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Drilling ceramic tiles


hackjam

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Yup, I have the same problem, ceramic floor tiles use up bits like nobodies business.

 

Keep the speed down and use coolant (water). I just re-sharpen the bit after each hole.

 

If you can find diamond bits they will last longer, but don't be tempted to use hammer.

 

 

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I'm curious to know why you want to drill holes in the floor, but whatever...

 

There are special drill bits for ceramic tile.  They look kind of like an arrow head.  

 

Otherwise, I first use a center punch to make a small chip in the tile, then using my smallest cement drill (with no hammer to avoid chipping) to make initial hole, then using the size I need cement drill to finish.

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2 minutes ago, Crossy said:

Yup, I have the same problem, ceramic floor tiles use up bits like nobodies business.

 

Keep the speed down and use coolant (water).

 

If you can find diamond bits they will last longer, but don't be tempted to use hammer. I just re-sharpen the bit after each hole.

 

 

 

is it the way i read your post  or do you sharpen diamond bits  ??

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55 minutes ago, hackjam said:

Drilling holes for door stops

 

I used epoxy resin to secure a doorstop for my main front door. It worked perfectly. 

 

I left the house after a few years and then went back again after another three.

 

Someone had ground off the door stop and left a small circle of epoxy.   default_facepalm.gif

 

Edit:

Just checked: the base of the doorstop is still there default_biggrin.png  So epoxy is OK if you're really really sure you want it there.

 

door stop DSC05963.JPG

Edited by JetsetBkk
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You can buy these diamond drill bits designed for tile to make hole through the tile itself - they work great in regular drill mode and do not slide.

309.jpg

Once into the backing cement or brick use regular masonry drill bit to drill out to require depth and you can use hammer mode.

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I buy at HomePro here in Bangkok - suspect any large building supply store will have as quite common these days - in the past could be hard to find as most local workers do not want to change bits and they do not last long if used in cement much - and a lot more expensive than the normal cheap masonry bits used.  But for me they pay off by getting the start exactly where you want and without any chipping (even if done at tile joint).  Having wife am subject to strict oversight controls.  

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2 hours ago, lopburi3 said:

You can buy these diamond drill bits designed for tile to make hole through the tile itself - they work great in regular drill mode and do not slide.

309.jpg

Once into the backing cement or brick use regular masonry drill bit to drill out to require depth and you can use hammer mode.

69695_P&$prodImageMedium$

 

Just for other listening in....yeap...yeap....ditto to above.  It's what I do also.  The arrow head shaped bits drill through ceramic tile pretty easily without damage/chipping of the tile where masonry bits will have a hard time and frequently chip or even crack the tile.   Once through the tile you should switch to the regular masonry bit.  Although the arrow shaped bit will drill through the concrete with ease, drilling into concrete will also shorten the bit's life span...and these arrow head shaped bits are a little pricey in comparison to the regular masonry bits.

 

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Yeah good but diamond ones are a phaeng in the wallet.

I put a small piece of sellotape over marked drilling place then use a very small size masonry bit first there cheaper :D  then go to the bigger size the bigger ones l find last longer that way.   

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On 18 September 2016 at 6:35 PM, hackjam said:

Drilling holes for door stops

If you are doing that then the holes are not small so for 11mm and up 

http://richontools.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_5

 

starting price is $1.10 +shipping for 11mm 

they are basically priced in $ per mm  so 20mm is $2, 25mm is $2.50, 40mm is $4.00 etc.

image.jpeg

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I simply place masking tape over the the spot I intend on drilling. Silver duct tape works too.  The tape allows for extra traction until the drill bites past the glazing slick outer covering. Start slow and use water to cool the drill bit (masonry). I use a simple water sprayer. Apply steady pressure and slowly increase the drill speed. Be patient.  Never have any issues. Never use a center punch you'll likely to crack the tile. Start with a small diameter then the one size you need.  I've found if the insert says 8mm hole I always go down one to two mm. The drills then to wobble and the hole gets larger than planned.

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