Jump to content

Toyota V8 Exhaust Pipes Length/Size


Recommended Posts

The building process went very well. The builder was quite professional in all respects.

I made a number of visits to the yard from I ordered the boat and up to delivery.

(He was not used to customers paying interest to details, but accepted that.)

I had a series of special requests which the builder did for me.

Took some discussion though. But in the end it worked out.

The chap has never made a boat for pleasure before, so he was rather surprised about some of my requests.

I had to give up on a few wishes though. Some of them I can fix myself later.

He had never seen cleats before.

I had to show him how to apply sikaflex/silicone to avoid water ingress and how to use supportive wood for the screws to increase strength.

Quite funny:

Quite a while after I had given him the cleats and let him choose the screws during one of my visits he asked

what the cleats where for.

He was quite surprised when I said mooring. But he took to the idea.

He expressed that they were elegant when he saw the final result.

If I ever make another boat I'll surely use the same chap/yard again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sweet, but where's the mill?

the mill?

Translation. Mill = Engine smile.png

Still reckon it should have foils smile.png

Yep, heaven the forbid the ''Mother In Law'' (MIL) is not involved with this eh. drunk.gif

Or for that matter the <deleted> that's the Moro Islamic Liberation Front of course, not the 'other' <deleted> :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

The following is just some general rambling from me, in lieu of any real progress.

Am currently partly down with chicken pox of all things.

After having spent some time in the boat looking at various details I've discovered a few things that are not to my liking, to say the least.

Missing varnish here and there, some surfaces deliberately left unvarnished. Some sloppy painting inside, spilling paint on to varnish below etc.

(in my country you just can't sell a boat with paint spills)

In my view absolutely all surfaces on/in a boat should be covered, paint or varnish, water gets everywhere.

Have been fixing up some of these.

To my horror i discovered nails rather than screws in places which shocked me. Like on longitudinal stringers when fastened to athwartships beams.

This I can fix when the nails loosen up due to hard running in choppy water.

Also to much nails used for fastening aluminium protective lists.

Have spent time doing fenders (Vespa tyres) and also the Thai style rubber hose fenders, need 18 of them each side, hard work/takes time.

Also have cut and arranged mooring ropes. European style not Thai style.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Last January I met a very helpful and nice guy at the Marine Dept, main office in BKK.

He was surprised when he learned I was having a soong dtoon made for use on the rivers and klongs,

he was pleased and somewhat impressed that I had acquired a Thai Fist Class skipper license.

I inquired about any local rules (rules of the road) in addition to the standard IMO stuff, he said there were a few but that they were minor.

He couldn't really pinpoint the Thai additions.

Furthermore, he said they (Thailand) were using the 1972 version of the Rules, (hmmm, somewhat old).

He said that if I popped in with a usb stick he would give me the local rules etc etc.

I asked him about alcohol and driving boats. He said; no rules. I asked several times and he checked with other colleagues.

They were firm; NO rules, you can drive mau mak mak.

But if there is an accident there will be and investigation and of course, being pissed will not help you much.

But, no controls and no rules.

No speed limits on inland waterways.

Also, he said that in LoS, all inland waterways, klongs/rivers/lakes use IALA-A, green to starboard and driving on the right hand side.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Price,

before somebody asks:

Paid 90 000 for the boat,

that includes two boxes for driver to sit in and a footbox you use with the leg where you rest the steering rod.

Includes the paint job.

All the alu protection.

And the 2 big hardwood beams and the associated bolts for carrying/mounting the engine cradle/fundament.

Paid 2000 for the transport from Nakhon Pathom to Nonthaburi.

This is the standard/going price, no farang tax here.

In January I checked for places to make/buy seats/cushions.

As example I asked for one cushion 1.40m x 0.30m x 0.10 m in ordinary PVC with zip.

One factory in Pattaya quoted 1600 baht for one.

One factory in Bang Sue quoted 2500 baht for one.

Another factory in Bang Sue quoted 800 baht for one.

Sometimes it pays to ask around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

business/pleasure

Think I mentioned above that the builder had never built a boat for pleasure before.

The main differences between mine and a similar boat for business would be:

I have much fewer seats in mine, only 4 seat benches, the fore bench can not be used for sitting, its for storage purely.

so, 3 seat benches for use.

The driver section of the boat is much larger than in a business boat

in front of the driver section there is a big athwartships beam for stiffening the hull i guess, this beam is pulled

forward quite a lot in my boat.

There is a significant distance between the beam and the aft seat. (space for storage)

The distance between the seatbacks are close to a meter.

This pussled the builder. I tried to convince him that farang can not sit like Buddha, farang need space for legs.

Especially for longer periods.

Also I have raised the bottom of the V or U if you like in the stern plate by about 2.5 inched

Link to comment
Share on other sites

soong dtoon

my boat is not normally referred to as a longtail boat but as a soong dtoon

soong dtoon means 2 segments or 2 sections.

If you look at the pics above you will see that the bottom is split, the front section deeper than the aft section.

There is your soong dtoon.

You also have some boats same style as mine (but smaller) that are nung dtoon, 1 segment,

I hear some Thais refer to these as Katoeys.

The bigger longtails that you see on Chao Praya in central Bangkok, Sathorn,

Grand Palace area, Wat Arun, Pin Klao etc. They are called longtails by the Thais.

The speedier longtails (like mine) come in 2 versions;

like mine, with a V or U cut in the sternplate for the shaft.

or with a rectangular stern with no cut.

each has pros and cons

cut-pros; lower placement of engine and gear, lower centre of gravity, more stability, better angle of attack for shaft/screw

cut-cons; more difficult to steer / maneuver (can not swing the shaft very much from side to side), when you stop quickly i.e.

just "remove the foot from pedal" the stern wave catches up and comes over the stern and into the boat.

you need space for turning the boat around, and you need parking space

rect-pros; you can swing the shaft 180 degrees, small parking place requirements, easy to turn in confined spaces,

little if any stern wave problems

rect-cons; not good angle of attack for shaft/screw, high centre of gravity, reduced stability.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

met with my mechanic chap yesterday,

discussed what I want done re tanks, coolers, engine, gear, longtails, screws, motor instruments, etc etc.

he phones me an offer this morning

will meet again this afternoon, and I presume we will agree price/payment conditions etc.\

and the thing will be under way,

he reckons he will need about a month to complete the job,

the main uncertain factor being how soon he can find a good quality 1UZ,

the other major uncertain factor is the production of the drive/screw shaft itself, this takes time.

got myself a surprise yesterday,

I showed him a small ball-bearing and asked if they used such (and how many)

inside the shaft tube for balancing the shaft itself

his answer was can do, some do, but most prefer using bearings made of hardwood,

he claimed they were both cheap and very good, and also fine with very high rpm and torque

steep learning curve for me this

Link to comment
Share on other sites

met with my mechanic chap yesterday,

discussed what I want done re tanks, coolers, engine, gear, longtails, screws, motor instruments, etc etc.

he phones me an offer this morning

will meet again this afternoon, and I presume we will agree price/payment conditions etc.\

and the thing will be under way,

he reckons he will need about a month to complete the job,

the main uncertain factor being how soon he can find a good quality 1UZ,

the other major uncertain factor is the production of the drive/screw shaft itself, this takes time.

got myself a surprise yesterday,

I showed him a small ball-bearing and asked if they used such (and how many)

inside the shaft tube for balancing the shaft itself

his answer was can do, some do, but most prefer using bearings made of hardwood,

he claimed they were both cheap and very good, and also fine with very high rpm and torque

steep learning curve for me this

Wood blink.png , well, l remember the days of phosphor bronze bearings which in most cases were replaced by sealed or oil fed roller/ball bearings. smile.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will you be running a transmission - or direct drive from the engine to the prop ?

there will be a gearbox, simple (forward, neutral, astern),

the ratio engine/prop will be 1:1

the 5 stage automatic that comes with the 1UZ will be exchanged for that simple gearbox

Link to comment
Share on other sites

made the deal with the mechanic chap 2 days ago,

he reckons he will need about 1 month for engine, gear, longtail, prop, tanks, instruments, the lot

so test runs should be around end of May/early June.

(he ain't cheap, but he does good work and uses 1UZ himself)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

funny how prices can vary between different shops,

have been looking around for seats/cushions, have asked for the price of 1 cushion

1.4 m long, 0.3 m wide/deep and 0.1 m thick

(pvc covered foam stuff)

have had quotes for 1600 and for 2500 and for 800

2 days ago I went to the 800 chap for ordering, after having given him sizes for 8 cushions,

he said he would have to calculate price and call me.

some hours later he phoned and quoted 9500 for the lot.

(fantasy price)

I found another shop yesterday and got the lot (8 cushions) for 4000.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

running lights

I'd like to have proper running lights, just so the marine police cannot complain

however, its close to impossible to place 'em

might end up with a removable targa thing with running lights and search lights mounted

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can you give an idea as to aprox cost of the 1UZ to buy locally?.

Looking forward to seeing your project in the water, will come to BKK to see smile.png)

I have looked at shops (2nd hand engine shops) in Nonthaburi, in BKK and in Samut Prakan along the Bangna-Trat highway,

the prices varies from 25000 to 35000, the majority being between 25000 and 30000.

that is a complete engine with starter, generator etc etc and the automatic gearbox,

most engines come without radiator and fan.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Fuel filter:

I'd very much like to have a proper fuel filter between the tank and the engine.

The marine type that filters out water and crap from the fuel and where the filter typically

will have some see through plastic in its lower part so you can see if its time to drain off water.

Cannot find it in Bangkok.

Found a couple of shops in Worachak with ample assortment of filters, but its all diesel.

Nothing for benzin.

Anybody knowing a suitable shop in Bangkok?

(Pretty sure they would have it in Phuket in the marine equipment shops, but Phuket is a bit out of the way.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1UZ

Finally, the motor has been purchased, it appears pretty good and clean.

The engine fundament for the boat and the longtail has been ordered, so its progressing.

Could anybody recommend a suitable coolant?

One which is mixed already and can be poured straight into the radiator and which is easy to get hold of

in ordinary stores.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Be sure to use an ''Anti-freeze'' to protect against internal corrosion and oxidization. You can buy it two ways, stuff you mix with water and ready mixed, case of reading the can. But, the concentrate will be far more expensive which will give you a clue if no English label. smile.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Be sure to use an ''Anti-freeze'' to protect against internal corrosion and oxidization. You can buy it two ways, stuff you mix with water and ready mixed, case of reading the can. But, the concentrate will be far more expensive which will give you a clue if no English label. smile.png

my idea was to get a ready mixed anti freeze,

would you have a brand name for a good fluid?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Be sure to use an ''Anti-freeze'' to protect against internal corrosion and oxidization. You can buy it two ways, stuff you mix with water and ready mixed, case of reading the can. But, the concentrate will be far more expensive which will give you a clue if no English label. smile.png

my idea was to get a ready mixed anti freeze,

would you have a brand name for a good fluid?

Sadly no as at Toyota service they use their ''own'' brand.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Any pics yet of work-in-progress, or the finished project ??

sorry no,

the project suffers some major delays,

i hurt my arm badly the week after songkran, fairly powerless,

had an operation to sort out the nerves in the arm mid June,

am recovering slowly, training muscles and nerves to work

(I can now carry 3 bottles of whisky with the operated arm, improvement from nothing)

The chap who is producing the craddle, the engine fundament, has been down with a bad back

for a month and a half, but is up and running again now.

The engine, in its craddle, is supposed to be delivered to my mechanic tomorrow.

Then he will do his work on the engine (2-3 weeks???), before we put the engine into the boat

then the remaining bits will be batteries/electric, instruments, longtail, fuel tank/lines/filters, exhaust pipes,

anti-bend support for the drive shaft (and a few other bits and pieces).

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.






×
×
  • Create New...