Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

^

that is 1 litre bottle...Bike takes 1.6l so got two bottles 1440 bht little bit more pricey than the standard Honda oil that was put in on first service.

Edited by taninthai
  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Posted

I'm just a little confused because the picture you posted, on the bottle it is written 1.06 QT or 1Le. Usually liter bottle are the size of a jug and have a hand molded on the bottle.

Posted

Empty plastic containers are not hard to find, Just cut out one side and slide under the scooter or bike and decant the used oil into another one for storage or disposal. Use an old piece of cardboard box as a drip tray or some kitty litter (cheap as chips).

If changing oil at 100 kms do not use synthetic, use regular oil.

Don't switch to synthetic until the bike is well broken in and then off course only use synthetic that has no friction modifiers Ie. Japanese rating method (JASO) MA. If a belt drive scooter you can use any synthetic or oil with friction modifiers JASO MB.

Many oil threads here if you search.

Whats the reasoning behind non synth until well broken in. Synths make sure the piston is lubed up on start up therfore cause less damage where as mineral oils do not do so well. I did work for oil manufacturer so curious as to your reasoning, dont think polishing should be a problem. Just curious thats all.

The theory is that most engines is not thoroughly broken in until until around 20K. The the rings will be and parts will be 90-95% broken in fairly soon but the other 5-10% takes a long time. Synthetic is so slick that it stops the break-in process when you start using it. There has been a lot written about this on the net -- some people swear by it, others disagree. I have read a few threads by people who claim to have documented extra horse power (dyno measured) by using this method. It was recommended to my by BMW techs in the US, who were loath to put full synthetic into my bike before at least 10,000 miles (said 20K was better). I have no personal knowledge, but figure it can't hurt to defer to the folks that seem to know more about it than I.

Posted

Empty plastic containers are not hard to find, Just cut out one side and slide under the scooter or bike and decant the used oil into another one for storage or disposal. Use an old piece of cardboard box as a drip tray or some kitty litter (cheap as chips).

If changing oil at 100 kms do not use synthetic, use regular oil.

Don't switch to synthetic until the bike is well broken in and then off course only use synthetic that has no friction modifiers Ie. Japanese rating method (JASO) MA. If a belt drive scooter you can use any synthetic or oil with friction modifiers JASO MB.

Many oil threads here if you search.

Whats the reasoning behind non synth until well broken in. Synths make sure the piston is lubed up on start up therfore cause less damage where as mineral oils do not do so well. I did work for oil manufacturer so curious as to your reasoning, dont think polishing should be a problem. Just curious thats all.

The theory is that most engines is not thoroughly broken in until until around 20K. The the rings will be and parts will be 90-95% broken in fairly soon but the other 5-10% takes a long time. Synthetic is so slick that it stops the break-in process when you start using it. There has been a lot written about this on the net -- some people swear by it, others disagree. I have read a few threads by people who claim to have documented extra horse power (dyno measured) by using this method. It was recommended to my by BMW techs in the US, who were loath to put full synthetic into my bike before at least 10,000 miles (said 20K was better). I have no personal knowledge, but figure it can't hurt to defer to the folks that seem to know more about it than I.

Just a note:

I know of a BMW 800 parallel twin that had a flickering oil light problem. Barcelona Motors could not find the source of the problem even after changing the switch.. The owner asked what oil they were using they said the same oil they put in all bikes. When the owner changed the oil himself to the grade recommended in the BMW 800 owners manual the problem went away.

Posted (edited)

How many km can you ride on this synthetic oil? I usually change my oil every 2k km or 3k km at Honda for only 130฿

Therein seems to be the rub

They say you can go further on synthetic because it doesn't break down as fast + it is not allowing

further break in so there should be less waste materials in the oil.

Some say 4-5k. But most bikers I know still end up changing like you at 2500-3k miles

So if that is the case why change? Unless you have a firm belief in synthetic oil firm enough to let it run

then the added expense may be wasted if your still changing at regular oil intervals.

I know it (synthetic) is proven in many tests so I guess folks should leave it in longer if they use it at all.

But there is one more thing I have wondered, If warranty specifies oil changes at x, x & x dates aren't you basically stuck

& need to change by those dates to remain in warranty anyway? I am sure you can specify synthetic & pay but, if your not allowed to

use the benefit of longer life the price difference is limited to any better lubrication qualities you perceive eh?

One last thing I have wondered about is how a frictionless oil or synthetic

affects... if at all a wet friction based clutch?

I know years ago I read how Amsoil debunked that theory.

But at the time their example was things like...

Look at wet sandpaper, the slipperiness of wet sandpaper does not impede it removing material with friction.

Then they went on to compare dry sandpaper which clogs when used dry since material is removed but does not slip off.

I always thought it was a bad example since none are comparing to a dry clutch. Instead they are asking if the extra slip

affects a clutch that relies on friction or not & both are in a bath of oil. One synthetic & the other organic. I have no idea still smile.png

I have always used regular high grade oil in bikes,cars & trucks because I like to change oil sooner than most.

It has not broken down & any material that has worn is removed when I change oil & filter.

If it were priced the same I would probably give it a go. If you have ever played with those gear displays at

parts houses you have felt how they feel like they have reduced resistance when turning the hand crank on their display.

Who knows how real that is but it is noticeable.

Edited by mania
Posted (edited)

One last thing I have wondered about is how a frictionless oil or synthetic

affects... if at all a wet friction based clutch?

Don't know. But JASO has an MA rating for engines with wet clutch and MB rating for bike with dry clutch. I believe the difference is that one has friction modifiers and the other does not.

If the synthetic says MA or has been tested then it should be OK. Because of the usage of Shell Rotella Ultra by motorcyclists in the US. Shell added MA rating to the label.

Edited by VocalNeal
  • Like 1
Posted

Use the oil that makes you feel good. And show your decision by putting an oil-sticker on the bike. Most important.

And remember: You get what you pay for.

I love oil threads. Women talk about the power of washing powders, men about engine oils.

wink.png

(Just kidding, of course its an important topic.)

  • Like 2
Posted

Change the oil filter with every oil change.

In extreme conditions change oil twice as often.

Don't mix one brand with another.

Good old dad had a lot of good advice.

Posted

I didn't know it takes 20k km for a motorcycle engine to break in. I've had my bike for a year and seven months and it just hit about 23k km. give I mostly just ride the bike to work, football, and a few trips ( kanjanaburi/saraburi, nakonayok, and supanburi) I think it might be time I switch over to synthetic oil.

Posted

Use the oil that makes you feel good. And show your decision by putting an oil-sticker on the bike. Most important.

And remember: You get what you pay for.

I love oil threads. Women talk about the power of washing powders, men about engine oils.

wink.png

(Just kidding, of course its an important topic.)

Of course it is. Some of those stains are hard to get out.

Posted

Yesterday I found out that Hondas motor oil is supplied by ENOS and another Japanese distributed. I don't think they use synthetic oil from ENOS. But Honda oils gotta be better then most normal oils.

Posted

Yesterday I found out that Hondas motor oil is supplied by ENOS and another Japanese distributed. I don't think they use synthetic oil from ENOS. But Honda oils gotta be better then most normal oils.

dont know why honda oil would automatically be better than any quality oil from shell or another decent manufacturer

OEM tyres are usually pretty low grade to keep costs down ,oil is probably chosen based on price as well

Posted

^

Motor oil is a debatable topic. You pay what you get for, sometime. Can you prove at shell is better than Honda oil, for the cost? The type of motor oil you use is what you like. Use the motor oil that you like and trust.

Posted

About the s12 , be careful with the brakes, so I have heard. They shouldn be for sale currently. And about the cbr 150, reaching 150 km/h. So sad if like this and the 250, not much more than this :)

Posted
About the s12 , be careful with the brakes, so I have heard. They shouldn be for sale currently. And about the cbr 150, reaching 150 km/h. So sad if like this and the 250, not much more than this :)

I've gone over 150km on my CBR 150. What's so sad?

Posted (edited)
About the s12 , be careful with the brakes, so I have heard. They shouldn be for sale currently. And about the cbr 150, reaching 150 km/h. So sad if like this and the 250, not much more than this smile.png

I've gone over 150km on my CBR 150. What's so sad?

I believe he is saying it is sad the 250 cannot do much better

Edited by mania
Posted
About the s12 , be careful with the brakes, so I have heard. They shouldn be for sale currently. And about the cbr 150, reaching 150 km/h. So sad if like this and the 250, not much more than this :)

Just stay at the topic guys.

Besides this is not an oil thread.

And, if you make 150 kmh with cbr150, i am sure you can make 200 kmh with cbr250 as you fly high man:D

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Thaivisa Connect App

Posted

CBR 250 won't go 200 km/h unless you modify the engine.

The CBR 150 and the CBR 250's top speed are almost the same. But the CBR 250 does get up to speed faster. If your really a top speed guy why would you even buy a 250?

Posted
About the s12 , be careful with the brakes, so I have heard. They shouldn be for sale currently. And about the cbr 150, reaching 150 km/h. So sad if like this and the 250, not much more than this smile.png

Just stay at the topic guys.

Besides this is not an oil thread.

And, if you make 150 kmh with cbr150, i am sure you can make 200 kmh with cbr250 as you fly high man:D

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Thaivisa Connect App

I have also got to 150kmh on a CBR150. Having said that, it was going downhill.
Posted

^

Down hill I hit 170. It was almost to red line and in a full tuck riding position. Kai rai going over japiow river.

How steep was that hill? I think you should have your speedometer checked, as it is showing strange speeds.

  • Like 1
Posted

^

Down hill I hit 170. It was almost to red line and in a full tuck riding position. Kai rai going over japiow river.

How steep was that hill? I think you should have your speedometer checked, as it is showing strange speeds.

Lol if you have ever ridden on that bridge you would understand

Posted

^

Down hill I hit 170. It was almost to red line and in a full tuck riding position. Kai rai going over japiow river.

How steep was that hill? I think you should have your speedometer checked, as it is showing strange speeds.

Lol if you have ever ridden on that bridge you would understand

If only one knew where kai rai or japiow river are.

Posted

^

Down hill I hit 170. It was almost to red line and in a full tuck riding position. Kai rai going over japiow river.

How steep was that hill? I think you should have your speedometer checked, as it is showing strange speeds.

Lol if you have ever ridden on that bridge you would understand

If only one knew where kai rai or japiow river are.

It's the street at central ratanatibet is on. The bridge finishes when your about to get to central rattantibet

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.




×
×
  • Create New...