Fluorescent LED strip light upgrade ARRRR!!!!!!

[Daffy D]

Anyone else have problems replacing those fluorescent strip lights with the new LED?

 

Used to be easy to replace a old fluorescent tube, just go and buy and fit.

 

The first replacement of fluorescent to LED is simple enough, just remove the old fitting completely and replace with new LED fitting and tube.

 

The problem comes with replacing the LED tube. Seems simple enough, just like the old fluorescent remove old tube and replace.......... If only 

 

These new LED's have got more complicated. There is the choice of various Watt, Lumens and LM factors, on top of which replacement tubes from different manufacturers are not always interchangeable 

 

In trying to replace a LED tube in fitting I put up earlier I had one go pop and immediately burnt out and another blew the house fuse, but luckily the tube it's self was undamaged so was able to use it by using the fitting that it came with.

 

So seems the only safe way to use these LED strip light is buy them with complete with fitting and replace the lot each time.

 

What a pain 

 

 

 

 

 

[observer90210]

OP should avoid the chinese crap that flodded our homes and go for either the Philipps Hue systems...or even Ikea who has good quality strip led lights that can be cut and that are of good quality.

[billd766]

I find it easier to replace the fitting and tube at 1 go. All I need to do is cut the power, unscrew the chocolate block connector at the tube side, unclip the fitting, replace the fitting and reverse the process.

 

Yo me, the hardest part is using the steps, as I am 79 with a balance problem and I don't like going more than 2 or 3 treads up a step ladder.

[OneMoreFarang]

There are lots of options. And, IMHO, it's good that there are lots of options, because we all have different needs and taste.

 

If you want post some pictures of the old things here. That should give me and others and idea what you had and what worked. And then maybe we can recommend some replacements.

 

Or you can learn yourself about the differences.

This guy has lots of videos and a good website with all the details.

https://quinled.info/

https://www.youtube.com/@IntermitTech

[Daffy D]

Agree replacing the fitting and tube in one go should be the easiest, as long as the clips are roughly the same and will fit.

 

The other problem is the variations of light output now available. Recently replaced a tube that was so bright it hurt my eyes . 

 

4000k I think it was, should have had a proper look before buying  

 

This is what I'm talking about:- 

[OneMoreFarang]

8 minutes ago, Daffy D said:

Recently replaced a tube that was so bright it hurt my eyes . 

 

4000k I think it was, should have had a proper look before buying  

4000k is the color temperature (warm like a candle or daylight, etc.) It has nothing to do with the brightness. 

If you want to know about the brightness, then look for lumen or watts.

Watts is not really a value for the brightness but in general, more watts = more brightness. 

[bluejets]

20 hours ago, Daffy D said:

So seems the only safe way to use these LED strip light is buy them with complete with fitting and replace the lot each time.

That's it in a nutshell........

[billd766]

8 minutes ago, bluejets said:

That's it in a nutshell........

The only problem I have now is what to do with the pile of old strip lights.

 

I suspect that the trash crew will take them and sell them on. They have taken everything else I leave out by the bin.

[Daffy D]

42 minutes ago, bluejets said:

That's it in a nutshell........

Seems like it,  BUT...... the original fluorescent had the connecting wires come out from the middle of the fitting while the new LED all seem to come out of the end. Which make life just a little more difficult when working upside down on a ladder.

 

Also obviously more difficult replacing the whole fitting and rewiring the connection block, when up the ladder. 

 

Much simpler in the old days where just a half twist would replace the tube.

 

Ah! the good old days   

 

 

[billd766]

7 minutes ago, Daffy D said:

Seems like it,  BUT...... the original fluorescent had the connecting wires come out from the middle of the fitting while the new LED all seem to come out of the end. Which make life just a little more difficult when working upside down on a ladder.

 

Also obviously more difficult replacing the whole fitting and rewiring the connection block, when up the ladder. 

 

Much simpler in the old days where just a half twist would replace the tube.

 

Ah! the good old days   

 

 

That is the price we pay for progress.

[Daffy D]

3 hours ago, billd766 said:

That is the price we pay for progress.

No wonder I'm broke 

[bluejets]

On 10/20/2023 at 9:16 PM, Daffy D said:

the original fluorescent had the connecting wires come out from the middle of the fitting while the new LED all seem to come out of the end.

hehehehe...yes....we always complain about that and avoid using anything with that physical constraint.

It's alway had me wondering why they do this...when we prewire an installation, the light cable is ALWAYS taken to the centre of where the light will locate. Same on existing installs.

Only 2 options you have.....one, take it back and get one that suits........two, relocate your wiring entry point in the ceiling. (latter a right pain in the butt even when one knows what they are doing)

We opt for number one ...always.

If customer insists on using these brumby fittings, we tell them the extra cost involved ( usually double) and it's amazing how quickly these fittings are returned to whenceforth they came.

Edited October 22, 2023 by bluejets

[Crossy]

I've used a tank-cutter in the past to "re-locate" an errant cable hole, of course it's guaranteed that something will be in the way 😞 

 

These: -

 

  

[sometimewoodworker]

3 hours ago, Crossy said:

I've used a tank-cutter in the past to "re-locate" an errant cable hole, of course it's guaranteed that something will be in the way 😞 

 

These: -

 

  

They are great, I’ve got a few and for thin sheet steel (electrical boxes) and plastic electrical boxes, they are perfect.
 

However if you have a thicker steel (1mm+) you can deform the bolt threads, I have one that the HT socket cap screw is now virtually unusable and I need to source a replacement 

 

just for interest what is the imperial size of the 28.3mm 

[Crossy]

25 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

just for interest what is the imperial size of the 28.3mm 

 

It's about 1 ⁷/₆₄" give or take a gnat's. I have no idea exactly what that one is for possibly to give clearance of a 1 ¹/₈" OD thread (³/₄" BSP would be close).

 

[lopburi3]

On 10/19/2023 at 8:33 PM, Daffy D said:

So seems the only safe way to use these LED strip light is buy them with complete with fitting and replace the lot each time.

Indeed - and the cost with fitting is hardly more than without these days - and the mounting is about the size of the previous cover plate.  Have seen both end and center fed wires.  But you have to turn off electric to rewire each time so not a good option for many people.  As for the mount itself at most have to remove old screws/holders and use new holders.  

 

Alternative is always take old lamp with you when buying new and make sure it is the same (maybe just write down info from old tube but believe safer to take old as more likely seller will actually check that way).

[bluejets]

On 10/23/2023 at 11:03 AM, Crossy said:

I've used a tank-cutter in the past to "re-locate" an errant cable hole, of course it's guaranteed that something will be in the way 😞 

That's always the problem...........the guts is scattered all over the interior leaving only the ends free.

[2baht]

On 10/19/2023 at 8:33 PM, Daffy D said:

fluorescent strip lights

 

Did you know, some say used internally, can cure Covid, now who was the pure genius who announced this?

[Crossy]

26 minutes ago, 2baht said:

Did you know, some say used internally, can cure Covid, now who was the pure genius who announced this?

 

Daniel P. Mannix's autobiography "Memoirs of a Sword Swallower" recounts him swallowing a neon tube which was then lit whilst down his throat. Apparently made for a good show with the house lights off.

 

He did fire-eating as well, starting after the house fire-eater "blew up"

 

Do not try this at home!!

 

[billd766]

On 10/19/2023 at 9:46 PM, billd766 said:

I find it easier to replace the fitting and tube at 1 go. All I need to do is cut the power, unscrew the chocolate block connector at the tube side, unclip the fitting, replace the fitting and reverse the process.

 

Yo me, the hardest part is using the steps, as I am 79 with a balance problem and I don't like going more than 2 or 3 treads up a step ladder.

I am replacing the one in my workshop with an LED strip light. It has taken me a couple of hours to plan the job, decide where to move the new one to, find some wood to back it.

 

The old one is at the back of the workshop and about 3 metres up, so It can stay.

 

Today started out by by shifting the workbench, lashing the steps to the concrete post for safety., drilling holes in the back board, finding the rawlplugs and then finding screws that were long enough, drill bits for concrete of the right diameter.

 

Finding the correct screws was not so easy as I am also spring cleaning my workshop. Now did I find them already, and if so where did I put them.

 

I finally got my act together and mounted the board and the light, so tomorrow I will wire it up, having checked that the switch works.

 

Where did those 2 hours go to today?

Edited October 25, 2023 by billd766
added extra text

[Crossy]

17 minutes ago, billd766 said:

Where did those 2 hours go to today?

 

Ah yes. The proverbial "five-minute job".

 

Been there, got the t-shirt (ok, many t-shirts)

 

And, never, ever tidy your workshop before a job.

[Muzzique]

Watts is the power they use. 10w =100w normal bulb but this is only for incandescent bulbs. Here is a good guide for all types of equivalents.

 

https://ledhut.co.uk/blogs/news/led-equivalent-wattages-against-traditional-lighting

 

Lumens is the brightness. 6000 is super bright. Could be the bulb is coated so it will use the same power but produce less light.

 

LM factor is how efficient the light is at recreating the lighting you want with less electricity. Your can get lower wattage bulbs that punch above their weight in terms of light output but there is a cost trade off.

 

Volts are important. 240v is normal but America use110v. Pick the wrong one and it will either blow or not come on.

 

Always take your tube with you. There are many different sizes and fitting so use your eyes and not guess.

 

Bright white will look like a hospital, daylight has a slight yellow. Warm white has a more mellow fire light feeling.

 

Go for a known brand not price. There is no governing body who checks what is written on the box is what you get. With a brand you are going to get what you expect.

 

Go to the shop informed. Read the box and go with knowledge.

 

 

Unfortunately times move on. There was a time when you picked up a phone receiver then turned a rotary dial to get a number, Now we have mobiles. 

 

If in doubt use candles.

 

 

 

[billd766]

5 hours ago, Crossy said:

 

Ah yes. The proverbial "five-minute job".

 

Been there, got the t-shirt (ok, many t-shirts)

 

And, never, ever tidy your workshop before a job.

It is spring cleaning time and I was bored.

 

One advantage of a clean and tidy workshop is that I have found many items that I have been buying as I had none left.

 

I found in among all the rubbish a big plastic box full of nails of various sizes that I don't even remember buying in the 19 years we have lived here.

 

I have found various sizes and types of blue plumbing fittings that to buy new would be around 1,500 to 2,000 baht.

 

Nails, screws. nuts, bolts, washers, jubilee clips, 3 cement trowels, electrical plugs, sockets, fuses ( I cant remember the last time I changed a fuse). Odd broken or maybe not electric fans, taps of various sizes and types, an old water pump, water filters, and I am not even finished clearing the third bench yet, let alone underneath.

 

The trash men will be happy as they sell on stuff that I consider junk and not worth repairing.

Edited October 25, 2023 by billd766

[billd766]

On 10/23/2023 at 11:43 AM, sometimewoodworker said:

They are great, I’ve got a few and for thin sheet steel (electrical boxes) and plastic electrical boxes, they are perfect.
 

However if you have a thicker steel (1mm+) you can deform the bolt threads, I have one that the HT socket cap screw is now virtually unusable and I need to source a replacement 

 

just for interest what is the imperial size of the 28.3mm 

According to Google 28.3 mm is equal to 1.114173 imperial inches in length/diameter.

 

The 0.114173 doesn't seem to come out as a fraction

 

I don't think that I have ever seen any socket or spanner that size

 

Perhaps A/F or Whitworth or as an alternative, the trusty adjustable "Mole" grips would do.

[billd766]

4 hours ago, Muzzique said:

Watts is the power they use. 10w =100w normal bulb but this is only for incandescent bulbs. Here is a good guide for all types of equivalents.

 

https://ledhut.co.uk/blogs/news/led-equivalent-wattages-against-traditional-lighting

 

Lumens is the brightness. 6000 is super bright. Could be the bulb is coated so it will use the same power but produce less light.

 

LM factor is how efficient the light is at recreating the lighting you want with less electricity. Your can get lower wattage bulbs that punch above their weight in terms of light output but there is a cost trade off.

 

Volts are important. 240v is normal but America use110v. Pick the wrong one and it will either blow or not come on.

 

Always take your tube with you. There are many different sizes and fitting so use your eyes and not guess.

 

Bright white will look like a hospital, daylight has a slight yellow. Warm white has a more mellow fire light feeling.

 

Go for a known brand not price. There is no governing body who checks what is written on the box is what you get. With a brand you are going to get what you expect.

 

Go to the shop informed. Read the box and go with knowledge.

 

 

Unfortunately times move on. There was a time when you picked up a phone receiver then turned a rotary dial to get a number, Now we have mobiles. 

 

If in doubt use candles.

 

 

 

Thank you for that link.

 

I was looking at an LED floodlight today and it was rated at 50 watts.

By using the link against incandescent the equivalent would have been 500 watts.

[sometimewoodworker]

2 hours ago, billd766 said:

According to Google 28.3 mm is equal to 1.114173 imperial inches in length/diameter.

 

The 0.114173 doesn't seem to come out as a fraction

 

I don't think that I have ever seen any socket or spanner that size

 

Perhaps A/F or Whitworth or as an alternative, the trusty adjustable "Mole" grips would do.

I would be interested in what you think you are talking about. The 28.3mm has absolutely nothing to do with thread sizes or hex bolt sizes. 

It is the diameter of the hole that it can punch. It is likely that it uses a 10mm socket cap screw and an 8mm Allen wrench 

Edited October 25, 2023 by sometimewoodworker

[billd766]

On 10/23/2023 at 11:43 AM, sometimewoodworker said:

They are great, I’ve got a few and for thin sheet steel (electrical boxes) and plastic electrical boxes, they are perfect.
 

However if you have a thicker steel (1mm+) you can deform the bolt threads, I have one that the HT socket cap screw is now virtually unusable and I need to source a replacement 

 

just for interest what is the imperial size of the 28.3mm 

 

8 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

I would be interested in what you think you are talking about. The 28.3mm has absolutely nothing to do with thread sizes or hex bolt sizes. 

It is the diameter of the hole that it can punch. It is likely that it uses a 10mm socket cap screw and an 8mm Allen wrench 

In your post above you asked this question.

 

quote

"just for interest what is the imperial size of the 28.3mm".

 

I answered it. If you don't like the answer, then search for it yourself and don't bother to ask the question.

[Daffy D]

It's good to have a "spring clean" of the workshop sometimes.

 

My problem is that if I find something that I know will be useful, I put it somewhere safe and easily accessible ready for when I need it. 

 

The trouble is that when the time comes that I do need it,  I remember where I found it but for the life of me can't recall the safe place that I put it, so now can't find it again. 

 

It's an age thing 

[Woof999]

39 minutes ago, Daffy D said:

My problem is that if I find something that I know will be useful, I put it somewhere safe and easily accessible ready for when I need it. 

 

The trouble is that when the time comes that I do need it,  I remember where I found it but for the life of me can't recall the safe place that I put it, so now can't find it again. 

 

It's an age thing 

 

Lol yes this. I've even spent several minutes searching for something that I was already holding.

[sometimewoodworker]

12 hours ago, billd766 said:

 

In your post above you asked this question.

 

quote

"just for interest what is the imperial size of the 28.3mm".

 

I answered it. If you don't like the answer, then search for it yourself and don't bother to ask the question.

You really need to pay attention to the thread and actually understand the stampings on hole punches. I never asked about a nonexistent spanner/wrench. You are demonstrating that this area is one that you have no knowledge or understanding of, you may be knowledgeable in other areas but here you are not.

 

Many/ hole punches have an imperial and metric marking so it is likely that @Crossy , since he posted the picture, could have that punch in his possession and so could look and post the answer. All the hole punches I have, including the 27mm one, have this on them. The markings on the punch give the size of the hole. The only possible relevance to a thread size would the the clearance given and since hole punches can not cut anything but thin sheet metal or plastic so the larger punches have no relation to thread size or spanner’s.

 

Your answer wasn’t in anyway helpful, relevant, or even close to the point, and you still seem not to understand why.