Would you do it again?

[khunPer]

Did the trip up and down by sleeper some years ago. Takes approximately 12 hours, depart about 6pm and arrives Chiang Mai around 6am v.v. – and not much to see at night, apart from the experience to travel by train. I took 1st class sleeper, which is a dual bunk bed compartment pretty much like a typical old-time European sleeper; there is an Okay dining-wagon on the train, so can be a cozy trip. I don’t think much, if any, money to save compared to a pair of budget air tickets; but I like to travel by train – or perhaps just be nostalgic and revive long past way of traveling...

An excellent alternative is of course the Orient Express, if one can afford it (still hope to win the lottery).

[menzies233]

I did it about a year and a half ago (just before the coup) and found it a most enjoyable experience. My buddy and I took second class sleepers (he had the upper, I the lower) with a nice Japanese couple opposite. A very sociable party atmosphere prevailed. I would do it again. Only thing I would not order the food on the train again. I found it barely edible. There is a food court right in the station at Chang Mai with some good breakfast on offer. I flew back but that was for scheduling reasons. Definitely give it a try for, as someone said, it can be a nice little adventure.

I guess things must have gone downhill since I last took the trip 17 years ago. Me and my wife took the first class sleeper from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, it said no smoking but the guard didn't mind, they brought excellent food, soups with the little candle burner, really good chicken and rice, beer the lot and not that much more expensive than an ordinary Thai food stall.

It is a painful journey out of Bangkok as it is so slow, but when you pull the blinds as the sun comes up and you are practically in jungle (it was my first trip up North and that was what it looked like at the time bananas all around) in the morning, that is a great way to arrive. Thankfully we got off at Lamphun so didn't see the grot of Chiang Mai station. It was actually even nicer to go out on the rear veranda of the train for a smoke in the evening and watch the world go by, at a pretty slow pace I might add. Well worth it if you haven't tried it yet.

[richard_smith237]

I've done the over night trains from:

- Hat-Yai to Bangkok: Once in 2nd Class Aircon Sleeper overnight / Once in a 1st Class Sleeper overnight.

- Bangkok to Chiang Mai: Twice in a 2nd Class Aircon Sleeper Overnight.

- KL to Hat Yai: Once in a 2nd Class Aircon Sleeper Overnight.

This has been enough to consider the experience 'experienced' and tick the boxes. I wouldn't do it again. That said, taking the train in Thailand is an experience in itself and worth doing at least once.

Making the decision to take the train depends whether or not you simply want to 'get there' or 'experience the journey getting there'.

In Summary, the journey is long, tiring and boring after a while, but its worth trying.

Scenery in the morning is worth seeing. Like many experiences, I'm glad I tried it in my 20's... With friends, cards, some beers and plenty of snacks.

[ChrisKC]

Thank you for all your comments

Are you able to take your own food and beer on the train?

Also, keen to know what the ticket inspector scam was all about I find that if you know about the scams you are less likely to get caught?

I have travelled up and down the BKK Chiang Mai Railway line for 12 years. There is no problem with taking beer and your own food, Many Thais seem to have a few picnics on this long trip.

Is the journey "worth it"? From a financial point of view, If you can book enough in advance with a budget airline, flying can be cheaper but you won't see anything apart from two airports but clean and only takes an hour.

The night train BKK to Chaing Mai affords only scenery from Den Chai onwards as someone has said, but it's truly the way to see between the mountains on a lovely sunny morning.

In that 12 years, nothing much (including the fares) has changed; all the carriages and engines are the same, the line is the same. it's a great experience but not what I would call the regular businessman's way to travel.

Last year I did a trip from Bkk to Chaing Mai 3rd class (B214 if I remember) that took 19 hours. It wasn't as bad I thought it would be but I am a resigning, tolerant, patient sort of man. Then I cycled from the station to my home 35 kms away

[SoiBiker]

There is very much a problem with taking beer. It's forbidden, and there are police on the trains.

[bazza40]

I thought it was hell.

People talking all night, slower than the coach, and I was scammed by the ticket collector.

Not something I will ever repeat.

Have you tried an overnight bus trip from Bangkok to CM? Like being in a prison camp. Once and once only.

[PeeJay1959]

There is very much a problem with taking beer. It's forbidden, and there are police on the trains.

Who probably confiscate it then drink it themselves

[dogpatch55]

Yeah did it a few years back, would rather use the train than a bus..

[Fairynuff]

I thought it was hell.

People talking all night, slower than the coach, and I was scammed by the ticket collector.

Not something I will ever repeat.

Done it hundreds of times to CM and Penang. Always enjoyed it. Can't imagine how you can get scammed by the ticket collector if you have a ticket!! Please elaborate

[dick turpin]

A once in a lifetime experience for sure.

As my girlfriend of the time commented

I could fly from London to Bangkok

quicker than this 12+ hour train ride.

[Janner1]

Took it once CM to Bkk, never again!

Had a skunk in the seat in front who would not keep still,along came the food and water in an open cup, put the cup on the backseat tray to get hold of the other two items "fatal move" but I only have two hands.

The skunk in front fully dressed in its saffron robe slammed back into the seat,AHHHH the tray collapsed propelled the water straight into my lap result 14 hours with wet seat and crotch.

Buddha may well have been looking down on the skunk but he sure as hell was not looking down on me,

well he may have been and probably laughing his sandals off

[alien365]

I've done the over night trains from:

- Hat-Yai to Bangkok: Once in 2nd Class Aircon Sleeper overnight / Once in a 1st Class Sleeper overnight.

- Bangkok to Chiang Mai: Twice in a 2nd Class Aircon Sleeper Overnight.

- KL to Hat Yai: Once in a 2nd Class Aircon Sleeper Overnight.

This has been enough to consider the experience 'experienced' and tick the boxes. I wouldn't do it again. That said, taking the train in Thailand is an experience in itself and worth doing at least once.

Making the decision to take the train depends whether or not you simply want to 'get there' or 'experience the journey getting there'.

In Summary, the journey is long, tiring and boring after a while, but its worth trying.

Scenery in the morning is worth seeing. Like many experiences, I'm glad I tried it in my 20's... With friends, cards, some beers and plenty of snacks.

Apart from the cards you wrote exactly the same as I feel. Great experience but after a few times and the difficulty sleeping then flying just makes sense. If you're with the missus and you want to sleep together it's not very comfy. Depending on the train layout, I wouldn't leave my missus in a bunk alone either. Oh and the toilets.... For a man fine, to let your missus use....

[alien365]

There is very much a problem with taking beer. It's forbidden, and there are police on the trains.

I've not been on the train for a year but I have never had a problem with beer. Unfortunately that worker who will rot in hell for his actions ruined it for all. If you were to have a problem now, see it like a festival experience. Bkk to cm doesn't have private cabins. If you have your own cabin like 2nd class sleepers from the south take a keg with you and enjoy! Edited December 4, 2015 by alien365

[jaybas]

me and the wife have booked a sleeper from bangkok to CM twice now. both times were great. we had dinner in the dinner car, the diner car was not full, we sat for 3 hours eating, drinking and playing card games. while we were dining, they had come into our small sleeper and turned the beds down. went to sleep and about 5-6 in the morning, knocked on door to wake us up for arrival. well worth it. had no problem with beer....ice cold and plenty of it. The wife likes wine, she had brought a bottle on the train. I went to the diner car upon arrival, I gave the steward 100 baht to put the wine on ice. When we came in for dinner, the wine was cold, she was happy, the beer was cold, I was happy. Again...great trip.

Edited December 4, 2015 by jaybas

[Shaunduhpostman]

Before the coup, Thai trains were derailing monthly, mostly along the Chiang Mai route. Since the coup, there are no more reports of this. I find it difficult to believe that suddenly the horrendous record of Thai trains had been inexplicably corrected right then and there once there was a govt. changeover. Of course, even with a monthly derailment, and they were usually happening with no fatalities, the odds are you'll be able to make the trip unscathed. I used to enjoy the trip by train to Chiang Mai, but the principal of giving my money to Thai rail who just let derailment after derailment happen for several years prevents me. Its not that expensive to take Air Asia and you'll get that much more time in Chiang Mai, may well do the same thing myself soon.

[AjarnMartin]

I stupidly thought that a First Class overnight journey would be a perfect way of arriving in Chiang Mai after a long, European flight some ten years ago. I even paid to have the compartment to myself. The rolling stock was so old and in disrepair that I regretted the decision immediately but was resigned to it. Like others have commented, the journey took forever and was stop-start for 14 hours, mainly because of being constantly routed onto branch lines on a single track railway system. The food was inedible. Never, never, never again!!!

[SoiBiker]

Took it once CM to Bkk, never again!

Had a skunk in the seat in front who would not keep still,along came the food and water in an open cup, put the cup on the backseat tray to get hold of the other two items "fatal move" but I only have two hands.

The skunk in front fully dressed in its saffron robe slammed back into the seat,AHHHH the tray collapsed propelled the water straight into my lap result 14 hours with wet seat and crotch.

Buddha may well have been looking down on the skunk but he sure as hell was not looking down on me,

well he may have been and probably laughing his sandals off

There's no seat in front of you or seat back tray on the sleeper train.

[SoiBiker]

Before the coup, Thai trains were derailing monthly, mostly along the Chiang Mai route. Since the coup, there are no more reports of this. I find it difficult to believe that suddenly the horrendous record of Thai trains had been inexplicably corrected right then and there once there was a govt. changeover. Of course, even with a monthly derailment, and they were usually happening with no fatalities, the odds are you'll be able to make the trip unscathed. I used to enjoy the trip by train to Chiang Mai, but the principal of giving my money to Thai rail who just let derailment after derailment happen for several years prevents me. Its not that expensive to take Air Asia and you'll get that much more time in Chiang Mai, may well do the same thing myself soon.

It's less to do with the coup, and more to do with the fact that they closed the line for repairs for several months.

[canarysun]

Hello Viewers!

Or you could just take the ordinary carriage on a " not so fast train " for a cool 275 baht & sit back on the wooden bench ( seat ) throw your watch out of the window and enjoy a real adventure..........

# It should be noted that this journey would not be suitable to any of our older viewers who wear a Syrup of Fig ( wig ) ...

F.J x

[Broeno]

For some time i was flying every week from CM to Bangkok untill somebody advises me to take the train as it should be a wonderfull experience. The train left in CM in the late afternoon. Two hours to see something of the nature, but one hour was not worthwile. As i sleept in the upper bed, i was shaking from the left to the richt, and up and down. Could not sleep the whole night.

When the train finally got in to Bangkok, it took 4 more hours to get to the train station and went at a speed that i could walk.

After 14 Hours the tRain arrived at the Bangkok trainstation. I was totally broken.

For me the first and the last time. One hour for 1400 bht or 850 for 14 hours of misery. I know what to do.

[DerringDo]

Had a great time BKK to CM a few times over the years. Always first class with the wife and kids. Food was fine. Toilets clean and shower head worked well. Liked waking up to see the lay of the land from Den Chai? Onwards. Cool and crisp in the winter and warm to hot in the summer. Always took a book in the beginning and now it's iPads for amusement.

Time is never that precious that I'm in a rush to get to CM and I enjoy the train.

We once travelled to Surat Thani by train and the only downside was the ripe backpackers. Missus' nose didn't stop twitching?

Definitely trips worth repeating again and again though.

[Sandy Freckle]

I really enjoy train journeys..., and I'm seriously giving the journey between Bkk and CM some consideration. But, I am undecided as to traveling 1st class sleeper for the sheer comfort..., or second class sleeper(fan) for the sheer community and entertainment aspect involved. I'll be traveling solo....., I guess (like everything) one's personal security is one's own responsibility.
One question...., are 1st class passengers allowed to go and co-mingle with cattle class ? ;-)

Edited December 4, 2015 by Sandy Freckle

[stoli]

Definitely take the over nighter and get the first class sleeper as the first poster stated,is quite enjoyable.

Doing an overnighter would mean not seeing Thailand at all, which would be my point of using the train. I am also told that the train costs more than flying. Am I wrong in my thinking? I guess If you love taking trains, it is another bucket list item, but I don't understand why.

[Farang99]

1st class can be a cold, lonely & boring experience. 2nd class much more of an interesting social occasion & cheaper.

==============================

Back in the 1970;s and 1980's did 4 2nd class overnight sleeper runs by train from Bangkok to Penang/Georgetown on Visa Runs.

Getting to old for that sort of thing now (68 years), but if I could, would do it again.

Good memories of that time and train journey.... not only in Thailand but years later in Vietnam also (2011).

Yes if I could I would do it again.

When I first landed in Malaya in 1959 I took the train from Singapore (then still a British colony) where my ship from UK docked, to Ipoh in Perak, Malaya (newly independent). Very long and slow, but a fascinating introduction to a new country and I made several good friends who have stood the test of time.

[sandyf]

We have done several overnights on the Thai trains and CM is the best of them. First class are ex Japanese with single berth cabins and very comfortable. If a couple get 2 adjoining cabins and it becomes like a twin bed hotel room. All the first class cabins have their own air con control but on the CM train there is nobody 'upstairs' near the vents.

Alcohol is not a problem if you are in first class, and the cracks are starting to show. When we came back from Udon Thani in August there was a guy on the train selling beer.

[Fairynuff]

In my opinion it's not worth paying double to travel first class, it's not that great unless you want the privacy. In second class you at least have the opportunity to meet other people....but you might hear them snoring. On the return CM to BKK there always seems to be large groups of French joining at Lampang. They have packed dinners in boxes and tend to be noisy and inconsiderate of people around them, yes I know it's a generalisation but that's my experience!

My biggest gripe is that the crew want to get everyone to bed by 7pm and get pissed off if you want to stay up later. Thai travelers tend to do as they're told but foreigners prefer to stay up. If you challenge the crew by saying you want to go later they'll disappear until around 10pm.

I wouldn't use the standard non air trains because they're older, less comfortable and very noisy if you have the windows open. The aircon trains can be quite cold.

[4evermaat]

Train to Uttaradit, Bangkok, and Penang (butterworth)

2nd class air sleeper, and always the overnight trains. Convenient and comfortable. Never a problem, and you have the daytime the following day to do what you want.

The bus is ok for long distances. But try to get a 1st class or VIP express bus that makes few stops. Easy to do in BKK to another major city.

Air travel is limited to a few major cities, and only certain times. CM《》BKK would have several budget flights. Phuket《》CM would definetly be worth the flight.

It's a question of timing.

BTW, you could opt for a 2nd class fan sleeper. Again, overnight would be better for the heat.

Edited December 5, 2015 by 4evermaat

[ByblosYuNaiSoi]

RE Food and beer: yes, I always take my own. (in private first class sleeper). Just be a bit subtle, and politely decline offers of food for sale. I have had the Thai breakfast porridge. It's ok, but coffee is horrible. You could heat your own water with the power socket in the room if you have the gear.

Generally, it's really really nice. Great views of national park, etc. Slow but steady in my experience.

You must book in advance in person or with an agent. Online impossible at this time (I believe).

[SoiBiker]

You can book online through https://12go.asia/en

[elgenon]

I would wait until the trains become privatized. I booked a sleeper and was besieged by cockroaches at dusk. Tried to lay down but felt one on my lower lip. Needless to say I got no sleep. They didn't want to let me go to the dining car. Refused to tell me which direction it was. They wanted me to order food brought to me so the server could make money. Never again.