Trek Domane 6.9 Disc

[MaeJoMTB]

If Ultegra and Dura-Ace were really no different than 105 why bother to make them ? They are just the latest design and offer some advantages in materials, longevity, weight and asthetics. (whether I able to exploit any of these is another matter)

I thought Sora and Claris were the latest designs?

It's great that you're rich and have money to burn.

But I always worry the guys that have big money to waste, put off the poorer cyclists with their expensive talk.

And cycling is about age and fitness, not the expense of the bicycle. Cheap bike can easily match expensive bike.

Any day you and your $3000 bicycle want to race me and my $300 bicycle up from CM zoo to Wat Doi Suthep, just LMK.

Then we'll see what really makes the difference.

[Pdaz]

Hahaha.. Not rich, just getting old and worried that I have worked and saved/economised too hard. I too have seen plenty of guys with "all the gear, no idea" but I've "made do" for such a long time that I try to spoil myself more now. If the choice of equipment was all a winner needed then the World would be a boring place.

[villagefarang]

Here is a little update on the bike. I am doing more rides in the 80 to 90 km range and finally broke 100 km, once. The bike is very comfortable and I have adjusted to the light weight enough to feel confident even with no hands. At first it felt pretty twitchy compared to the mountain bike, due to weight and tire size. On an empty backroad I feel riding for a spell with no hands helps me gauge my balance as I get older.

I started off riding on 28s but a while back I got a good sized thorn in the back tire. Fortunately it was a slow leak and I got home before I noticed it. I am pretty sure I got it when passing a road crew trimming the weeds on the side of the road.

Anyway, when I went to the shop they didn’t have any 28s so I opted for a 25 on the back and kept the 28 on the front. I reasoned the bigger tire on the front would provide a little more cushion and traction when steering and braking. Besides the seat post has some builtin dampening so thought I wouldn’t notice much difference in ride comfort.

I really love the electronic gear shifting. I do have some flat sections but there is a lot of rolling terrain on my rides so I do change gears a lot. Every shift is perfect which is really nice.

I am still undecided about keeping this mix of tires or switching to one size or the other. I really haven’t noticed any difference. Switching from mountain bike to road bike did provide the motivational boost I was hoping for. Sometimes all it takes is a change of equipment or a new route to spark renewed interest. I am looking forward to the cooler rides of winter as well.

Normally when using tyres of different widths, you put the wider one on the rear, as 80% of your weight distribution when seated is over the rear wheel. You put the narrower one up front to quicken the steering, Continental do a set called Attack/Force with 22mm up front and 24mm at the rear.

With your setup, I would be concerned with the rear breaking traction before the front when cornering.

Out of interest, is it the same tyre on the rear as the front, just in 25mm? If not, that might explain why you don't see/feel much difference, as different tyres, even from the same brand, have different widths to what is on the tyre.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The 25mm is the same light tread but higher spec and lighter weight. I don't ride this bike like a MTB so I don't expect I will be losing traction. I can see the difference in size but I don't feel any difference in the ride.

[SpokaneAl]

If Ultegra and Dura-Ace were really no different than 105 why bother to make them ? They are just the latest design and offer some advantages in materials, longevity, weight and asthetics. (whether I able to exploit any of these is another matter)

I thought Sora and Claris were the latest designs?

It's great that you're rich and have money to burn.

But I always worry the guys that have big money to waste, put off the poorer cyclists with their expensive talk.

And cycling is about age and fitness, not the expense of the bicycle. Cheap bike can easily match expensive bike.

Any day you and your $3000 bicycle want to race me and my $300 bicycle up from CM zoo to Wat Doi Suthep, just LMK.

Then we'll see what really makes the difference.

What would it matter or prove if one of you beat the other in a race? As I get older, I enjoy nicer machines, both automobiles and bicycles. I like and appreciate a higher end automobile with all the bells and whistles, and the same goes for bikes.

Back in the US I just bought my $6 thousand dream bike, because I could and I knew what I wanted. Sure it is way above my capabilities, and I am hoping it is the last bike I ever buy.

And while, at 65 years old, I cannot compete with the tour pros who were using this model on the tours a few short years ago, I have been at it long enough to have the ability to appreciate and discriminate.

If you are happy with your $300 bike, more power to you.

[SpokaneAl]

P.S. Sora and Claris are lower end group sets in the Shimano line.

[villagefarang]

I like your posts and appreciate your tolerance of my excessive choice of gears and bike. Like you I economized in my youth, though I probably didn’t work as hard, and now in my 60s I figure I can’t take it with me so why not enjoy it while I can. As long as I am not irresponsible and don’t leave my wife destitute when I am gone, I don’t have a problem with an occasional indulgence.

I ride alone on backcountry roads so I am not trying to showoff to other riders. When I stop to buy water and the shop owners ask how much the bike cost, I deftly sidestep the question to avoid answering. Nobody really needs a bike like this but it sure is a sweet ride and if it adds to my pleasure and motivation, then to me it is worth it.

Why buy a Porsche when a VW will get you from A to B ? Because some people can. My MTB is over 10 yrs old. I hand carried the TREK frame up from Singapore cos nothing my size was available here without a hassle and a high price. I've updated the components 3 times over the years. Now I fancy going back to a road bike ( I've cycled most of my adult life ) and I've reached a stage in my life where my purchases are governed more by what I like than by the price.

If Ultegra and Dura-Ace were really no different than 105 why bother to make them ? They are just the latest design and offer some advantages in materials, longevity, weight and asthetics. (whether I able to exploit any of these is another matter)

This years 11 speed 105 is basically the older super-ceeded Ultegra. The previous 105 was ten speed while 11 speed was only available in the the two higher spec lines. Funny I never commented on Villagefarangs choice of Dura-Ace Di2 and asked why he bothered to spend extra ?

maybe because I realize and applaud the right of others to spend their cash as they see fit. If we can afford it and you can't, too bad. It doesn't mean we made a bad choice just that we indulged ourselves because we felt we deserved it.

Hahaha.. Not rich, just getting old and worried that I have worked and saved/economised too hard. I too have seen plenty of guys with "all the gear, no idea" but I've "made do" for such a long time that I try to spoil myself more now. If the choice of equipment was all a winner needed then the World would be a boring place.

[villagefarang]

If Ultegra and Dura-Ace were really no different than 105 why bother to make them ? They are just the latest design and offer some advantages in materials, longevity, weight and asthetics. (whether I able to exploit any of these is another matter)

I thought Sora and Claris were the latest designs?

It's great that you're rich and have money to burn.

But I always worry the guys that have big money to waste, put off the poorer cyclists with their expensive talk.

And cycling is about age and fitness, not the expense of the bicycle. Cheap bike can easily match expensive bike.

Any day you and your $3000 bicycle want to race me and my $300 bicycle up from CM zoo to Wat Doi Suthep, just LMK.

Then we'll see what really makes the difference.

What would it matter or prove if one of you beat the other in a race? As I get older, I enjoy nicer machines, both automobiles and bicycles. I like and appreciate a higher end automobile with all the bells and whistles, and the same goes for bikes.

Back in the US I just bought my $6 thousand dream bike, because I could and I knew what I wanted. Sure it is way above my capabilities, and I am hoping it is the last bike I ever buy.

And while, at 65 years old, I cannot compete with the tour pros who were using this model on the tours a few short years ago, I have been at it long enough to have the ability to appreciate and discriminate.

If you are happy with your $300 bike, more power to you.

I don’t have your knowledge of bikes so my path to buying a dream bike was a little different. It was sitting in my local shop here in Chiang Rai. They were showing me some other stuff but I saw this sitting in the corner and asked about it. Later I did a little online research and decided what the heck, after discussing it with my wife. When I sold my Ninja 650 I had mentioned to my wife that I might be interested in putting that money into a bike, as a healthier option than a motorcycle, and she agreed.

I only have my mtb to compare it to but I really love the way it feels and performs.

[Pdaz]

isn't it funny how we believe these bikes are indulgences ? We almost seem guilty..

My much younger work crew all think they are just another toy and wonder why I with a higher disposable income than them didn't just buy the top of the range. 3, 4 or even $5000 appears to be a paltry sum to the younger generation..

My first 'proper' racing bike was a forth or fifth hand Reynolds 531 by Peugeot that I paid 25 quid for. Before that I had an odd assortment of Raleigh and other brands all secondhand from the local paper or through word of mouth. My parents both instilled in me the idea of saving and 'not wasting money' So I have lived comfortably but well below my means almost all my life. However I have in the last few years realized that I can't take it with me nor predict exactly when I will shuffle off.

I'm still working so can treat myself when something takes my fancy. But I still like a bargain hence buying the bike in Australia while I was there at work.

It was cheaper than an equivalent model with 105 components that I had looked at in Thailand. So my choice was to either buy a 105 in Oz

( even cheaper still ) or get the Ultegra for less than a 105 in Thailand.. "Bu44er it" I though and went for pricier bike. From past experience, I know that in the coming Months I am less likely to be bothered by the purchase price than by the nagging thought that I had missed out, had I bought the cheapest available. My old man also used to say "you don't want to wake up dead and find you haven't lived'

Something which as I get older i repeat to myself more and more.

[villagefarang]

“So I have lived comfortably but well below my means” sounds very familiar. Because of my parents I started saving and investing at a very young age. People used to call my parents conspicuous under consumers but it paid off in the end.

[moonoi]

I say buy what you like, makes you happy and gets you out there on the bike.

After riding around on my Rabobank replica TCR for the last couple of years, I've decided it's time for a slightly more comfortable option, and gone for a Pinarello Gan RS with Ultegra Di2.

It's actually less expensive than my TCR with mechanical Duraace, but I'm tired of having to tune the gears every time and swap out my wheelset.

And with regards to expensive bikes versus cheaper ones, you might be as quick riding the cheaper bike, but you'll arrive at the top of a hill feeling far fresher on the expensive superlight bike, or you'll get their faster for the same effort.

Anyway, buy what you like, all that matters is whether you are happy or not!

[moonoi]

And for some entertainment

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MaeJoMTB]

I though it was spinning weight that made the difference.

In which case, using a bit of ballast is pointless.

Miss breakfast, pooh and wee and you've lost the ballast.

You'd need to add weight to the wheel rims.

[h90]

if the bike is around 1500USD, great. 105 is as good as ultegra and you don't need anything more (unless you don't care about the cash). 25 mm is the best size, for me. 28mm has a little too much volume when cornering at 70 kph, but maybe you can run them at 80 psi. 23 is good for hill climbs when you can do PSI of like 120.

Most of the serious cyclists say $400-$500 is the best price range, then spend another $200 customizing.

I agree with them.

If you aren't a professional racer, the 2Kg weight the extra $2000+ saves you is irrelevant.

The gear changers, to be honest I can't feel any difference, and I've tried them all (except electronic).

Cassette, just fit the one that suits your strength and terrain.

Rim brakes, it's just the pads that make any difference.

So why pay all that extra money?

Well my Trek is in many details junk. If I would have paid 2000 instead of 1500 USD it would be far more comfortable.

The frame is just designed without love. Hard Aluminum frame + hard Aluminum fork. Would they have put a steel fork it would have been perfect but one argument less for the next more expensive carbon.

[MaeJoMTB]

Well my Trek is in many details junk. If I would have paid 2000 instead of 1500 USD it would be far more comfortable.

The frame is just designed without love. Hard Aluminum frame + hard Aluminum fork. Would they have put a steel fork it would have been perfect but one argument less for the next more expensive carbon.

I'm not comparing old models.

Almost all new basic road bikes come with carbon forks, Trek changed all models to carbon forks in 2013..

My cheap Trek 1.1 is really good for most of it's parts.

Only the brake pads were sub-standard ....... 10 minutes and less than $30 to change.

And as I mainly use it for hill climbs, changed the 11/28 cassette to 11/32.

[moonoi]

I though it was spinning weight that made the difference.

In which case, using a bit of ballast is pointless.

Miss breakfast, pooh and wee and you've lost the ballast.

You'd need to add weight to the wheel rims.

There is no difference where the weight is, on a wheel you get a benefit for half a rotation, so overall it works out the similar whether the weight is static or rotating.

That said, if you want to reduce the weight of your bike easily, the first place to start is the wheels, as that's where you'll get the most bang per buck in weight reductions.

If you do forget to eat, and then attempt a hill climb, your going to run out of energy and end up being slower anyway, you might not even make it to the top.

[MaeJoMTB]

Here is a article on weight difference.

They seem to conclude each 1Kg on a mountain climbs makes a 1% difference in speed.

My $500 Trek 1.1 weighs 9Kg.

If your $3000 bike weighs 6Kg, enjoy your 3% speed increase, I hope it was worth the $2,500!

And here

http://www.smartcycles.com/bike_weight.htm

I like the comment "you can't buy a bike light enough to keep up with me on a climb"

[bobfish]

Recently succumbed to n+1 again [!]. At a 'mature' age, I feel the need for easier gearing. Bike is running a compact, Duraace Di2. Put an Ultegra 11-32 cassette on [ Moonoi's right; not available in 'pro' Duraace] and fitted a longer B screw to compensate. No problem or noticeable degradation to shift quality. So depending on the bike, can be done, but I'm not going to get any KOM's with it!!

VM rule #5?? ....... failed that then

I noticed the 22 gears didn’t give me the super low end for steep climbs but I was climbing at a much faster pace. Guess I will just have to lose weight to help compensate.

You can change the gear setup. Either front a smaller or back a bigger one......

Checking the spec online he can't. It already comes with a compact chainring setup up front and an 11-28 cassette at the rear. So already has the smallest at the front, as far the rear is concerned Duraace can support a max of 28 teeth on the big cog, so has Villagefarang said himself , he'll just have to lose some weight and I suggest a sprinkling of rule #5 http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/#5 ;-)

[SpokaneAl]

Here is a article on weight difference.

They seem to conclude each 1Kg on a mountain climbs makes a 1% difference in speed.

My $500 Trek 1.1 weighs 9Kg.

If your $3000 bike weighs 6Kg, enjoy your 3% speed increase, I hope it was worth the $2,500!

And here

http://www.smartcycles.com/bike_weight.htm

I like the comment "you can't buy a bike light enough to keep up with me on a climb"

I think you may be missing the key part of the author's discussion . . .

"These basically sensuous questions that are beyond simple quantification. It's not a matter of a 73 degree head tube or 18 pounds or 9 sprockets in the rear. It is the whole bike, taken as a whole that must be considered."

That whole bike discussion is what drives many, if not most of us to buy the fancy stuff. Weight, like fitness, is merely part of the discussion.

[MaeJoMTB]

That whole bike discussion is what drives many, if not most of us to buy the fancy stuff. Weight, like fitness, is merely part of the discussion.

There are two Thais that come past me regularly on the climb, fixed gear road bikes, now that saved a lot of weight.

And no argument about how smooth the gear change is.

[puukao]

Oh, no.....more of my 2 cents. Can't help myself.

Mixing tires is more about volume. Some 25s are more like 28s. i would do 23/25 front/back or 25/28 with less PSI in the back. It's simple...find a nice corner, try it.....and you can switch them and try again. experimenting is fun.

you really should use the FRONT brake way more than the rear, before the corner, hard and short, and make sure the road has a good contact patch. it is 80% of the stopping power....if the front tire is massive, breaking hard before a corner with the front brake can change your weight distribution in an unfavorable manner. my experience. mtn biking totally different with front shocks....

i've had 16 lb bikes and 22 lb bikes on the same hill.....say 16 minutes for the light bike, 19 minutes for the heavy bike (fastest versus a slow time). On average, the times might be 17 minutes to 18:30. anyhow, it's more about the stiffness in sprinting uphill, and it just FEELS so much slower. The lighter bike has stiffer wheels, cranks, pedals, etc.....and a stiffer head tube which really matters actually. better vertical compliance, better top tube construction for crosswinds, massive BB for sprinting, etc...

Even if the difference was only a minute or less, that is HUGE....means you have less confidence to beat anyone your same fitness level, and some people like to feel fast and go faster. it costs a little money, ok....

i've been riding forever....i really know what i like, how a bike should feel, etc....like a race car driver who really can feel one tire over the other, .0003 seconds per lap, every torque, etc......and i get it.

outside that hill, on the 22 lb bike i think lost one "race" in 2-years.....legs really matter. and a strong wind will negate about everything...... but flying up a hill and you riding "in the zone" is priceless.

doi suthep sub 35 minutes....on a $1500 bike. True, a $6000 bike would probably be faster, but i got to the ride quality that met my standard. If that costs you $500, $1000, $10000, fine...I've ridden $8000 bikes for a day and didn't care that much. Once you know what to really look for, you can determine if the money is worth it. I do think electronic shifting is worth it....maybe that's next for me.

my 2.5 cents...

[bobfish]

Still off topic, I read an interesting magazine article recently. Here's the online version:

http://www.cyclist.co.uk/in-depth/312/big-hill-or-little-hills

[villagefarang]

Being relatively new to biking I went through a phase of consuming tons of online material on the subject. The vast majority of stuff seemed to be aimed at race-wannabes. I guess I am more of a right brain sort of guy and most of the articles are written for a younger guy with a different wiring in their brains. Probably just as well that I like to ride on my own.

Sure I have a nice bike but I am 61 and weigh 10 kilos more than I would like to. Weightlifting and squash were my preferred pastimes until I injured my shoulder at 50 and couldn’t swing a racquet anymore.

I hadn’t ridden a bike for 40 years, 30 of those spent living in Bangkok, until we moved to Chiang Rai. It was just one of several things I tried and it didn’t stick at first. I ride now because I like the scenery and the feeling I get during and after the ride. I read that I should focus on my cadence but I have stopped monitoring that as I felt less comfortable and efficient at the higher cadence.

Now I only look at my heartbeat, the temperature, speed and distance and try to relate that to how I feel. I have found that the amount of time spent in zone 3 or zone 4 seems to depend a lot on the temperature. I only hit zone 5 on the climbs. The truth is, the thing I analyze the most is how I feel and numbers only get a brief glance.

I really don't get all the arguing about what is best or what is worth it or not. Ride whatever you want and let the other guy do the same. We are not adolescents anymore.

[GarryP]

Being relatively new to biking I went through a phase of consuming tons of online material on the subject. The vast majority of stuff seemed to be aimed at race-wannabes. I guess I am more of a right brain sort of guy and most of the articles are written for a younger guy with a different wiring in their brains. Probably just as well that I like to ride on my own.

Sure I have a nice bike but I am 61 and weigh 10 kilos more than I would like to. Weightlifting and squash were my preferred pastimes until I injured my shoulder at 50 and couldn’t swing a racquet anymore.

I hadn’t ridden a bike for 40 years, 30 of those spent living in Bangkok, until we moved to Chiang Rai. It was just one of several things I tried and it didn’t stick at first. I ride now because I like the scenery and the feeling I get during and after the ride. I read that I should focus on my cadence but I have stopped monitoring that as I felt less comfortable and efficient at the higher cadence.

Now I only look at my heartbeat, the temperature, speed and distance and try to relate that to how I feel. I have found that the amount of time spent in zone 3 or zone 4 seems to depend a lot on the temperature. I only hit zone 5 on the climbs. The truth is, the thing I analyze the most is how I feel and numbers only get a brief glance.

I really don't get all the arguing about what is best or what is worth it or not. Ride whatever you want and let the other guy do the same. We are not adolescents anymore.

Like you I do 99 percent of my riding alone, although in recent months not as often as I would like. I just monitor speed, distance and time (as in is it time to turn around yet). The rest of the time I am taking in scenery (you'd be surprised by what there is to see in the suburbs of BKK), singing my heart out (off tune of course), talking to myself (I always win these debates), and generally enjoying myself. I am not going head down from a to b in the shortest possible time. I want to see what is going on around me. Some people would call it de-stressing. I call it having fun.

[bobfish]

Being relatively new to biking I went through a phase of consuming tons of online material on the subject. The vast majority of stuff seemed to be aimed at race-wannabes. I guess I am more of a right brain sort of guy and most of the articles are written for a younger guy with a different wiring in their brains. Probably just as well that I like to ride on my own.

Sure I have a nice bike but I am 61 and weigh 10 kilos more than I would like to. Weightlifting and squash were my preferred pastimes until I injured my shoulder at 50 and couldn’t swing a racquet anymore.

I hadn’t ridden a bike for 40 years, 30 of those spent living in Bangkok, until we moved to Chiang Rai. It was just one of several things I tried and it didn’t stick at first. I ride now because I like the scenery and the feeling I get during and after the ride. I read that I should focus on my cadence but I have stopped monitoring that as I felt less comfortable and efficient at the higher cadence.

Now I only look at my heartbeat, the temperature, speed and distance and try to relate that to how I feel. I have found that the amount of time spent in zone 3 or zone 4 seems to depend a lot on the temperature. I only hit zone 5 on the climbs. The truth is, the thing I analyze the most is how I feel and numbers only get a brief glance.

I really don't get all the arguing about what is best or what is worth it or not. Ride whatever you want and let the other guy do the same. We are not adolescents anymore.

I couldn't agree more VF; the feeling on a bike is priceless.

- Though the other side of my brain likes this geeky stuff too, even if at the young age of 58 the body isn't as willing. I do like to compare my own segment times to see if the time matches the perceived effort. I'm not getting much fitter, but enjoying the times on my new lightweight bike.

[MaeJoMTB]

Like you I do 99 percent of my riding alone, although in recent months not as often as I would like. I just monitor speed, distance and time (as in is it time to turn around yet). The rest of the time I am taking in scenery (you'd be surprised by what there is to see in the suburbs of BKK), singing my heart out (off tune of course), talking to myself (I always win these debates), and generally enjoying myself. I am not going head down from a to b in the shortest possible time. I want to see what is going on around me. Some people would call it de-stressing. I call it having fun.

On the ride to Doi Suthep, you are never alone.

There is the guy 50m ahead that you are trying to pass, and the guy 50m behind trying to pass you.

Then there's the guys coming down with a nod or wave as the zip by.

[MaeJoMTB]

doi suthep sub 35 minutes....on a $1500 bike.

I'm happy at sub 55 minutes ..... on any price bicycle.

[pagallim]

Like quite a few posters in this thread, I came to cycling relatively late in life, nearly 2 years ago, when for my 61st birthday, I got myself a Trek Madone 3.1. Enjoyed it very much, and over the past 18 months, changed out components seeking a more comfortable ride for the ever increasing distances I was doing (usually between 50 and 200 km, longest being a 300 km earlier this year). Now, the only part remaining from the original bike is the frame itself.

It has 3T carbon seat post, 3T alloy stem, Easton EC90 carbon bars, Ritchey carbon wheels, San Marco Mantra saddle, and a complete Ultegra 6800 drivetrain (which was a big difference from the original 105/Tiagra mix). Strava segment times improved with each upgrade, though obviously that was equally attributable in increased fitness. Comfort wise, one of the best changes I made was switching to 25mm tyres rather than the standard 23mm,

Anyway, cycling is my main hobby, so I started looking for something that would tick all the boxes of the type of cycling I do. Like VF, I settled on the Trek Domane 6.9 Disc. Comfortable, reasonably light, great components etc. A bike for all occasions. Ordered it from my local shop, and arrived 4 days later. That was three weeks ago, but due to our doing extensive renovations to our house at the moment (with a succession of different tradesmen arriving every day) actually had my first ride on it yesterday.

Only 52 km, but a good mix of road conditions and a few short but steep hills (444m elevation gain for the ride). What instantly struck me, was the smoothness of the ride, and the precision and speed of the Dura Ace Di2 drivetrain. The 785 hydraulic brakes, after spending some time to prime the system (getting up to 25-30km/hour then braking hard but not coming to a complete stop, about 12 to 15 times) are really confidence inspiring. I was always very conscious with the Madone and it's carbon wheels, about heat build up, and wet weather performance meant being extra cautious.

[villagefarang]

@pagallim

Another Domane rider, I love it. I just got back from a 67 km ride in great weather and this was the first post I read. Glad you like the bike and I am in complete agreement about the smooth ride. I came from a mtb so didn’t expect a road bike to be so smooth.

I started and ended my ride today in 28 degree weather and it never went over 32. There were lots of puffy clouds to block the sun from time to time. By taking a different route and hugging the mountains I missed a rainstorm but I did get a little road spray as I came up behind it. After I recover a bit I will have to go give the bike a good cleaning.

[SpokaneAl]

Like quite a few posters in this thread, I came to cycling relatively late in life, nearly 2 years ago, when for my 61st birthday, I got myself a Trek Madone 3.1. Enjoyed it very much, and over the past 18 months, changed out components seeking a more comfortable ride for the ever increasing distances I was doing (usually between 50 and 200 km, longest being a 300 km earlier this year). Now, the only part remaining from the original bike is the frame itself.

It has 3T carbon seat post, 3T alloy stem, Easton EC90 carbon bars, Ritchey carbon wheels, San Marco Mantra saddle, and a complete Ultegra 6800 drivetrain (which was a big difference from the original 105/Tiagra mix). Strava segment times improved with each upgrade, though obviously that was equally attributable in increased fitness. Comfort wise, one of the best changes I made was switching to 25mm tyres rather than the standard 23mm,

Anyway, cycling is my main hobby, so I started looking for something that would tick all the boxes of the type of cycling I do. Like VF, I settled on the Trek Domane 6.9 Disc. Comfortable, reasonably light, great components etc. A bike for all occasions. Ordered it from my local shop, and arrived 4 days later. That was three weeks ago, but due to our doing extensive renovations to our house at the moment (with a succession of different tradesmen arriving every day) actually had my first ride on it yesterday.

Only 52 km, but a good mix of road conditions and a few short but steep hills (444m elevation gain for the ride). What instantly struck me, was the smoothness of the ride, and the precision and speed of the Dura Ace Di2 drivetrain. The 785 hydraulic brakes, after spending some time to prime the system (getting up to 25-30km/hour then braking hard but not coming to a complete stop, about 12 to 15 times) are really confidence inspiring. I was always very conscious with the Madone and it's carbon wheels, about heat build up, and wet weather performance meant being extra cautious.

Your bike is an absolute beauty. Since moving to electronic shifting and disc brakes, I don't see myself ever going back.

P.S. As long as we are showing off our rides, here is mine . . .

[villagefarang]

Your bike is an absolute beauty. Since moving to electronic shifting and disc brakes, I don't see myself ever going back.

P.S. As long as we are showing off our rides, here is mine . . .

ImageUploadedByThaivisa Connect1446455170.277090.jpg

Great bike stand and nice color coordination.