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Price Per Square Meter For High-End House Construction?


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I realize the title might read as a 'How long is a piece of string?' type of query...;)

I've built a couple houses before in LOS (and I'm well aware of the struggles and inherent risks), but it's been several years since the last one, and while it was nice it wasn't 'AAA' quality.

I'm thinking of building in the Kanchanaburi area, with a living area of ~600 square meters and a budget of 25K-30K per sq m- this is close to double the budget for the last house I built in both cost and size. I used small, 'local' construction companies before, but now I'm thinking of going with a bigger firm with a (hopefully) better reputation to go along with it, along with improved fit-and-finish (which is usually where the biggest headaches reside).

I'd like opinions on whether my budget sounds realistic as far as being able to expect a proper build standard, and I'd especially like to hear the names of any recommended construction firms (ideally they'd be able to show me examples of their previous work beyond simple photos- I'd be happy to visit any current or completed projects).

Horror stories/cautionary tales/general comments would also be most welcome.:)

Basically, I want to know if my budget is in the ballpark.

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I don't think you're far adrift, 'average' cost is 12-15 k/m2 ours (definitely not average) was about 22k/m2.

Note, we are in outer BKK, Kan may well be different due to lack of high end contractors.

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WOW, for that price, it better be "high end". I know it's different costs at different locations. I live in Chiang Mai and you can get a decent high end build here for 15k sq met. You're talking about a 15 mil baht house, did I get that right?

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WOW, for that price, it better be "high end". I know it's different costs at different locations. I live in Chiang Mai and you can get a decent high end build here for 15k sq met. You're talking about a 15 mil baht house, did I get that right?

I think you have a diferent understanding about high end as the OP, or you're talking about the construction only, excluding the finishes.

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WOW, for that price, it better be "high end". I know it's different costs at different locations. I live in Chiang Mai and you can get a decent high end build here for 15k sq met. You're talking about a 15 mil baht house, did I get that right?

You need to get out a bit more and have a look at the 200 million baht houses.

They dont have el cheapo Cotto tiles fitted.

These houses are best viewed on the west side of the river in Bkk.

Think imported marble and granite for starters, that dont cost 200 baht psm.

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WOW, for that price, it better be "high end". I know it's different costs at different locations. I live in Chiang Mai and you can get a decent high end build here for 15k sq met. You're talking about a 15 mil baht house, did I get that right?

I think you have a diferent understanding about high end as the OP, or you're talking about the construction only, excluding the finishes.

Yup- basically I got a pretty nice house built as far as the basic construction was concerned and I had few complaints, but the finishing left a lot to be desired- for what I paid I'd say I got good value, but now I want something better. This is going back about eight years, and while I retain my knowledge of what it takes to get something built, I'm out of the loop as far as prices are concerned.;)

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Everyone's version of high end is different. For most people's definition, your budget will get there. However, some people's tastes goes well into the 50K++ range.

What architectural style are you doing?

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In Chonburi I work off a budget cost of 10k per metre construction only. This may increase to 15k/m2 if unusual circumstances and/or higher quality materials. Fittings and all furnishings range from 10 to 15k. This is using craftmen who are used to working on farang projects and guarantee timings and budget costs (hence the higher cost). I would say your numbers are realistic.

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I have used a company named Four Pattana a couple of times and found they were very good, my house is still looking new after 5 years and they recently built a large house very high end build and finish, great design by one of their in house architects.

I dealt with Khun Opas who took control of each stage. Their office is off Ladplakhao rd, Ladprao, Bangkok. Google their exact address and phone number.

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Im only a poor isaan resident, or soon to be, for top quality (isaan farmer style) i estimated 20 k/m2. This is all finished with good material. Double cavity brick. Exposed beams ceiling. Water tower, pump, electrics 3 phase 26 breakers. The house is about 220 m2.

To each his/ her own, you can do things cheaper and thats fine, but if u want a good product u have to pay for it. I recon your calc are ok.

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For 25 - 35,000 you will get a really nice house in the Provence. Using your numbers, excluding the cost of the structure you will have a budget of 15-17k to 25-27k on the fit out. That is enough in the Provence to get a beautiful house with a bit of wow factor.

I am currently renovating my condo in Bangkok. From bare concrete the cost is around 40,000 per square meter ( not including furniture). It will be a beautiful condo and hi end but it's certainly not obnoxiously opulent for that price.

Your biggest problem will be finding a contractor in the Provence that has access to and regularly deals in high end materials to deliver you the complete package.

If I could offer one piece of advice it would be don't skimp on your architect/ designer. Choose the best architect you can and figure it will at least cost you a minimum of 1,000 baht per square meter for a place your size. A good architect will save you money and has the industry contacts from contractors to materials suppliers that can make your life easier. Bangkok has the deepest pool of architects so it's worth checking our a few here if you can.

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i was told 20K per sq mt ,thats 5 years ago ,we built , turned out Ok ,builders worked hard , team of 30 , good finish , worked from sun up to sunset ,finished in 8 months ,anybody fancy buying house on the banks mekong ,lives moved on

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Thank you all for the replies.

I'm planning on a modern courtyard style home. I saw a few house plans today that suit my style in the 30K per sq/m range- I've seen nothing but sketches and haven't yet talked to the builder, but I liked what they had on offer- I've no idea of their reputation, and I'll visit their office in the next couple of weeks to make an assessment of what they can do for me (I'm researching companies- any suggestions would be most welcome). I'm still a ways from breaking ground (perhaps I'd be able to start in late October), but at least now I have somewhere to begin my search. As far as the architectural plan goes, I would probably opt for an existing design modified to my own needs and specifications (I'll also be building a fairly large man-cave separate from the rest of the house where I can hide from my family and have a bit of peace;)).

Enough time had passed since my last construction project that much of the pain has faded (in much the same way that we remember the good times and forget the hangovers), but I know it will be a struggle to get what I really want...

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Don't know about sqm maybe 160 per floor but building a pretty nice two floor, 3/4 bedroom villa in Nakhon Sawan province for 2.5m THB Excluding land). Usual horror stories with making up front payments but managed to save the situation with police aid and now finishing off with 'pay as you go' to a new foreman (within the original contract price).

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»Price Per Square Meter For High-End House Construction?«


I recently build a 300+ sq.m. house, not “high end” or luxury, but in the better end. I used local Thai constructors. Finished almost 4 years ago. About same time, started a bit later, my neighbor build an about 500 sq.m. high-end villa, using a farang controlled building constructor.


I ended up with around 25k bath per sq.m. – my neighbor had a budget of 50k bath per sq.m.


One difference in price may be the choice of building constructor, as many use sub-contractors, and every time a job is sub-contracted some profit are placed on top of the costs. I saw many of my Lao-workers continue at my neighbor’s house, when finished at mine – so same Lao-workers, whilst the (farang) building constructor could be considered as a project manager; which can be very useful if he does a good job.


Another difference was the choice of finishing products, like doors and windows, floor tiles, bathroom fittings, etc. I worked with a more “down to earth” budget, whilst the neighbor was rather high-end with polished sand stone floors and designer doors, but not up in the extreme luxury level.


Since I finished the construction of my house the labor costs has gone up, the new higher minimum wage, and also some increase in materials. In the TV news feed were stories about some building constructors taking about 30 percent price hike. However, the costs may cheaper up north than where I am at Koh Samui.


I think 25k-30k bath per sq.m. is in the lower end, if you consider high-end construction. My building contractor was also sub-contractor for some of the more luxury style “AAA high-end” villas in the neighborhood, and their budget were 70k bath and way up per sq.m. – however depending of finishing, if you for example want slate floor tiles and teak wood doors and teak parquet in the ball room with the nature stone water fall and the side wall. I saw some of villas he was building, and they were more than amazing…


My basic construction; that was the raw cement work, brick walls, plaster, steel construction for roof, basic plumbing and electric installation; was about half my budget or around 4 million baht, the other half for roof tiles, finishing and installations. I used fairly average materials, like floor tiles for about 300 baht per sq.m. (a few 600 baht a sq.m.), wall tiles between some 200 baht a sq.m. and up to 400 baht, uPVC doors and windows from Hoffen that were only slightly priced over local made aluminum frames, normal internal wooden doors, standard electric fittings, little up-end designer bath room fittings and a European style kitchen; all-in-all another some 4 million bath. Square meter price also depends of how many “wet rooms” included, I have 5 bathrooms; a spa room with Jacuzzi, sauna and shower/toilet; an outdoor Jacuzzi; and a guest toilet.


I would today merely think in the level of 30k-50k bath per sq.m. if you wish some high-end standard, but not AAA luxury – which also is relative and a question of design and taste. However, the trick is to make something that costs a bit less, but looks and feels like luxury; that’s what I tried to do…



»Horror stories/cautionary tales/general comments would also be most welcome«


I will tell you my experience; then you can pick what may make sense for your future project. I can sometime compare my experience to my neighbor’s house, as we build almost simultaneously.


I did the drawing myself (pencil, erase rubber and millimeter paper) and had an architect firm to make the final computer design, steel calculations and applying for building permission. Drawings are essential, so you don’t need to make changes – or major changes – underway; but you probably know that from your previous construction projects. I spent quite some time to check the building engineers work in details and have errors corrected, so everything was as I had planned it, and as the architect said it could be build – because he also said: »We can draw everything, but that does not mean it can be build.« Furthermore I tried not to make anything more complicated, than a local building constructor could deal with it.


A little advise about cement structure. Use waterproof cement for all that only costs about 300 baht extra per cubic meter, but with waterproof cement you avoid cracks, which often is a problem in Thailand. Keep the basic structure in the forms for at least 3 days whenever possible and wrap film around posts and leave it for about a month, so they do not dry up to quick and crack. Cement is a chemical process and takes 28 days to cure – well it will continue forever, if treated well – avoiding to fast drying limits cracks. Make sure floors are watered as soon as the cement is dry enough for splashing water out. Also for plaster, you can add a bit of TOA 211 (or similar chemical) that will eliminate cracks in the mix – could clearly see the difference at my walls compared to my neighbor’s, the were filling cracks all over and ended up with an extra coat to cover the fills.


I used the so-called comfort blocks (aerated concrete) for walls in all aircon-cooled rooms, a fairly new product in Thailand originating from Sweden (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aerated_concrete). I made double walls to avoid visible posts. Comfort blocks are highly heat isolating, so the extra price for the blocks will be saved in electricity – we hardly use the aircons, as the house never get too warm due to the comfort blocks. SCG Cement Thai (Home Mart) manufacture them. For non-temperature essential walls we used the normal cheap blocks, whilst for outdoor walls at side of the house, we used the burned clay bricks (with holes or tubes).


When I build my house we made a steel construction for the roof, but used the new galvanized steel roof battens, which were cheaper than normal – and rusting – steel battens. When I checked roof tiles and realized how much is involved in a water tight roof, I chose SCG Cement Thai to make it all – even my building constructor kindly offered to put the roof tiles up for free, if I just bought them. A total roof enterprise from SCG is fairly cheap in labor costs and they give a 5-year guarantee; you never know where a Thai building constructor is 4 years later when the rain comes through the roof, and if you can find him it may still end up as your problem. Today SCG can make the whole roof steel construction in galvanized steel.


Unfortunately I did a mistake choosing the German Hoffen uPVC door and window product – well, the product is Okay, but the Thai branch lacks the German trustworthiness. We had many problems, and even they had a team coming to measure all themselves, some of the doors and windows were made in wrong size. Took months to get it done, as Hoffen don’t have local workers, but shall send a team from Bangkok and we had to wait until they had some other jobs down south. SCG provides a similar product, Windsor Vinyl, and seems to have local teams at various Home Mart branches – we used Windsor Vinyl for gutters and they did a perfect job. Another possibility is the typical aluminum frames, but in a good quality, which can be produced and serviced quickly locally – or of course AAA high-end teak wood.


My wooden indoor doors I unfortunately saved down to the middle of 3 price levels, today I will recommend the best quality, the hardest wood, due to the extreme dry and wet weather in Thailand – had one door in that quality for the sauna, works perfect – alternative may be teak wood.


At the end of the basic construction I made an agreement with my building constructor to “borrow” 3 selected of his workers to continue with the finishing. I had them working weekly on salary and could ask them to slow down, so we together could care for details. One of them had flair for painting and I taught him how to do – I have a friend in my homeland that owns a painting firm and he was down here on holiday and gave us some good hints. Choose the best quality paint, really not worth saving there, and the best primer – we used TOA, but there may be other equal good brands. Let the plaster dry up minimum a month before painting. I did two times primer with a day or two between each, and then three layers of final paint, preferably with a day between each layer. Now some 4 years later it all sits there and looks as good as new. My neighbor used another brand (and cheaper quality) and only one layer primer and two layers of paint. Some walls did not last for a year, so at the end his building constructor asked what we had done, since our paint lasted, whilst they had to repaint part of the house.


Also the “tile man” was my own enterprise and the agreement was, that if the job was not Okay, he should bang it up and do it again – which would costs me the materials – of course he did not want that, so he cared for the details from the beginning.


For the bathrooms I chose a one-piece Mogen designer toilet standing up against the wall. However the steel brackets holding the seats quickly rusted and broke, so I had to change the seats. Ordered new seats and paid deposit at the supplier shop, nothing happened for several month. Wrote to the manufacturer, no reply. Unfortunately the beautiful looking toilet is impossible to get into from side (totally closed) or behind (against the wall), so that became a bit of a headache and took long time to find a replacement seat that would fit in size – finally I did, but next time I shall build a house, I will look at serviceability before beautiful expensive design; I don’t fancy the Thai idea of installing something, it works when finished, and when it don’t work anymore – no matter how long or short time – don’t service, but bang it down and install a new.


I chose inverter aircons, they are a bit more expensive to buy, some 40 to 50 percent more, but saves between 25 and 40 percent in power. A nominal 9,000 BTU running all night costs in average about 300 baht or less a month in electricity measured on my bill (little difficult to compare, as kWh price varies after how much one use, and it’s also a question of indoor/outdoor temperature, here around 28-30 centigrade at night outdoor, indoor between 20 and 25, depending of whom uses the room). The aerated concrete blocks have also a part in the electricity consumption.


As I stay in an area with many power black outs, it was important for me to deal with that. Water comes from a well and the “nightmare” is a cold evening under the shower with shampoo in the hair beginning to run down at the face and irritating the eyes.

Black out: meaning no water and no light…

I decided for a water tank on the attic and a pressure pump at the well, so the tank is automatic filled. A hot water solar panel – which is quite affordable, mine was about 40k bath some 5 years ago – which both supplies hot water during black out and saves power. I have small instant water heaters to boost the water temperature and secure instant hot water from the tap.

I also made a separate electric circuit for back-up lighting. After many tests – one thing that did not work as planned from the beginning – I ended up with a very simple solution, just using a 500W UPS, with the internal battery exchanged for a larger external, that provides enough power for several hour light with LED bulbs. I made a totally separated circuit, as the UPS neutral cannot be wired to the mains neutral. That system supplies a lamp in each bathroom, some of the stair lamps, one of the lamps in the kitchen, and a few outdoor lamps – we can survive some hours of black out.

I also made separate circuits for TV sets, each with an UPS placed in the pump room, so no beep-noise in bedrooms if power fails. UPS also protects the electronics from voltage deviation and spikes.


In general I use mainly LED bulbs, but back when I was drawing the house LEDs where fairly new and not that efficient, so many of my fittings are E27 for 220V. That limits the variety of LEDs on the market today, so using MR16 fittings, preferably 12V, gives more to choose from – a bulb is not a bulb, sometimes directional down light, spots and light temperature makes a huge difference in the atmosphere, both indoor and outdoor.


I learned it is very important to be at the construction site yourself; even you have a good foreman (or foremen), motivated workers and a building construction project manager that you pay a high price per square meter, there may be things you cannot see when the house is finished, but which gives you problems later; like plumbing. I was at the site every day, my neighbor hardly came; I have had very few things to correct, not really any major problems, my neighbor had a lot – including rain coming through the roof all over.



Hope my experience may be of interest – if you should have any questions you think I can be of help with, you are welcome to ask here or by PM – I wish you good luck with your future project. smile.png

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Aussie guy built a great house at mukdahan. He showed me the pix of the building. Looks top quality. He used a farang builder from pattaya i think.

If u google 'mukdahan manor' and get in touch with don, he will probably give u the builder contact number.

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Thanks for the thoughts and advice, Khun Per- I appreciate the effort you put into that post.

I want to keep the construction cost under 20mil if possible, which- for ~600m- works out to about 33K per sq m- this would include all finishing- I really don't want to go higher than that. I realize this isn't going to be Four Seasons rental villa level, but it should be pretty nice in the sense of my being able to expect straight lines and proper alignment, as well as wood and tiles on the better end of the spectrum. I would raise the budget slightly to get exactly what I want, but I don't think I'll have to.

At any rate, I'll be visiting some contractors soon- I'll report my findings.:)

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WOW, for that price, it better be "high end". I know it's different costs at different locations. I live in Chiang Mai and you can get a decent high end build here for 15k sq met. You're talking about a 15 mil baht house, did I get that right?

That sounds to cheap. How do you define "high end"? Does it include things like granite and/or hardwood (e.g., teak or mahogany) floors; all marble or granite walls & floors in bathrooms; best quality materials & fixtures; solid wood doors; etc. etc.?

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WOW, for that price, it better be "high end". I know it's different costs at different locations. I live in Chiang Mai and you can get a decent high end build here for 15k sq met. You're talking about a 15 mil baht house, did I get that right?

You need to get out a bit more and have a look at the 200 million baht houses.

They dont have el cheapo Cotto tiles fitted.

These houses are best viewed on the west side of the river in Bkk.

Think imported marble and granite for starters, that dont cost 200 baht psm.

Size is not what really defines "high end"? One can have a very high end house of 500 sq. mt. and be way way under 200M baht price.

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Better to build construction first with one contractor. 12.5 k our construction team cost; but if going via a farang they'll probably add up on to of that for their profit and pay the less to a Thai project manager. Depends if you can communicate details effectively to a Thai speaker. Not saying the extra price isn't some times worth it if you desire to have that English contact point.

Then finishing is down to how materials you choose. One marble is not the same as another; for example we looking at marble floors and the cost price for material is between 850 and 6000 bht per sqm! Depending color, pattern and location it's come from, like other side world or local etc. Fitting/ laying it down cost inc labour and the other needed materials all in around 350 to 550 per sqm, more maybe if you use the shop link. Don't want to be stingy on the fitting when nice materials n then it comes out laid all wonkey naa

Same as above applies to granite.

Some tiles these days are more expensive than real marble, pretty crazy; so be sure to research widely all materials rather than just let designer say this or that; design with good consultation and research can achieve great results with out breaking the bank and even better for same or less money than just going direct to a cotto sales room.

Like Thai marble at 850 per sqm looks much better in my view than cotto 1400 bht tiles

Custom build kitchens are worth the money and should be shopped around for.

Also consider built in or free standing furniture. Both have advantages and draw backs.

Too many variables to let some on say 25 k all in package. But depends if you be bothered with the extra work.

As a ball park 25 ok but could be more or less. Up to u as they say

Sent from my iPad using Thaivisa Connect Thailand

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gee you guys like to spend big!!

we have a great local builder who is taking care of all construction for about 3500 B/m2

we buy all the materials when he needs them. we choose whether to use the cheapest, or the top end stuff, or something in the middle

this works for us, as we are sure of what materials are going into the house, as we purchased them

having someone else choose what materials to use would worry me, as i would think maybe he is using the cheapest steel, cement, paints etc to increase their profits

it has been hard work, but enjoyable. luckily the wife is fully behind the project too, and has been great when dealing with the builders

the chief builder does not speak english, so this is maybe why we got a good price

good luck with your project OP....... make sure to put some pictures and designs up for us all to follow thumbsup.gif

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gee you guys like to spend big!!

we have a great local builder who is taking care of all construction for about 3500 B/m2

we buy all the materials when he needs them. we choose whether to use the cheapest, or the top end stuff, or something in the middle

this works for us, as we are sure of what materials are going into the house, as we purchased them

having someone else choose what materials to use would worry me, as i would think maybe he is using the cheapest steel, cement, paints etc to increase their profits

it has been hard work, but enjoyable. luckily the wife is fully behind the project too, and has been great when dealing with the builders

the chief builder does not speak english, so this is maybe why we got a good price

good luck with your project OP....... make sure to put some pictures and designs up for us all to follow thumbsup.gif

That's a good way to work, as you are more or less guaranteed the quality of your construction.

However the high end is actually defined by the finishing (end). You can have your interior walls rendered with cement like all the house here, or with plaster like at home.

The latter cost you money as i've never seen a Thai doing it properly, so you need a foreigner who will overcharge you.

You can for the same house spend 300K on uPvc windows or 500K. ,Both are called uPvc windows and may look the same for an outsider, but the difference in price you will notice after you moved in.

This are only a few details, but it's the money you spent on the finishing that defines the high or low end.

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To lessen risks at top end one uses a separate arcitect, engineer , quantative surveyor, project manager/ builders and then the separate consultant / engineer to check all the site and materials as they go in throughout the project as well as standards of wiring and plumbing etc etc.

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