Ninja 650 R intermittently wont start..NOT the battery!

[illy]

Have read and tried most topic ideas on this problem that I see others have had in similar situations. But mostly the advice has been about battery trouble but I believe its not the issue here.

When I turn the key all lights, dashboard, tailights etc come on as normal and I get the buzzing / clicking sound from the solenoid. I turn the kill switch on and get the usual fuel pump hum. When I hit the starter switch I get a loud clicking from under the battery box area and the usual fuel pump hum, and if I persist the FI lights comes on.

I believe its NOT the battery as i have two fully charged brand new batteries here and the problem is the same with both of them. Also I had my friend bring his identical model bike over and use his battery with the same result. When I put my batteries in his bike it starts no problem.

The problem is intermittent also. there is no pattern to when it will start and when it will just click. the sounds and the process pre starting are exactly the same.. just sometimes it wont start.

Any advise is much appreciated.

[apetley]

I had similar in my CBR. Turned out it was a faulty after market alarm. Ditched that and it worked fine.

[NormanW]

Could be the contacts on your starter button? ?

If so, spray contact cleaner inside and onto the contacts.

Hope this helps

[Brit_Doggie]

geez where to start could be faulty spark plugs solenoid or timing even carb trouble also as mentioned bad contacts, you say not battery you need at least 15 volts to get anything going so yes could be undercharging issue, obvious advice is take to repair shop for cheap labour and parts if required.

[Garry]

Sticking starter relay perhaps. It's a common fault on some other brands.

[wantan]

I would check starter, relay and all contacts like shown in this video. Video is for older bikes but basically should be the same for yours.

[illy]

is the relay the same thing as the solenoid? anyone know the Thai word for it??

Sticking starter relay perhaps. It's a common fault on some other brands.

[wantan]

Pretty sure thai people call it "starter relay" too. Or maybe they say "relay starter" with the typical pronunciation thai people give english words. But shouldn't be that hard to replace yourself (or check it yourself if you have a multimeter). Pictures are from ER-6n, guess it looks the same on your bike:

Edited August 22, 2015 by wantan

[Garry]

is the relay the same thing as the solenoid? anyone know the Thai word for it??

Sticking starter relay perhaps. It's a common fault on some other brands.

Different animal mate. It is not a solenoid. They are generally an easy fix as well. Unplug, plug in a new one. A good thai mechanic and yes there is such a thing in Thailand, will be able to show if it is functioning correctly or not.

[illy]

Pretty sure its the starter relay...

[illy]

Pretty sure thai people call it "starter relay" too. Or maybe they say "relay starter" with the typical pronunciation thai people give english words. But shouldn't be that hard to replace yourself (or check it yourself if you have a multimeter). Pictures are from ER-6n, guess it looks the same on your bike:

relay.png

yep did all this seems to be the problem..will go to Kawa shop and see what a new one costs and try it..

that was very helpful, thanks

[illy]

looks a little corroded in the fuses and connections too..sorry about out of focus smart phone pic.

Edited August 23, 2015 by illy

[Can samui]

Yep, I also think it is the starter relay. Had the same situation on my Versys, the boys at the shop knocked a new one into the bike in 10 minutes.

There is always voltage going into the relay so best way to test it with a meter is to confirm 12 volts going in to the relay and nothing coming coming out. When you get your "clicking" retest with the starter button engaged and if no voltage coming out of the relay then it has failed.

Hope this helps.

[thaiguzzi]

1. Battery. checked.

2. Starter relay, change..

3. Solenoid.

4. Wiring/connections.

# All the above, if the battery is fine, 19 times out of 20 it's the relay.

[illy]

Indeed it was the relay. Just a 500bht part. Hope this thread helps someone in future..esp Wantan's post above.

Edited August 24, 2015 by illy

[Can samui]

Excellent!

[wow64]

Could have been the kawasaki sticker.. Change it for a honda one.. Should start first time.

Sent from my c64

[illy]

Could have been the kawasaki sticker.. Change it for a honda one.. Should start first time.

Sent from my c64

I would buy the Honda CBR 650-F in a heartbeat if I had the money!!! Already had a test ride.. should not have done that!!

[thaiguzzi]

Take the old one to an auto electrical shop, and see if they can match it, especially robust ones are made by Bosch, and keep it as a spare. Price should be half what a bike shop would charge. 500 baht sounds expensive.

[Garry]

Take the old one to an auto electrical shop, and see if they can match it, especially robust ones are made by Bosch, and keep it as a spare. Price should be half what a bike shop would charge. 500 baht sounds expensive.

And buy some non-conductive (silicon type) grease which will help weather proof and stop the connectors from oxidzing. All the plugs on my bike are done this way. You should be able to buy the grease from any mountain bike shop. If you're unsure as to the electrical properties of the grease you've purchased, just dab some grease on an insulated surface, stick in the probes (don't let them touch together) from a multimeter and carry out a resistance check. No sound (mine has the option) or indication, then you are good to go using it as stated above.

[illy]

good ideas. I often use a spray on product by CRC called 'plasticote' not sure if its so great for conductivity but sure protects the corrosive process on many parts.

500bht is not so bad... in Australia that part is about 3000 bht

Take the old one to an auto electrical shop, and see if they can match it, especially robust ones are made by Bosch, and keep it as a spare. Price should be half what a bike shop would charge. 500 baht sounds expensive.

And buy some non-conductive (silicon type) grease which will help weather proof and stop the connectors from oxidzing. All the plugs on my bike are done this way. You should be able to buy the grease from any mountain bike shop. If you're unsure as to the electrical properties of the grease you've purchased, just dab some grease on an insulated surface, stick in the probes (don't let them touch together) from a multimeter and carry out a resistance check. No sound (mine has the option) or indication, then you are good to go using it as stated above.

Edited September 12, 2015 by illy

[Shurup]

good ideas. I often use a spray on product by CRC called 'plasticote' not sure if its so great for conductivity but sure protects the corrosive process on many parts.

500bht is not so bad... in Australia that part is about 3000 bht

Take the old one to an auto electrical shop, and see if they can match it, especially robust ones are made by Bosch, and keep it as a spare. Price should be half what a bike shop would charge. 500 baht sounds expensive.

And buy some non-conductive (silicon type) grease which will help weather proof and stop the connectors from oxidzing. All the plugs on my bike are done this way. You should be able to buy the grease from any mountain bike shop. If you're unsure as to the electrical properties of the grease you've purchased, just dab some grease on an insulated surface, stick in the probes (don't let them touch together) from a multimeter and carry out a resistance check. No sound (mine has the option) or indication, then you are good to go using it as stated above.

Not sure what "plasticote" is but if it dries out and creates a hard layer, it's a no no. I've had a bud with a bike with weird electrical problems. I went to troubleshoot it and found out that the previous owner use the epoxy to weatherproof the battery terminal contacts. Cleaned that shit out and boom! No more electrical gremlins.