AlbionThailand Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 The wife and I have just complete the building of a 2nd home. We designed it and had it built to our specifications.....almost! In the area where the roof tiles hang over the eaves (arrow on the attached image), I wanted no fascia board, just a decent gap to allow ventilation. Instead of fascia boards, there would be some mesh to avoid nasty critters entering the roof but still allowing a decent breeze in the attic area. I also wanted to install some ducts in each of the 1st floor rooms to allow heat to rise and escape. When I was on a trip, the builder thought this was a hare-brained idea and abandoned it. Would I see any noticable reduction in interior house temperature if I did this? Would appreciate advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJM1950 Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 It's no good putting vents in the facia if there is no where for the hot air to get out. In Aus, we call them a 'whirly bird', spinning ventilator. Put a few on the backside of the roof near the apex to let the hot air out. make sure they are flashed properly, you don't want leaks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irlguy1 Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 Mesh won't stop mice and snakes and bugs. Leaving the gap won't make it any cooler and without that fascia board when it rains heavy with some wind all that water is gonna blow back into the attic as it comes off the roof.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJM1950 Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 It's a bit late now, but they could have cut out the facia for some louvered vents with mosquito netting on the back. I doubt you'd get the water blowing back like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irlguy1 Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 It's a bit late now, but they could have cut out the facia for some louvered vents with mosquito netting on the back. I doubt you'd get the water blowing back like that.Trust me you will definitely have the water blow back. I have seen it first hand.It's simple physics. Water moves direction when blown. Surely you have witnessed water blowing in an open window?Now multiply that by the gallons coming off the roof in a steady downpour plus high winds.It's a disaster waiting to happen Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petermik Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 You can buy "eaves fillers" which are lengths of plastic with profiles matching your roof tiles,they can be bought quite cheaply at any Watsadu store,keeps the birds/rats out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirineou Posted September 2, 2018 Share Posted September 2, 2018 The minimal advantage (if any) of the increased ventilation, does not justify the additional work, danger from criter, and water infiltration. IMO the builder did you a favor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted September 2, 2018 Share Posted September 2, 2018 Since you have gables you could install louvred gable-vents with internal critter screens. One at each end and any breeze will shift air through the loft space. We have these in both ends of all our roof spaces, work well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mogandave Posted September 6, 2018 Share Posted September 6, 2018 Looks like it has vents in the gables. There are good wind-driven rain louvers available that will stop water penetration in 100kmh winds. “Whole House” fans seem to be gaining popularity, these typically install in the ceiling access opening, drawing the air from the interior of the house, and exhaust out the gable vents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackcab Posted September 8, 2018 Share Posted September 8, 2018 Moved to the DIY Forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayned Posted September 8, 2018 Share Posted September 8, 2018 On 8/31/2018 at 12:40 PM, petermik said: You can buy "eaves fillers" which are lengths of plastic with profiles matching your roof tiles,they can be bought quite cheaply at any Watsadu store,keeps the birds/rats out I have the plastic fillers, they are tacked to the large fascia and then a smaller thinner fascia is installed flush with the roof to cover the installation. Been there for 18 years and works fine. You have gable vents which allow the hot air from the attic to escape and it is replaced by the air that is drawn in from under the roof panels. Do not completely close off these areas as it will actually make the house hotter since there would be nowhere where outside air could be drawn into the attic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamalabob2 Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 The Fascia boards will be where you should consider mounting rain gutters. You have cable vents. Whole house attic fans are readily available. Did you have ventilation soffit boards to increase the air flow in your attic. Insect netting is a crucial part of the soffit board installation. There are many styles of soffit boards which allow attic ventilation in Buriram. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rumak Posted September 19, 2018 Share Posted September 19, 2018 This may not be a well received response but here is my experience. I have lived in a few houses here (single story). Have tried the following : vents in both gabled sides, and insulation matts on the ceiling. an attic fan to help blow out the hot air foil on back of gypsum ceiling One completely open gabled side (with screen) This is the side where weather cannot enter as it has garage extension on that side Now i know many posters swear there is a 5 or 10 degree difference with their systems, maybe so, but everything i do does not really make THAT much of a difference. When that sun is hitting the roof and worse, the walls, it is darn hot. Best solution yet: small house, good A/C ! very cost effective ? I do find that a porch, a tree, something that blocks the sun from hitting the walls makes a difference for sure. Small vents.....forget it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kannot Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 15 hours ago, rumak said: This may not be a well received response but here is my experience. I have lived in a few houses here (single story). Have tried the following : vents in both gabled sides, and insulation matts on the ceiling. an attic fan to help blow out the hot air foil on back of gypsum ceiling One completely open gabled side (with screen) This is the side where weather cannot enter as it has garage extension on that side Now i know many posters swear there is a 5 or 10 degree difference with their systems, maybe so, but everything i do does not really make THAT much of a difference. When that sun is hitting the roof and worse, the walls, it is darn hot. Best solution yet: small house, good A/C ! very cost effective ? I do find that a porch, a tree, something that blocks the sun from hitting the walls makes a difference for sure. Small vents.....forget it He could right from the start have done a whole house ridge vent, they are available here now and those gables are crying out for huge vented area to be installed. Yes small house, I built with double block walls= very cheap with air gap, could have added insulation also but decided it was enough. 50m2 1 bed kept cool with one 10000 btu aircon, monthly bills in hottest months 12-1300 baht max with aircon set at 25c, rest of the year 900 baht, most important though is make sure every gap is sealed tight, i got single pane upvc windows with good selas and all my doors are almost airtight fit, when i open the front door its hard to do due to air tightness, the ceiling creaks as the vacuum is disturbed, same with bedroom doors, you can feel the air trying to escape the room but cant making doors harder to open close. Next plant trees round the house but not too big as falling branches can damage a lot of roof tiles. After a few years the house is surrounded by trees and i can hardly see it, large overhangs stopped the walls getting hot when the trees werent in but now almost no parts of the walls get sun due to foliage cover. Roof has 4 small chimneys ( stainless) made by local shop for any venting and eaves under gutters also have vent space all round. vents are high up this photo just for "show" 4 inch of fibreglass in foil on all ceilings is critical if you have aircon, 4 inch is fine, any thicker and savings minimal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rumak Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 2 hours ago, kannot said: He could right from the start have done a whole house ridge vent, they are available here now and those gables are crying out for huge vented area to be installed. Yes small house, I built with double block walls= very cheap with air gap, could have added insulation also but decided it was enough. 50m2 1 bed kept cool with one 10000 btu aircon, monthly bills in hottest months 12-1300 baht max with aircon set at 25c, rest of the year 900 baht, most important though is make sure every gap is sealed tight, i got single pane upvc windows with good selas and all my doors are almost airtight fit, when i open the front door its hard to do due to air tightness, the ceiling creaks as the vacuum is disturbed, same with bedroom doors, you can feel the air trying to escape the room but cant making doors harder to open close. Next plant trees round the house but not too big as falling branches can damage a lot of roof tiles. After a few years the house is surrounded by trees and i can hardly see it, large overhangs stopped the walls getting hot when the trees werent in but now almost no parts of the walls get sun due to foliage cover. Roof has 4 small chimneys ( stainless) made by local shop for any venting and eaves under gutters also have vent space all round. vents are high up this photo just for "show" 4 inch of fibreglass in foil on all ceilings is critical if you have aircon, 4 inch is fine, any thicker and savings minimal I like what you did ! I did not go to such extremes(no double wall) but same basic concept. My electric bill around same as yours. Do you ever check the attic at around 10 pm on a hot day to see if it is still like an oven ? Mine always were, but my open sided gable helps a lot now to cool down after sun goes down. Daytime....still hot as hell up there. Your 4"bats should help to keep that heat from filtering down (touch ceiling during day to see if it is warm?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kannot Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 1 hour ago, rumak said: I like what you did ! I did not go to such extremes(no double wall) but same basic concept. My electric bill around same as yours. Do you ever check the attic at around 10 pm on a hot day to see if it is still like an oven ? Mine always were, but my open sided gable helps a lot now to cool down after sun goes down. Daytime....still hot as hell up there. Your 4"bats should help to keep that heat from filtering down (touch ceiling during day to see if it is warm?) It will get hot in the day even with foil under the tiles and venting, my ceilings dont get hot as I have the fibreglass insulation, I havent been up there since I did the electrical wiring about 6 years ago and no plans to either hahahaha For sure the venting will help a great deal, at the time the AAC blocks were quite expensive so I used the cheap concrete blocks doubled up and the R value was higher than the single aac's. That and the now fully grown surrounding foliage keeps the sun wholly off the walls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Chance Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 There real problem is your porch deck. The tiles are not water proof. There needs to be a plastic underlay that prevents water from penetrating the slab - which no doubt they did not use. It will take a few year but soon the water will penetrate under your tiles in your living room and cause mold! The other issue was a plastic vapor barrier put under the slab foundations? No doubt probably not, means wet slab and mold under the tiles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kannot Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 On 9/21/2018 at 9:43 AM, Don Chance said: There real problem is your porch deck. The tiles are not water proof. There needs to be a plastic underlay that prevents water from penetrating the slab - which no doubt they did not use. It will take a few year but soon the water will penetrate under your tiles in your living room and cause mold! The other issue was a plastic vapor barrier put under the slab foundations? No doubt probably not, means wet slab and mold under the tiles. or could have added waterproofer into the concrete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kannot Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 On 9/21/2018 at 9:43 AM, Don Chance said: There real problem is your porch deck. The tiles are not water proof. There needs to be a plastic underlay that prevents water from penetrating the slab - which no doubt they did not use. It will take a few year but soon the water will penetrate under your tiles in your living room and cause mold! The other issue was a plastic vapor barrier put under the slab foundations? No doubt probably not, means wet slab and mold under the tiles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Chance Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 What is that? Looks like some sort of plastic canvas carry bags. Doesn't inspire my dreams of long term water proofing but ok. Still be a good idea to have eaves trough for the water not land around the slab. Also weeping tile system. As for your porch tiles they will get wet, i would apply some sort of sealant on the grouts to keep the water from penetrating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kannot Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 On 9/28/2018 at 5:03 PM, Don Chance said: What is that? Looks like some sort of plastic canvas carry bags. Doesn't inspire my dreams of long term water proofing but ok. Still be a good idea to have eaves trough for the water not land around the slab. Also weeping tile system. As for your porch tiles they will get wet, i would apply some sort of sealant on the grouts to keep the water from penetrating. Thats there to slow down the concrete curing, the concrete is actually waterproof as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kannot Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 On 9/28/2018 at 5:03 PM, Don Chance said: Still be a good idea to have eaves trough I guess you mean guttering, I have that all round (upvc) but i think u maybe be confused with my house photos and the Op's who has none Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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