Crossy

Try this: - You can repair Windows 7 and fix corrupt files without a CD/DVD by using the built-in System File Checker (SFC) tool and the Deployment Imaging Service and Management Tool (DISM). Here’s how to do it: Using System File Checker (SFC) Open Command Prompt as Administrator: - Click on the Start menu. - Type cmd in the search box. - Right-click on Command Prompt and select Run as administrator. Run SFC Command: - In the Command Prompt, type the following command and press Enter: sfc /scannow - This process will scan all protected system files and replace corrupted files with a cached copy. It may take some time to complete. Review the Results: - After the scan is complete, you will see a message indicating whether any issues were found and if they were fixed. Using DISM (if SFC fails) If SFC doesn’t fix the issues, you can use DISM to repair the Windows image. Open Command Prompt as Administrator: - Follow the steps above to open Command Prompt as an administrator. Run DISM Command: - Type the following command and press Enter: DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth - This command will check for component store corruption and repair it. It may take some time to complete. Run SFC Again: - After DISM has completed its process, it’s a good idea to run the SFC scan again: sfc /scannow Additional Steps Check for Windows Updates: Sometimes installing the latest updates can resolve underlying issues. Use System Restore: If you have restore points set up, you can restore your system to a previous state where it was functioning correctly. Access this via Control Panel > System and Security > System > System Protection. Note If these methods do not resolve the issues, you may need to consider more advanced recovery options, such as using recovery software or reinstalling Windows 7, which typically requires installation media.

Noooooooooo!! On second thoughts, if he's over there he's not in DIY!!

Any issues with 3rd-party toners? PM me with the Baht n Sold details.

I ought to know having worked on Purple, it's probably in my archives somewhere. They will definitely expire after a fixed time probably same as BTS. At which point we will all get moved anyway 😞

I had cause to use my MRT "Elder" card on Wednesday, and, for a change, checked the fare charged against what the ticket machines would want. I am still getting the 50% discount 🙂 I will continue using it until someone tells me to stop Of course, I will avoid any contact with staff and top the card up at the ticket machines.

We all know the drill! A mate (yes, really) ordered a colour laser printer, shipping from China, the price was about 50% of what the same units are from local sellers. Today he got a delivery ... And a free gift ... Of course, the order is now "delivered" and the 7 days return timer has started. He'll wait a couple of days "just in case", then trigger a dispute! More news as it happens!

Individual RCBOs are available here for both DIN and plug-in (Schneider/Square-D, BTIcino) consumer units. DIN have the advantage of being pretty universal "do what you like" boxes, plug-in is quick and easy but restricts your configuration choices. All the major brands are here, ABB, etc. etc. If you can find a specialist outlet rather than the big DIY stores they will have (or be able to order) the rarer gear. If you must import kit, get it from the UK, Europe, Aus/NZ. The US electrical system is sufficiently different that US components may not operate correctly or even be destroyed!

I DO have a Platinum Amex, and I'll be joining you in the pub. "Fine dining" really has never floated my boat.

Unfortunately, the solar companies have you over a barrel, particularly if you intend exporting (legally) to the grid. The regulations require use of approved equipment and (the expensive bit) an approved installer. We DIY'd an effectively off-grid system, only using the grid for our water heaters (which keeps the meter moving) and charging the batteries in the event of a few dull days. Global House used to do installed systems at sensible prices, but their website search seems to have been "upgraded" to "totally useless". If you have a local branch, they would be well worth a chat.

Have a read of this page https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earthing_system Thailand is TNC-S with MEN (Multiple Earthed Neutral) which is essentially the same as Aus who have one of the safest systems in the known universe, the UK isn't far behind (many Brits would argue here!) although the UK version of MEN is called PME (Protective Multiple Earthing). Both MEN and PME are part of the mitigation of an open neutral, also the neutral is the top wire on the poles so it's likely to be the last wire to be damaged. Reversed L&N at the meter does happen, we had one member who noticed his kitchen floor was getting warm where the earth rod was located. Turned out to be a swapped L&N. Thailand has no regulation that would preclude you using TT (but it wouldn't pass a PEA or MEA inspection for a permanent supply), so if you don't like the look of the N-E link you can eliminate it at the cost of reduced overall safety. Going TT would make RCD/RCBO mandatory for protection from shock in the event of a L to appliance metalwork fault.

It's 150k per YEAR Bill 😞

Beware Huawei inverters! Many, if not all, use expensive high-voltage batteries and third-party units are not available, so future expansion may be prohibitively expensive.

This would be my thinking too. We are only single-phase but are running 3 x Deye 5kW hybrids. Water heaters are on the grid side of the inverters so I can run them purely on-grid or via the grid-tie (zero-export) inverter function. Just open one breaker and everything except the heaters is off-grid.

Good call on using RCBOs. As a minimum I would install a separate 2-pole isolator on the incoming supply, before it goes to your box. This will allow you to completely isolate from the grid and work on your kit with no chance of live wires. Definitely decent surge protection (60kA or more). Ensure you have a proper ground and MEN connection. You might want to get an over-size DIN rail box so you can add transfer switches etc. as and when required. Dependent upon exactly how you install your solar you may not actually need one. This PEA document is worth a peruse Groundwire Mk2 book-Manual.pdf The relevant diagram with my translations.

Sadly, none of the above. The only actually required inspection (and pretty cursory at that) of domestic installations is by the supply authority when they provide the permanent meter. Regulations regarding domestic supplies are pretty minimal, but as a minimum I would insist that the replacement box has earth leakage protection and a proper ground connection. You might want to give this PEA document to the relevant people. Groundwire Mk2 book-Manual.pdf The relevant diagram (my translations), really aimed at houses but the same principles apply.

We actually moved away from a contactor-based ATS. The issue is that if the control gear fails ALL the contactors open (fail safe) leaving you with no power from any source. This is not good if I'm in Cairo at the time. We moved to a "slow" motor-drive transfer switch which with no drive power just stays wherever it was beforehand. It also has an isolation key switch and a handle to manually select the source. Madam can handle this (with instruction) in the event of a total power failure. We just rely on simple UPSs to keep the technology on should the beast actually have to switch over.