water pipe leak

[taximan1954]

Hi, Looking for suggestions for sealing a leaking joint on blue water pipe, I dont want to cut out and renew if at all possible, Thanks

[MJCM]

I have tried a lot of things on that, what works best is the inner bicycle tube, but that works absolute best if you have a leak in a straight pipe.

 

It must be wrapped really tight on there, but because of it's on a joint, absolutely no guarantee.! And it needs replacing ever so often if in direct sunlight!

 

Edit: I have used this, but this will only work if there is NO water (dry)

 

 

[Excel]

Just use an epoxy pipe wrap, simple

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/50mm-x1250mm-diy-fiberwrap-strong-repair-fix-super-adhesive-tape-i149240930-s173566876.html?exlaz=d_1:mm_150050845_51350205_2010350205::12:12654756915!117524295342!!!pla-293946777986!c!293946777986!173566876!120276962&gclid=CjwKCAjw-8qVBhANEiwAfjXLrpR4iMu095XBsmhBI0dplwRnz9mTSm8_q6Lbn3UEIQeMjvSMIPLhBRoClgYQAvD_BwE

[Crossy]

Yeah, two years ago I used the bike-tube + ziptie trick on an irrigation pipe as a temporary fix.

 

It's not leaked since

 

If you can get the joint pretty dry you could run some cyano (superglue) into the gap, capililary action is your friend.

[transam]

Why can't you cut out the leak, do it properly..?

These other "fixes" are not really a permanent fix......????

[MJCM]

1 minute ago, transam said:

Why can't you cut out the leak, do it properly..?

These other "fixes" are not really a permanent fix......????

For me, it's impossible to do (can't speak for the OP)

 

We have one of those leaks in the joint in one of our water tanks.

 

To replace that joint we have to remove the water from all the water tanks so you are able to "shove" the PVC back in after replacing it. With water in the tanks that is impossible to do unfortunately!

[Crossy]

3 minutes ago, transam said:

Why can't you cut out the leak, do it properly..?

These other "fixes" are not really a permanent fix......????

 

Asean-now, the web home of Bodgit, Buggrit and Scarper - Engineering Ltd.

[VocalNeal]

Fix it or f%^k it.

[Crossy]

1 minute ago, MJCM said:

To replace that joint we have to remove the water from all the water tanks so you are able to "shove" the PVC back in after replacing it. With water in the tanks that is impossible to do unfortunately!

 

You mean you didn't put stop-valves on every tank??? (I know, hindsight is 20-20)

 

You could install them whilst the tanks are empty ???? 

[VocalNeal]

[VocalNeal]

That lazada pipe wrap looks OK but you must sand the shine off the pipe first. Then paint all the pipe to keep the sun off so it doesn't happen any more.

[MJCM]

16 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

You mean you didn't put stop-valves on every tank??? (I know, hindsight is 20-20)

 

You could install them whilst the tanks are empty ???? 

I have on each and every tank (21 of them)!

 

But to be able to get the PVC in real good, you have to be able to budge the PVC and from my experience if you do that to hard you will get more leaks then you originally had!

 

The problem for us is that installer didn't leave much room for error because the existing PVC is just not enough to replace this (unfortunately)

 

When I am building again, I will put stop valves also on the left and right hand side of the in-flowing pipe so I can properly isolate a Faulty tank

 

 

Edit: Red arrow is where the leak is, and the white gloss you see is that Sealer from my 1st post!

 

 

 

 

[MJCM]

7 minutes ago, VocalNeal said:

That lazada pipe wrap looks OK but you must sand the shine off the pipe first. Then paint all the pipe to keep the sun off so it doesn't happen any more.

Thx, but how can you sand it, if it's in a joint. And will that pipe wrap be able to solve it as again it's in a Joint!

 

I have ordered a roll (145 THB plus 45 THB shipping) because for our problem I am ready to isolate the tank and just fill it manually and use it as a spare!

[VocalNeal]

^ From the picture, you are going to wrap it around the fitting and the valve so you sand those. Check the gap under the handle on the tap to ensure you don't interfere with the operation. Or cut the interfering bit off of the tap.

[MJCM]

1 minute ago, VocalNeal said:

^ From the picture, you are going to wrap it around the fitting and the valve so you sand those. Check the gap under the handle on the tap to ensure you don't interfere with the operation. Or cut the interfering bit off of the tap.

Thx I hope it will solve the problem for the OP as well!

 

I am desperate and 190 THB for a solution would be great, as I already bought the stuff to remove it from the "line"

 

[taximan1954]

Thanks for all suggestions, I will cut out and replace, The leak is in a Tpiece joint and is in a very awkward tight position, In the UK  I used a 2 part putty like product that used to set rock hard when mixed together

It was called Plumbers Mate or something similar I was hoping Thailand had something similar

 

[transam]

13 minutes ago, MJCM said:

I have on each and every tank (21 of them)!

 

But to be able to get the PVC in real good, you have to be able to budge the PVC and from my experience if you do that to hard you will get more leaks then you originally had!

 

The problem for us is that installer didn't leave much room for error because the existing PVC is just not enough to replace this (unfortunately)

 

When I am building again, I will put stop valves also on the left and right hand side of the in-flowing pipe so I can properly isolate a Faulty tank

 

 

Edit: Red arrow is where the leak is, and the white gloss you see is that Sealer from my 1st post!

 

 

 

 

I had something similar, and like you, there is a bit of pipe sticking out of the "T" to fix a 90* fitting on. Will look a bit naff, but you can use a few fittings and pipe to do a "round the houses" jobby, at the same time replacing the tank fitting....

PS. I also did this under my kitchen floor to fix a pinhole leak too, you know, the pump starts up every 5 minutes, nobody knows it's there.????

[chickenslegs]

6 minutes ago, taximan1954 said:

Thanks for all suggestions, I will cut out and replace, The leak is in a Tpiece joint and is in a very awkward tight position, In the UK  I used a 2 part putty like product that used to set rock hard when mixed together

It was called Plumbers Mate or something similar I was hoping Thailand had something similar

 

Most hardware stores here have the 2-part putty you describe.

https://www.homepro.co.th/p/18996

[Crossy]

19 minutes ago, MJCM said:

I have on each and every tank (21 of them)!

 

But to be able to get the PVC in real good, you have to be able to budge the PVC and from my experience if you do that to hard you will get more leaks then you originally had!

 

 

Not leaked since the Big Flood when it was installed.

 

You should be able to minimise the water loss with careful management and your existing stops.

 

[Encid]

5 minutes ago, taximan1954 said:

Thanks for all suggestions, I will cut out and replace, The leak is in a Tpiece joint and is in a very awkward tight position, In the UK  I used a 2 part putty like product that used to set rock hard when mixed together

It was called Plumbers Mate or something similar I was hoping Thailand had something similar

 

Two-part adhesive epoxy putty for repairs, bonds, fills, and seals

[MJCM]

2 minutes ago, transam said:

I had something similar, and like you, there is a bit of pipe sticking out of the "T" to fix a 90* fitting on.

I will talk to my Handy man tmrw but I guess he will have doubts because there is not a lot of "meat" in between to have a tight fit!

[SAFETY FIRST]

1 hour ago, taximan1954 said:

for suggestions for sealing a leaking joint on blue water

The builder fitted a plastic blue water isolation valve to the mains water inlet which started leaking. Bloody waste of money, plastic valve on the mains.

I wasn't home at the time, if I was I'd pay the extra for a proper valve. 

 

Anyway, I shut the water off and poured epoxy glue on top of the valve, it's never used, there's an isolation valve either side of the meter if I need to turn off the water.

 

Once dry, No leaks, cheap fix. 

 

 

 

[Encid]

4 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

 

I like the idea of using galvanized fittings instead of PVC up to and including the first stop valve.

 

Do you experience any galvanic corrosion or oxidizing of the dissimilar metals?

Typically the threaded socket in the tanks is copper and your union is galvanized steel.

[Crossy]

3 minutes ago, Encid said:

I like the idea of using galvanized fittings instead of PVC up to and including the first stop valve.

 

Do you experience any galvanic corrosion or oxidizing of the dissimilar metals?

Typically the threaded socket in the tanks is copper and your union is galvanized steel.

 

11 years on and no leaks, of course it may be impossible to remove!

 

The tank connector is "bronze" or possibly gun-metal rather than actual copper.

[MJCM]

1 minute ago, Encid said:

I like the idea of using galvanized fittings instead of PVC up to and including the first stop valve.

1 issue with that, some tanks have plastic "thread" (yes they exist) and those galvanized fittings will for certainly (if done too tightly) mess them up.

[MJCM]

14 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

 

Not leaked since the Big Flood when it was installed.

 

You should be able to minimise the water loss with careful management and your existing stops.

 

Something for our next build

[Encid]

3 minutes ago, MJCM said:

1 issue with that, some tanks have plastic "thread" (yes they exist) and those galvanized fittings will for certainly (if done too tightly) mess them up.

I guess you would need to go heavy on the PTFE tape in that case... 

[Crossy]

9 minutes ago, Encid said:

I guess you would need to go heavy on the PTFE tape in that case... 

 

You ALWAYS have to go overboard on the PVC with the local fittings ???? 

 

On a +ve note it does provide an insulating layer and reduce any differential metal corrosion ???? 

[MJCM]

11 minutes ago, Encid said:

I guess you would need to go heavy on the PTFE tape in that case... 

Lots of it in the back and not a lot in the front (this is what a plumber friend told me)

[Crossy]

1 hour ago, VocalNeal said:

Sadly no photo, but whilst we were doing Hong Kong airport we regularly saw a van with "Wah Kit Engineering" with a hammer as their logo