Crossy

Yeah, the app does now accept PP numbers, it was along while back that we did ours. I stand corrected 🙂

If you have an old bill for the reference numbers (in order to set it up) try the PEA app 🙂 You will need a "valid" Thai ID, your pink card should work, or your GF/BF ID, failing that there are apps that will generate an ID that works. If you have a Thai bank account you can just scan the QR/bar code, open a fresh account just for these payments if you're paranoid.

Hi, and welcome to the madhouse that is Thai electrics The only "inspection" that is actually required here is the initial MEA/PEA inspection in order to get a permanent meter after construction, after that anything goes, literally (unless you instal solar). When we built our place the inspector had the lid off the CU (actually, I took the lid off, he had no tools), checked that we had an earth rod and MEN connection then spent half an hour gassing with Madam and asking who built our home, he made no actual measurements whatever, it was purely visual. As a UK trained sparks you are probably far better qualified than any of the normal local domestic chaps. There's really no EICR equivalent so any inspection would be for your own peace of mind. There are some excellent Thai sparks but they're all working in O&G or the mega-projects and wouldn't dirty their hands with house bashing 😞 In reality, if you did the job to BS7671 standards and didn't use ring-finals on 32A MCBs you're really good to go**. If you really want a local to go over it, then trot over to your local MEA/PEA office, they usually have guys who are not averse to a bit of moonlighting (ask the supervisor who they recommend). ** If you did use rings, split them about half way and put each half on a 20A MCB, safe as far as the Thai unfused 16A outlets are concerned and you get an extra 8A as a bonus 🙂

Visble progress this week. We should get the tiles up next week and possibly the maintenance (panel cleaning) walkway. Inverter #4 is in and under test using one of the existing panel strings. These MaxSky Solar branded units are identical in every way to the Deye units, even the same firmware version. Works perfectly with the existing units and Solar Assistant, plus they are $$$ cheaper. The neighbours have installed wind-turbines!

Yeah, bushes = those sintered-bronze bearings that dry out eventually.

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I'm not sure what he was trying with the porcupine, but it didn't like it ...

Particularly when your Thai grand-daughter has this as her Facebore picture. Yes, she lives up to her logo!

Do you really need an excuse to get more storage?

I just completed this quiz. My Score 50/100 My Time 98 seconds  

Just a FYI, Lazada have bearing kits for the common fans, replace those dried out sintered-bronze bearings with pukka ball bearings. Newer fans already have balls, you can buy just the bearings and re-use the rubber bits (check out your local bearings, sprockets and cogs shop). Save some $$$ and save the planet!

It's not rocket-science and certainly not beyond a competent DIYer who has some electrical knowledge. There's loads of helpful experience here and on another dedicated-solar forum. If you're even slightly unsure, ask!

Assuming you may install a 10kW inverter then that's about 45A. I would go for a switch rated for double that, the ratings of these things are often somewhat optimistic and you really don't want anything getting hot. I would worry that a local sparks wouldn't understand what he's doing 😞

"CT" is the Current Transformer that an on-grid hybrid uses to prevent energy export to the grid. From the manual it looks like your inverter doesn't do "grid-sync" so it doesn't have/need a CT. We have 20kW of inverter (soon to be 25kW) so for our ATS we got a "big-bu99er" https://www.lazada.co.th/products/ats-4p-100a-250a-400v-dual-power-ats-automatic-transfer-switch-3s-i2082390437-s6849512715.html? It's actually a 3-phase unit but wired for single-phase so good for 200A if you believe the blurb. Note that you wire the ATS so the "grid" terminals go to your inverter and the "generator" terminals to the mains, so it works in the opposite manner to what you would use if it's switching a genset. Here he is in his home, there's extra salad-dressing in there, an energy meter and relays to operate a change-over contactor and trigger the genset auto-start. Genset runs when both grid and inverter are off. It's never happened except when I was testing!

Edited drawing from earlier to show transfer switch.

Yes, that's how we are connected so when there's no grid we have no water heaters, but when there's grid the water heaters run from the inverters unless I actually turn off the grid-inverter breaker. I've also got a couple of outlets on the grid in the car-port for the welder etc.

Not there! Your hybrid inverter will have a Grid input that goes to your meter (hopefully via a breaker) and a Load output that goes to your distribution board/consumer unit. Before we go too far down this rabbit hole please let us know exactly which inverter you have (post a photo of the rating plate on the side), We should be able to find a manual online. Whilst you're at it post some photos of your existing system so we can see what's what and what's not 🙂 This is from the Deye manual, but you should have something similar. EDIT Inserted a better drawing.

You need to add another breaker between the grid and the inverter Grid input (it should actually already be there) then you can completely bypass the inverter and isolate the inverter input so you can safely work on/replace the beast. We are using a big automatic transfer switch wired so that if the inverter output fails, we switch to grid if available (or starts the genset if it's not). It means Madam doesn't need to do anything if it goes belly-up whilst I'm away. EDIT If the handle is straight up both inverter output and grid are OFF.

Some are, but I'm not one of them. If it's just for calling phones then Localphone looks like a reasonable solution. We shall see exactly what the migration to Teams looks like on that front.