends to do. Each to his own I suppose. The locals thought I was mad. 'Why is he growing grass and then has to cut it'?

The preparation is the key and some patience prior to laying the grass will pay you dividends later. Make sure the ground is as flat as you want it, make sure you don't go overboard with fertilizer in the sand mix, as previously stated you can burn the roots. If you can get your hands on a roller and roll the grass after laying you will see a noticeable difference, if you can keep it onsite for a few days or a week and roll it several times it's well worth it.

Make sure you have excess soil, as the grass "beds down" you will see small dips and hollows, fill these later with soil and the grass will grow into them.

Lastly don't be stingy with the water, it has to be kept damp so a good watering in the morning and evening (for two to three weeks) should do the trick.

Agree 100% about preparation.

I had a big area to cover and only required an 'amenity lawn'. Nevertheless, I learned a lot about preparation and the initial effort is well worth it.

Salt? A cheap weed killer so good luck with that.

I wouldn't lay down on a lawn anyway, I have seen a couple of snakes hiding in our grass.

Drainage is important, so don't go using a spirit level on your lawn, plan where water will be running off to.

I get mine from Mexic0

I get mine from Mexic0

Your wife or grass?

Depending on your soil, it usually helps to put down 1-2 cm of sand to help with root growth. Most sod looks (and is) torn and imperfect but just lay it down and within a few months it will grow together.

River sand not from the sea or it will die.

I had so much information to provide & was so excited until I reread. The latter part of the question...sorry.

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You can still chime in.

Thanks for all the useful information on growing grass, especially about what to put down before laying the sod and then the care afterwards. There's nothing quite like a lawn of fresh green grass, is there? Funny how you don't see more of it in these parts.

Thanks for all the useful information on growing grass, especially about what to put down before laying the sod and then the care afterwards. There's nothing quite like a lawn of fresh green grass, is there? Funny how you don't see more of it in these parts.

Apart from municipal buildings and a few commercial ventures you won't see much grass.

When we started putting down 800 sqm of turf, plus planting trees and shrubs, the local Thais said " Why are you wasting money doing that - you can't eat it" !