Na Haew district, Loei

[Briggsy]

I have come over to the Isaan Forum again. Sometimes it just gets too heated in the other forums.

I recently visited Na Haew district in Loei, technically in Isaan, but as close to the North, both geographically and topographically as you can get. The girlfriend described the people as khorm. This term, I believe, is derived from the word Khmer but is used colloquially to mean ethnically mixed, not mainstream Thai. Na Haew is a district but its centre has a population and level of commercial facilities in line with that of a Thai village. It must be the least "district-like" district in Thailand. There are many informal or semi-formal crossings into Laos. The main one is Meuang Phrae, 2kms after the district offices. There was a brisk trade of goods (M150, Lay crisps, electrical wiring, etc.) going into Laos. I observed nothing coming back. The border is a stream. There is a sala overlooking the stream in which a Thai soldier sits bored.

I visited Phu Suan Sai National Park which has a road in a loop running close to the Laos border. In the centre of this loop there is a campsite at 1408m above sea level. You have to walk up from 960m. It is about 3 to 4 hours walk. I didn't do this. I would have had to carry the girlfriend up! There is a birdwatching walk of 2km near to the NP HQ. It runs through a damp bamboo forest and the path is a haunt of leeches. No leeches on other paths though.

We stayed in Na Haew Resort, which has very nice bungalows at 700 Baht a night. You can tell the owner makes a big effort. I would certainly recommend this resort.

If I get round to it, I will add some photos.

Has anyone ever been there?

[SantiSuk]

No to your question, but how do you manage to persuade Thai GF to visit such interesting places like this (and the Emerald triangle that you visited a couple of weeks back)?

My TW was at best moderately interested during a week in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh - not enough decent shops! Khmer temples - bah! Khmer food - yuck! Khmer history (Pol Pot/Toul Sleng) - moderately interesting (only after a lot of work from me and mainly the reactions of her local Thai-Khmen mates on Facebook!)

[SunsetT]

Very interesting.......Thanks for the info.

[Briggsy]

Hi Santisuk

Actually, the Emerald Triangle was just me on the motorbike. This Loei trip was 2 of us in a rented car.

In answer to your question, and in the case of my GF only.

1. Keep away from Cambodia. In Thai stereotyping, Cambodia, Khmers and anything connected, has associations of dark-skinned, dangerous, lawless, violent thieves. We have been to Laos and Indonesia but I would not even bothering suggesting Cambodia. Thailand domestic trips will always get the best reaction.

2. Keep the trip short. My GF gets bored easily. 4 nights should do it.

3. Avoid too much strenuous exertion. "I'm TIRED." This is not me speaking.

4. Avoid leeches at all costs.

5. Have food on hand or a sound plan to get some at any time of the day and night.

6. Ask her where she wants to visit. It will most likely be a temple off Facebook. Plan the trip around that.

7. Pay for everything.

[Patriot]

Hi Briggsy,

Top post!

I did the same Loei trip in 2003, based ourselves in Chiang Khan at the Loogmai Guesthouse, a delightful family run affair with 4 rooms.

We timed it to coincide with the Morlam festival, which was very entertaining and of course the usual side-show of the neighbouring village hooligans using the occasion to stage pitched battles ..... I'm sure they were all Tottenham Hotspur fans!!

One can never get bored of driving around Loei and the trips included the superb temple at Dan Sai, sunrise at Pu Reua, an attempt to ascend Pu Kradeua (gave up; twisted ankle .. embarrasing!!) a drive around the Na Haew National Park and of course the Amphur town itself. We sat for ages watching the Lao folk wading back and forth under the watchful, but bored eye of the Thai sentry.

I'm looking forward to when my son is a couple of years older so we can troop up there again. My wife is up for any of these trips 3 or 4 nights with a promise of a visit to Central in Udon Thani!!

Cheers again for the post

CC

[Briggsy]

Hi Patriot.

That sounded like a very well planned trip of yours.

I also badly twisted my ankle at Phu Kradeung! That was last year. I half-believe that there was an evil spirit at play. Maybe I have been here too long! I had to walk down a further 4 hours on one good leg with a 10 kg pack. I can tell you I suffered. Next time I will make an offering at the shrine not far from the campsite.

[KhunBENQ]

The girlfriend described the people as khorm. This term, I believe, is derived from the word Khmer but is used colloquially to mean ethnically mixed, not mainstream Thai.

Never heard before, but due to the dictionary it really means "Cambodian/Khmer".

My wife says "khamen" which seems to be synonymous.

http://www.thai-language.com/id/155767

About Na Haeo (Na Haew):

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Na_Haeo_District

[Patriot]

Hi Patriot.

That sounded like a very well planned trip of yours.

I also badly twisted my ankle at Phu Kradeung! That was last year. I half-believe that there was an evil spirit at play. Maybe I have been here too long! I had to walk down a further 4 hours on one good leg with a 10 kg pack. I can tell you I suffered. Next time I will make an offering at the shrine not far from the campsite.

No planning at all Briggsy, just grab a map (not the GPS!!) see what may look interesting and go!!

Even the Loogmai Guest house we stumbled upon. One good thing about touring Isaan is that there are hotels and guest houses everywhere.

[kaorop]

Done some of the area on trail bikes, with local loieans, very very nice.

The girls went by car and met up along the way,

they usually didnt do much beyond getting rooms and food sorted unless it was by car, but they were plenty happy.

Theres a guy up there doing trail bike tours hes near Phu Rua, he would know the area, look up "ban aloi resort"

if interested