Crossy

Do you mean the actual technical workings of the electronics? OR Are you confused by the available displays?

@Batty what is your aim? To just protect your PC and shut down safely, or keep running/working for a period of time (minutes, hours, days)? Different requirements mean different animals.

They usually turn up on the next bill (unless the refund was close to the billing time). Oddly, they don't appear online until the actual billing time (but the transactions then appear in the "right" place on the statement). I'd give it until your next billing cycle, but look for the transaction against the actual refund date.

Yup driving millstones. The amazing thing is that they're still operating and in use.

These amazing windmills are among the oldest in the world. Located in the Iranian town of Nashtifan, initially named Nish Toofan, or "storm's sting," the windmills have withstood winds of up to 74 miles an hour. With the design thought to have been created in eastern Persia between 500-900 A.D., they have been in use for several centuries.

10,000W at 220V is 45.5A your 40A breaker will probably go "click". 6mm2 THW is rated at 48A in free air. It's on the line without taking into account any de-rating for environment. Probably OK for a shower heater. It's also worth noting that if you have the "normal" 15/45 meter your heater alone will be using all of the rated capacity of your supply. Are you sure you really need that much oomph?

8kW at 220V is 36A. Your 40A breaker should be fine, cable size would be 6mm2. Note: - If you already have 4mm2 cable installed then, unless you have teenage kids who spend hours in the shower, that would (just) be OK.

I would think a 6 or 8kW would suit most but ... You may (almost certainly) need to upgrade your wiring to suit the larger heater. EDIT If you really want skin-removal hot then consider an LPG heater but they do need to be installed correctly to avoid danger from carbon monoxide!

For Asean Now the link is in my post above

To a Brit there's only one possibility: -

Also, is your feed to the pond area underground? Isolate it where it emerges and test (maybe run a temporary above ground feed).

From my earlier post: - I suspect your RCD is right on the brink trip wise, possibly there's a switch-on surge that pushes it over the edge but running on inverter softens that or maybe lack of a N-E bond in the inverter just defeats the RCD for long enough. The above is pure speculation based upon experience, but I really don't know exactly why you are seeing this. So, we just have to use the scatter-gun approach, eliminating the easy stuff first. To actually measure the leakage current requires some specialist equipment (a low reading AC clamp ammeter). You may find that simply swapping the RCD with another will solve the issue. The requirements for an RCD are that they must NOT trip at 50% of the rated current and that the MUST trip at 100% of the rated current. So, a "30mA" RCD could trip anywhere between 15mA and 30mA, a pretty big range. By the way, you really shouldn't be running your inverter with no N-E bond (or at least an earthed neutral - but check the manual) as it defeats downstream RCDs.

Not in this forum but there is an accommodation finding forum. https://aseannow.com/forum/73-thailand-accommodation-finding-forum/

If it's isolated down to the pond the it should be "reasonably" easy. Check everything is dry of course. I've had submersible pumps leak and start tripping the RCD, the only fix then is a new pump I'm afraid.

Oops, sorry about that. I suspect your RCD is right on the brink trip wise, possibly there's a switch-on surge that pushes it over the edge but running on inverter softens that or maybe lack of a N-E bond in the inverter just defeats the RCD for long enough. Is it just one circuit that trips? What's on that circuit?

I really wouldn't be so sure, but let's isolate which circuit has the problem.

RCD problems seem to be en-vogue at present, at least that's one off the list

OK, now it gets harder. Please take great care!! First check with your meter that you have a high resistance between the N bar and the E bar (power off of course) Assuming that's OK. Disconnect about half of the blue wires from the neutral bar and then try the RCD. If it stays on, then connect the blue wires one by one until it doesn't (ideally you should use an insulation tester, but one assumes you don't have one). Otherwise pull the remaining blue wires, hopefully with them all off the RCD stays on. You are trying to isolate which neutral has an issue to earth. So, connect your blues one by one, trying the RCD each time. Hopefully you will end up with one that trips the beast. "All" you have to do then is check that circuit for damp / ants / rat damage etc. .

Unless something is actually fizzing, I doubt there's an issue there (at least not one that would cause your RCD problems). Step by step, no point throwing money at it until we know what's actually wrong.

Well, with that bond the RCD has no chance of remaining on. If you want to implement a MEN system the bond must be between the E bar and the INCOMING neutral (so the blue wire on the main switch). So, for now remove the link so we can see if you still have RCD issues.

Great. I get really worried if I can see bare copper, zooming in I can just make out the covers

Ah, maybe I see it. Is that a green/yellow from the bottom of the N bar round to the E bar? With that link there it's not surprising the RCD won't stay on. Do you have an earth rod?