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Electronic Starter for Fluorescent Tubes


cigar7

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Where can I buy electronic starters, for T8 36W Fluorescent tubes, such as an Arlen EFS600 or EFS300, or the palmstep OKO6 or turbio starter? Not interested in the glow starters for 10-15b at most electric stores.

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I would like to know too and so spent quite some time searching for an electronic starter available in Thailand to no avail.

Only online sources like Amazon or Alibaba.

I guess over time I will replace existing lamp holders with modern stuff that seems to contain a "quick starter" built in (I have two of those with 18W tubes).

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I would like to know too and so spent quite some time searching for an electronic starter available in Thailand to no avail.

Only online sources like Amazon or Alibaba.

I guess over time I will replace existing lamp holders with modern stuff that seems to contain a "quick starter" built in (I have two of those with 18W tubes).

I replaced one fixture with one of those new fixtures that has an electronic ballast built in, no glow starter, Panasonic brand. The bulb and fixture were dead in 16 months. Nobody sells just the end pieces containing the electronics in Thailand. The electronic ballasts have a high frequency of failure, some electricians, who I met in an electrical store say I was lucky to get 16 months.

If you want long life for florescent tubes, based on a research paper, it seems the best configuration is a magnetic ballast rated for 230v or 240v EEI rating of B2 or better, and a electronic starter like the Arlen. There is a report, that using a 230v magnetic ballast with an electronic starter, has yielded 18 years of life. You can google "advanced information on ballasts for fluorescent lamps" for the report.

advanced information on ballasts for fluorescent lamps.pdf

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If you are replacing things check out the LED options. There are now plug in replacements for just about all options (not sure about the F-tubes). I've been very happy with the LED replacements I have made so far.

LED tubes are available for retrofitting into standard fluoro fittings...BUT....be sure to read the wiring instructions, as all of the tubes I have installed need to be directly connected to the AC with the starter and ballast removed from the circuit.

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And LED may not be what you want if not properly diffused. Can be very bright spots of light in some fixtures. The Panasonic and other brands of florescent are throw away price - I bought 3 yesterday of the 18w size at 169 baht each and have had two larger versions in kitchen for several years now with heavy usage (had to replace bulbs one time). As whole units are snap fitting only have to undo the two wires to replace so not much more work than changing bulb.

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If you are replacing things check out the LED options. There are now plug in replacements for just about all options (not sure about the F-tubes). I've been very happy with the LED replacements I have made so far.

I did look at the LEDs but most of the 4 ft. length tubes give 1650 lumins while regular 4ft. 36 watt Fluorescent Tubes give 2,600 or 2,700 lumins, with a color of 6500 kelvin.

I like and need the extra lumins

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And LED may not be what you want if not properly diffused. Can be very bright spots of light in some fixtures. The Panasonic and other brands of florescent are throw away price - I bought 3 yesterday of the 18w size at 169 baht each and have had two larger versions in kitchen for several years now with heavy usage (had to replace bulbs one time). As whole units are snap fitting only have to undo the two wires to replace so not much more work than changing bulb.

Yes they are low cost, but I don't want to be changing them every 2 years.

I have ordered some electronic fluorescent tube starters from the UK. They claim the starter lasts the life time of the fixture instead of the bulb. There have been reports that some tubes lasted 18 years in a washroom, using an electronic starter and magnetic ballast.

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In point of fact the tubes in the Panasonic and such models are replaceable just like a normal lamp. And to replace the whole item only require reattachment of the electric wire as the units snap into installed plastic holders - so no tools required - only takes as long as it takes to detach/attach wire.

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In point of fact the tubes in the Panasonic and such models are replaceable just like a normal lamp. And to replace the whole item only require reattachment of the electric wire as the units snap into installed plastic holders - so no tools required - only takes as long as it takes to detach/attach wire.

I agree that they are easy to replace, with a small screw driver to connect the wires. But for me, it all comes down to cost, and the frequency of having to do something to get the light back on.

With the new panasonic fluorescent 36w electronic set - it lasted 16 months, 12 hours a day, one on/off cycle per day. The bulb was burnt out along with the electronics, - nothing recoverable.

Some electronic starters claim the starter lasts for the life of the fixture. Some are guaranteed for 10 years but claim to be built to last 20 years. Most 36w tubes are rated for 22,000 hours, and at homeworks there is one on sale for 24 baht, homepro brand is 32 baht. So for me, using it 12 hours a day, a normal tube should last 5 years.

If we look at a 10 year period - panasonic electronic tube set will cost 199 baht (120 months /16 = 7.5) and be replaced 8 times, costing 1600 baht.

With the magnet ballast, electronic starter, initial cost: for fixture, tube and glow starter 199 baht ( homepro panasonic brand on sale). Replace the glow starter with electronic starter 150 baht, and replace tube for 25 baht after 5 years, results in a total cost of (199+150+25) 374 baht, for 10 years. The ballast could fail but my current ballasts (fuji brand) have lasted for more than 20 years. A replacement ballast can be purchased for 79 to 110 baht.

In summary, for 10 years of light (12 hours per day), those panasonic electronic tube sets will roughly cost 1200 baht more and require 7 times more maintenance when compared to a magnetic ballast, with an electronic starter.

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Well unless we are talking factory usage (which may be what you are talking but did not mention) do not believe long term cost will be much of a factor for home use (where most will likely have much less usage than your example). You do not seem to factor in the cost of electric usage (there is much loss with ballasts), looks (slim line design of electronic units), fixtures cost/access - and base overall cost on one unit burning out in a relatively short time.

This only costs 13 baht but not what I want to use in this day and age.

53179.jpg

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I just received a few units of Arlen EFS600 starters from the UK. Here are the specs.

Electronic Starter
200 - 260V 50/60 Hz

Operating temperature -30°C to 75°C
• BS EN60926 & BS EN60927
• Pre-heat 2.2s nominal at 20°C
• Pulse height 1500V max
• Safety shutdown <3.5s at 20°C

Applications Single Wattage
T8 / T12 4-125W
T5 4, 6, 8 & 13W
TC-DD 16-38W
TC-L 18-36W
Circular 22-60W

Comments?

StarterPhotos.docx

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  • 1 month later...

Although not completely related to my topic, this thread seems to be knowledgeable about fluros, electronic starters etc.

Please tell me if I'm in the wrong place. sad.png

I'm about to order my gear to wire up my shed.

I was thinking of going with fluros, but don't know what are the best types to buy, what type and what ballests etc.

I don't know how you work out how many lumens you need in an area, and what type of covering you use in a garage.

Here are some diagrams of my shed.

post-207577-0-34950100-1444886173_thumb.

post-207577-0-39514600-1444886195_thumb.

post-207577-0-59803300-1444886216_thumb.

post-207577-0-59391400-1444886232_thumb.

All the lighting will be attached to the sloping rafters.

I was thinking of having 3 rows of 3 fluros, longwise, in the big area about 35 m2, and the other two rooms, three rows of 3 in each room.

Work bences will go along the wall opposite the door in the big area, and storage and hydrophonics stuff in the other areas.

Any clues?

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If you are replacing things check out the LED options. There are now plug in replacements for just about all options (not sure about the F-tubes). I've been very happy with the LED replacements I have made so far.

I did look at the LEDs but most of the 4 ft. length tubes give 1650 lumins while regular 4ft. 36 watt Fluorescent Tubes give 2,600 or 2,700 lumins, with a color of 6500 kelvin.

I like and need the extra lumins

I just saw a utube video with a guy installing LED Shop Light 38 W @ 3700 L (these are the specs he read out on the box).

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  • 2 weeks later...

Although not completely related to my topic, this thread seems to be knowledgeable about fluros, electronic starters etc.

Please tell me if I'm in the wrong place. sad.png

I'm about to order my gear to wire up my shed.

I was thinking of going with fluros, but don't know what are the best types to buy, what type and what ballests etc.

I don't know how you work out how many lumens you need in an area, and what type of covering you use in a garage.

Here are some diagrams of my shed.

attachicon.gifHeightOfDoor.jpg

attachicon.gifงานป้าทรัพย์ กุฉิ กาฬสินธุ์ 1.jpg

attachicon.gifงานป้าทรัพย์ กุฉิ กาฬสินธุ์ 2.jpg

attachicon.gifงานป้าทรัพย์ กุฉิ กาฬสินธุ์ 3.jpg

All the lighting will be attached to the sloping rafters.

I was thinking of having 3 rows of 3 fluros, longwise, in the big area about 35 m2, and the other two rooms, three rows of 3 in each room.

Work bences will go along the wall opposite the door in the big area, and storage and hydrophonics stuff in the other areas.

Any clues?

Just in case anyone comes up with the same problem, I have an answer to my own question.

I bought one of these:

post-207577-0-80608600-1446249658_thumb.

post-207577-0-06074000-1446249675_thumb.

Wired one temp. in the shed and watched what happened in the night time.

Thought it was brilliant (ho ho), so bought 10 more to install in the shed which will have 3 rooms.

I am pre-wiring the shed with my offsider SWMBO at All Costs or SWMBOaAC.

The lights are easy to work with, and can be cascaded up each other's rear, (reminds me of my Bali friends), which is preety neat I think.

post-207577-0-05729000-1446250066_thumb.

post-207577-0-04162900-1446250085_thumb.

post-207577-0-51305700-1446250105_thumb.

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Although not completely related to my topic, this thread seems to be knowledgeable about fluros, electronic starters etc.

Please tell me if I'm in the wrong place. sad.png

I'm about to order my gear to wire up my shed.

I was thinking of going with fluros, but don't know what are the best types to buy, what type and what ballests etc.

I don't know how you work out how many lumens you need in an area, and what type of covering you use in a garage.

Here are some diagrams of my shed.

attachicon.gifHeightOfDoor.jpg

attachicon.gifงานป้าทรัพย์ กุฉิ กาฬสินธุ์ 1.jpg

attachicon.gifงานป้าทรัพย์ กุฉิ กาฬสินธุ์ 2.jpg

attachicon.gifงานป้าทรัพย์ กุฉิ กาฬสินธุ์ 3.jpg

All the lighting will be attached to the sloping rafters.

I was thinking of having 3 rows of 3 fluros, longwise, in the big area about 35 m2, and the other two rooms, three rows of 3 in each room.

Work bences will go along the wall opposite the door in the big area, and storage and hydrophonics stuff in the other areas.

Any clues?

Just in case anyone comes up with the same problem, I have an answer to my own question.

I bought one of these:

attachicon.gifIMG_4963.JPG

attachicon.gifIMG_4964.JPG

Wired one temp. in the shed and watched what happened in the night time.

Thought it was brilliant (ho ho), so bought 10 more to install in the shed which will have 3 rooms.

I am pre-wiring the shed with my offsider SWMBO at All Costs or SWMBOaAC.

The lights are easy to work with, and can be cascaded up each other's rear, (reminds me of my Bali friends), which is preety neat I think.

attachicon.gifIMG_4965.JPG

attachicon.gifIMG_4966.JPG

attachicon.gifIMG_4967.JPG

Those fixtures look nice, with T5 bulbs. My Panasonic electronic fixtures with T8s didn't last for 7,000 hours, burnt out the electronic starters, had to replace the entire fixture including the bulb.

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Share on other sites

Although not completely related to my topic, this thread seems to be knowledgeable about fluros, electronic starters etc.

Please tell me if I'm in the wrong place. sad.png

I'm about to order my gear to wire up my shed.

I was thinking of going with fluros, but don't know what are the best types to buy, what type and what ballests etc.

I don't know how you work out how many lumens you need in an area, and what type of covering you use in a garage.

Here are some diagrams of my shed.

attachicon.gifHeightOfDoor.jpg

attachicon.gifงานป้าทรัพย์ กุฉิ กาฬสินธุ์ 1.jpg

attachicon.gifงานป้าทรัพย์ กุฉิ กาฬสินธุ์ 2.jpg

attachicon.gifงานป้าทรัพย์ กุฉิ กาฬสินธุ์ 3.jpg

All the lighting will be attached to the sloping rafters.

I was thinking of having 3 rows of 3 fluros, longwise, in the big area about 35 m2, and the other two rooms, three rows of 3 in each room.

Work bences will go along the wall opposite the door in the big area, and storage and hydrophonics stuff in the other areas.

Any clues?

Just in case anyone comes up with the same problem, I have an answer to my own question.

I bought one of these:

attachicon.gifIMG_4963.JPG

attachicon.gifIMG_4964.JPG

Wired one temp. in the shed and watched what happened in the night time.

Thought it was brilliant (ho ho), so bought 10 more to install in the shed which will have 3 rooms.

I am pre-wiring the shed with my offsider SWMBO at All Costs or SWMBOaAC.

The lights are easy to work with, and can be cascaded up each other's rear, (reminds me of my Bali friends), which is preety neat I think.

attachicon.gifIMG_4965.JPG

attachicon.gifIMG_4966.JPG

attachicon.gifIMG_4967.JPG

Those fixtures look nice, with T5 bulbs. My Panasonic electronic fixtures with T8s didn't last for 7,000 hours, burnt out the electronic starters, had to replace the entire fixture including the bulb.

Yeah, real easy to work with and can buy the replacement bulbs as well.

I first thought they were all plastic, but on closer inspection they have a metal base, which makes them a little bit stronger, but then I needed to run earth wires as well.

They come with an input wired plug and two power leads to connect to, and an output plug that when connected can cascade to the next one, like in my photo.

So the proof will be in how long they last, but they are very bright. smile.png

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