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Retire to Chiang Mai?


RickNuNu

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We went there to Chiang Mai in Oct. for 10 days and loved it so much we bought a brand new house and plan on retiring there next year. This was our first time to travel to Thailand but we have researched it, and decided this was the place. I'm going back to CM in April to see how the house build is doing and put the finishing touches on my kitchen. Neither of us are Thai and we can't wait to move there.. We never had a bad experience when we were their ..

Did you buy a house or a condo?

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We went there to Chiang Mai in Oct. for 10 days and loved it so much we bought a brand new house and plan on retiring there next year. This was our first time to travel to Thailand but we have researched it, and decided this was the place. I'm going back to CM in April to see how the house build is doing and put the finishing touches on my kitchen. Neither of us are Thai and we can't wait to move there.. We never had a bad experience when we were their ..

You might when you find out that neither of you own the land your house is being built on.

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I live in Chiang Mai countryside for 3 years and I love it every time. Now I live in Chiang Rai, an even better city, with my wonderful Thai wife.

If you like Asian culture like I do, and you like to travel, nothing better than Thailand. Close to every Asian country and with low air fares.

If you like Asian women, Thailand is the home of the most beautiful and friendly ones. Problems?...the same you will have in any country if you like to be in wrong places at wrong times....Only problem for older minds?....the language, and some cultural customs.

My best advise...Keep low profile. Do not spend more than $1500/month including EVERYTHING....and save money in case you do need to come back to the US for any reason. Learn about the Thai way of life and thinking, before making any long term decision about housing, transportation, business, money, and specially women. The right ones for you may be hard to find. Takes time and discipline. Be at front with them if you think in having a serious relationship...Thai women will not get your social security benefits after your death if they do not live in the US for at least 5 years.....Other foreign countries SS do not have those rules. Do not feel bad is a woman you like dump you after knowing about....

Do not believe if somebody tell you that EVERY Thai women is just looking for money sponsors....it is not true. Have a lot of fun...be out of trouble, join an Expat Group, and keep looking....keep looking..and making good friends Thai and Foreigners.

Welcome to Thailand!

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I arrived with my husband just four months before the 2006 coup, having spent two years visiting, researching and generally planning out the best way to get settled. I wasn't unfamiliar with Asia and its very different cultures in general and had advice from a former British Embassy official as to how Thailand compared with, say, Japan, which I knew well, or China.

Post coup, I've noticed a number of negative changes, including a deal of prejudice against foreigners emanating from those who make the rules in BKK - whatever colour their shirts! Right now, this is worrying.

For me, the plus point of CM is its everyday locals - those who are not involved in the tourist industry in any way. 90 per cent of the time they are friendly and fun to interact with, even although I haven't managed to get to grips with the language yet. However, those servicing (in any way) the expat community need to be carefully watched, and a good few posts on this forum do tell it like it is.

My take on the expat community may not be popular although it's based on more than seven years of experience, some of it bitter. There seems to be a split between those who are fortunate enough to have more money than is necessary to live comfortably, those who genuinely want to integrate, those who are married to Thais and those who just want to live their lives without succumbing to the over-commercial world they left behind. Just like in our home countries, I suspect, but your social life here may not be what you expect as the community is less than integrated within itself. The old story of acquaintances versus friends might apply...

Unlike in our home countries, corruption in Thailand is in your face, as it is in Asia in general. One warning, watch out for it in the expat community, especially as regards financial matters.

As regards facilities and amenities, expect to pay a good deal more should you wish to continue a Western lifestyle. Private hospitals here, compared with the West, may seem to be inexpensive, but are not so in terms of the average retirement income, and various tricks may be used to inflate your bill - this from studies by international health insurance companies as well as the grapevine. Surprisingly, the local public hospitals are at least as good as their equivalents in the UK, and sometimes better. They're also embarrassingly cheap. Most common drugs such as antibiotics, etc, can be had cheaply at local pharmacies without a prescription.

CM is certainly safer for expats than, say, most major Western cities, but the standard of driving is admittedly appalling. There are no driving schools, the 'test' is a joke (literally), and expecting the unexpected is the only way. Having said that, if you are used to driving in Western cities, you'll be able to adjust to driving here within a short time. The much-mentioned 'health and safety' issues of dodgy pavements, crazy electrical wiring, etc, are all part of living in anything but a first-world country. A hefty dose of objectivity helps!

My house was built to my design almost eight years ago on leased land, and is holding up pretty well- although I'm aware that, more recently, standards may have slipped. Most developers use non-formally -trained Burmese labour as it's far cheaper and Thais don't like this work. However, the Burmese seem to have a strong work ethic and, due to the semi-tropical weather, homes are constructed in a different manner. However, you should check as often as possible as to whether your specifications are being included in the build.

Believe it or not, not all single men here arrive for easily available sex or the chance to grab a gorgeous young wife. As you'll have read on this forum, some get lucky and some don't, but the previously mentioned dose of objectivity needs to be racked up a good few notches.

Dependent on your needs rather than your wants, CM is still a good place to live, although it's not the tropical paradise described by most websites offering properties and lifestyles. If you can figure out the difference between advertorials and reality, you'll do fine.

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It's been 20 years since I was in Costa Rica, but I've visited Thailand six times since then and finally retired here three years ago. Costa Rica was at least twice the price of Chiang Mai and I didn't feel safe there. Chiang Mai does have bad traffic and dodgy electricity, but other than that it's safe. The people--both foreigners and locals--are friendly, and there's more to do than in Costa Rica. Lots of expat clubs, courses to take, yoga, and so on. For me the frustrations are related to work permit restrictions and immigration rules, but I'm still here even though I can't do some of the things I would like to. I've been away from Chiang Mai for a year and a half, but most of the people I met before are still here. There's always frustrations living in a foreign country, but for most Farang in Chiang Mai the benefits outweigh them. You should come and see for yourself. You really can rent a decent room here for $200 a month.

True..a decent studio apartment in the center of Chiang Mai may be about $250/month...I did that..I done with that...Just 40 minutes away, by beautiful countryside, you may find a small but beautiful house and garden for half of that...and meet wonderful real Thai people..Not troubles with the "tourist" environment of big cities...and you become not one more "farang" in town....You may be "the" farang in town...with many privileges. It is not a coincidence that most of the happiest older foreigners in this forum live in villages and not in the city...

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Thailand is a very dangerous place. you put your life at risk every time you drive a vehicle, use electricity, walk down a street, etc. it's not for everybody. Chiang Mai has terrible air quality a few months out of the year. personally i don't think the women are anything special. they are the same in every country of the world. i like Thailand for its beaches and enjoy outdoor activities here. depends what you are looking for.

Very poor response to the OPs request for information about Chiang Mai.

Thailand is a very dangerous place? Compared too what place? What is so

scary about using electricity? You don't have electric in your home country?

After 27 years in Asia, I'd say Chiang Mai is one of the safest places in Asia,

very similar to Japan. And much safer than many places in the U.S. My non-

Thai wife and I feel very comfortable living here in Chiang Mai.

The drivers here are much better than in the Philippines and more courteous

than most places in U.S. Now and then a few wild youngsters on motorbikes,

but nothing really scary or life threatening at all.

From your very negative post it seems you are not talking about Chiang Mai.

Or maybe you didn't notice the OP asked for info about retiring in Chiang Mai.

if you don't think Thailand is dangerous then you are not opening your eyes. take a look at the stones coming up from the pavement, the broken concrete, protruding bolts, etc. any idea how many older people stumble, trip and fall on Thai sidewalks every year and end up in Thai hospitals with severe injuries? you don't think the electrical infrastructure is dangerous here with very few places with earth ground, live circuits hanging open on fallen wires, etc. ever read the Thai newspapers? I do. a very high number of people (including children) are electrocuted in Thailand every year. how many other countries in the world do tourists get electrocuted in hotel swimming pools? did you read about the bus sign that fell down in Jomtien and almost killed an older Swedish tourist?

your assessment of the "courteous drivers in Thailand" is absurd. nothing scary or life threatening? come on...get real. have you ever read the statistics of road fatalities and injuries each year in Thailand? do you drive a car?

for the record, i love Thailand. but i see it for what it is.

Oscar, in case you didn't notice -- the OP asked about Chiang Mai. My comments

were about Chiang Mai.

Everyone knows about the high death tolls on Thai highways. Every place has it's

pros and cons. Nobody is saying Thailand is perfect.

As beautiful as Japan is with all it's modern infrastructure, the electric wires are just

like in Thailand -- the wires on the poles in the cities are like a bowl of spaghetti and

grounded electrical outlets are very rare in the whole country. I lived there 16 years.

If you want pristine streets and sidewalks go live in Europe and pay the 49% tax rate

-- if that is what makes you comfortable.

For me, and many others, Chiang Mai is the very best place. After living many places

in Asia, I found Chiang Mai to be outstanding -- in comparison.

Uh - 49% tax - where in Europe is that paid and by whom ? Second - every country in Europe has its own fiscal structure, so there is no such thing as a 'European' tax rate. Maybe you are a wealthy person...i've never been, never will be, and i've never paid more than HALF that tax-rate in my entire life.

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Uh - 49% tax - where in Europe is that paid and by whom ?

Current top rate of income tax in UK is 45% (reduced from 50% a couple of years back). Add on National Insurance and the loss of benefits and allowances as your salary climbs, and you can easily give away half your salary to the taxman every month. Then you can add on the tax take if you have a company provided car and fuel card etc, oh, and not to mention 20% VAT and a green levy on your fuel bills.

And you can always look at what President Hollande would have you pay in France - he has promised 75% as a top rate of income tax.

Edited by BenCM
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My tips:

Don't burn your boats, keep a place back home and rent here for a year - the exchange rate is probably going to go in your favour in any event.

Understand the political situation but do not get involved in it. You cannot vote, so give politics a miss.

Realise that the law on lese majeste means that a very big event in Thailand (that is probably not too far away) cannot be talked about openly.

Immigration rules – do your research before you come, obey them and do not whine about them when here.

Learn a bit of Thai and make Thai friends – they are, in the main, generous and hospitable people.

After a year, get a 5 year driving licence – handy as an ID card and you can sometimes use it to avoid paying the inflated farang price.

Understand that corruption and bribery is not always seen as that wrong here, and finding out that you have paid someone's commission on something is not uncommon.

Be extremely cautious of the lawyers, real estate agents and financial advisors who advise you on investments/returns.

Be extremely cautious of those who advise you on setting up a Thai company to get around restrictions on working and property ownership – a lot of the advice is often poor or wrong and designed to relieve you of money.

Properly understand your vulnerability as a foreigner in any property deal. Do not get caught out not owning the land your new house is built on!

Make sure you have proper insurance for everything you want to do here – especially if you want to ride a motorbike.

Be prepared to travel for a month or so in the burning season - there are many flights out of CNX to a beach somewhere.

Learn the difference between expats who live here because they really want to, and those that are running away from something back home.

Go with the flow, enjoy yourself, but keep common sense as your primary tool in any decision.

In short, if you are sensible you can enjoy a lovely retirement here with a good standard of living. The fact that you have sought out this board and asking questions suggests you are approaching this in the right way.

Best of luck and enjoy your retirement.

+1

Excellent well-balanced advice.

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Got a friend who came to CM on vacation, found a good girl and they started a relationship. He's 66, so decided to stay and retire. Stubborn in that he refuses to even attempt to try even the very basics of Thai, mad that employees of 7-11, and other stores, don't speak English, thought everything should be as it is back in the States, he barely made it 6 months and decided to go back to the States.

As for me, I wouldn't live anywhere else BUT Chiang Mai. I'm 65 in a few weeks, my wife is 55 just before, and we have a great life here. Learn some of the basics of the language, and you'll find it much easier to get by. But, as others have said, come and spend 6-8 weeks, or even 2-3 months here, before you make your decision. Come with an open mind, and realize this ain't Kansas any more, Toto, and you'll be fine.

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Uh - 49% tax - where in Europe is that paid and by whom ?

Current top rate of income tax in UK is 45% (reduced from 50% a couple of years back). Add on National Insurance and the loss of benefits and allowances as your salary climbs, and you can easily give away half your salary to the taxman every month. Then you can add on the tax take if you have a company provided car and fuel card etc, oh, and not to mention 20% VAT and a green levy on your fuel bills.

And you can always look at what President Hollande would have you pay in France - he has promised 75% as a top rate of income tax.

Holland has 52% top rate, which already starts at about 55000 euro gross income. Depending on the tax-treaty of your income country with Thailand, there can be a huge fiscal benefit living here.

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Lots of good posts generally positive about CM and rightly so IMO.

I've been here married with a family for over ten years now and I can't complain, although sometimes I still do. All I would add is if you are looking for more than bargirls and a beach to park your bum every day then CM is as good a place as any to give a whirl.

And of course as an ex pat you meet a better class of chap in CM too. wink.png

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My first choice of a place I could settle in Thailand were Chiang Mai – a wonderful area with a beautiful nature and very quiet, just one get out of the town. However later, when I had the possibility for an early retirement I choose an island down south.

I do not regret I moved to Thailand and I have been living here permanently for some eight years now. I am also happy I did not settle in Chiang Mai, as I would miss the ocean, and the weather up there can change from being too hot to bitterly cold. But we all have different preferences, and I still enjoy visiting Chiang Mai.

You may hear different stories about and from people settling in Thailand, may even hear more of the “bad” stories that makes headlines, than the good ones. The country is different from your homeland, and if you wish thing to be same or almost same as home, then Thailand is not a place for you. If you can accept and enjoy the different culture, then go for it…

Wish you good luck with your plan. smile.png

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Uh - 49% tax - where in Europe is that paid and by whom ? Second - every country in Europe has its own fiscal structure, so there is no such thing as a 'European' tax rate. Maybe you are a wealthy person...i've never been, never will be, and i've never paid more than HALF that tax-rate in my entire life.

Well, I'm not European, but numerous friends over the last 5-6 years from Norway, Sweden,

Germany, Belgium, Netherlands and U.K. tell me that most of them pay a tax of 49% plus or

minus, and they say it is common tax rate in many countries of Europe.

If you don't like these numbers, maybe you can tell us the tax rate in these countries.

Edited by BradinAsia
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Uh - 49% tax - where in Europe is that paid and by whom ? Second - every country in Europe has its own fiscal structure, so there is no such thing as a 'European' tax rate. Maybe you are a wealthy person...i've never been, never will be, and i've never paid more than HALF that tax-rate in my entire life.

Well, I'm not European, but numerous friends over the last 5-6 years from Norway, Sweden,

Germany, Belgium, Netherlands and U.K. tell me that most of them pay a tax of 49% plus or

minus, and they say it is common tax rate in many countries of Europe.

If you don't like these numbers, maybe you can tell us the tax rate in these countries.

uk .....

30% tax on income.

20% tax on employment (aka ni payments).

20% tax on purchases (aka vat).

whats that so far?

now add

car tax, tv tax (aka tv licience), council tax, duty on this and that ......... not much left methinks.

Edited by FiftyTwo
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I've lived here for the last few year although I came to Chiangmai 2-3 times per year the prior decade. I enjoy living here and, contrary to at least one post, I've never once experienced any danger or fear of anybody. My guess is you could engage in behavior that would more likely cause you some problems (such as getting drunk and loud at 2 in the morning) but nobody I know here does that (well, almost never....).

As to whether the OP or anybody will like living in Chiangmai (or Timbuktu), it really all depends on your personality and your general attitude about life. I do believe there is a fair percentage of expats who move to another city and/or country as a method to resolve their personal problems (personal relationships, alcohol, inability to maintain a job, etc., etc.) and, lo and behold, those same problems rear their ugly heads here (which ought to give some of those people a clue that maybe it's THEM but usually they again blame the place and move on to some other place to have it happen all over again). All but one of the many expats I know who live here in Chiangmai like living here - in spite of the 2-3 months of crappy air and the horrible traffic at times. But none of that bothers me.

Edited by CMBob
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Thailand is a very dangerous place. you put your life at risk every time you drive a vehicle, use electricity, walk down a street, etc. it's not for everybody. Chiang Mai has terrible air quality a few months out of the year. personally i don't think the women are anything special. they are the same in every country of the world. i like Thailand for its beaches and enjoy outdoor activities here. depends what you are looking for.

if you don't think Thailand is dangerous then you are not opening your eyes. take a look at the stones coming up from the pavement, the broken concrete, protruding bolts, etc. any idea how many older people stumble, trip and fall on Thai sidewalks every year and end up in Thai hospitals with severe injuries? you don't think the electrical infrastructure is dangerous here with very few places with earth ground, live circuits hanging open on fallen wires, etc. ever read the Thai newspapers? I do. a very high number of people (including children) are electrocuted in Thailand every year. how many other countries in the world do tourists get electrocuted in hotel swimming pools? did you read about the bus sign that fell down in Jomtien and almost killed an older Swedish tourist?

your assessment of the "courteous drivers in Thailand" is absurd. nothing scary or life threatening? come on...get real. have you ever read the statistics of road fatalities and injuries each year in Thailand? do you drive a car?

Permit me to respond to your posts this way;

"When despair for the world grows in me and I wake in the night

at the least sound in fear of what my life and my children's lives may be,

I go and lie down where the wood drake rests in his beauty on the water,

and the great heron feeds.

I come into the peace of wild things who do not tax their lives with

forethought of grief.

I come into the presence of still water.

And I feel above me the day-blind stars waiting with their light.

For a time I rest in the grace of the world, and am free."

Try it. Perhaps this can give you some peace. It sounds as if your are in need.

Edited by FolkGuitar
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CM isn't a bad place to spend time but you should come for a couple months and check it out for yourself. If you want western food it is easy to find. If you want to go to stores that cater to your taste in the US then Rimping and Tops will work in that regard. If you want to connect with people from the US you can go inside the moat and visit some of the bars and eating establishments to meet tourists.

After six months or so you should have a good idea if this place is for you. There are plenty of other places in Thailand that have different attractions (i.e beaches, bars and babes) but CM works for me.

I spent a year living close to the city before I realized I wasn't going to the bars and restaurants that I thought I might want when I first moved here. I got a nice house in San Sai and haven't regretted it but I suspect I will when I go to the airport for my yearly trip back to the US to file taxes and listen to relatives ask why I want to live in SEA.

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Neither of us are Thai..

then how could you buy a house?

We dealt directly with a Developer / Owner for our Moo Baan and were doing a land lease for 30yrs. and an option for more if needed .It was very easy to have this done. smile.png

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We went there to Chiang Mai in Oct. for 10 days and loved it so much we bought a brand new house and plan on retiring there next year. This was our first time to travel to Thailand but we have researched it, and decided this was the place. I'm going back to CM in April to see how the house build is doing and put the finishing touches on my kitchen. Neither of us are Thai and we can't wait to move there.. We never had a bad experience when we were their ..

Did you buy a house or a condo?

We bought a real nice house...

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We went there to Chiang Mai in Oct. for 10 days and loved it so much we bought a brand new house and plan on retiring there next year. This was our first time to travel to Thailand but we have researched it, and decided this was the place. I'm going back to CM in April to see how the house build is doing and put the finishing touches on my kitchen. Neither of us are Thai and we can't wait to move there.. We never had a bad experience when we were their ..

You might when you find out that neither of you own the land your house is being built on.

We know we don't own the land, its on a 30yr lease..

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There is a big difference between what goes on in Thailand and what touches a farang who is retired here. My first visit was on a layover coming back from Sudan, but it was June, 1973 and there was big issues on the streets of BKK. The hotel people suggested that I not leave the hotel. Later, when living in Honolulu, I visited Chiang Mai twice and became interested in the history of norhern Thailand.

I came one last time for a month before finally retiring here a little over two years ago. I met and "registered" with a Thai woman (she is 53, not 22) whom I met at a friend's house on my final visit.

It is my belief that quality of life anyone retiring in a foreign country is seriously degraded if they do not have an ACTIVE interest in the culture of the country and an interst in learning at least some of the language. Thai traditional Ayurvedic medicine was a strong interest as was Yoga.

Yes, driving in Thailand is different that driving in the U.S. or most of Europe. My wife did all of the driving for the first couple of months until I could figure out some of the Thai "rules" of the road. A little over a year after arriving, I bought a motorbike and have been doining well after adapting to what is here.

If you come with the idea of spending spare time in the bars, then you have to accept that the women who work in the bars do so because they want/need your money to support their family in the countryside. I have a theory that most of the farang who complain and whine alot simply do not have anything to do and are bored. They have nothing to do except sit around and complain and drink.

Bottom line --- Come and spend 3-4 months before making a committment. Figure out what you want to do; not just in Chiang Mai but around S.E. Asia. If you are a reader then read more than the TV forum. Bottom line, you will do much better if you have an active involvement with the country and culture before and after you move here.

Hope this helps

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I have spent 8 years in Honduras and about the same in Panama

Costa Rica,,,in San Jose do not go to atm after dark,,,if the lady boys or crack heads don't get you the poice will

the second you get a house you are a target,,,need a full time live in maid to ensure you house is not looted when you go out

personal safety is firly OK but theft is a majoe problem as the penalties are almost noyjhing so crime does pay here

also look at the government policies the last 2 ot 3 years...it appears they are out to screw all the ex pats

Central America is CORRUPT abd being an e pat makes you a millionare target

I have been hurt twice in Panama (which tries to hide the corrupotion) by the corruptkion there and there is no legal recourse to seek justice

it seems like a pattern there,,,first Costa Rica rolled out the red carpet fro the ex pats then yanked it out from under them

and now it seems they are out to etract as much as they can from the foreignors who have not been able to sell and get out

then Panama was next ad they are doing the same

now it seems to Colombias (especially Medajin) turn

and they will probably do the same in the net five years

then it will be Equador's turn

I am trying to seel my last house there and move to Asia

I realize there is corruption here as well,,,but I havent been touched by it yet except for immigratoin wanting to help me with a visa for only a 12k baht tip and I spend 6 months/year there

I have been to Chiang Mai and liked it there very much

I would like to retire there but am afraid of the burning season and how the smoke will affect my health

and I hear the burning season is getting longer

any comments on this situation would be greatly appreciated

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I have been to Chiang Mai and liked it there very much

I would like to retire there but am afraid of the burning season and how the smoke will affect my health

and I hear the burning season is getting longer

any comments on this situation would be greatly appreciated

It's bad for a week or two each year.

But not bad enough to make me ill.

Might be different if I had poor health, or existing respiratory problems.

As for buying a house on lease (or whatever), not a good time with civil war/unrest approaching fast.

Edited by FiftyTwo
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I have been to Chiang Mai and liked it there very much

I would like to retire there but am afraid of the burning season and how the smoke will affect my health

and I hear the burning season is getting longer

any comments on this situation would be greatly appreciated

It's a delightful place to live. There are some periods when it's not so great, but most areas have those... Blizzards, earthquakes, typhoons or hurricanes, tornadoes, floods or droughts... No place is perfect all the time. But Northern Thailand comes pretty close, and Chiang Mai's ability to provide all the creature comforts at relatively low cost makes it very attractive.

Right now there is some major political unrest, but perhaps that's the perfect time to buy into the area. Nothing affects prices as much as political upheaval, and fortunes are made and lost in times like these. Those who dare, win. Frankly, having seen the way the last Coup was handled (with unloaded rifles) there is far more to worry about if one is a business owner here rather than a retired ex-pat.

Come back to town, rent for a year, then make up your mind. No need to buy a condo immediately. If there is more political unrest, condo prices will probably plummet. Right now there are far more condos than there are buyers, and a lot more condos being built. Your timing may just be perfect!

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